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Walter
I’m not sure what you’re describing here. Aligning the V-Drive is not so
much centering it in the stern-tube. It’s a matter of getting its axis
aligned with the drive shaft so it doesn’t vibrate.Rich
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I took a look at the website link below. I’m unimpressed. They appear to sell an electric-motor unit, but don’t appear to have a power source. Their largest unit at 12kw is too small for the 424. My current diesel is a 53kw Yanmar. I’d be unhappy cruising at 5kts. What kind of battery bank would I need to cruise a minimum of 8 hrs even with regenerative charging, 10,000 AH? If they had a larger unit and a power source, this might interest me. I can see using something like this thing if I had a generator onboard. The generator could provide household power needs and when underway provide a power source to the electric drive. There is recent work on fuel-cells that might eventually be workable in a boat. Unless it uses diesel as its fuel source, it would be a PIA to fuel. I can’t see installing a propane tank large enough to meet my cruising range needs and gasoline is out of the question. Maybe some day…
Rich
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John,
Its odd that you have problems with your Yanmar instrument panel. I’ve had no issues with mine, and my yacht club has two launches with much the same engine and panel (4JH3TE) and have no issues. The club launches are in continual service for 7 months each year. That’s over 2000 hrs/year. I’m also not aware of any damper plate issues either. I picked this engine because the club has such good luck with them.I have very little vibration all the way up to over 3000 RPM. Doors don’t rattle and there’s no vibration when seated in the cockpit. I can feel vibration when standing on the sole in the aft cabin, but I think this is from prop-wash.
Rich
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Phil
If you haven’t already read them, here are my notes. There’s all kinds of info there and links to references. Even if you hire the job out, I suggest learning as much as you can on the subject.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/I’m very happy with the Yanmar. I’m over-powered, but this lets me run the engine at a fairly low power setting and cruise at about 7.3 kts. It was expensive however. Mounting the velvet-drive required two shim-plates and an external transmission cooler. Shop for the shim-plates from someone other than Yanmar. They are standard SAE parts.
I ruled-out the beta marine engine at the time I repowered. I can’t remember why. It might have been an issue with engine size. I think the Cummins is probably the best-fit and may have the lowest cost solution but the guy who owns TAD is not easy to work with. I don’t recommend dealing with him. Remember, the engine is less than about half the cost of a full repower. Consider the whole job before making a selection.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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I suggest putting a good coat of some kind of varnish first. That way the white can be removed without damaging the wood at a later time.
Rich
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After a season of use, I have some feedback regarding how this worked out. The satellite TV works great. The only issue is when the mast sits between the satellite and the dish. Since the satellite is southwest of my cruising area and the prevailing winds are SW, this is frequent when on my mooring. The boat will swing back and forth. As she swings, the picture will freeze for a second or two every once in a while with a SW wind.
Power consumption is not an issue, but I don’t have 12v refrigeration. It consumes about 6A when in use including the TV and dish.
I’ve never tried it while underway. The TV isn’t bright enough to see in direct sunlight.
Chuck,
They just screw into the deck.Rich
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I know that the W60 heat-exchanger can be rebuilt by the manufacturer, Sendure. They might make the W58 exchanger also. Someone who’s had a rebuild done might know. If you walk into a Westerbeke store and ask for a new one hold onto your wallet.
Rich
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I would guess that your alternator wiring goes through a pressure switch on your engine. That way when you crank your engine the alternator provides no load to the starter. With a smart regulator, you don’t need this pressure switch since the regulator will phase the alternator up in stages. Bypass the fuel pressure switch.
Rich
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Almost certainly yes. Just bring the old sender down to NAPA and have them match it.
Rich
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Diesels don’t like to run cold. Its bad for the rings and sleeves. The engine should run to whatever temperature your thermostat is set for; typically 195F.
Rich
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“There is a third solution… Some regulator have a output just for such a paralleling solenoid The amplepower regulators have this”
Cool! I wonder why they all don’t have such an output? I assume its designed to handle an inductive load such as a relay coil, yes? This means that you don’t need the 6v relay that I use. The solenoid supplies power to my engine-driven refrigeration system. I use a smart regulator that doesn’t turn on until 90sec after the engine starts. The alternator and refrigeration compressor are 6hp each, so its nice to bring the engine up to speed before they kick-in.Rich
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With my old engine, I used a separate starter battery that was not directly tied to my 12v house system. I used a battery isolation solenoid, available for about $20 at most RV stores. When the engine was running, it connected the starter battery to the house supply so that it could get charged. When the engine was off it would automatically disconnect. This guaranteed that I could always start my engine even if the house bank was down.
To close the isolation solenoid switch, there are two recommended solutions.
1 – use a fuel-pressure switch or oil-pressure switch and wire it such that the solenoid closes when your engine is running.
2 – use a second 6V relay off your tachometer output. When the 6v relay closes, it applies power to the solenoid and causes that to close.I prefer the second solution since it doesn’t energize the switch until after the engine starts. The first solution might close the switch early.
A relay on the breaker panel can connect the starter battery to the house bank. This allows it to charge when plugged in and also lets you run a VHF or other stuff in an emergency. Make sure you open the breaker when not plugged in. This cold be automated also.
This makes it about $30 plus the cost of the battery to have an independent starter battery. I use a truck battery, not a deep cycle for my engine start battery.
My new engine has dual alternators. One alternator does nothing but charge the starter battery so I no longer need the solenoid.
Rich
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Dan
I have a three-blade folding prop. I would guess that there is no
difference in performance when powering in forward. I lose performance in
reverse, but if I rev the engine up it seems to work fine for me. I’m not
sure how much I lose in reverse. Its been over 20 years since I had a fixed
prop on there. As I recall, the boat used to stop on a dime. I can still
do that if I rev the engine.My best guess on performance under sail is about a half-knott in winds under
15kts true. With the prop folded, its pretty hard to snag a lobsta-trap
which is nice since there’re all over my cruising area.Rich
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