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Really nice article Pete! I’m curious, did you keep track of your expenses? If so, what was the tally?
Did you replace the v-drive, shaft, or prop at the same time?
Rich
Bill
I’m not sure where you got $20k to repower including installation. That sounds like a deal to me, but I suppose it could be that low if the quote only includes an engine-swap and they plan on replacing nothing else. I paid more than that just for my engine, v-drive, new prop, and related parts. I did all the labor. Once you start something like this its hard to stop. One thing leads to another and before you know it you’ve replaced everything. Small things add-up, hoses, fasteners, cables, etc. Here’s a link to the total cost at the bottom of this page in excel format. You can prune the list according to your plans.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Seatrial.htmlI found the link to the 40hp engine. If the boat was a total loss, did water get into the crankshaft? If so, did they get it out of the boat and pickle it in time?
I wouldn’t want to spend a pile of money and time repowering only to be disappointed with the results. I think you’ll find 40hp to be less than satisfactory. For most of us, $20k is a painful expense so I can understand how you might be tempted to cut corners. I find that I motor at least 75% of the time when cruising up and down the New England coast. The wind always seems to either be light or from the wrong direction. I just plan it that way. Your cruising area is known for high winds. If you want to be able to motor into a headwind at reasonable speed, I think you’ll be happier with something close to what you had before.
Rich
Chuck,
I have a 75hp Yanmar. I never use 75hp but having the extra power doesn’t
hurt. I can back-off on the throttle to where the engine is just limping
along at what feels like a slow cruising speed. The boat will be doing
7.3kts. The engine is purring along at about 2500 RPm vs 3800 rmp for
full-throttle. At this throttle setting, the engine is pretty quiet. With
a good alignment, there is almost no vibration.The alternator uses about 6hp at full charge rate and the engine-driven
regrigeration loads another 6hp when the reefer gets cold. These usually
happen at opposite ends of a cruise period so I can usually figure a max 6hp
load from the accessories but its still 12 hp worst-case. Accessory loads
should be considered when sizing the engine. That’s why I went up a size.
Given that the cost of the engine can be less than half the cost of a
repower I see no reason to skimp there.I had a W60 previously. I don’t think that thing was really 53hp. I’d
guess it was really about 45hp. 75hp is probably overkill, but I wouldn’t
recommend anything smaller than 60hp.Hope this helps
Regards RichQuote:
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Pete
Nice posting. I need to do something about my decks this spring so I’m looking forward to whatever advice you might have. I’ve painted the side-decks and cockpit several times over the years and have had poor success with everything I’ve tried. The 2-part polyurethane paint is too slippery even with nonskid powder mixed in. I put a one-part nonskid paint on the side-decks. It provides excellent traction but its way too aggressive. The nonskid holds dirt. I plan to try something on the cockpit this spring to see if I can get a better nonskid finish. If that works I might do the rest of the boat next year. I’m looking for a coating that doesn’t hold dirt but is safe to walk on in bare feet. So far the coachroof is original. The gelcoat is worn and holds dirt.We’ve painted the topsides twice over the many years I’ve owned BlackSheep. We’ve used interlux 2-part topside paint. We get brush-strokes but if its applied carefully you can’t see them unless you look very closely. After applying a coat, the finish is too slippery for dirt to adhere. Cleaning the topsides is easy, just wipe it down with a detergent cleaner and rinse. After about 7 years or so the finish loses its gloss and holds dirt so its time to repaint. My wife and I can repaint the topsides in about three days. I find it easier than compounding and waxing.
Regards
Rich
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When I had my W60, I checked the price on a new injector pump. At that time, it was several thousand. I don’t remember exactly how much, but I think it was about $4k from Hanson. Instead, I sent mine out to Boston Fuel Injection to have it rebuilt. The engine never ran well after the rebuild. This was one of the major reasons I repowered. If you can find a replacement pump for a few hundred, its a steal.
Rich
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Tor
The link is to a 35V panel. How did you wire it up?I’m shopping for a solar panel in the next few weeks, but I want something that’s for a 12v system. If anyone comes across any good deals, please let me know.
Rich
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I bought a pair of TACO LUMA LED deck lights. They may not be as fancy or
as powerful as some of the other units but they were affordable ($60 ea) and
look like they will servie my purpose. I measured less than 200ma at
13.8vdc. This compares with about 5A each for the old spotlights.Regards
RichQuote:
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Cada
I have the pump and would be happy to send it to you. It’s a Henderson.
The rubber boot is broken. I think the rest of the pump is fine. I don’t
have the handle though.Let me know if you want it.
Rich
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You folks must have more time than me. The two bow cleats are working cleats and I just leave them be. They are annodized aluminum. Though tarnished, they look OK. A local marine store had a barrel of them at one point for short money each. I think the manufacturer went out of business. Wish I had bought spares.
The rest of the cleats on my boat get a coat of rustoleum every couple of years. It doesn’t hold up well but its cheap and goes on with one coat. They’re working cleats too. If the paint gets worn or chipped, I don’t worry about it.
Regards
Rich
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Cada
I think I have one. Yours for the cost of shipping. Contact me if you want it.Rich
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Good advice. Diesels don’t like to run cold. All kinds of problems can be caused by running them cold.
From http://soundmarinediesel.com/q_and_a.html#engineidling
# The engine is run at below operating temp, leading to carbon accumulation in the combustion chamber, injector tips, piston rings, piston crown, valves heads, seats, and stems, exhaust manifold, turbocharger, etc. Carbon on these parts will lead to accelerated wear, and possible piston ring sticking and low engine compression.
# Also, the injected fuel gets past the piston rings, because the engine is not at the correct temperature, and dilutes the lube oil. This compromised oil is sent to ALL the engine bearings, where it increases bearing wear.Regards
Rich
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Try this link. Don’t forget to double the cable length because you have two wires, plus and minus. If you assume a 10′ length from the battery selector switch to the breaker panel, this computes that the voltage drop at 25A will be about .3v for 8-AWG wire. This should be OK at that load. If you have high starting current for your compressor, you can use a bigger cable or put a large electrolytic capacitor behind your panel. Something like 50,000uf might work depending on the compressor. You might find something like this at a dump inside an old piece of junk electronics. The cap would get wired to the + and – bus-bars on your panel. Observe the polarity marking on the cap when wiring it up. The cap should be rated for at least 20v.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
I have the original 8AWG cables to the panel. The only large load I have is the elecra-san treatment system. Its about 60A when running. My panel voltage drops down to below 11v sometimes when running it, but everything works.
Regards
Rich
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Walter,
Interesting recommendation for Captain John’s Soy Stripper. Kind of expensive however. I’ve used Citristrip another non-toxic stripper, available from local suppliers. I don’t know if it works as well but I’ve had success.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3340833&CAWELAID=252342920The first few 424s have a dark brown interior finish. I think they may have originally been light but ambered over time. They’re pretty dark below. The interior finish on my boat and most of the fleet is lighter in color. I’ve matched it by using a coat of cetol followed by one or two coats of epifanes. Minwax makes a rub-on urethane that works well for maintenance. Several owners have painted their bulk-heads to lighten the interior. I don’t have the heart to do that. You can’t buy teak interiors anymore. Painting over the veneer seems sinful.
After stripping the finish, I’ve had some success cleaning the teak by using a 2-part teak cleaner. I’ve found that Snappy-Teak-New works pretty well. I think the solution is stronger than most 2-part cleaners. I get it at a local marine store.
http://www.snappyteak.com/
A very light sanding might be needed but of course be careful. The cabin sole is the most difficult surface to restore. I recovered most of my sole with real teak and holly strips. I can sand the recovered areas if they get dinged or soiled. You can’t really do that with veneer.Hope this helps.
Regards
Rich
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Walter,
Interesting recommendation for Captain John’s Soy Stripper. Kind of expensive however. I’ve used Citristrip another non-toxic stripper, available from local suppliers. I don’t know if it works as well but I’ve had success.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3340833&CAWELAID=252342920The first few 424s have a dark brown interior finish. I think they may have originally been light but ambered over time. They’re pretty dark below. The interior finish on my boat and most of the fleet is lighter in color. I’ve matched it by using a coat of cetol followed by one or two coats of epifanes. Minwax makes a rub-on urethane that works well for maintenance. Several owners have painted their bulk-heads to lighten the interior. I don’t have the heart to do that. You can’t buy teak interiors anymore. Painting over the veneer seems sinful.
After stripping the finish, I’ve had some success cleaning the teak by using a 2-part teak cleaner. I’ve found that Snappy-Teak-New works pretty well. I think the solution is stronger than most 2-part cleaners. I get it at a local marine store.
http://www.snappyteak.com/
A very light sanding might be needed but of course be careful. The cabin sole is the most difficult surface to restore. I recovered most of my sole with real teak and holly strips. I can sand the recovered areas if they get dinged or soiled. You can’t really do that with veneer.Hope this helps.
Regards
Rich
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Walter,
My experience is a bit different from yours. I’ve found that alignment to the shaft is critical for smooth operation. Simply bolting the V-drive to the shaft and expecting it to align itself hasn’t work for me. I’ve tried this approach without success. I don’t remember what Walter’s specifications for alignment are, but as I recall I had to get alignment within about .0002″ to get it right. The last time I did this, it took me several tries to get it right. I did my best following Walter’s specs and took the boat out for a test. I wasn’t satisfied and did it a couple of more times, each time being a bit more careful with tolerances. Its now smooth as silk. I don’t think its centered in the stern tube however.This winter I had to pull the transmission to fix a leaky seal. To get the transmission out, I had to pull the jack-shaft. I sure hope I didn’t damage the V-drive input shaft seal or somehow screw-up the alignment. At least the input shaft seal is easy to replace.
Regards
Rich
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