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You can make them yourself with a bit of bar stock 3/4″ wide and 3/16″ thick
with a drill and tap. I think the screws are 1/4″ – 20. Like Tor said, it
should only take a day to do. I carry all the tools so for me it would take
less. All the backing plate does is clamp the track to the internal track.I hope that helps.
Bob
On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 8:38 AM, Eric Lorentzon <> wrote:
I need to replace the t-rack on the mizzen mast that my boom rides on.
Anyone know who makes the inset that slides up the mast for mounting /
supporting the t-track?Mast are out now and splash is this friday!!!running
out of time and boat units –
Eric NavasanaKittery Maine_______________________________________________
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Well, I’ve been dealing with solvents all my life and have never had any
issue like that – I don’t know if it’s just differences between people (some
people have greater sensitivites to hydrocarbons then others). I’ve used
acetone, trichloroethylene (I think) and others but never MEK. On the other
hand, at the time I was using ethanol regularly in vast quantities that
probably kept my system flushed. At least that’s my theory…Bob
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HI Rich,
If you use any epoxy or polyester to make repairs to the bottom then you
need to dewax it – (remove the blush). Otherwise, Jack is correct – sanding
and a good washdown will do the job.Bob
On Mon, May 10, 2010 at 6:58 AM, Jack P Clarke wrote:
Hi Guys,
Here’s my two cents worth. When I did the bottom of Xanadu, right after I
had her trucked up to Toronto, the yard foreman at a company called Bristol
Marine where I was doing the work said not to use any chemicals after the
bottom has been sanded off. Just use plain fresh hose water and a scrub
brush. No matter what cleaner or solvent you may use, there will always be
some trace of it left behind that will effect the bonding to the hull.
Made
sense to me, so that’s the way I proceeded before applying the
Inter-protect.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Sun, May 9, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Wax, what wax? There can’t possibly be wax on the bottom of the boat
after
32 years. Maybe if it were new… Am I missing something here?
I hate working with Acetone. I think it pretty toxic. If I can avoid
the
Quote:stuff I’ll feel more secure.What do you think guys, can I skip the acetone wipe-down?
Rich
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Hi Joe,
I agree MEK is a better solvent. But MEK is also extremely toxic and is
linked to all sorts of unpleasant cancers (as opposed to the fun ones). If
you use MEK, make sure you’re using chemical resistant gloves and real
breathing protection that include VOC filters (activated charcoal). MEK is
nothing to fool with. It is readily absorbed through the skin.The fast evaporation for me is a good thing as the surface is ready to work
sooner. Also, rather than having two solvents (one for thinning epoxy and
MEK), I just use the one.Everyone makes their own decisions about what to use; both solvents will do
the job. I’ve found that using mineral spirits still requires a quick wipe
with acetone afterwards.Bob
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As it turns out, I’m so tickled with my suggestion of the UHDPE that I’m
going to move my life raft from where it is (in the way) to where you put it
(not so much in the way) and then I may be able to carry my dinghy inflated
on deck. Or not, but I’ll be able to see where I’m going, sort of.While I’m about it, I’ll replace my grab rails with the same material
(simple to make, believe it or not).That should take two days. Ahahahaha!
Bob
On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 9:55 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,No doubt many are faster than I at completing boat projects. For me, just
deciding exactly where and how to mount the raft took a lot of looking, on
and off for a week or two, measuring and head-scratching and finally
deciding. Then there was more measuring, marking and over-drilling the
holes
through the deck, to be filled with epoxy, allowed to set up and re-drilled
to size. SOP. In between, I was popping the wood plugs and removing the
wood
trim belowdecks, engaging in major battle with one or two reluctant screws
that seemed to feel 30 years in place gave them some kind of seniority
rights. All that and still nothing was mounted. Once the bolts are through,
if you’re working alone you then have to clamp each nut belowdecks with a
wrench or vice-grips and clamber topside to tighten each bolt individually
–
up & down like that a dozen times, a regular StairMaster workout, then
discovering that a few places where the bolts poke through inside are too
tight to get the washers & nuts on as you were planning, so things have to
be notched and otherwise modified, etc, etc. And STILL it’s not finished.
Less than a day? Not on this boat.😉
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Sorry, I wasn’t giving complete step by step instructions. I should have
been clearer. You are absolutely correct – Acetone is cheap and wipe downs
are quick. Use more rather than less.Bob
On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 9:53 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob,
All very good advice. I would add to do a wipe down first so you don’t
sand any wax into the fiberglass. Always wipe down before sanding.Pete
On 5/9/2010 7:30 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Rich,
Your plan is perfect – for the cracks in the gel coat below the water
line,
use an old style can opener (beer can opener) and trace all the cracks.
Make
sure you get to the bottom of the crack or to the underlying fiberglass.
Don’t worry about going through the gel coat. Make sure they are clean
and
dry.I usually then make a paste of epoxy and colloid powder (West 404) and use
it like Bondo. Fill the cracks that you’ve opened up and let set – after
it’s totally hard, sand and wipe really well with acetone. You have to
get
the wax off or the barrier coat won’t stick. Smoothness isn’t all that
important as the barrier coat does a pretty good job filling small
scratches.Then do the barrier coat as you’ve described. You’ll have a perfect
bottom.Bob
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Hi Rich,
Your plan is perfect – for the cracks in the gel coat below the water line,
use an old style can opener (beer can opener) and trace all the cracks. Make
sure you get to the bottom of the crack or to the underlying fiberglass.
Don’t worry about going through the gel coat. Make sure they are clean and
dry.I usually then make a paste of epoxy and colloid powder (West 404) and use
it like Bondo. Fill the cracks that you’ve opened up and let set – after
it’s totally hard, sand and wipe really well with acetone. You have to get
the wax off or the barrier coat won’t stick. Smoothness isn’t all that
important as the barrier coat does a pretty good job filling small
scratches.Then do the barrier coat as you’ve described. You’ll have a perfect
bottom.Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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You could also make a rack out of something that’s not wood but is stable
like UHPE (ultra high density polyethlyene) about 1-1/2″ thick. It’s tough,
relatively light, fairly inexpensive, and easy to machine.Add two pad eyes so that you can attach the strap and hydrostatic release
and for less than $100 in materials you’re done – all you really need is
something to match the shape of the life raft canister to the deck.It’s less than a one day job.
Bob
On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 8:56 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Adam,Before you spring for a custom-made cradle, you might call a few life raft
repacking facilities. The manufacturer of your raft will probably have a
list of authorized re-certification shops on their web site. Those shops
often have used bits & pieces around. One of those might have a second-hand
cradle or know where you might find one. I’d also call some used boat gear
places like Sailorman in Fort Lauderdale and Sailor’s Exchange in St.
Augustine. For that matter, it wouldn’t hurt to call Zodiac to ask if
they’ve got something used and suitable laying around.Good luck,
Tor
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http://www.silverheels.us
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That’s a good place for it, too. Mine’s forward center under the boom and I
was hoping it would allow me to carry the inflatable dinghy fully inflated
in the space after (I moved the main sheet forward to the mast and back from
there). But the dinghy (10.5′) is too long. No joy.The discussion is whether the raft can be worked around when it’s not needed
yet released when it is without fouling in something when it is.But either way, you need to through-bolt it.
Bob
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With all the talk about failing cooling water pumps, I wonder if you’d part
with the water pump (if it’s the fresh water pump) for $125? Unless, of
course, it’s brand spanking new. Then I’d up the price.Bob
On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 9:06 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
My Beta Marine engine arrives on Friday and I still have a few W58 parts
available:– coolant water pump (complete assembly)
– Injection pumpTime to get this at a good price… Send your serious offers to
Pete
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Hi Adam,
Most container rafts come with a cradle – but that doesn’t preclude making
one on your own. Easiest would just be a simple wood cradle that matches
the cabin curve and the shape of the container. There has to be a fitting
for the strap across the top and I highly recommend a hydrostatic release.Tor placed his life raft on the starboard side forward of the traveler and
aft of the forward companionway hatch. I really like that placement.
Mine’s just aft of the hatch aft of the mast and sticks way up in the air.
It makes looking forward from the wheel somewhat problematic.Finally, you will, or should through bolt the cradle. The cabin roof isn’t
all that strong for screwing. If you put it forward of the traveler, you’ll
need to drop the shower roof and the head roof to get to the holes. No big
deal if you label the trim as you take it off.As far as the oil goes, I’m sorry you’re going to have to suffer through
that. It’s a terrible thing.(I was going to make a joke, like, hey, oil keeps the waves down, but
thought better of it)Bob
On Mon, May 3, 2010 at 8:05 PM, Adam <> wrote:
I bought a 8 person zodiac offshore life raft on sale last december.
When I ordered the overpriced cradle, it didn’t include all the parts
listed in the ad and am sending it back.My question is how everyone else mounts their life raft? Do you have
mounts custom made, or buy a stock cradle. How did you drill through the
deck and deal with the interior liner. What about theft, and how do you
lock it down?Any advice would be appreciated.
Can’t sail right now with oil slick heading our way.
Thanks Adam
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Thank you both and all!
I won’t be leaving the US until the cruising kitty is refilled – may take a
couple of years.Bob
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Hi Rich,
I realize that and have decided to change to foil connections to the
groundplate. I suppose at some point I’ll have to talk on the thing.Thanks,
Bob
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Breakers work by the current passing from hot to either neutral or ground –
it’s simply the amount of current passing through the breaker. Where the
circuit goes, it doesn’t care as long as current is passing through the
breaker itself.Don’t confuse AC neutral with ground or the bonding grounds from the DC and
AC grounds. In theory, they all have the same potential but in practice may
not.The neutral in AC varies in voltage just like the hot wire does. The
bonding ground in the boat makes sure that all the conductive materials like
through hulls, rigging, keel, strut, and engine don’t create essentially a
battery which will galvanically corrode everything.DC grounds are just the return to the battery from a DC load.
Since the engine provides a DC ground it is connected to the bonding system
and in theory that makes them the same, but the bonding system could be
isolated from the engine and still do its job. Some boats are set up that
way.Another purpose to the bonding system, in theory, is to provide lightning
protection. On the other hand, lightning doesn’t strike from above – it
connects to a ground leader so that the initial cause of a lightning strike
is current coming up from ground to meet the first downstrike allowing the
full strike to occur (lightning isn’t just one strike – there are a bunch of
them).From that, it follows that if your masthead is grounded it makes it a much
more favorable target for lightning because it provides the easiest paths
for the circuit. My theory is that not bonding everything to everything
makes you a much smaller ‘target’ for lightning because you’re not providing
a good ground to air path. The only downside to that is that you need to
keep track of your through hulls for corrosion.If you sail in fresh water, that’s not an issue as fresh water has a very
high resistivity to current flow and therefore galvanic corrosion. This
whole subject really makes a great case for Marelon through hulls and valves
as they are not subject to any kind of galvanic corrosion. Or any corrosion
at all.But I’ve seen grounded boats and non-grounded boats both get hit by
lightning so it’s up to you what you do. Generally, the grounded boats have
more and more serious damage, although I can’t say why. Lightning’s a funny
thing.I’ve typically kept my boats unbonded and haven’t suffered any unusual
corrosion.Bob
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The subfloor and beams are not marine grade. The beams are simple 2×3
douglas fir which is resistant to rot (clearly not if it’s submerged). The
subfloor is standard 3/4″ plywood, and for the same reason.Unless you plan to keep your bilge wet all the time up to the top of the
keel, I’d say, the stuff lasted 32+ years. Why mess with success.Another way to tell is that standard and marine grades of plywood are
different thicknesses – marine is about 1/64th inch thinner. Maybe a 32nd.
I forget which. If I were to recommend plywood replacement, I’d suggest
exterior grade. It’s only marginally more expensive than interior grade.At any rate, that’s what mine is, and it’s #8. I seriously doubt they
changed materials in later models, but who knows?I hope that helps and saves you a bit of money.
Bob
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