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Hi John,
You absolutely must stop by Stamford CT or surrounds on your way down so I
can meet you and become personal friends with yet another of this fabulous
group.If any of my meager knowledge can help you, I’d be happy to share it, and a
few drinks if you’re up to it.All the 424 owners I’ve met, to a man and woman, has been absolutely the
best!Great luck! Following winds and rising tides!
By the way, if you don’t know it yet, the 424 is a tremendous downwind
boat. Anything from about 10-15 degrees from dead downwind and they’ll
behave like ladies even in 30 knots!I had no idea until three days ago, but that’s a whole ‘nother story…
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hence things like traveling wave guides and light weight high-tension
wires. I call it FM – F’k’n Magic.On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 4:59 PM, Alan <> wrote:
Quote:That’s is exactly what I wrote about the other day. It’s called the SKIN
effect. No amount of circular mils (wire dia) can make up for the fact that
RF at these frequencies travels on the surface of the metal.
alan— On Thu, 4/29/10, Silver Heels <> wrote:
<.. snip>
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I seem to remember, Tor, reading his exposition on the whole thing that a
short wire is ok – mine is less than three feet. But I do have foil and
three inch wide braided wire which is also supposed to be ok.Since I don’t use a SWR meter, I can’t tell how good my signal is, but then,
I’m usually just listening anyway.I suppose I’ll fix it when I get back at some point. For me, the radio is
less about broadcast just now then receiving information either verbally or
digitally.That will change, I’m sure, for the next cruise which I don’t expect to
return to the U.S. from.Bob
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 4:46 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,Actually, Gordon West writes that wire, even very thick wire, is not
desirable for counterpoise runs and connections. He wrote, “Round wires
create inductive reactance at radio frequencies, and are not effective as a
good grounding conveyance. Use 2 or 3 inch wide, 3 mil copper foil
(available at most marine electronic stores) to achieve a good seawater
ground.” He even advises, “Do not reduce the size of the foil as you
approach the tuner or the radio (with your copper foil strap). Also, do not
convert the foil to wire as you approach the tuner or the radio. Fold the
foil back on itself and drill a hole for the mounting stud.”He apparently feels so strongly about this that he repeats it in the same
chapter: “Again, I would like to mention that running wire – even battery
cable – is not effective as an RF ground (counterpoise) at radio
frequencies. Although, wire looks like a good DC ground, it looks invisible
at most radio frequencies. Use foil, and only foil. Even aluminum foil will
work in a pinch. You can even use aluminum air conditioning foil with
sticky
on the back as counterpoise. Wires won’t work so forget about using them.”Than again, what you have works so maybe Mr. West is mistaken.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
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Hey,
Guess what?
Not all keels are lead. Mine has to be ferrous because it causes my
fluxgate compass to go nuts. Lead won’t do that.Gordon West also indicates that a modern rig with a modern tuner needs
little more than a wire to a through hull or a dynaplate to provide the
appropriate counterpoise.Since I’m not a HAM yet, all I can say is that on the SSB channels, it works
fine.Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Overheating like this sounds like the fresh water pump as you have
surmised. Although, it could also be a stuck closed thermostat which will
prevent flow. I assume you have good flow out the exhaust?I’m not sure if the W58’s pump can be rebuilt. You may have to bite the
bullet on that one. Disconnecting the water heater circulation hoses will
serve to splatter antifreeze all over the place to see if it’s working.
Other than that, I don’t know if there are any other fresh water coolant
hosing. All my rubber hosing is raw water.Usually, when a fresh water pump goes, though, it weeps through the little
hole, but not always. If you remove the pump, you will certainly see if it’s
bad enough to stop pumping. They work right up until they don’t.In my experience, I’ve had two fresh water pumps fail, so for all you
doubters (“What? I’ve never heard of that!”), they do. Two different boats,
two different engines.Good luck James!
Bob
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 12:51 AM, james bartch <
wrote:
Aloha to All
Thank you for the advice, i am getting closer to the problem. it has to
be on the coolant or fresh water side. I am suspecting that the fresh water
pump may be bad but… is there a good check to make sure. i am not sure
which hose to pull to make sure the pump is actually pumping coolant thru
the system.symptom: after i fill the engine with coolant and run it for a while, put
it under a load, cap off and shut it down it spits out coolant, does not
appear to be cycling coolant thru the system or coolant appears to be backed
up and then overflows after the engine heats up.i am thinking that it may be the pump, i see on line that these fresh water
pumps can be re built, is that the best way to go?I have not pulled the pump or checked the hoses that go to and from the
pump yet, just wanted to see if a hose can be removed to check flow on the
outlet side of the pump, but not sure.thank you in advance for the help, you guys are great!
S/V Island Muse #217
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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You can do the same with VDO for much less money. There is another gauge
manufacturer whose name I can’t remember. But they’re all good. Westerbeke
uses a common manufacturer – then they put their name on it, or not.They’re nothing special.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 7:17 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
If gage and sender are mated electrically, then I will buy Westerbeke for
both. ThanksDan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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On the W58 there are two temp and two oil switches – the switches are for
the alarms, low oil press and high temp. The gauge sending unit needs to be
matched to the gauge so expect to spend about 100 bucks to replace both from
a NAPA or someplace like that. They’ll have replacement senders. I used a
VDO guage and sender to replace my oil switch and sender.Just take the old ones in and let them look… You could also spend three
times the amount and get westerbeke parts…Bob
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 11:38 AM, kalinowski <>wrote:
I’ve checked the temp gage on my W58 with an infrared unit and found it to
be off by 15 degrees. I want to replace both the gage and sensing unit.
After checking the online sources, I am confused (not hard). Is what I
want a temp SENDER or a temp SWITCH?I am making the assumption that the temp SWITCH is part of a system that
includes an audible buzzer that sounds when the thing is close to
overheating. I also assume that the temp SENDER just gives a readout on the
temp gage without a buzzer. My boat does not presently have a temp buzzer
alarm.What would be the correct selection?
Dan Kalinowskli
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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For metal ports, here’s what I used and how I did it:
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2009/08/finishing-projects-holding-tank.html
Plates from Seabuilt.
Also:
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com/2007/08/beautiful-solution.html which
shows how you could construct your own (I did a 2.5″ one for the mizzen mast
to access the wire runs…).If you have any facility at all with metal, you can make your own from 1/8″
stainless and rubber gasket material. Save you a ton of money.Bob
On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 8:20 PM, Philippe Fontaine wrote:
Quote:Thanks to the previous owner my tanks have three ports. I am able to
sponge all of the water and silt out in the fall and I can wipe down all
surfaces with bleach water at the beginning of each season. However, the
ports are plastic and some of them tend to leak when the tanks are
overfilled (which happens most of the time). You may want to consider metal
ports if you add more.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora
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Pompanette is also Bomar. They make the aluminum ones for $400 or so. 8 x
22 which is the ones I used.Bob
On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 9:17 AM, dwbuettell <> wrote:
My ports are all aluminum and open they are about 7.5″ by 20″.
I have since found that Hood Yacht systems makes an almost perfect fit for
about 650.00 net each stainless steel with screenHere is email for geting quotes.
http://www.pompanette.com website.
Like to find somethin a little less expensive
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Very interesting – I read about it. What does it cost?
Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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They are structural in the sense that they help stiffen the plywood that
sheathes the inside of the cabin. They also provide a handhold and a place
to put business cards, snack bars, and all sorts of little items.Other than that, they are easily removable (except for those bungs).
I have hull # 8, and I have backing trim as well for the plywood. I suspect
that’s removed after removing the drip rail.Bob
On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 11:03 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I’m referring to the ones inside the cabin. Huh, they’d come out that easy?
I figured they were structural.-p
On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 4:56 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Patrick,
Are you talking about the inside or outside of the cabin? If the ones
under
the portlights inside, they come out with the removal of those bungs and
screws.Remember, in a production boat, easier is better – they’re not going to
do
really fancy things on trim when simple screws will do.
Have fun!
Bob
On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 12:14 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone done anything so major as pull down the drip rails and
completely
replace the cabin top wood? We’ve had a setback with our choice of
materials
and I might have to pull the wood off the cabintop completely. Notexcited
about the idea of that.
But back to those drip rails. I can see a set of bungs and thus screws
along
the finished face facing the salon. Are they also bolted in on the forand
aft bulkheads I dont’ see any evidence of this. I’m going to have a
boat
builder look at this before I do anything drastic, but I was just
curious
if
anyone has had to do anything so extreme.Breathing deeply, in and out…
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Patrick,
Are you talking about the inside or outside of the cabin? If the ones under
the portlights inside, they come out with the removal of those bungs and
screws.Remember, in a production boat, easier is better – they’re not going to do
really fancy things on trim when simple screws will do.Have fun!
Bob
On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 12:14 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Has anyone done anything so major as pull down the drip rails and
completely
replace the cabin top wood? We’ve had a setback with our choice of
materials
and I might have to pull the wood off the cabintop completely. Not excited
about the idea of that.But back to those drip rails. I can see a set of bungs and thus screws
along
the finished face facing the salon. Are they also bolted in on the for and
aft bulkheads I dont’ see any evidence of this. I’m going to have a boat
builder look at this before I do anything drastic, but I was just curious
if
anyone has had to do anything so extreme.Breathing deeply, in and out…
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi John,
Those spots can use the Dr LED bulbs – I use them in mine – all you have to
do is shave a bit off the circumference of the bulb and it fits in. The
tough part is having enough friction with your fingertips to allow you to
turn the bulb.Bob
On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 8:49 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
These are small spot lights that were original equipment over the head of
the aft bunk and on each side of the berth in the forward cabin. They have
a bayonet base, but the throat of the bulb is much longer than a standard
bayonet bulb of the same base diameter. So those DrLED bulbs will not fit
the fixture. I’ve looked for years for a LED replacement with no success,
so I’ll be really interested if someone has found one.
These are difficult to find bulbs even in the incandescent form, although
WM
does stock them (usually requires an order against the warehouse).
If you want to go LED, I think the only option is to replace the fixture
with one designed for LED or designed for one of the standard bulb
configuration for which there is a readily available LED (e.g., halogen
G4). I did replace the fixtures in the forward cabin with ones designed
for
LED, but they give very poor light. It’s a difficult location to put an
effective reading light, which is what I assume the spot light was intended
for. So I’m still looking for a LED-ready fixture that will work in that
location.On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 2:02 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:That is a bayonette type bulb. Can you send a pic of the fixture as well.
-p
On Tue, Mar 30, 2010 at 3:50 PM, Indulgence
wrote:
Hello,
I’ve been having some issues post to the list:
I have put up a picture of the bulb I am trying to replace….is this
the
same bulb that you found a replacement for…look at that light bulb
here:
I have not been able to find an LED with similar dimensions.
Suggestions?
John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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s/v Pelican
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I’m looking at that now – it looks as if you could use one piece for the
whole ‘L’ shape if milled properly…Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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I know that my teak has leaks. It sure has gouges. And I’m sure I need to
re-bed everything on the caprails. So, I thought to myself, “Why not
replace it?” It can’t be that hard – but what with? There’s UHMW plastic or
HDPE (which will change colors in the sun to a lovely tan) or ipe (E-pay) a
very hard tropical, theoretically sustainable, wood that weathers to a light
gray and is almost impossible to damage. It is also very reasonably priced
as decking.Other than the difficulty to work with, it has a tendency to run red when
new. After that, though, it seems like a good choice. I mean, marinas have
decks made out of it.Any thoughts?
Plastic, of course, is far easier to use, much harder to seal because
nothing sticks to it, but lasts forever. Downside is expense and it’s very
easily damaged.Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
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