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Ok, I'm coming with Paul Lefebvre (sp?) and his girlfriend.
Bob
On Thu, Jul 10, 2008 at 9:47 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Alan
My cell is 603-493-3330. Call if you need a bunk.—
Rich Carter
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Dacron and whatever the spinnaker is made out of.
On Tue, Jul 8, 2008 at 1:06 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:What kind of fabric?-p
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Hi Patrick,
I'm having a full suit of sails being made just now. I hope to have some of them by the meetup, but for a new mizzen, main, 140% genoa, staysail and 175% asymmetrical it's costing me 6,000 or so. The main and mizzen are full battened, with three and 2 reef points respectively. Also, I'm getting new sail covers in the price. I hope to be able to show them off and give my friend some more work. Somerset Sails (http://www.somersetsails.com). Talk to Martin. He did all my sails on my last boat (Ericson 34) and I was happy as hell with them.
Bob
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 7:55 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was looking on the web site and the forum and there’s no FAQ on who made your sails and if you’re happy with them. I was going to send out an email asking that but I figured it was better in the form of a survey.
http://www.surveygizmo.com/s/55477/pearson-424-sail-inventory
If you don’t mind filling it out, it would help all of us newbies out a lot! I’ll send out the results and put them in a format Pat can post to the web site too.
The basic format is for each common kind of sail (Main, Working Jib, Mizzen, Staysail, Mizzen Staysail, Spinnaker) Who Made, Out of What, When Did you Get it, Comments. If there’s something about that sail I didn’t ask you (like battens for instance) then put it in the comments I’ll pull all that out later.Thanks in advance or feel free to tell me this is annoying. J
-p
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick's Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi All,
In the event we do need to land, I have a 10.5' inflatable that can hold 1600 pounds. Or so it says. That's 10-160 lb sailors, or 8 of me. Since I'm only one of me, that leaves 6 or 7 others. A few dinks of that nature could do the job. I suppose I'll have to see if my engine runs…
Bob
On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 5:34 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thatcher:Agree that dinks landing at Maidstone MArina could be tricky. I will check and see what I can arrange with Dockmaster. If you would check with EHP and see if they might allow any to land at their Dink dock that would be great. Please let me know.
Thanks!Rodd
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Hi John and Quent,
It is, indeed, a 71C or 72C (I still haven't found the plate). Chevy Powerglide? That was a two speed tranny. I had one on my 68 Impala. It was a total misnomer. It wasn't power anything. It was the definition of 'slush box'. But I digress.
Anyway, the point of this whole discussion is that the all Velvet Drives can freewheel. That's of huge importance to me because I plan to use the shaft power for an alternator. I've discovered that the transmission output shaft runs at about 100 rpm/knot, so that at 5 knots it's running 500 rpm. That means a 3:1 pulley system will handily turn an alternator at 1500 rpm, comfortably above the 1200 rpm or so it needs to start generating power. The output shaft runs a little slower, but would be more powerful.
So, this is do-able with some clever engineering including those new link-type belts.
Stay tuned!
Bob
On Sun, Jul 6, 2008 at 6:26 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Bob-
Depends on if you have a W-60, or the later W-58. Westerbeke told me that Pearson specified Warner Velvet Drive 71c trans on all W-58 engines.
This is still available new or rebuilt and is based on the old Chevy Powerglide. Here is a link that I've found useful for both the trans and the Walter V-drive:
http://www.marinegears.com/catalog/cat.html
Ask for Mark.
Quent—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hey! let me know where you are! Maybe we can arrive or sail the Gut together! 845 596 4641
Bob
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 10:55 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I'm leaving on the 18th. I'll take my time gunk-holing my way down the coast to LI. Depending on the weather, I might get there a day or two early. If anyone else gets there early, please keep an eye out for me. I probably won't have my radio on, but my cell always works.—
Rich Carter 603-493-3330
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I'll probably either be there Friday morning (if I leave Thursday night) or Friday night if I leave Friday morning – I have to check the tides and see what's best. It's a 13-14 hour trip for me.
Anyway, I think flexibility is the key – the fact of the matter is that we may not like each other that much. Or, we may find there are several groups with like interests in food or partying. I have absolutely no problem with rafting and having a great big party (pot luck, of course). However, that said, I'm down with anything anyone wants to do as long as it doesn't involve bodily harm.
Bob
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Hi Rich,
They also installed Hurth (can be left in reverse or freewheel when sailing) and Paragon (Maybe, maybe not can freewheel), and the Borg-Warner Velvet Drive which can freewheel in neutral. The Paragon might be a replacement tranny.
Bob
On Thu, Jul 3, 2008 at 6:18 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
To my knowledge, Pearson installed Borg Warner Velvet-Drive transmissions on all 424's, though they may have put something else in the first couple of production boats. Copy down the information on the manufacturers plate and send it out to us along with a photo of the transmission. If you have trouble reading the plate, rub it with a dry-rease marker and polish it slightly with paper towel to reveal the stamped information.—
Rich Carter
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Hi Phil,
For SOLAS approved lifelines, as for races like the Newport-Bermuda race, no coating at all is allowed because the line can corrode much farther up the coating and fail.
I'll be replacing mine without the coating – even though it will catch the hair on my arms, legs, and chest. Sorry for being gross, but you need to know the downside.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 6:05 PM, Philippe Fontaine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Perhaps some of you might profit from a recent experience of mine.
On a fairly windy day, while rolling up the jib, a flailing jib sheet broke one of my lifelines at the connection to a gate eye. Inspection of the broken wire revealed that all the strands were badly corroded. My boat is a 1980 (built in 1979) and I believe the lifelines were the original ones.Needless to say the lifelines have now been replaced. The new ones have about a half inch of bare wire at every fitting so that the joint doesn't trap water and can be inspected.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora – Ketch #94—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Well, they do have a phone and they do have email. They don't use them for incoming communications. They're really not that organized, I don't think. Also, RigRite has been in business since the '60's or so and their way of doing business isn't the modern way, as you could so readily surmise.
But – and it's a big one – they have stuff no one else has. And if you want to deal with them, you just play the game. If not, break out the resin, hardener and thickener and go to town!
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:No phone, no email? That is not a company I care to do business with.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
You won't get a call back. Fax your needs. It's the only way they communicate. They've been that way since the '80's.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:22 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Worth a try, for sure, John. So I just tried calling Rig Rite and I already don't like them. They employ one of those endless recording systems that asks you to select option 1, 2, 3 or 4, and then dumps you into another recording with 6 more choices, ad nauseam. I never did get to speak to a human being. In the end, I left a call-back voicemail message, but won't hold my breath waiting for a return call. Incredibly, they don't offer the option of emailing them – there is no email address on their web site that I could find – but they do invite you to fax them! Wow, someone who actually still uses a fax machine to conduct business. How '80's.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
That's a perfect idea. I have access to a band saw and would cut it out of a block, but your method will work marvelously. In my case, I'd end up with resin all over the mast, sail, sail cover, deck, mast pulpits, wood work, cabin sole, engine, wheel, binnacle, and probably wind sensor. As well as myself. I avoid fiberglass work whenever possible – even to the extent of just carving something out with chisels and drawknife or rocks and sticks.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hey Bob,I agree Starboard is well suited to this sort of application, but I don't want to pay a “pro” to make this thing for hundreds of dollars, and I'll be darned if I'd know how to get the exact mast curvature into one side of a Starboard block. Even if I scribed the curve onto the 'board's edge and managed to gain access to a band saw – not likely where I am – it'd be a very tricky cut to execute perfectly. Or maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than it really is.
My thought is to tape wax paper around the mast, tape an 8 or 10″ square piece of fiberglass cloth flat over that at the place I'll be mounting the winch, and apply resin to the cloth. When it hardens I'll have the exact curve. From there it's relatively quick & easy to build up the >1″ thickness I need with epoxy resin & mat, finish the outward side flat with resin & 404 filler, trim the whole to the 6″ diameter pad I need, and drill three mounting holes to match the winch base. A couple of coats of UV paint should help it live way longer than I'm likely to. Like I said, kind of a fun little project, but another project nonetheless, which I don't really need just now.
Anyway, that's the best I've come up with. Am wide open to better ideas! Meanwhile, I will check with Sailor's Exchange to see if they just happen to have a pad that fits.
Thanks,
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
Just 2 cents, but I'd use HDPE which is the generic name for 'Starboard' and is pretty cheap. It's easily machined, never cracks, chips, peels, splits, checks or powders. You could do the whole thing with a bandsaw. Also, it's non-conductive.
Bob
On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 7:00 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, John. I like your last suggestion best. We have Sailor's Exchange in nearby St. Augustine, FL. In fact, that's where I found this wire winch. Wish I'd thought to check for mounting pads at the same time.I was hoping someone in our 424 group had been through this and could say, oh, call so-and-so, they have the mold or they have a generic part that works. Barring that (or getting lucky at the used boat gear place), maybe I'll have to fabricate my own part after all. I'm pretty sure I've figured out a fairly easy way to do it and it would be kind of fun.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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This problem is easily taken care of by shutting off the water when leaving the boat. I've installed in two boats with the water on continuously for weeks at a time with no leakage in the boat. On one, the hose burst because, apparently, you're not supposed to leave them pressurized out in the sun. Who knew?
A properly installed system is as likely to leak as a through hull… Probably less as the water is fresh and doesn't conduct electricity all that well so corrosion is not an issue.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 11:09 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I gotta admit I would like to use shore water pressure, especially right now when I started to take a shower and discovered my tank just went dry. Gotta run the hose from the dock to the deck open deck plates, then monitor the water level in each tank until full.
The only thing that keeps me from implementing the shore water system is my experience in Florida a few years ago. My neighbor's AC was cycling on and off every 30 seconds with the stream of water coming out of the thru-hull. It was pretty noisy. When my neighbor showed up and went aboard I asked if he planned to run his noisy AC all night. He replied, “????? – I ain't got no Air Conditioner!”
Well he did have a very powerful bilge pump and a really clean bilge.John
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 1:28 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.
Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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