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More religion here Dan.
Chain lets you run with shorter scope. You can never have too much of it, but if you want to cut down weight, I think you’ll find that you’ll rarely use more than 100 feet of chain. 200 feet would let you anchor to depths of about 50 feet. It might be cheaper to buy a half-drum anyway. I think a half-drum of 5/16 HT is 275 feet.
I would suggest adding a third anchor. Actually, I’d rename your secondary as a storm anchor and put something aboard that is smaller for a secondary anchor like a 22# HT Danforth. A fortress would work of course, but I see no reason to spend the extra bucks on a small anchor like this. 150′ of 5/8″ line with 25′ of leftover 5/16 HT chain would work fine. This would leave you with 250 feet of chain for the primary anchor.
I use a #44 Bruce as my primary anchor because it locks on the special Bruce roller when stowed. I’ve not seen a similar roller for CQR anchors. I recently read a bad review of the Bruce, but that doesn’t agree with my experience.
My storm anchor is a Fortress FX55 with 250′ of 1-inch nylon and 20′ of 1/2″ chain. Its probably overkill. The FX37 would probably work well enough if set properly. 3/4 line is probably fine if used with proper chafe protection. The chain on your storm anchor seems too small. Go with at least 3/8″.
Regards
Rich
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Looks like someone added it to show that shore power is on. Since all the boat interior lights are 12v, you might not otherwise realize that the power was off until the batteries got low or the hot water got cold.
Rich
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Bill
The original solenoid switches provided by Lofrans were a combination foot-switch and solenoid. Both failed after a few years and were replaced with separate Maxwell foot switches and solenoids (cheap RV battery solenoid). I’ve had no problems since.The motor brushes can stick. They are held in a spring retainer which can corrode. When this first starts happening, the windlass will begin losing power. You may not even notice it. When it gets bad, the motor will stick and you’ll have to whack it to get it started. The repair is simple, taking less than 30 minutes. Remove the motor cover and the access covers to the brushes. Remove each brush and clean the retainer with sandpaper. Reinstall the brushes and you’re back in business. Don’t use a lubricant on the brushes or armature. I’ve found this necessary every five years or so. Replacement brushes can probably be found at any good starter rebuild shop if you break one. Be careful after using the windlass the first time after servicing. The first time I did this I had become accustomed to the reduced power and was surprised at how fast the anchor now came up. It ran up and over the roller so fast that it jumped off the side of the roller and fell overboard again, scratching the side of the hull and running out a bunch of chain which gouged the toe-rail. When the thing is working properly, I need to be careful retrieving the last foot or so to avoid the problem. When the brushes start to stick, it retrieves more slowly so its not an issue.
Touch-up the paint on the windlass every now and then.
Rich
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Dan
You’re asking for religious opinions here. It depends on how much money you have, how much you depend on your windlass, how you anchor, and how much compromise you are willing to make. I put on a Lofrans Tigress 25 years ago and have been very pleased with the installation. I’ve had to replace the Up/Down solenoid switches and I’ve had to clean the motor brushes a few times. It works for me. If I had lots of money and time, I’d go for a more powerful vertical windlass and I’d totally redo the anchor locker. I use 200 feet of 3/8 HT chain and sleep like a baby when anchored. If the anchor starts dragging, you can hear it in the boat. If set properly, I’ve never had an anchor drag.Rich
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Tor
One would think that we owners in norther waters would have an advantage when it comes to bottom paint. It doesn’t seem to work that way though. We get a lot more daylight during the summer months than those in lower latitudes and the cold water carries more dissolved gasses for bottom-growth to feed on. We can get quite rapid bottom growth in spite of our short season. I suppose that most of us have the advantage of having the boat out of the water each year for service.I’ve been using Petit ablative paint for many years now. I prefer the ablative paints because they don’t build-up and can last a few seasons. I usually touch-up the bottom paint where it needs it and add a coat each season up near the waterline. If the bottom paint looks think, I add a new coat. I have a diver clean the bottom a couple of times each season to keep up with the slime.
Regards
Rich
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Tor
I have the same generator. Cute…Rich
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Rodd
That comes out to precisely 5 gal for three coats, or 1.66 gal/coat. If I had it to do over again, I’d mix precisely that much so that I knew I had 4 mils per coat.Its difficult to mix partial batches but doable. I mixed half-gallon batches by marking a mixing stick with notches so I could measure how much I poured out. You have to mix the product parts before pouring the stuff out so its a pain. I didn’t try a paint-shaker and wonder if it would work. The part-A stuff is pretty thick. I don’t know if a shaker would mix it. One of these days I’d like to get one anyway. I brought my bottom paint to the local hardware store. They put it on their shaker but the first can leaked. They use plastic lids now and the new shakers don’t clamp the lid down tight enough.
http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-paint-shaker-94605.html
Rich
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My boat was originally built with the ignition key in the starboard lazarette. Stupid place to put the key IMHO. The wire might be left over from the ignition key wiring.
Rich
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Sounds like good advice. I suggest having a rigger come out and inspect the
rigging. Its best done with the stick down. Salt isn’t the only issue.
Ice does a number on the swage fittings.Rich
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130 doesn’t sound right, must be130 degC (266F). I have an oil temperate gauge in my car and it typically shows 240..250 degF. My motorcycle runs at 260F. Odd that their gearboxes use English fasteners but they use use Celsius.
Rich
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Alan
What did he say about oil-cooling? Using raw-water cooling is just plain stupid. My almost new V-drive is already showing signs of rust, both inside and outside. I take Rustoleum paint and touch it up each year but there is no reason for that. My Yanmar engine that was purchased at the same time still looks brand new. You could eat off the valve cover.Sigh! We Americans used to make everything here. Now we can’t even make a decent gearbox. Westerbeke appears to be on the way out. Their engines have been made overseas for may years and their product line is shrinking.
Rich
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John
Thanks for the tip. Defender sells a half-drum of 3/8HT for $780 whereas the folks below charge $966. Shipping charges at 324 lbs come to $237 however, making your supplier cheaper. I can’t lug around that much weight however so I might just drive down to Defender and buy it there. I’ll pay sales tax and gas, but with the chain on a utility trailer I can position it right under my windlass and run the chain up into the boat.A half-drum of 5/16″ chain is more money and weighs 300lbs at 275 feet.
Rich
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Quent
Nothing on ebay right now in the size I need, but it’s a good thought. I
have about 6 months to look for it.Rich
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My notes are at http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/FuelTank.html
I replaced the gauge with a remote meter. The tank needed a sender that
doesn’t have a swingarm because the baffle was in the way. The sender
slides up and down. As I recall, the default length is 24″, which is too
tall. I don’t know what the shop did to cut it.Rich
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