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Hi Tor,
Vaseline will do the job nicely – as well as lithium grease. Don’t
regret using it. It’s also easier to clean off if you need to.Bob
On 6/16/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Darn! Wish I’d thought of lithium grease yesterday. I have some aboard and
could’ve used it instead of Vaseline.Oh, well, next time. Now at least I’ll get to find out for myself how well
the old home remedy works.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Wow! Tor, I'll be heading down from Connecticut at the same time! I'm off to the Bahamas then although there are places I want to stop and see and generally fool around at!
Bob
On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Well, I'm still mulling it over. It's possible I'll have to be at the Annapolis Sailboat Show in early October, which would make the decision for me of whether or not to go up to the Chesapeake.
Hope to pay you a visit in New Bern, in any case. Will be in touch about that.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
To amplify your comment, Tor, silicone is not adhesive – it is a compressive sealant (like a gasket but much more annoying). Slathering a terminal with the stuff will not only make servicing difficult but will also guarantee that corrosion will take place out of sight resulting in a failure at the most inappropriate time. Silicone really has no place on a boat except, perhaps, a dab on the end of cotter pins on the pins that hold the standing rigging turnbuckles to the chainplates. I know there's a name for those pins but am having a brain fart and cannot remember what they're called.
Rich's recommendation is spot on.
Bob
On Mon, Jun 15, 2009 at 11:07 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I KNEW you'd know, Rich. Thanks.FYI, I looked it up in “The 12-Volt Bible for Boats” while I was waiting to hear back from the group. In the section on Battery Maintenance and Tools the author suggested, “A little petroleum jelly or oil will help to prevent future corrosion.”
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I don't know what the specific oil pressure should be but it will decrease as the hours accumulate. The thing that controls the pressure is the oil pump pressure relief valve – it's that way with all pressurized oil engines.
I think 85psi is probably ok – higher pressure is better than lower especially where small tolerances are involved. A diesel should run a little higher than a gas engine and if you have a turbo ( I think you do) you want as high a pressure as things will stand.
Unless the Cummins people say different, I'd be happy.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 6:06 PM, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
OK guys
I have a brand new Cummins 4BT 3.3 from Trans Atlantic Diesel with 6.7 hours on it. The oil pressure gauge has gone past the max 80 psi that shows on the gauge since the first start up. I talked to Marcus and he said that he would send me a new sending unit. He did and I installed it almost 10 months later. I didn't feel like it was important because my list was so long that it didn't rank very high. After I installed the new unit I had the same readings. He told me to connect a mechanical gauge and I got a reading of 75 psi at idle and 85 psi at 2000 rpm's. Today he said that these are within normal operating limits. I can't find a max oil pressure in the manual or online but 85 psi seems excessive to me. Does anyone have any idea if he's just blowing sunshine up my big ol' butt or if that's the right oil pressure.
Linus
Sumocean #34—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pat,
If by 'pieces' you mean top, unit, power cord then yes they make it in pieces. If you mean can you take them apart and install them somehow I'd say nothing's impossible but you'd really be better off purchasing a marine refrigerator.
Here's the nice thing about the Engel: You can put it in your car, go to the store, fill it up with stuff, drive to the boat, beach, country home, whatever and keep stuff cold with the 12v cord. You'd not want to use it without electricity for too long (an hour or two) as it uses an evaporator not a holding plate.
I was actually thinking of making a cutout where the refrigerator is and installing it as a drop-in unit. But the refrigerator is still working ok and I don't see a reason to upgrade (yet – let's see how it goes in the Caribbean…)
Bob
On Thu, Jun 4, 2009 at 11:20 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob, you’re the 2nd person in as many days to recommend the Engel. Here’s a question. DO they make it in pieces for installations like our original refrigerators in the galley?
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I have mine forward of the salon table on the starboard side. I've also kept it against the forward bulkhead of the nav station as well. I have 12v sockets installed in both places.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 3, 2009 at 11:29 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Robert, I’ve been thinking of one of those for a while, where do you keep your stowed?
On 6/3/09 5:46 AM, Robert Fine wrote :
If you have the money, get an Engel 25 qt or 35 qt 12v refrigerator/freezer. Uses low power and will work as a freezer or refrigerator. I have a 35qt one and am tickled pink with it.
Bob
PS – they're the priciest of portables, but they are the best, too.
On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 10:03 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pat
Thanks….
we definitely won't try it then…
RickOn Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 9:38 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I know ! I know!! pick me!!!
We did this once.. Froze the refrigerant right up. Really hard on the compressor. Made nothing cold for several days. The system did recover and we felt like idiots once we realized what we had done.
Use the dry ice in a good cooler —- then transfer the rock hard contents to your nice (not overly) cold freezer.
– pat
On 6/2/09 7:54 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Going cruising in the Chesapeake for a couple of weeks.
We leave Friday for a clockwise DelMarVa circumnavigation.
Our refrigerator on the boat works great but we have very limited freezer space.
The Admiral was considering using dry ice to extend the time we could have some meats on board. The brochure on dry ice says don't use it in a working refrigerator…. anybody know why?
Rick
Eclipse #73
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If you have the money, get an Engel 25 qt or 35 qt 12v refrigerator/freezer. Uses low power and will work as a freezer or refrigerator. I have a 35qt one and am tickled pink with it.
Bob
PS – they're the priciest of portables, but they are the best, too.
On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 10:03 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pat
Thanks….
we definitely won't try it then…
RickOn Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 9:38 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I know ! I know!! pick me!!!
We did this once.. Froze the refrigerant right up. Really hard on the compressor. Made nothing cold for several days. The system did recover and we felt like idiots once we realized what we had done.
Use the dry ice in a good cooler —- then transfer the rock hard contents to your nice (not overly) cold freezer.
– pat
On 6/2/09 7:54 PM, Rick Dugger wrote:
Going cruising in the Chesapeake for a couple of weeks.
We leave Friday for a clockwise DelMarVa circumnavigation.
Our refrigerator on the boat works great but we have very limited freezer space.
The Admiral was considering using dry ice to extend the time we could have some meats on board. The brochure on dry ice says don't use it in a working refrigerator…. anybody know why?
Rick
Eclipse #73
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I tried to get it from Defender last year and they said they weren't going to carry it anymore – they had like 2' left.
Good luck!
Bob
On Tue, May 26, 2009 at 9:57 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
http://www.pleasureboatmarine.com/bomp2000255.html pricey
I think I got some from defender when I did mine
Pete
Eric Lorentzon wrote:
I am looking for a supplier for 3/8″ x 3/8″ gasket material for the very old ports on my 424.
Don't know what manufacturer made them as there are no marks. They are aluminum, with the glass seald in by a sandwich construction, The channel for the gasket looks to have been machined in and is square. Any ideas? I took them apart this winter and glass bead blasted them and rebeaded the glass – came out pretty good.
Any ideas?
Eric
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The hatches were made by Bomar, who recently stopped producing the gaskets for them. I purchased 3/8 x 3/8 rubber from McMaster Carr and used that.
Bob
On Mon, May 25, 2009 at 8:16 PM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I am looking for a supplier for 3/8″ x 3/8″ gasket material for the very old ports on my 424.
Don't know what manufacturer made them as there are no marks. They are aluminum, with the glass seald in by a sandwich construction, The channel for the gasket looks to have been machined in and is square. Any ideas? I took them apart this winter and glass bead blasted them and rebeaded the glass – came out pretty good.
Any ideas?
Eric
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Oh, ah. As I have only one idiot light and it goes on with the buzzer, it's an easy thing to hook up. You're correct, though, if one buzzer is attached to more than one light you'd need diodes. I don't remember what the Yanmar panel looks like.
Bob
On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 11:01 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
Its not the voltage rating. I think there are isolation diodes in the buzzer. The instrument panel has four idiot lights. The four wires from the lights also go to four wires on the buzzer. If there weren't diodes in there, this would short the four idiot lights together so they would all come on in any failure.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
I suspect that the Yanmar alarm can be replaced with a standard Radio Shack 12v alarm buzzer – it seems unusual that Yanmar would go out of its way to use a buzzer that's some other voltage. Easy way to find out is to test the voltage when the key is on but engine not started (unplug alarm first). I replaced my Westerbeke 58 alarm that got full of water (I really don't know how). Man, is it loud and annoying. I think you could hear it at the marina office – 700 feet away!
Bob
On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 1:32 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
My yacht club has two launches with Yanmar 75 horse engines. The boats were purchased new about 3 years ago. This is the same engine that I have in my boat. When servicing one of the launches this spring, someone improperly installed an oil filter. I'm not sure how you do this wrong. Perhaps they didn't remove the gasket from the old filter before installing the new one. The filter leaked all the engine oil into the bilge and then seized. The operator didn't hear the engine alarm. It is suspected that instrument panel alarm override switch was set, silencing the alarm. The yanmar alarm is not very loud. Its possible that the operator didn't hear the alarm over the engine noise even if the switch was not set.
The club is replacing the failed engine. We've removed the alarm override switch and replaced the whimpy yanmar buzzer with a 110db alarm. For those of us who have installed similar yanmar engines, I suggest doing the same. I'll be taking a close look at my instrument panel this evening. The yanmar alarm has several wire terminals for the connection of various engine senders. Its not clear that you can just replace the buzzer with a different one. I think there are isolation diodes in the buzzer. I may have to do some extra wiring to get this done properly. Once I figure out precisely what's needed, I'll send out another message with more info.
Regards
Rich Carter—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Saayyy – if you could get enough DU, you could have a fast breeder reactor in the bilge. How about that?
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 9:34 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have thought -dreamed- about acquiring one of the 424 molds and making a new, one off 424. I know there are all sorts of legal things involved that would impede a project like this, but I think it would be a great challenge. I'd beef it up in the known weak areas, the V berth and transom for example, and try to build it to meet off shore standards.One of the things I'd change is the lead ballast. I have a source for U238 – that is spent uranium. It is three times more dense than lead and 7600 pounds of U238 will require 1/3 the space of the lead. The righting moment would be much greater than what our 424 enjoy now which might result in less total weight. This would also open up a huge area where the lead is currently located.
As an academic exercise, I'm interested in reading what others might change as well, given the fact that we have to use the existing 424 molds.
Lee
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
I'm well aware of the power of ice – but as Iived on the boat all winter and the bilge never went below 40 degrees (because the water didn't), I know that that wasn't the problem. The problem was caused by point loading the hollow part and essentially crushing it. My bad, as I had the marina put the block there – that said, on my Ranger 30, the false keel part of the boat behind the ballast was so thick and solid that you could block it there and drop the lead for rebedding.
Lesson learned. On my way now!
Regard,
Bob
On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 9:27 AM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:There is a common problem with boats with deep sumps such as the 424. If water fills the sump area during winter layup, it will expand when freezing and crack the back of the keel. Water can get in any number of ways including a hose failure or just rainwater through the locker lids and engine dorade vents. Hose failure can occur if water accumulates inside the hose until it gets clogged with ice. Once the bottom of the hose gets blocked, the upper section will fill with water. This may split the hose open when it freezes. I throw some rock-salt in the deck drains every now and then if it looks like ice is building up in there. I've had three-foot long icicles hanging from my through-hulls. The worst offender is the copper drain pipe in the propane locker. This can get blocked very easilly and will split open if water freezes in there.
There isn't much you can do to keep all water out of your bilge during wither layup. I toss a couple of gallons of anti-freeze down there to keep the ice from freezing solid. If I'm careful about maintaining the boat during storage, I only get a couple of gallons of water down there during the winter.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Tor,
The thickness at the keel base may be 1″, but it was a couple of layers of fiberglass, a lot of putty (I'm guessing epoxy, but don't know), and then a couple of layers of fiberglass – I could see that this job had been done twice as there were two full repair places.
The water coming out was from the leaking hoses at the top of an over-full holding tank. Yuck. Fixed that problem and then there was no more water.
It took about 8 hours from grinding out to fairing the repair at the bottom, about two feet long. Dropped in the water this morning and am currently anchored awaiting the tide to change at the Battery (NYC).
NOAA says it's cloudy, but really, it's raining…. Hahaha on me!
It would seem to me that if the hull was laid up in one piece, there wouldn't be a seam right at the bottom as there'd be overlapping layers, but I could be wrong.
I can tell you now that it's solid 1+ inches of mat, chopped mat, and epoxy. I think it's as solid as it can be.
Thanks for the info!
Bob
On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 7:48 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,It seems unlikely the 424 hull mold was molded in two halves. Not impossible, but unlikely. Also, if the weakness you've discovered is common to these boats, I wonder that it is not generally known already and even addressed by Bill Shaw at some point, like the oil-canning forward.
What was the source of the water leaking from the bottom of your keel? Was is bilge water exiting through a crack in the keel base, or seawater absorbed into the fiberglass (and filler?) from the outside? What kind of “filler” did you find in the bottom of the keel. Where and how much? What was the overall thickness of the 'glass in the area you're repairing? What are you doing to fix it once and for all?
FYI, I recently drilled a hole for a garboard drain plug a couple of inches above the sump bottom just abaft the ballast. Pearson built up that strip fore & aft to reinforce and round out the nearly 90-degree angle formed between the sump's side and its bottom. The fiberglass there is 1-1/8″ thick and perfectly solid, no filler. I'd have preferred to find the 'glass even thicker there – these boats in general are built on the light side for their size – but the execution seems proper and the strength adequate if not awesome.
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
So, my splash didn't happen because water was dripping out the bottom of the keel – not a good sign. A little grinder work and I find that this same problem has happened at least twice before in this boat's life.
Lots of grinding and three 1/2″ holes into the bilge later I find that construction of that portion of the keel (and maybe more) is chintzy at best, dangerous at worst. I can only suppose that these boats were molded in halves and taped together at the seam. This would explain the 1/4″ of fiberglass down the seam and the crapload of filler at the keel's bottom.
Feh – now repairing so that it's the last time this happens.
Safety tip – DO NOT BLOCK THE AFT HALF OF THE KEEL. If any significant weight is placed on it, even just aft of the ballast, you could break it. I know, because that's what made the problem so bad on this haul out.
As for you, Adam, fuel coming to the filter but not out means that the filter is plugged somehow – it may be a manufacturing defect. If you remove the filter and turn on the ignition, will fuel pour out? That is if you have an electric fuel pump? If you don't you may have a weak lift pump, if there is one. Or, on the last change, a rag, sponge, cork, scalpel or forcept may have been left in there?
Those are the things I'd check first – bad filter, something plugging, then pump.
Bob
On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 3:18 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
So the splash did not happen bc fuel, clean and rosy red, goes into my secondary filter but not out. It's sporting a Fram 3166. Clean. What the hell?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
