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Glad I could help – the knobs are used all over the industrial market and
you can even get helicoils if you want to renew the threads in the aluminum
fitting. Good luck!Bob
On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 8:42 AM, allantereshko <
> wrote:Bob, thanks for the sites, I’m sure I’ll find what I need. The
McMaster-Carr is incredible._______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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If you have a Westerbeke W60/W58 and a Velvet Drive transmission and the
Walter V-Drive you can use single grade 30wt oil (like Rotella) in all three
units. For the Velvet Drive, you must clean and flush out all the ATF
before switching to oil. I haven’t done that but may consider it in the
future.Bob
On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 7:54 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Interesting…my former Perkins 4-154 had a spec for 30 wt only! Written
in the
Perkins manual. I also used Rotella in one gallon containers. My new Yanmar
specifies 10-40.I know there is a scientific explanation…someone told me, but be damned
if I
can remember!Joe,
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Believe it or not, your local hardware store may have a selection of knobs
that will work. We have Karp’s True Value here and they have a big
selection of Bomar like knobs without the name on them.Also: Check out Grainger’s or McMaster-Carr. They also have a great
selection of knobs.Bob
On Sat, Nov 6, 2010 at 3:36 PM, allantereshko <
> wrote:I know it is a Bomar because of the knob. This riser body is 6.75″ and I
can’t find anything that small online. Tha smallest is 15″. I really need
the knob which turns without turning the stud but the knobs shown (male)
have a 5/16th stud while mine is 7/16th. Any help much appreciated_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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There is also a huge timber below the quadrant that provides lateral
support, in theory.I’m not being short. This is from my mobile.
On Nov 3, 2010 10:13 AM, “Chuck Ruble” <> wrote:Quent, there is lateral support. The stuffing box has a collar on the
bottom of the flange that extends down into the rudder tube about 3/8ths of
an inch.Chuck
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That’s very cool, Tor. I may have to move to the aft cabin so I can have a
workbench that doesn’t include my knees and a board. That’s an excellent
use of space!Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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For the speed, you don’t need a fairing block because its rotation doesn’t
depend on vertical placement. True for depth, though, as it has to point
down when the boat is at rest.Depth can be farther up the hull where thinner, perhaps 3/4″ thick, outboard
the mast about 18″Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 3:00 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Bou you need to account for the thickness of the hull + the fairing block.
Here’s an example from some friends of mine here in Seattle.
http://www.svbellastar.com/2010/08/always-hole.html-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 11:43 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Less than 2.5″. Probably around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2, depending on how low you
go.Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 2:28 PM, kalinowski <
wrote:
Does anyone know what the hull thickness is in the bow under the floor
access panel located in the forward cabin? I assume this is the placewhere
everyone mounts their transducers (at least that is where mine are).
I am going to install the Tack Tick wireless system on the boat and
their
standard transducers are for hulls up to 2.125″ thick. Or course, I
can’t
measure this till the boat’s on the hard and the old ones are out (I’m
not
that quick). I know Pearson built thick hulls and I’m trying to
preorder
stuff before the boat is hauled.
Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Atlanta/Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Less than 2.5″. Probably around 1-1/4 to 1-1/2, depending on how low you
go.Bob
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 2:28 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Does anyone know what the hull thickness is in the bow under the floor
access panel located in the forward cabin? I assume this is the place where
everyone mounts their transducers (at least that is where mine are).I am going to install the Tack Tick wireless system on the boat and their
standard transducers are for hulls up to 2.125″ thick. Or course, I can’t
measure this till the boat’s on the hard and the old ones are out (I’m not
that quick). I know Pearson built thick hulls and I’m trying to preorder
stuff before the boat is hauled.Mahalo
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Atlanta/Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I think he means he wants to sail one of our boats before he makes an offer.
Bob
On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 1:00 PM, Paul Audi <> wrote:
Quote:Offer is usually accepted first; then sea trial.________________________________
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Jeez, I thought I was the only one with that problem – I guess not. I
thought my windlass was just not the right height and not led correctly.I guess not.
There are tilting anchor rollers. That might be the best solution to the
problem.Bob
On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 8:47 PM, John Stevenson <>wrote:
“My only real problem is getting the Manson monster to come back up over
the
roller. Anyone solved that problem?”In a word – No. Since I have a manual windlass (keeps me young, but
crippled) I am at the bow when the anchor arrives at the roller, and I just
lift it up until the shank is on the roller and then pull back hard. It
helps that I left the bow fitting for the Passerelle in place. I can stand
with one foot on this fitting and lift the anchor straight up.On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 8:24 PM, quent <> wrote:
Hi Rich-
Of course, you’re right. A proper application of Ohm’s Law.
However, if the windlass battery is not highly charged, or the windlassis
heavily loaded, two things will happen. The voltage at the windlass
battery
will drop, and as the windlass slows and approaches stalling it’s
resistance
will drop. Current through the #10 wire will increase, and the wire or
combiner will fail before the thermal breaker, at least in theory.
Frankly, if I were going for the windlass battery arrangement, I likeTor’s
approach of using #6 wire.
I think there is a lot of merit in keeping things simple as others have
suggested. On our boat, we compromised by using a smaller and cheaper
windlass. It lifts 60# anchor on 5/16″ chain faster than a 64 year oldwith
a manual windlass and is happy with relatively light power cable.
My only real problem is getting the Manson monster to come back up overthe
roller. Anyone solved that problem?
Quent_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I also installed a battery monitor as part of my charger/inverter upgrade –
still with a maximum of 600 odd amp hours available in a desperate situation
on my house bank (really 300-400 in normal circumstances) I don’t really see
a need for a separate battery and all the extra stuff for the windlass which
runs, on average, less than two minutes per day. It seems a little much and
takes away much needed storage space.Also, with two rodes and anchors in the bow (45 lb cqr, 70 lb bruce, 300
feet of chain and a 50′ chain and rope rode) adding another 80 lbs up there
for so little usage seems antithetical.But I’ve been wrong before. The best thing is to do what makes you
comfortable. I’m about simple and graceful degradation.Bob
On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 1:01 PM, Linus Martinez <>wrote:
Quote:BobI added a battery monitor when I repowered. I used the original volt meter
on the panel for my engine and windlass batteries. I try to make it a habit
of checking their voltage when the system is charging. Not the best test of
battery health yet it lets me know that they are being charged.Linus
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I’ve been reading this thread with considerable interest. Generally
speaking, we have some significant house banks – Mine is three 4D AGM
batteries and my engine bank is two group 31’s.I’m all for the simpler the better. House bank through breaker to windlass
with tinned wires. Once you start adding batteries, charging circuits,
relays, switches and what-all, you’re complicating a simple system.If you have someone with a Port Supply card, you can get the wire at West at
a fraction of the price you’d pay for it at list.Also, there’s a reason for using tinned wire. Welding cable is fine inside
a boat where there’s no exposure to salt water, but in an anchor or chain
locker that’s not the case, especially if you have an installation not like
Tor’s where the motor and cables are actually in the upper locker.
Corrosion will attack the connections even if you are very good about
keeping them covered with grease or whatever. Tor’s is a very, very good
one – protecting everything in an almost watertight compartment. We’re not
all looking forward to that kind of a project though…I think using welding cable is being penny wise and pound foolish.
Think of how many points of failure you create and you’ll see what I mean.
I’ve seen combiners and echo chargers fail (and they don’t have an alarm –
your only message will be dead batteries).Design systems for graceful degradation.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I wish. Send my regards to everyone – also, everyone who plans to to long
range cruising should see the talk by Dr. (Captain) Laura Sudarsky – I don’t
know when or what day, but it’s going to be worth it. I’ve sailed with a
lot of people and she is one of the very, very few I’d trust my life to.Also, we’ve been friends and sailing friends for 30 years.
Bob
On Thu, Oct 7, 2010 at 8:18 AM, pat noordsij wrote:
Pussers around 5pm?
– pat
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It’s hard to say with this recording. It sounds really bad, but I can’t
compare it to mine because I didn’t record it near the v-drive.Bob
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 6:06 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Don’t know if I am making too much of this, But here is a recording of
the sound. The old unit (before rebuild) didn’t sound anything like
this. Is this really what it sounds like after a 1400 $ rebuild
You
can hear when the engine is in Neutral, then when in gear, and then when
I raise the idle to about 1000RPM and back down to idle before turning
the engine off.Alan
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The V-Drive manual states that low rpm will cause gear lash that is NOT
harmful to the drive. It comes from the fact that low rpms on the diesel
are not as smooth as you think. Well, maybe on a 6 or 8 cylinder, but not a
4. So what happens is that the power pulses – it doesn’t hurt anything but
it makes the gears click as they are accelerated and slowed. Obviously, as
the power smooths out at higher rpm, that lashing stops.So, as Walter says, no worries, dudes and dudettes!
Bob
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 7:22 PM, John Stevenson <>wrote:
Alan,
I went through this issue with the Yanmar repower in 2008 and the RV-26
install this year. My Westerbecke 60 idled at around 1100 RPM. The Yanmar
idles at 800 RPM. I got the same low RPM rumble with the Yanmar and the
old
RV-20. The yard checked with Yanmar and Walters. Walters said it was no
problem. When I had the RV-26 installed the rumble was even louder. Again
we went back to Walters and they said it is normal at low RPM and does not
cause a problem for the V-Drive. I asked about increasing the idle to 1100
as on the W60, but was told the Velvet Drive needs the lower idle. The old
Paragon was happy with the W60 idle at 1100.
I will keep questioning this situation and why I can’t get the idle up
enough to eliminate the rumble, but for now I will live with it and just
advance the throttle after shifting into gear.On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 6:08 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:My v-drive also runs more quietly at higher RPMs. This might be a
question
better asked of Walter though.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 2:58 PM, Alan <> wrote:
I had the engine out to repair the bent strut. While is was out I
replaced
the oil pan gaskets and the vibration damper on the flywheel. One of
the
springs was so rusted it was lying in the bottom of the bell housing.
That
would explain the “clunking” sound at low RPM.
I had the V Drive rebuilt by Walters in the mean time. The boat is backin
the water and everything appears to be align according to specs. When
in
gear at 800 RPM (forward or reverse) the V Drive sounds like a machine
gun……(the Cluncking sound is gone) After about 1000 RPM the soundgoes
away and is very quiet.
Question: I am used to the clunking and whir of a worn unit…. is this
what a new or rebuilt unit sounds like…..?
ALAN_______________________________________________
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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s/v Pelican
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I would believe that if it was wired to the inverter, or if there were some
circuitry associated that knew there was AC but the voltage was below a
certain point (not difficult, but should be obvious). Also, the light could
be connected to the inverter itself or to the batteries to indicate low
charge.Or, it could be PFM. A light that doesn’t do anything but sometimes appears
to be indicating something. I love stuff like that…Bob
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 11:05 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:I can not tell if my wiring is the same right now..the boat is in Trinidad.
But
I do have another light on the Heart which tells me I have shore power on,
so
perhaps you are right. Though my gut says the light is orange to show the
current is weak.________________________________
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