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Alan,
Those hinges are not special marine hinges – they are standard hinges you can purchase from Home Depot for $1.79 a pair. You don't need stainless steel for interior hinges as none of the ones supplied by Pearson are – they're all just cabinetry hinges. As far as the hinges on the doors in the aft bunk, I'd get the self-closing ones. They spring closed when the door is close to closed and they're just snappier. Your choice though. They all come with matching screws.
You can get them in many finishes at H.D. from chrome to brushed steel to brass to antiqued brass, etc. They are 2-1/2″ and are not offset (offset hinges are for where the door isn't flat in back, i.e. it has a 3/8″ indent, but I digress.
There are just some things on a boat that don't need to be 'marine' and you'd just be paying too much for them.
This is just my opinion so take that with a grain of salt.
Bob
On Fri, Jun 26, 2009 at 8:35 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Ok so my mind is going slowly…. I broke two hinges yesterday and the idiot I am did not remove them so I can match them up with new ones. I will not be at the boat again for about a week.
Can someone take a look at
a) the hinges on the aft hanging locker
b) hinges on the two little doors under the aft berth and see if they are like
part # 201954 or 201914http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/201954.pdf
http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/201914.pdfthank you
alan—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Ok, the bronze replacement hinges for the outside hinges (lazerette and stuff) are from Bristol Bronze – call Roger. For interior hinges, go to Home Depot – they have offset and flat hinge replacements for like $1.79
Bob
On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 5:04 PM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Awhile back someone mentioned that they purchased quality hinges for the doors around the inside of the boat (under aft berth etc)
Anyone remember this or know of a source other than the crap they sell at WM.
thanks
alan—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
If you aren't totally enamored of the thing, I'll be very surprised. You can even run your water heater (although that's all you'll run) on it. It takes 1/2hr to 45 min to do the job.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 8:35 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:All right, thanks to you all for your feedback. I'm convinced the Honda will meet my needs. It'll also give me some pleasant options, such as running an air conditioner (none installed, but I've used a window unit on the coachhouse in the past), or a hookah diving rig (THAT's what I want for Christmas!), or even my greediest power tools… I think I'm going to enjoy this thing.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Dan,
They come with backing plates. The only caveat is that you'll have to chop up some of the plywood cleats under the coach roof to do the job properly.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 8:26 AM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:
For those of you with pulpits: How did you mount them? Did you install a backing plate? Any “unique” problems locating them on a ketch? I plan to purchase a set (my last cartoon style move to the forward deck off of Koko Head cinched my decision).
Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
You are correct – even if your charger can do 20 amps DC, in AC terms, it's like 2.5 amps (inefficiencies in all the stuff), but I'm sure the charger will output a great deal more for short periods of time. In any case, though, the generator will suffice to power it.
All my AC goes through my charger/inverter – it's rated, oddly, at 20 amps continuous, not 30 as you'd expect. But I've never popped the breaker before the generator's breaker pops….
Bob
On Wed, Jun 24, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks for the mini-lesson, Bob. Perhaps it's like Bob Marley sang: “Every little thing gonna' be all right.”
Still, I find it odd that the Owner's Manual specs for this Xantrex Truecharge 20, which came with my boat, say:
Output Current : 20 amps continuous duty
Output Voltage, Charge: 13.8 – 14.8V DC (depending on setting)
Output Voltage, Float : 13.1 – 14.2V DC (depending on setting)
Input Voltage : (115VAC) 90-135VAC 48-62Hz
Efficiency : 85%Doesn't that appear to be saying this charger's output is 20 amps at 13.8 to 14.8V DC (depending on setting)? In other words, is it possible my 20 amp charger is not rated at 20 amps AC as yours seems to be, but at 20 amps DC? And if it is outputting 20 amps DC, then it seems a bit hopeful that a 16.7 amps maximum output from the Honda generator will be sufficient to power it.
The one glimmer of hope is that the Honda's output seems to be 16.7 amps AC, and from what you say that is equal to around 167 amps DC. If that's the case, then it should be able to easily power half a dozen battery chargers like mine.
Yes, no, maybe?Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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My hull #8 also had no teak on the cockpit combings. I wish there was none on the bulwark either.
Bob
2009/6/24 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:Pete,
Happy to report my boat came to me (and almost certainly came from the factory) with no teak on the cockpit combings.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
Very simply, a 20 amp charger is rated at 20 amps AC, and at 12vdc with an assumed 100% conversion, that translates to 10 times the current or theoretically 200 amps. In reality you don't have batteries that can take that kind of power. So, the generator will definitely power your charger. If you really run your batteries down to nothing, the generator will labor to do the job, but not to the point it'll die. I've run my house bank down to 50% (three 4D AGM's) in 4 days at anchor and the Honda ran them back to 100% in 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
Two formulae to remember: P=IE and E=IR
(Power in watts = I (current in amps) x E (volts) and Volts = Current x Resistance in Ohms. Taking this further, substituting the E with I x R, you get P = I^2 R (Eye Squared R). What does that mean to you? Well cable sizing is based on I^2R losses. Anyway, probably more than you wanted to know and more than you need to know.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 24, 2009 at 8:50 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I'd like to order a Honda EU2000i, but since I mostly need it for charging batteries I want to be sure it'll power my Xantrex TrueCharge 20-amp battery charger. Thing is, I'm confused about AC vs. DC amperage ratings and what I can expect from the EU2000i in this regard. How can that generator, rated at 16.7 amps maximum output, power a 20-amp battery charger, let alone (as you wrote) “put out 60+ amps DC loading the generator to about 12 amps?” Can you explain this apparent anomaly to an electrically challenged neophyte?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I'll admit to having much the same thoughts, since I can count on one hand leaving several fingers left over the number of times I've actually powered on the fan (it's noisy).
Although I don't feel a need to ventilate my admittedly much dirtier bilge (not oily, but not painted either) where I'd have to use an old person grabby thing to sponge the water out with, I do like the vents on the transom. With the two scoops on the boat (anchor locker and head) the aft vents give the air someplace to go, I think, when the boat is all buttoned up. Or not.
So I may also remove said failing blower and hoses. I need all the space I can get.
Bob
On Mon, Jun 22, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,
See, I told you guys (and gal) I do lots of reckless, counter-culture, non-Standard things around this boat. Yes, I really got rid of the bilge vent system. I dimly remember using them aboard other boats in the days of gasoline auxiliary engines, but not since then. My boat's bilges are clean and freshly painted white and dry except for a 1/2″ of clear water in the deep sump that the pump can't pick up. Sometimes I even sponge that out and wipe it dry, just because I can.
So, for what (I asked myself in a particularly introspective if not lucid moment) did I need all those huge, fat bilge vent air ducts clogging up spaces that I wanted to use for storage and wire & hose runs and so on, and wow (I actually thought “wow”), wouldn't it be a lot more useful to build a stern anchor chain locker beneath the starboard aft cockpit combing where Mr. Pearson saw fit to put one of those jumbo ventilator fans and, by the way (I actually thought “Oh, my” or some reasonable facsimile), isn't that port bilge vent cowl strategically placed smack dab in the middle of the passageway of the offset stern boarding gate, squatting there (I presumed) solely for the purpose of tripping anyone who happens to pass through said gate? That didn't seem so practical, almost as silly as placing the primary sheet winches on all Pearson 424's right where you have to step to enter and exit the cockpit (from and to the side decks) and way, way out of reach of the helmsman, who (in the case of single-handers like us) is the only person in the cockpit who needs to reach them when tacking. The answers to these and other soul-searching questions gave me something to do for the past 2-1/2 years while refitting this good old boat. Changing things around to suit myself has been (and continues to be) part of the fun of “messing around with boats.”
Sorry, have I been rambling again?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Really Tor? You got rid of the bilge vent system? What prompted that? I mean, other than one almost never uses it? Wouldn't you have to have it to sell the boat? How about if you had a propane leak? Wouldn't you want to vent it out (although, now that I think of it, using a crappy old 12v blower is probably not the smartest way to rid the bilge of explosive fumes)?
I'm just curious – I've never heard of anyone doing that, although I can't really see any good reason to keep it.
Bob
On Mon, Jun 22, 2009 at 1:52 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Quent,
Thanks, those are good pointers. I got rid of that whole bilge vent system on my boat – all those fat ducts and the little scoops on the aft bridge deck – so I'm not likely to repeat your situation, at least not in the same way. Still, I'll pay attention to where the generator exhaust is going once I've got the thing and have a chance to try it out.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Hi Tor and Linus,
Since I have every 30 amp to 20 amp/15 amp type of adapter known to man, I didn't get a 30amp connector one. The other advantage is that for beach parties I can bring the generator and run ice makers/reefers/guitar amps and so forth where you'd need an adapter, so you don't save anything there. But really, any small generator you go for will be fine. You'd be surprised how much power the Xantrex will pour into the batteries – remember, the 20amps is 20 amps AC, not DC. I've seen the 2000 put out 60+ amps DC loading the generator to about 12 amps. Really, if your batteries are that dead you have other problems.
I can also run the water heater with the 2000eu – but I have to turn off the charger. Still, a couple hours run I've got hot water and fully charged batteries (3- 4Ds and a group 31).
Linus, I generally put the generator up on the coach roof to run it. I have run it on the cockpit seat, too, as long as there's a good breeze. I've never died doing that. The generator has a low oxygen shutdown, too, I think.
The only place I won't run it is on the bridge deck or in the cabin (duh).
Good luck to both of you! You'll be happy as heck with a. a generator, and b. the Honda if that's what you get.
Bob
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 12:05 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Those of you who use a Honda unit, where do place it when you run it? I think because the cockpit drains exit below the waterline they would not vent any CO. I am thinking of using it on the swim platform but I am concerned about it being close to the salt water. Maybe I should just shut up and go sailing for a while and figure it out.
Linus<.. snip>
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Hi Tor,
I have a Honda 2000eu and I'm thrilled with it – even given my benign neglect it runs every time and I plug it into my AC shoreside inlet with an extension cord. With it I can charge my batteries through the regular charger (Xantrex Freedom 2000) and I can run my water heater (not at the same time). I've never used the 12vdc outlet because I can use the inverter on the Freedom.
I think I bought mine a couple of years ago for the same price/shipping thing you've found.
Here's the thing, in my opinion: You can purchase another make of generator. You'll save a hundred dollars, maybe. But when the chips are down and you need the generator, the Honda just runs and does what it's supposed to.
It also has a fuel saving mode – one tank will run the charger and the rest of the boat for 2-3+ hours. The non-energy saving mode will run the boat for about an hour. The tank is one gallon. It's quiet and it runs my hookah compressor just fine.
So, I like the Honda. I wanted the 3000, but it was twice the price! Two 2000's can be wired together for 4000 watts if you need it (and you have the special cable).
That's the one downside to the Honda – everything's extra….
Bob
On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 7:27 AM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Tor,
There has been extensive discussions about exactly what you want to do with the Honda on SSCA web site. You don't have to be a member to search. Jack Tyler a fellow 424 owner has a few thoughts on that also.
I believe there are issues with powering a 20 amp charger from that generator. I could be wrong though.
alan— On Sun, 6/21/09, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Without consulting the manual just now, I'd hazard this guess: head bolt adjustment is almost always done cold, then the engine is run and cooled down and done again – but this is for a newly installed head and gasket. There is usually no reason to retorque the head bolts unless the gasket's been replaced (if you're getting water in the oil or in the exhaust – white exhaust – then tightening the head bolts isn't the solution – replacing the head gasket is).
As far as the valves go, I know my Universal required the engine to be cold to do the adjustment. I suspect the W58 is the same, but check the manual which is available somewhere on the P424 site, or if it isn't I'll send you a copy.
Regards,
Bob
On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 9:56 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I would like to adjust the valves this season on my W-58. Question is, should I first warm up the engine (to what temperature or for how long) and then torque the head bolts.
After I do that, should I then warm up the engine again before adjusting the valves?
Thanks!
Rodd—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The V-drive is pretty rock solid – although it does have a couple of failure modes. Since it's spent its life in fresh water the jacket should be relatively rust free, but you could look into it by taking the top off. When checking the oil in the drive there should be no water (duh).
Many people do maintenance by season – fall is change oil and filters for the winter, spring change zincs and other consumables. Or whatever. The oil change interval is usually something like every 100 hours and most casual cruisers put that on each season (or less depending on your area and winds). So, in my opinion, there may be nothing unusual with the lack of hour knowledge.
For your survey, however, I'd do an engine oil analysis. Which engine is in there? If it's a Westerbeke W60, it's original. If anything else, it's been replaced.
One thing you'll like about the 424 is that the rig is very easily managed with little effort up until you get to gale conditions (then I don't care what boat you have it'll be difficult). The key words for the 424 is 'no drama'. They are stable and generally strong and can be pushed hard. Others on them could tell you better stories than I, and there are a fair number of them who are near your age (I think).
On a '79 boat that has been cared for many of the systems will not be original. If they are you'll be spending time replacing stuff on a regular basis. Check the hoses and through-hulls specifically. Other then that, you should get a competent surveyor.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I've been dealing with that strip since I got the boat – mine's in good condition and is working fine. Sorry.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:21 PM, Alan < ([email][/email])> wrote:
During the winter I rewired the main mast. I ran all new wires from the mast step under the bilge and up to the aft hanging locker.
I finally got around to pulling out all the old wires the other day. The old wires run through the looms on the Stb side of the boat and through all the lockers to the fwd hanging locker. I was doing good up until then. The wires were just pulling out. Once I got to the hanging locker I could not budge them. Investigating, I removed the cover from the seat next to the hanging locker. In there was some of that perforated board. Underneath the board was – a TERMINAL STRIP. All rusty and yucky. The wires come up out of the bilge to this terminal strip.
I did not know that terminal strip existed. It was labeled and everything – Mast light – anchor light etc…..
Anybody else know about this. Anybody not know about this and are surprised.
alan
#140—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I, for one, cannot wait to meet you, Tor!
On Tue, Jun 16, 2009 at 8:53 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks, Bob. I have few regrets in my life; using Vaseline has never been one of them.
🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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