[madsailor]

Hi Peter,

That's an excellent idea – and far less expensive than a vented loop. I've been thinking pretty strenuously about whether to vent the loop or not, since the vent doesn't go appreciably into the tank, I'm not worried about siphoning in or out.

Bob

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 8:14 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Regarding the vent line, mine goes up a few feet above the tank and then loops back down draining into a larger diameter piece of tubing and then down into the bilge. The small tube draining to the larger tube creates a simple vacuum break to prevent siphoning and makes sure the overflow goes into the bilge. Also, since the drain loops so high, the tank will not drain when the boat is heeling steeply.
Pete

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Tor,

I didn't realize everyone had them – they were so shoddily installed that they leaked all around and through the o-ring. They were clear or smoked. The long and the short of it is that they're not designed for internal pressure and I'm surprised Pearson put them in.

I've had '78 boats with sealed water tanks. You can't scrub them, of course, but you can shock and clean them chemically.

I had no idea Pearson did that.

Bob

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 4:42 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I'm hoping the new O-rings in my Beckon Marine inspection ports will stand up to a topped-off water tank, but have not tested them yet. Is anyone out there able to overfill your boat's water tanks without the Beckson inspection port seals leaking, or are they universally inadequate?

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Quote:

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi All,

My tanks vented into a false bulkhead forward (just aft of the sink) in the v-berth area and in the hanging locker in the v-berth. Clearly, overfilling the tank would result in a lot of water going everywhere.

The inspection ports were clear plastic Beckson deckplates. They are not designed for internal pressure. Consequently, by overfilling, you cause the o-ring to leak. I replaced them with stainless steel access plates. You can read about it somewhere on my blog http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com. If anyone is interested, I'll find the link.

I've moved the vents to the bilge, but have come up with a better idea with a loop in the vent and drain to bilge – running the lines to the deep part so I don't fill up all the dips and bumps around the mast.

A better way would be to vent into a sink, but that's too difficult.

Bob

On Sun, Jun 15, 2008 at 11:30 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I had this same problem on my bow tank; the inspection port leaked. I had to replace the whole port as it has somehow warped and a new o-ring still did not make the seal.

Pete

Silver Heels wrote:

Quote:

Barbara,

I just ordered and installed a new set of O-rings for the inspection ports on my water tanks, since most
of them leaked when the tanks were filled to the top. My salon tanks have three inspection ports each,
but only one per tank is accessible through the slide-out plywood bunk extension piece. In other words,
when you lift the settee cushion you only see one access port, reached through holes cut in the plywood
covers. However, removing the slide-out plywood pieces covering the salon tanks (underneath the settee
cushions) reveals two more inspection ports per tank, one for each baffled compartment of the tank. If
your boat also has these check them for leaks around the screw-out center piece. If they're leaking,
replace the O-rings on all the ports on all tanks.

My inspection ports were all made by Beckson Marine, http://www.beckson.com . I think they call them “deck
plates.” Beckson was quick and reasonably priced about sending new O-rings. To order by phone, call Cindy
at 203-333-1412 to order.

Good luck,

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

I got mine special order from Defenders for an ungodly sum of 460 each. Aluminum.

Bob

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:51 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Rich,

The portholes I bought through West Marine (which are polished/brushed aluminum, not stainless) came
<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Paul,

I've never done this with a 424, but I've added several more poppets on each side and then walked around the boat turning each 1/2 turn until it's as high as I want (or a little more) and then blocking the keel, and lowering to final height the same way.

It takes a long time but it's good exercise.

That said, I'd expect the skeg to be more than strong enough to raise the aft end. You'll certainly know almost immediately…

Bob

On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:18 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

My boat is on a boat cradle. The whole keel is sitting flat on a support piece. I want to remove the support from under the aft end (whole hollow section ) of the keel. I have support pads under the bulkhead between the galley and aft cabin and under the bulkhead just aft of the engine.

In order to relieve some of the weight on the aft section, I was thinking of using a 20 ton bottle jack under the skeg. This appears to be the strongest area back there, but I would like to know what others think and has anyone jacked up the boat at all back there. As I take some of the weight on the skeg, I will be raising the 4 aft support pads to also take some of the weight. Is here a concern with damaging the rudder post while attempting this or is this skeg strong enough??

Plan B is to hire a 35 ton crane to raise the boat an inch and one half. This will cost $630 due to the 4 hour minimum.

Thanks,

Paul
Boundless #28

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Rich and Lee,

The 422 is, indeed, the same hull. There were 39 of them made and they command much higher prices than the 424. I think they were all cored hulls, but am not sure. I know the two I looked at were.

They're a nice center cockpit boat.

Bob

On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:51 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Lee
The 422 and 424 are very similar with respect to the hull and machinery. I think the hulls come from the same mold. If anyone could confirm, I would appreciate it. I would think that experiences from the 422 group would be of interest to us and vice-verse. I would welcome their input and hope the rest of the group feels the same.

—
Rich Carter

---

Original message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Rich,

I notice you have a shaft brake disk, but the rest of it is missing. It looks like you have the same transmission I have – the Paragon one. My manual says it's ok to let it rotate except in reverse.

Is it just the device is off for whatever you're doing, or do you let it rotate as well?

Bob

On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:48 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I installed a 12V pump when I had my old W60. It can be seen to the left of the transmission in the attached photo. It is after the Racor and before the lift pump. It runs off the key switch. If the electric pump fails, it will not interfere with operation of the manual pump. I purchased it at the local auto parts store for about $30. I can't quite read the part number from the photo. As I remember, there are two generic pumps like this. One pumps more fuel than the other. I don't remember which I purchased. The pump is in my spare parts bin. If I think of it, I'll send out the part number.

—
Rich Carter

---

Original message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Bill,

I had a great sail on Long Island Sound yesterday morning, too – probably not as boisterous as SF Bay, but still nice. Then it got really hot and windless.

I think I mentioned a parts dealer in one of my other posts for Westerbeke parts. I'm sure you can get new ones. Let me see if I can find it again. But the W58 is a Mazda industrial engine, so if we can figure out which one, we'd be good to go.

On fuel pipe compression fittings:

Two things happen to make them fail. They are used as bleed points (which is usually unnecessary) and they are tightened too much. They're actually pretty delicate and require something in the range of inch-pounds of torque. It's the sealing surface that makes the connection.

Anyway, if you can't find them new (and I'm sure Westerbeke sells them), a competent diesel mechanic can make new ones.

Bob

On Sun, Jun 8, 2008 at 6:09 PM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Bob,
Your email prompted me to do a thorough check for
leaks then a system bleed. Discovery- #3 fuel pipe
compression fitting at the injector gave up the ghost
and is at least one of the air leaks. I had the #1
fuel line go out a few years back and had a repair job
done that has held to this day. In any case I think
it is time to replace all.
Any ideas on where I could get a new set? My local
source said it would be difficult to find, and costly.
I just want to eliminate any potential air leak
problems.
Had an great sail today on San Francisco Bay. Warm
and sunny. Winds SW at 25-30. Just right for the 424.
-Bill

— Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Bill,

It sounds as if you have an air leak in the system
that the normal flow at
speed will cover. Not a big one. Find that first.

If there's an air leak in the fuel system, all
installing a pump will do is
make the system leak positively. Sure, the engine
will idle, but you'll
also be putting fuel in the bilge.

There is already a booster pump on the engine. You
could use another one on
the fuel tank where the cut-off solenoid is, if it's
still there. If not,
there are already wires for a pump or whatever that
is turned on with the
ignition.

Bob

On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Bill Emberley
< ([email][/email])>
wrote:

I have had random engine failures when idling for

long

period of time on my old Westerbeke. After a

bleeding

session the engine runs fine. I am considering
installing an in-line 12v fuel pump to increase

fuel

flow.
Questions
1. Any recommendations on a Pump.
2. Do you install it before or after the Racor
filters?
3. Is it wired to activate with the ignition

switch?

Thanks for any ideas you old salts may have.

Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail:

()

For additional commands, e-mail:

()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Edit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501

Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Bill,

It sounds as if you have an air leak in the system that the normal flow at speed will cover. Not a big one. Find that first.

If there's an air leak in the fuel system, all installing a pump will do is make the system leak positively. Sure, the engine will idle, but you'll also be putting fuel in the bilge.

There is already a booster pump on the engine. You could use another one on the fuel tank where the cut-off solenoid is, if it's still there. If not, there are already wires for a pump or whatever that is turned on with the ignition.

Bob

On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:44 AM, Bill Emberley < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I have had random engine failures when idling for long
period of time on my old Westerbeke. After a bleeding
session the engine runs fine. I am considering
installing an in-line 12v fuel pump to increase fuel
flow.
Questions
1. Any recommendations on a Pump.
2. Do you install it before or after the Racor
filters?
3. Is it wired to activate with the ignition switch?

Thanks for any ideas you old salts may have.

Bill Emberley
Running Tab
P424 #86

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Tor,

I plan to do all the non-skid, cabin top, side decks, cockpit, etc. Maybe the mast. Just kidding there…

Bob

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 8:10 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Bob,

How much of your decks are you planning to paint with KiwiGrip?

I should be getting mine in a week or so, and expect to be applying it shortly thereafter. Will let you know how it goes. My only concern is the hot weather down here, which I gather can start the paint curing very quickly.

Tor

---

Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us

---

Quote:

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

I've decided to go with the KiwiGrip. It's easy, non toxic, and inexpensive (Inexpensive? On a boat? How dare I?)

The projects they show look really good, and it will hide all my sins.

Bob

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 11:37 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Looks interesting. If you find anything out, please keep us informed.

I painted my side-decks and cockpit with 2-part polyurethane with nonskid added a few years ago and found the deck to be so slippery that it was dangerous. I painted over it with West Marine 1-part polyurethane non-skid paint. It has good adhesion and makes a good nonslip surface but I don't like the texture. It clumps when you apply it. I'm looking for a better coating for the top deck. I've decided to put a teak deck down in the cockpit, but I don't want to put it down elsewhere.

—
Rich Carter

---

Original message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Guys,

I've been having this discussion with a dockmate with a W52. I have the W58.

The engine gets to operating temperature. The water heater is some brand. It's white. And round. And it used to work – nothing's changed to stop that.

The engine runs at 190 deg. F. and can, if pushed at full rpm get to 200+. The water gets luke warm. The electric part works fine.

The hoses are full, the expansion tank is full. I do notice there's a brass flow diverter spring in the housing that if failed would essentially bypass the water heater.

It seems a likely problem. I'm just wondering if anyone else has seen this.

Bob

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 12:54 PM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Bob, are you trying to warm up the water at the dock at idle? A diesel won't generally heat up when not under load. Until it does the thermostat will remain closed.

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 11:25 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi All,

My hot water heater doesn't work that well with the engine. Have any of you needed to replace the spring flow controller? The hoses are full, and so is the big tank.

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Paul,

I don't know, but you can get nice ones here:

http://www.marinepartdepot.com/new316ststcl2.html

Also, ABI Marine probably has them, too – the advantage to the first is that the chocks are straight through not at an angle requiring much gnashing of teeth to get big lines through.

Bob

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 9:23 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Does anybody know who made our original bow chocks and if they are still avaiable. I have a broken one I would like to replace.

Thanks,

Paul
Boundless #28

---

To unsubscribe, e-mail: ()
For additional commands, e-mail: ()

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hi Tor,

It's unknown. I'd have to remove it to find out. There are no markings.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 8:34 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

Hey Bob,

What brand/model is your 48 x 24 panel?

Tor

---

Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us

---

Quote:

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[madsailor]

Hey! How about this link? http://www.engnetglobal.com/c/c.aspx/PAR017/productdetail/PAR017_mazda

I'm going to call them to see if they can help identify the engine.

BOb

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 8:24 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Quote:

I always knew this engine as a Mazda 4-154 (4 cyl., 154 cu in.) I have not, however, tried to order parts from Mazda. I would love to be able to if we can figure out exactly which engine Mazda calls it!!

Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
1983 Cutter

Quote:

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[Author]

Posts