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That's what I used, Patrick. I used 100' Stayset X with the paralay core size: 7/16 inch. I didn't splice the halyard shackle in – I used a halyard knot (like an inside out clove hitch). Works like a charm.
Bob
On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 6:56 PM, Patrick_Seattle < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was doing a search for halyard relacemnts in the forum and found this thread.I did a rough measure of my jib halyard by raising a tape up the furler (42' to the deck) and then measuring the tail of the existing wirerope halyard to be 52' from the splice to the bitter end. that comes out to be 94' or close enough to 100' to just call it 100' for me.
Just wanted to check if that sounded about right to all of you.
Thanks,
-patrickDeep Playa, #152 http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog: http://shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quite correct. In the Navy we were taught 1-2 drops per minute. The graphite packing will run perfectly cool with no water at all as long as you don't tighten it too much. How much is too much? After it stops dripping while running, don't tighten any more. Graphite is super slippery and so far I haven't scored any shafts with it. Your experience my vary. But 1-2 drops per minute while rotating, none while stopped.
If you do this in the water, which is totally possible, cut the new packing first – use the shaft as a guide and cut the packing on a 90 degree angle – you'll need three pieces plus however many you plan to drop in the bilge. Install them with the cut 90 degrees from the previous one (so that if one is at 12 o'clock, the next will be at 3, and the final at 6.
Be prepared for water. Make sure your bilge pump is working. If you've never done this, it's like first aid – you'll be surprised at all the blood, er ah, water that comes in, but unless you're really, really slow, or leave for a six pack of beer, the boat is in no danger.
There is an advantage to doing it in the water – namely, you'll find out just what it's like rather than having to do it in an emergency situation with no experience. That makes the emergency much worse since you'll not know what to expect.
And there, dear friends, is my two cents. I'll let you know how it goes…
Bob
On Fri, Aug 1, 2008 at 8:42 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:And that couple of drops of seawater every 30 seconds or so is only while the shaft is spinning. When the
shaft is still there should be no drip at all.Quote:
Original Message
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I'd like to add to Tor's exposition this little tidbit: There are many types of packing, flax, teflon impregnated flax, and graphite impregnated flax to name a few common ones. Flax packing definitely needs water. They say teflon doesn't but don't believe it. Teflon creeps with friction and I've found it to end up scoring the shaft. My absolute choice is the graphite impregnated one. That's what I'm replacing all my leaking packing with. I'll get the size for you when I get back to the boat as I have some there.
Bob
On Thu, Jul 31, 2008 at 5:03 AM, Jubilee < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Brought Jubilee from NC to MA. The packing gland on the prop shaft has a near constant drip. I assume it either needs to be replaced or the nuts tightened. Should this be something I try on my own or should I have it hauled and done by a professional?
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Hi Peter,
Thanks! I'll do that if my local guy can't get them.
Bob
On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 6:10 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Try Rock Auto for the fuel filter and order several. I think you will find their price on it to be excellent. Of course, just google the part number.Pete
Terry Jones wrote:
Quote:West marine sells them as Fram PF 8 I believe
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I called Fram. Guess what? It's a PH8A and the fuel filter is a P3726.
How about that?
Bob
On Wed, Jul 30, 2008 at 9:16 AM, Terry Jones < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:West marine sells them as Fram PF 8 I believe<.. snip>
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Hi Dale,
I think Tor did a hard dodger. I don't remember the link to the project, but I think it's in the 424 site. What he did was put a hard material on the frame for the canvas dodger. It seemed to work pretty well. If you're thinking of designing/building a real integral hard dodger, that's another story. I know if I did, I'd make it so the traveler was on a track as far aft as possible with the ability to mount two 4' solar panels, meaning the dodger would be significantly foreward of the current track to as far back as I could without affecting the mizzen.
Oh, with opening windows, too.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 29, 2008 at 4:22 PM, dale < ([email][/email])> wrote:
The Admiral is interested in finding out if anyone has a hard dodger on their 424. What do you like/dislike about it? She has seen a few other boats with hard dodgers and thinks we should have one. She heard of one that was in the area (North Carolina) but cannot find it, previously named “Grits,” and she heard about another in California. What are the group’s opinions on a hard dodger?
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Sure thing – let me get back to you.
On Tue, Jul 29, 2008 at 7:44 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Bob Fine and the group:
I think Bob mentioned he has a lead on some good quality golf cart batteries. Could you please post the info here or call me.
Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Dale,
I used acrylic, 3/8″ (double the Bomar), and 3M 400UV. So far so good. The real stuff apparently doesn't bond to acrylic. It does to plexi or whatever the other kind of window plastic is. I used Plastic Craft in Nyack, as I've used them so many times for so many things.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 29, 2008 at 8:10 AM, dale < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I have my hatches out for refurbishing now, expecting them back next week. I sent them to Select Plastics in East Norwalk, CT. http://www.selectplastics.com/ for new glass, gaskets, etc. They are a little on the expensive side but nothing like buying replacements. I just wish that I had them repainted when I had them out when I redid the bedding. I ordered the bedding and gasket material from Bowmar but had problems finding the glass locally and decided to let the experts do it. They will be using half inch material for a variety of reasons. I am eagerly awaiting their return since the plywood covers I made look bad but haven’t leaked yet but it is only a matter of time.<.. snip>
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Hi,
I have refurbished mine. I bought new gasket material from Bomar, had new plastic made (double the thickness), and got new arms for holding the hatch open. Bomar (Pompanette) charges a lot for all that, but it's less than new hatches.
Bob
On Mon, Jul 28, 2008 at 9:19 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I’ve been following this thread on refurbishing vs. replacing hatches
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f55/lewmar-hatches-17587.htmlI’m wondering has anyone refurbished their original bowmar hatches? I actually would like stainless steel for pure aesthetics, but I’m thinking it would be better to refurbish the hatches if that’s possible. Has anyone gone this route?
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I'd agree with that, but the town of East Hampton (or whomever) doesn't get any specific benefit from the citation, except, of course, the irritation factor and the amount for the citation. I suppose I'll do whatever is necessary.
Anyway, will see you there, swine-ish police or not.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 22, 2008 at 6:16 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Adam:-Maybe I wasn’t clear. If you have a documented vessel (IE, documented with the Coast Guard and have an official number) NY says you still have to register your boat in NY. If you have a documented vessel and the address shows RI, they won’t care. Or any other State. But if it shows NY and you are not registered in NY it’s a citation and a lot of paperwork. This is how they make sure they collect the sales tax and the use tax.
Best to you.
<.. snip>
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My documentation is on the vessel – I haven't determined what state to register in yet.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 22, 2008 at 5:01 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:PS Make sure your boat and dinghy registrations are on your vessel.I guess I am just a troublemaker. I know all the marine police.
<.. snip>
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Hi Thatcher,
Thank you so much for the info! How are they about boarding yachts? Is that typically an issue?
Bob
On Sat, Jul 19, 2008 at 6:46 AM, Thatcher Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Beginning Friday at about 4 PM or so…there will be a P424 Ketch on a mooring 100 yards directly West of the South Pier of East Hampton Point, the second major marina on the left as you mosey along South to Red Nun 24. It will be flying a barrage of signal flags. That’ll be me, WAVEMAKER. After you pass red nun 24 and enter the mooring channel (Marked by new buoys) to the West and in to the mooring field, turn North to get back towards WAVEMAKER. I’ll answer any questions before you anchor, point out all the POI’s and provide liquid refreshment and idle conversation to anyone who cares to dally. I recommend anchoring and rafting north of my position. ALL ARE WELCOME for refreshment before dinner. If the flags are up I am afloat and aboard.
IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER
1. DON’T TURN WEST UNTIL NUN 24 and then into the new mooring channel marked by a green and a red marker. Otherwise you’ll be spending too much time with Sea Tow instead of us.
2. Don’t go too close to the North end of the Harbor – less than 80 yards or so – because the bottom gets shallow.
3. Use plenty of scope. Itinerant captains have been known to successfully anchor in absentia for over a week or so, sans hurricanes.
4. WE have active, unpleasant and unprofessional in my humble opinion, Marine Police. Last weekend they dispensed over 200 summonses during the Bastille Day fireworks. IF YOU DINGHY, FOLLOW THESE RULES OR YOU WILL GET A TICKET REQUIRING A PERSONAL APPEARANCE.
Keep speed under 5 knots – all vessels all times – in 3 Mile Harbor
Every person must have a PFD Type 1,2 or 3 available, and kids under 15 must have it ON incl. a dinghy. I suggest all occupants put one on so you won’t get stopped.
If you dinghy at night, you must have a position light in addition to PFD’s. You can buy one at West Marine that works with two C batteries and has a suction cup for your outboard top.TRUST ME ON THIS. I have several citations to prove it.
Remember, I am a lawyer, if you get cited, get in touch with me. They often screw it up.
DON’T SAY A WORD or they will make your life miserable. I know of a case where after informing a boater he was getting a warning, when they asked for the names of all the officers involved, since they were so disrespectful and unpleasant, the officer changed the warning to a summons. They have nothing else to do in East Hampton except make life miserable for us tourists.WAVEMAKER
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi,
With the XBM and all systems off, there should be about .1 amp/battery bank draw from the system itself. I have the new link 2000, but put the XBM in my Ericson.
Bob
On Fri, Jul 18, 2008 at 12:56 PM, sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hey Guys
I am still finishing up work on the boat. I installed the xbm battery monitor for the house bank, I'm using the old analog volt meters for the start and the windlass battery. I haven't yet syncronized the monitor but I noticed that I had a -1.5 amp draw on the xbm with everything turned off other than the bilge pump float switch. The switch is a water witch. I got on of those because with the old tank looking like it could spring a leak at any time I wanted to only pump water not diesel. I didn't have time to pull the fuse to see if that was the draw. What is the normal reading for a boat not connected to shore power and with all the systems turned off? I would think that it would be close to zero if not zero.
Linus
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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Someone from Sweden have just purchased Veritas, as well.
On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 4:40 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
We have heard several new Pearson Owners this month.
Along with Sean & Margaret who purchased Jubilee (#215), we have received notice today that Julie and Larry have purchased Miss Kathleen (#57)
– pat
Doris E #178On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 2:36 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Not sure I saw this come across the list but Jubilee sold:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f47/we-did-17007.html-p
—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
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One more question: Are there pumpout facilities there? And what, if anything, do they cost?
Bob
On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 6:50 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Ok, I'm coming with Paul Lefebvre (sp?) and his girlfriend.Bob
On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 9:47 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Alan
My cell is 603-493-3330. Call if you need a bunk.—
Rich Carter
Original message
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