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As you may or may not have heard, I’ve used the fact that the Velvet Drive
rotates to generate power with my fixed prop.For a folding prop to fold or feather or whatever something has to stop or
slow the shaft so that the water resistance can do the job of folding or
feathering.Can I have your old fixed prop?
Bob
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 7:04 PM, Jubilee <> wrote:
What are the general thoughts on the need of keeping the shaft brake on the
velvet drive transmission with a folding prop?_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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You must have much more water aboard than I. 🙂
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:I am impressed by this conversation, as I’m sure we all are. Let it never
be
said that Pearson 424 owners overlook even the least… glamorous details
of
yacht ownership. Since we’re actually discussing this, consider an entirely
different approach to the ‘what to do with the toilet paper’ dilemma, i.e.,
don’t use it. Save a few trees, spare the environment and live more
hygienically. I believe the French call it la douche, and it has been in
use
a lot longer than Charmin.Vive la difference!
🙂
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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That’s an interesting point, John. In 30+ years I’ve dealt with far more
toilet and septic system problems on land than with boats. I’ve never had a
clog on my boats and only once on another boat – not caused by paper but by
adding a little something else to the bowl, I forget what, but it wasn’t
already eaten. That and having the check valve break.I didn’t know that Spain and Portugal were essentially without toilet
paper. I wonder if Greece and Ireland are similarly equipped and that’s why
their economies are faltering?There could be a link.
Anyway, 4 times in 50 years is a damn good average, I’d say, no matter how
awful it was to repair.Bob
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 2:35 PM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:
Quote:And of course for us Americans with our well trained digestive systems,
some countries have foods and beverages which are not well received by our
bodies, which then proceeds to try to expel what we have consumed..in its’
entirety, and, as quickly as possible.
The water soluble paper is a problem i these situations..so one needs a
strong paper to get the job done.________________________________
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That sounds like an import-export opportunity!
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 11:47 AM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:
Quote:Yes, Rich, I have had good results with that, but I can’t find it in the
Islands.________________________________
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Oh, you mean the plastic or fiberglass recess thing the engine panel is
mounted to? You may have to make one custom. You can do it in fiberglass
fairly easily by making a mold and stuff. Making the mold: 1 day. Forming
the glass: 1 day. If you haven’t used a release and gel coat on the mold,
gel coating, 1 day. Finishing and installing: 1 day. Actually, it will
only take a fraction of the day for the work, the rest of the time is
waiting.Otherwise, I have no idea.
Bob
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:59 AM, Pete Dubler <>wrote:
Anyone have an idea on where to find an extra one of those recessed panels
(boxes) that holds the start and glow buttons?(SSi sells a huge one, I just want one of the small ones)
Thanks,
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Not true, Oh! Paper Saver. We have become accustomed to soft tissue. Most
of the world uses a paper that is more akin to crepe paper than toilet
paper. With the single ply you typically don’t use more. You’d think you
would, but for the few seconds it’s actually in use the difference in
tensile and water strength doesn’t make a difference.However, like discussions of anchors, electronics, and other things fraught
with opinions, toilet paper and it’s use and disposal seems to have nearly
religious adherents.I’ll never convince you the Scott stuff will work and go through the head
with ease and you’ll never convince me to put the paper in a pail. Really,
my reaction to that is, “Ewww!” But to paraphrase, I will defend to the
death your right to do what you will with your toilet paper.🙂
Bob
On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 9:43 AM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:
Quote:With single ply you end up using more singles, than with double ply…paper
is paper..you risk a clog somewhere, and that risk is not worth taking, no
matter how small, given the awful job to declog. I’ll continue to bag my
paper and toss it with the rest of my garbage.________________________________
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Wow, you guys must use an awful lot of toilet paper. I use Scott TP, the
1000 sheet rolls. Not soft and cuddly like Charmin, but when it touches
water it dissolves. You can use the normal amount and have no trouble
getting it through the head.I’ve had company on board for days at a time and never had a problem with
either the holding tank or head.Not that it’s not a good idea to stow the used TP separately, but I’ve never
found the need.To each their own, I guess.
As an aside, when I’m using the holding tank I use the shower for the
water. I try to keep salt water out of the holding tank. It’s better for
keeping the smell down.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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There’s a remote area of Connecticut? Where would that be?
Also: http://groban.com/Pumps_Water_Jabsco_Pump_1673-001.html will give you
a pump that with the addition to a regular V-belt pulley and a new hole in
the mounting plate will give you a $100 pump replacement. I have two.Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 4:35 PM, norris larson <>wrote:
On the plain steel retaining rings:
I was forced to use the plain steel rings or sit around for several days in
a rather remote spot in Connecticut. I put them in and placed an order for
the proper ones at a yard further up the Sound. A week later when I went to
change them, the plain steel rings disintegrated into some tiny pieces. My
first thought was could i fish them out without disassembling the whole
pump? Then I thought, in a few days or less the pieces will be rust dust and
will pass through easily. Luckily I did not try to run the East River before
I put the proper reings in.Norris
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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You can use a flush of muriatic acid. It’s available from Lowes or Home
Depot. Mix it to half strength, pump through head to fill line. Let sit
for half and hour. Flush with fresh water. If the hose is still good,
you’ll be fine for another year. If it isn’t, it won’t be any better, but
it won’t be worse either.Or you can use full strength vinegar. Fill line, let soak for a day,
flush. Repeat.Finally, throw some vegetable oil down the thing, and pump through slowly.
You should be good to go…
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 3:00 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Here’s another vote for the PH-II. It works great for us and rebuild kits
are even easy to get here in HI. I’m just wrestling with the accretion
build up in the line from the head to the tank as the PO never bothered to
treat it. I’ll be back on board in two weeks and am certainly “looking
forward” to replacing that hose.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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As mentioned, Torrensen Marine had it for even less than Go2Marine.
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 2:20 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:Go2 Marine has the kit for less money but not for 4 weeks can they ship. I
needed mine rebuilt to take back with me to the Bahamas in 2 weeks.
alan— On Tue, 5/11/10, Alan <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Hi All,
Believe it or not, Torrensen Marine had the rebuild kit for the least cost –
$114. So I bought it.Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 2:16 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:You should replace the spring loaded seal while your in there, in which
case you will need the gasket for it too. A bearing store may not carry the
graphite bearing on the cover end.
alan— On Tue, 5/11/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Thanks Guys,
I’ll assume I’m wrong and you’re right. I’ll look at the kit from
PumpAgents and from Go2marine.All the best,
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 12:38 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:Mine is the R30G. I just bought a major rebuild kit for it from
PumpAgents.com. the cost of the kit was 124.00 and 64.00 a new shaft. This
seemed to the cheapest rice I could find.
alan— On Tue, 5/11/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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Hi Lee,
I agree with Jack. The Raritan PH II works and works and works. Rebuilding
is easy, the kit is about $60, and I’m very happy with it.I’ve had the PH II on my last three boats including this one. I actually
replaced the Jabsco one on my Ranger with the Raritan but at that time, they
were only $150 or so.Apparently, the price of pooping has become astronomical. They run much,
much more now. I suspect the theory is that you’re going to poo – there’s
nothing you can do about it. So we (Raritan) can charge what we want!
Muahhahahahahaha!Still, it’s a good head and it can be electrified.
Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Jack P Clarke <>wrote:
Hi Lee,
We have a Raritan PH II that works very well for us and we have been living
aboard for four years with no problems (knock on wood). It came with the
boat and I put a kit in it right away.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:
I need a new head. The cheap Jabsco that was on the boat just isn’t
acceptable. Any recommendations?Lee
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Hi Norris,
The shaft, especially with a dripless seal, can move quite a bit. The
V-drive coupling is what keeps it in line with the cutlass bearing.
Remember, once you disconnect one end of a shaft it will move – I would
actually tie it up so that it doesn’t put undue stress on the cutlass
bearing and strut. It’s heavy and provides quite a bit of leverage on the
strut it wasn’t designed to take.Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:26 AM, norris larson <>wrote:
Seeking advice,
I pulled my V-drive and took it to Jersey City for a rebuild. The lower
seal (to the prop shaft) was passing oil even when not running. After
removing the drive, I noticed the prop shaft moved up and down about a
quarter of an inch and tiny bit side-to-side. Is this normal or does the
bearing surface through the hull need some repair?The cutllass bearing was replaced two years ago and I was not paying
attention to play in the shaft at the time. Easy Reach, hull #206, is also
equipped with a PYI dripless box.Thanks,
Norris Larson
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Thanks, Norris,
I have a pump with 3/4″ threads, or the R50G, I guess. I also have access
to a machine shop. My pulley isn’t pressed on – it has a key and setscrew.Theoretically, those snap rings won’t be exposed to seawater.
Ahhahahahahaha!Bob
On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 11:16 AM, norris larson <>wrote:
Quote:Robert,My Westerbeke from 1990, a repowering in hull #206, shows their P/N as
24102 and numerous other numbers for internal parts. I have a notation in my
parts manual that shows the Sherwood number as SHE R30G-1. Removing the
shaft from the drive pulley, incidently, not part of the pump, may require a
press. After technician labor charges to remove it and the cost of repair
parts, I would have been better off just buying a new pump and pulley,which
I Iended up doing a year later. And the repair kit did not include sea water
resistant retaining rings and the yard only had plain steel rings in stock.
In short, the repair and rebuild was almost as costly as a new pump.Norris Larson
10, Robert Fine <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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