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Hi Adam,
Not only is it 5/16, get the graphite packing – it's slipperier than teflon, can be tightened until it stops leaking and runs cool.
Bob
On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 1:31 PM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks guys. It's 5/16.
-Chatty Cathy
(“details, details”)On May 14, 2009, at 11:54 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
What size flax packing? 3/8 is way too big. And do folks use packing lubricant as well?
-Adam Silverstein-iPhone
(“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Any glass place can cut you a tempered glass circle to fit. Before plastic, all sight glasses were glass (hence the name, and not 'sight plastics'). Tempered glass cuts like regular glass – the difference is that safety glass does not – it has a polycarbonate film between sheets and therefore doesn't cut properly.
Still, you could get a piece of 1/2″ thick glass from a glass place that isn't safety glass. You'd have to be careful of dropping large hammers, wrenches and the like on the thing – but glass is surprisingly strong, especially if it's thick.
That said, for the cost and aggravation of replacing that plastic, I'd go the whole hog and put an electric fuel gauge in and put a deck plate over the hole for access. I may even do that. I think about it every time I go past the things in West Marine. The whole job is just about 1 boat buck ($100). For a bronze or stainless deck plate add two more boat bucks. Maybe less if you go to a salvage place.
Right-o! Back to work for me.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The original Westerbeke manuals (somewhere on this site in .PDF format) have fuel burn graphs that are really accurate – from 1900 rpm or so, a burn of a little less than a gallon an hour to 2300 rpm with a fuel burn of 3+ gallons per hour only increases speed through the water with clean hull from about 6.2-6.4 kts to 7.2-7.3 kts – hardly worth the extra fuel burn in my opinion. This is for the W58.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Dan,
I've replaced the gauge head and left the original float thing the way it was. You can still purchase the dial – it's like $15.00. Mine is pretty accurate. As far as the portlight goes, replacing the acrylic is a royal pain in the ass if the inner ring has corroded. You can polish the lens with flitz or something like it. I have a little light inside that is on when the ignition key is on and allows you to see gauge easily at night and with difficulty during the day.
I'm thinking of going electric for around $80.00 for the whole kit and kaboodle at West and replacing the portlight with a watertight stainless steel or bronze deck plate.
Bob
On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 8:48 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Dan,
You can replace the lens in the deck portlight with new acrylic, and the fuel gauge with an identical unit from West Marine. Then it works well enough.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
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Hi Ron,
I had the best luck with the Boat U.S. site with my Ericson 34. I got what I was asking and it was a good vehicle for pictures and so forth. Unless you're going to list with a broker, Yachtworld is not the place, I think.
Bob
On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 9:13 AM, Ron Repp < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Actually, that's where mine are – under the dodger. I, personally, don't like big holes in the cockpit or coaming. But as I thought they were flush-mount that a bulkhead was a good place.
Incidentally, the new marine speakers have plastic cones that really are waterproof. The cones are bonded to the frame forming a watertight membrane.
That said, I agree with John; I think if you want to listen to music in the cockpit, bring your own. I'd rather listen to the wind and water and birds and for things about to fail…
Bob
On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 9:37 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Adam,
I think we all miss-read you when you said flush mount. We should have asked for more details on the speakers before offering mounting positions. I think Patrick has the best solution – under the Dodger. You might consider making the mounting removable, so the speakers can be stored below when you are not on the boat.On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 9:11 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:That's what I have. Pyle 3 1/2″. How are yours wired?-Adam Silverstein-iPhone (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)
On May 8, 2009, at 7:02 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Along those lines, I am going to mount my cockpit speakers under the Dodger or Bimini, but they're the external box speakers, not the cutout mount in the wall kind.
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comhttp://www.DeepPlaya.com<.. snip>
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I would put them in the forward bulkhead, under the bridge deck. Low
traffic area so less likely to get stepped on and it doesn’t impact
storage and it is dead stupid simple to wire to.But that’s just me.
Bob
On 5/8/09, Adam MacNeill <> wrote:
Quote:I have 6.5 inch, flush mount speakers for the cockpit. Any suggestions on
the best place for them?To:
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi James,
By eyeball is perfectly ok. It just has to be pretty close – you'll know if it's wrong because the belt will look twisted and there will be a great deal of wear dust from it.
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 12:30 PM, james bartch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Aloha to All
I recently had to replaced the Sherwood water pump on my w 58 and was told that i should double check the aignmnet (because the way it bolts on allows, for some movement). When i installeld it i just made sure that the pully was located in the same position that it was taken from and bolted it back up. Do i need a special tool for aligning it or can i align it my self by site or??? please reply.
James
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
That should work – the striping tape doesn't have a transfer layer, though. Other than that, it's a great idea. Usually what I do is use masking tape to make the lower (or upper) tape boundary. This allows me to check the straightness and so forth of the line for aesthetics. Then I apply the tape using the masking tape border as a guide, working a small section at a time. When I get to one end of the boat or another, I'm done.
Thanks!
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:38 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Here's what I do for vinyl boat lettering. I see no reason this wouldn't work for bootstripe tape. For removal, heat the vinyl with a heat-gun to soften the adhesive.- Create a Liquid Soapy Water Mixture: Mix 1 drop (about 1/2 teaspoon) of dish soap with 32 oz. of water. Mix in a spray bottle.
- Prepare mix before you begin application.
- * Spray a liberal amount of soap & water mixture on the surface to which you are applying the vinyl AND the adhesive side of the vinyl – first remove the paper backing.
- ** Squeegee out the water. Allow the water to completely dry before removing the transfer tape.
Regards
Rich
BackSheep #47
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Hi John,
I've had experience with the tape before. That's why I chose the idea. There are several things you can do to make the tape more successful and easier to remove. First, make sure the painted surface is as smooth as you can make it. That in itself is a whole other subject. Then, when the paint is dry, wash and wax it with a good paste wax (more on that later). Make sure it's buffed out and really smooth. Apply the tape slowly and rub bubbles out as they occur. If you have to overlap, make sure the overlap is the forwardmost tape. That way ships motion tends not to peel it off. It's really important to get a good adhesion across the tape.
Everyone has different experiences with the stuff. I found that when the tape was looking ratty, it was time to haul and paint the boat anyway.
Now, for the wax.
My friend, Herb, who is a bit of an experimentalist, found that taking a jar of Royal creme wax and adding Penetrol and mixing thoroughly would produce a cleaner wax that penetrated the gelcoat (especially older, porous gelcoat) and would produce a really slick finish that lasts a whole season! The advantage to adding the Penetrol is that the wax takes longer to dry meaning you can do patches bigger than a square foot at a time – you can actually apply it to half a side at a time before buffing even on a hot sunny day. The disadvantage is that you need to use an electric buffer unless you've been doing 'wax on-wax off' for a long time and have arms like a gorilla. Another disadvantage is that you have to be careful with newly painted surfaces as the Penetrol will smear them if you are too exuberant with your application.
Anyway, after applying the tape, I wax the stripe again and then go sailing. Which is the point of the whole drill anyway. 🙂
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 8:55 AM, John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,Do not get the tape! The Indulgence has tape and it has been comming off in bits in pieces over the last three years. Unfortunately it leaves the glue behind. I have to remove the glue residue and repaint every year…but not enough to get the remaining tape up. So the process repeats year after year.
Unfortunately, it is bumpy and really looks bad up close. I can't state strongly enough…the tape is a terrible idea.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179— On Thu, 5/7/09, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Ok, thanks everyone for the input! Here's what I'm going to do:
I'm going to paint the whole area within the moulded in lines blue. Then I'm going to bring the bottom paint up to that. Then I'm going to get a couple of rolls of 1″ boottop tape and run it along the bottom edge of the stripe. Why tape? Because if I don't like it I can remove it without destroying the stripe, or if I want it in a different place I don't have to repaint the whole mess. The tape is resistant to scum and it is easy to keep clean.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pat,
That's what I thought – how wide is the white part?
Thanks,
Bob
On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 7:19 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pictures…. http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/FallBoatWork
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/SpringBoatStuff– pat
On 5/6/09 5:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look 'prettier'. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well done, I say!
So I'm trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I'm wrong, then the bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.
Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Here’s something I’d try. I’d mix a little 5 minute epoxy. I’d clean
the chamber with starting fluid (make sure you have reallty good
ventilation) and let it dry. Don’t worry about getting it in the
engine. Then, using a skewer I’d put a little blob on the end and
stick it into the hole. Not too much and make sure you don’t get epoxy
on the sides. Hold the skewer in place until the epoxy sets.When it is totally set, carefully pull the piece out. If it works,
you’re golden. If not, you are no worse off as you have to pull the
head anyway.Incidentally, pulling a head is easy. Putting it back is the hard part…
Bob
On 5/2/09, adam silverstein <> wrote:
all the way in? a magnet? Shop vac & duct tape? piece of flexible
plastic with gum on it?On May 2, 2009, at 6:16 PM, Aaron Lynch wrote:
Well, today I went to install my new $325 glow plugs.
The good news is I discovered the broken one did not go into the
cylinder.The bad news is the broken one seems to be in the glow plug
chamber, and it seems to be flush and pretty well corroded in, so I
cant retrieve it with tweezers or the like.So I’m guessing I have to take the head off right? Unless someone
has a easier trick? Any gotchas to taking the head off a w60?—
Sent from my mobile deviceBob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Hi, I'm on the boat and it's 3/8″ for my inner forestay and my head stay.
Bob
On Sat, May 2, 2009 at 12:58 PM, norris larson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Our Solent stay is 9/32, decided on by the rigger after he consulted with a naval architect. So far it seems to work with our high-cut Yankee the luff of which runs the full length of the stay, i.e., nearly to the mast head from the bow pulpit.
The rig gave us good formard drive and lift close hauled into a force 4 to 5 wind.
Norris Larson, Easy Reach, #203.— On Sun, 4/26/09, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
