[madsailor]

Hi Dawn,

There's a Jabsco variable speed pump that's absolutely perfect for you – I replaced mine with it and it's so quiet you can't hear it unless you've got all the faucets open.

I'll see if I can find the part number. But West Marine has them.

Bob

On Wed, Jun 18, 2008 at 6:42 PM, Dawn Rodney < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi all,
I am new to the list. My name is Dawn and I am Patrick Walter's girlfriend. We own S/V Deep Playa.
We are in the midst of searching for a water pump to replace the old one on Deep Playa. The old one is sooooo extremely noisey that I get embarrassed when I turn on the water and feel bad for our neighbors on the dock. Can anyone recommend a particularly quiet pump that they have personally used?
Thanks
Dawn
S/V Deep Playa
Pearson 424

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Rick,

Good to know – mine is 'in progress' – the monitor is mounted and the holding tank is taped. Wiring and sensors for other tanks coming real soon now.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 7:29 PM, Rick Dugger < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I installed the 1-8 tank SCAD monitor this winter with sensors on 2 of the 3 water tanks. I liked the potential to add fuel, waste and propane at a later date. Installation was not bad. Instructions were very precise and clear. So far it works as advertised.

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 6:14 PM, svtopaz < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I found a kink in the overflow loop. I replaced it but have not check to see if it makes a diference. I am going to put new o-rings in. I would love to have the stainless plates but it is to much $$$. Same with the gauges. The hose I replaced was very dirty and very old. Some one also told me about a fitting I can put on my hose to keep the pressure at a certain level. Think I will look into that also.

Barbara

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

The absolute simplest way is to make sure the inspection plates are water tight and the vents loop into the bilge several inches below the deck. Then you fill the tanks until they overflow and presto- no more worries. That's what I do.

I'm also installing the SCADtech monitors, but it's taking longer than I expected because other stuff comes up.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 7:04 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

One of the recurring threads of this topic is the difficulty in determining the tank level when filling. If you can't determine level, it is easy to overfill. I've looked for a reasonably priced level gauge for the water tanks and have yet to find anything. If you are in the process of replacing the access plates, now would be a good time to consider adding a gauge. If anyone comes across a good solution, please let me know.
—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

What year is your W58?

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:53 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I rewired my engine last winter. No electric fuel
pump.

ap

— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I'll take a picture tonight and send it along.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:32 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump. I

know

I don't (w58). I have one purchased but not

installed

(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some

engines

(maybe even ours) they're
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to

the

fact they're in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other

metals

corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force
will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires more
torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak

the

nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the

inch-lb

range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason

those

tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least

expensive

part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the

injectors or

fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump

it

should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector

lines.

Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines.

Sometimes it

requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I haven't
looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn't
working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won't be able to prime it
properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for a

bit

until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops or

slows

considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it usually
starts. It'll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps,

in

this, I'm amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these

engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion

of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated

opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the

case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail:

()

For additional commands, e-mail:

()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail:

()

For additional commands, e-mail:

()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

I'll take a picture tonight and send it along.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:32 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump. I know
I don't (w58). I have one purchased but not installed
(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some engines
(maybe even ours) they're
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to the
fact they're in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other metals
corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force
will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires more
torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak the
nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the inch-lb
range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason those
tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least expensive
part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the injectors or
fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump it
should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector lines.
Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines. Sometimes it
requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I haven't
looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn't
working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won't be able to prime it
properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for a bit
until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops or slows
considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it usually
starts. It'll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps, in
this, I'm amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail:

()

For additional commands, e-mail:

()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

You should have one on your W58. On the starboard side of the engine there should be a vertically mounted round thing about the size of a tomato paste can midway fore and aft. The fuel hose from the Racor, if you have one should run to it. Or maybe from the primary filter – I'll have to look. It will have two wires to it and little known to me, at least, there's a filter in it.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:32 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump. I know
I don't (w58). I have one purchased but not installed
(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some engines
(maybe even ours) they're
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to the
fact they're in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other metals
corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force
will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires more
torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak the
nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the inch-lb
range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason those
tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least expensive
part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the injectors or
fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump it
should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector lines.
Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines. Sometimes it
requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I haven't
looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn't
working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won't be able to prime it
properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for a bit
until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops or slows
considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it usually
starts. It'll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps, in
this, I'm amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail:

()

For additional commands, e-mail:

()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

They do corrode if not cared for – in some engines (maybe even ours) they're aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to the fact they're in a damp area and in contact with a bazillion other metals corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force will maul the tubing surface resulting in a leak that requires more torque to seal, creating more leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak the nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the inch-lb range, not foot-lb. The sealing surface is very narrow. The reason those tubes are as soft as they are is so that they (ostensibly the least expensive part) are the ones to fail, not the expensive fittings on the injectors or fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump it should be an extraordinary circumstance to need to bleed the injector lines. Once the main injector pump is primed it will fill the lines. Sometimes it requires using the compression release (if we have one – I haven't looked) so you can spin the engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn't working, the engine may still run ok, but you won't be able to prime it properly. I know that when I change my filters, I let that pump run for a bit until it stops (you should hear clicking which eventually stops or slows considerably). Then I roll over the engine for a bit and it usually starts. It'll run rough for a few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps, in this, I'm amazingly lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these engines, why do the fuel injector lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion of the line or because they will no longer seal because of repeated opening and tightening to bleed the lines. If it is the latter, that makes the case for an external fuel pump pretty strong.

Paul

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

I'd say that's the best bet. Go to a place that actually repairs engines and you'll be good to go. Not only will the mechanics be used to dealing with 10,000 hour engines, they'll understand how to make them work without 'OEM' parts.

Let us know how it goes – I'd really expect a very good repair for a very fair price.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:27 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thats why I can't see buying these custom lines for 5
and 600 dollars.
There's a big over the road truck shop not to far from
here. I might wander down there and ask a few
questions. Better yet, a john deer tractor shop….
they do all kinds of tractors there…. framers are
cheap- like us…..

ap

— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Not really. Once the lines are full, there
shouldn't be a problem unless
they are WAY different in length.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:21 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:

Do people think that the lines need to be exact to
maintain some kind of timing with respect to the

pump

and injectors?
ap
— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

You're talking about 1500-3000 lbs pressure.
Surprising, huh? Linus, what
happened after 10 years?

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:08 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])>

wrote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set

of

fuel

lines by three different boat mechanics.

They

were

available at that time from Norshipco in

Norfolk,

VA. To the tune of $565 that of course

included

shipping. I could not believe that the

lines

had to

be so precise. I got in my car and started

driving

after four stops, three cities and about 200

miles I

walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side

of

the

highway. Outside there were logging

machines

and

old oily trucks. When I walked through the

door

I

saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls.

There

were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and

glass

cases full of injector pumps. The man in

the

white

lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it

came of

a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut

on

the

end of the line and it leaked. I told the

man

in

the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me

the

lines had to be the exact same and I needed

a

new

one. He called to an older man in back that

came

out in his white lab coat and took my line

in

back.

In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me

that

he

had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old

man

what

the others had told me and he said that if

it

didn't

work that he would give my $2.50 back for

the

repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and

the

price

will be significantly cheaper. By the way

that

Quote:

Quote:

$2.50

Quote:

Quote:

repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Not really. Once the lines are full, there shouldn't be a problem unless they are WAY different in length.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:21 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Do people think that the lines need to be exact to
maintain some kind of timing with respect to the pump
and injectors?
ap

— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

You're talking about 1500-3000 lbs pressure.
Surprising, huh? Linus, what
happened after 10 years?

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:08 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])>

wrote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set of

fuel

lines by three different boat mechanics. They

were

available at that time from Norshipco in

Norfolk,

VA. To the tune of $565 that of course included
shipping. I could not believe that the lines

had to

be so precise. I got in my car and started

driving

after four stops, three cities and about 200

miles I

walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side of

the

highway. Outside there were logging machines

and

old oily trucks. When I walked through the door

I

saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls.

There

were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and

glass

cases full of injector pumps. The man in the

white

lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it

came of

a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut on

the

end of the line and it leaked. I told the man

in

the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me the
lines had to be the exact same and I needed a

new

one. He called to an older man in back that

came

out in his white lab coat and took my line in

back.

In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me that

he

had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old man

what

the others had told me and he said that if it

didn't

work that he would give my $2.50 back for the
repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and the

price

will be significantly cheaper. By the way that

$2.50

Quote:

Quote:

repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

You're talking about 1500-3000 lbs pressure. Surprising, huh? Linus, what happened after 10 years?

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:08 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set of fuel
lines by three different boat mechanics. They were
available at that time from Norshipco in Norfolk,
VA. To the tune of $565 that of course included
shipping. I could not believe that the lines had to
be so precise. I got in my car and started driving
after four stops, three cities and about 200 miles I
walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side of the
highway. Outside there were logging machines and
old oily trucks. When I walked through the door I
saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls. There
were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and glass
cases full of injector pumps. The man in the white
lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it came of
a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut on the
end of the line and it leaked. I told the man in
the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me the
lines had to be the exact same and I needed a new
one. He called to an older man in back that came
out in his white lab coat and took my line in back.
In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me that he
had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old man what
the others had told me and he said that if it didn't
work that he would give my $2.50 back for the
repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and the price
will be significantly cheaper. By the way that $2.50
repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Bill,

You're looking for the injector tubing, right? Not just any fuel line?

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 12:51 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I had very good experience dealing with mesa hose making new hoses for the transmission oil lines. They were fast and pretty reasonably priced.

They also made me a very stainless steel braided line for the trans to shaft brake.

http://www.socalsail.com/bg/co/mesa-hose-and-supply/

I dunno if they have a better website than that.

I wouldn’t recommend ‘hose man’ who are much larger. They stunk 🙂

On 6/16/08 12:46 PM, Robert Fine wrote :

Hi Bill,

Do you need a full set? Or do you need one or the other repaired? I wonder if the part from a W58 would work as they're very nearly identical?

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 12:36 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I have searched the globe for Westerbeke 60 fuel lines with no luck. They are most certainly no longer available from the manufacturer. Does anyone have any ideas on sources for custom fuel line manufacturing resources?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks!
-Bill Emberley
Running Tab #86

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Bill,

Do you need a full set? Or do you need one or the other repaired? I wonder if the part from a W58 would work as they're very nearly identical?

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 12:36 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I have searched the globe for Westerbeke 60 fuel lines with no luck. They are most certainly no longer available from the manufacturer. Does anyone have any ideas on sources for custom fuel line manufacturing resources?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks!
-Bill Emberley
Running Tab #86

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Wow Alan!

That looks really marvelous! I'd love to do that with my box because I can't reach the bottom. I have the 'L' shaped galley.

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 6:55 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

My completed Refer Project pictures can now be viewed
in the 424 Photo Gallery.
Also pics of my new opening ports.
Alan
UNABATED

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Tor,

Then I'm getting out my Skil saw and doing the deed – I know there are water lines and so forth under there, but I can deal with that. I will finish it with teak.

Let me do the project and put pictures online.

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 6:18 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Hey Bob,

I cut a hatch in the sole beneath the galley sinks, too, for better access to the thru-hulls. Within the limits of the structural timbers beneath the sole, I don't see any reason not to create the access you want. Out in the “open” where it's always visible, you'll probably want to finish off the hatches to look as if they're original, but that'll be easily accomplished with a bit trim around the edges and a lift latch that looks like others in the boat. Underneath the galley sinks that stuff wasn't so important.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Quote:

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

I already have that for the sink drain and for the salt water inlet. I was thinking more along the lines of along side of the current openings to the port.

Bob

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[Author]

Posts