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Pat-
The problem with cleaning out the cooling passage is that if you are too agressive,you will cause leaks between the cooling passage and the gear case. Water in there means the v-drive is toast. Walter suggets a thin layer of Marine-tex to seal the cooling passage after cleaning. There are several long discussions about alternative cooling schemes but the best solution is either a new v-drive, or a new gercase. RV-20 gear cases are out of production, and hard to find.
QuentPaul-
With a little surgery, we managed to get a 45 gallon rigid plastic holding tank into that space. A flexible tank might work as well or better.
While we still have the original fuel tank, we also added two saddle tanks of about 17 gallons each in cockpit lazarrettes.
QuentAlan-
The fuel injectors for the W-58 also fit the W-100, maybe other Westerbekes. Several W dealer websites have the Part List numbers for these engines to compare. Injectors, new and used , occasionally show up on EBay and other sites.
Racor makes an alarm kit for their filters that detects water.
Apparently it doesn’t take much water to explode injector tips. You’re lucky that the fuel injection pump survived.
QuentHi Rudy-
I second Tor’s advice, esp.if your W-58 is a good running engine. I bought the one on cinder blocks for $400, thinking just a few parts was worth that much. Turns out it is a good low hours engine with a fixable overheat problem. I’m slowly rebuilding it in the garage.
Plenty of threads on replacing the fuel tank. First step use a magnet to determine if you have steel or aluminum. Next, measure to see if the tank will clear the mizzen support beam.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Hey Adam-
Keep an eye out for my friend Russ Ward, Tayana 48 also “Windward” out of Annapolis, headed south somewhere near you.
Have a great sail, watch out for Ida.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Tor-
Our 4 person Viking is just forward and starboard of where John mounted his, in placeof the companionway hood. We had the space because we replaced the slider with a hatch.
One thing you might want to consider is if you have a self deploying raft you want it to clear the rigging when it breaks away from the boat.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132I’ve seen one of those whale movies on Nature channel. You would have a very sticky situation in the cockpit.
QA friend with a black bottom on his boat ask me that. I told him any color but black, whales try to mate with black hulled sailboats. I thought he knew I was joking, but he changed the color.
QuentLinus-
We have a 12V, 1/2 hp Grunert on Clairebuoyant. We are happy with it. It runs on R-12, slightly more efficient than R-134a but not so green.
Did you actually break the tubing, meaning the refrigerant leaked out, or simply kink the tubing stopping the flow? A system that has been open to the atmosphere is going to take some work to get right again. In this case I’d take Rich’s advice, convert to R-134a, or other environmentally frendly chemical with better compatibility, install a return line filter receiver very important to avoid contamination and compressor failure.
If the R-12 is still in there, agreed unlikely, maybe you can pump down the unit, trapping the refrigerant in the compressor/ receiver assembly then fix the copper tubing.
These systems were built before anyone had battery banks large enough to support 40 amp dc power drains. They have a relay that enabled them to run only if a charging source was available. The Grunert specifics are probably on the Internet.
If you are like us, you have the compressor shown as an example in Caulder’s book, kind of oval looking from the top, as opposed to square or cylindrical. This is a great industrial unit. I wouldn’t be too quick to replace it.
QuentHi Rich-
I think that you are right that the stemhead fitting is too close to the furler to fit a Solent stay, at least for our Harken #2 furler, It is also putting a lot of faith in some old stainless steel.
We found that the base for a Hyfield lever assembly would just fit aft of the stemhead. Using fiberglass laminate, we built a backing plate extending across both hull flanges and about an inch thick. I’m confident that this base is at least as strong as the mast tang. The hull/deck is very strong at this location.
I like your idea of a two piece stay. The stay banging on the spreader is annoying at best.
QuentTor-
I agree with that. I also agree that it depends on how we use the boat., and how we will use it in the future.
Not many boat bucks available right now, so plenty of time to study it.
Quent
