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Be careful! A common 220V outlet such as used for a dryer or stove has only three prongs. There are two hot leads and a ground. To split a 220v feed into two 110V circuits you need a four prong plug, two hot leads, neutral, and ground. Without the neutral wire, you may not have 110v on each circuit. If the main circuit is shared among lots of boats, there is usually no need to balance the loads. They will randomly balance themselves. If its provided from a single source such as a generator it should really be balanced with more or less equal loads on both 110V circuits.
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see
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/Rich
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Adam,
A ground loop within the mast is of no concern since the wires are laced
together and shielded. A problem might arise if there is a ground loop from
your breaker panel to the base of the mast as might occur if some wires are
fed through different harnesses on the way to the mast. This might generate
a small magnetic field and cause compass errors, though I’d frankly be
surprised if you could measure any deflection. Of greater concern is
electrical noise that might get generated and show up as noise on your
electronic equipment. This might happen if you operate a strobe light or
horn. The horn in particular could cause problems in anything from your
depthsounder to your autopilot since it consumes a lot of current and is
electrically noisy.Ground loops are hard to avoid on a boat since much of the equipment gets
grounded together through interface cables or chassis grounds. Some
equipment like GPS provide optical isolation in the interface for this
reason, but much of the stuff is not as robust. I suggest avoiding ground
loops where possible. Unless there is some reason to tie grounds together
at the base of your mast you are better off leaving them isolated.Rich
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The wire gauge selected depends on the expected load. A horn that uses 10A would require a much larger gauge wire than an LED masthead lamp. The link below can be used to determine voltage drop. Don’t forget to double the wire length because you have both power and return lines. You might budget a 1/4 v drop as being acceptable. There is no hard limit for this. If your wire is significantly larger than you need you are wasting your money. If its too small, you waste power.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
Don’t forget to lace in a steel wire with your harness. You don’t want your harness to support its own weight. Over time, the wire will stretch and cause a failure. Attach the steel wire at the masthead so it takes the weight.
Pre-tinned wire is preferable to untinned. Tinning gives the wire some resistance to corrosion. Most wire sold in marine stores is pre-tinned whereas the stuff sold in homegoods stores is usually not.
I assume that your terminal block question is related to connecting all the grounds together at the base of the mast. You want to avoid ground-loops. Here’s an explanation.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_%28electricity%29Rich
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I’m puzzled by this story. I’ve helped pull my mast and other masts countless times. You have to have someone below to make sure that the mast doesn’t hit the steel bar on the way out and that the wiring harness doesn’t get snagged. If someone was below, it must have been pretty obvious that there was a table attached. If nobody was below, it makes me wonder if this was the first time the yard ever pulled a mast.
Rich.
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This might make the job easier that a sawsall since its smaller and could probably be easier to position around the mast. I’m sure it would cut aluminum with no trouble.
http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-body-saw-65766.html
harbor freight just opened a store down the road here in NH. Life gets better and better…
Rich
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It depends on your situation. If its pulled out, cutting a couple of inches off is pretty easy. Use a sawsall with a metal cutting blade. If the mast is in the boat and stuck in the step, you need to have the weight lifted off the base of the mast using a crane. Its difficult to get a clean and even cut in this case but do your best. I helped someone with this problem a few years back (not a Pearson, but similar). No amount of lifting would pull the mast out of his step. The crane operator pulled the boat about two feet out of the water with no sign of movement from the mast. They finally gave up and cut the base of the mast off in place. It took about 15 minutes to cut the bottom off but it was a very uneven cut.
Rich
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Dan
As you probably know, the output shaft runs at about 1000 RPM max. Pumping
12000 gph isn’t bad, but there isn’t much room between the input and output
shafts. Even if you could squeeze it in there, I think it will get in the
way when you try to do regular maintenance.Rich
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http://www.sail-world.com/USA/Rally-participant-lost-at-sea-entering-the-Bah
amas/77118Rich
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If you have access to a small crane, removing your engine isn’t a big deal and lets you get in there to clean things up and possibly repaint your engine. Many sign companies will hire their crane out for a nominal fee. Pulling your engine is a one day job. Its all simple wrench-work.
Once your engine is out, pulling the tanks is straightforward. Its probably another one day job.
Putting everything back together should take another couple of days, assuming you don’t spend too much time running around for odd fasteners and other parts.
Rich
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Quent
The #10 wire has a resistance of about .1 ohm for a 100 ft run and the motor
has a resistance of about the same amount. Although the alternator may keep
the house bank up to about 14v, the resisance in the cable run will prevent
the remote battery from getting enough charge current. The voltage the
motor will see will probably be in the range of 10v to 11v depending on the
type of remote battery used. If you assume the high end here, 11v, there is
a 3v drop across the charge cable. The alternator is supplying 30A to the
remote battery and the cable is consuming 90w. The cable will get pretty
warm, but won’t trip the breaker nor start a fire. The motor will be
running with a low voltage and won’t provide rated power.This kind of installation works, but is a compromise. I’m not sure you even
save money this way. You can buy a 100ft length of 2/0 battery cable for
about $350 and eliminate the remote battery, combiner, and maintenance
associated with that stuff.Rich
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Dan
Like everything else, there are trade-offs with this. If you put a battery
up forward, you don’t have to run 100A down that cable to power the
windlass. It can be powered directly from the forward battery. You only
need to run a charging current to the battery. A 10AWG cable would probably
do fine. A large-capacity starter battery would be better than a deep-cycle
battery. An AGM battery might even work better.The windlass would work best if it were tied directly to your house bank
however because your alternator should keep your house bank up to 13.8 or
14.4v even under load whereas the forward battery will droop to less than
12v under load if wired in with a small cable. You’ll have about 30% more
power if you run a proper heavy gauge cable directly to your house bank.
You’ll need 2/0 cable however which is not cheap. You can use inexpensive
houshold cable for most of the run and just crimp expensive battery cable
quality pieces on the ends to save a few bucks. You may need to switch down
to a smaller cable to fit through the windlass housing. Its OK to use a
smaller cable for a short run but keep it as short as possible.Here’s a good deal on cable. He sells both red and black. You’ll need 50′
of each ($170/50ft).
http://cgi.ebay.com/50-SGR-2-0-PREMIUM-RED-BATTERY-SOLAR-CABLE-SAE-J-1127-/3
50399179628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0West Marine sells crimp terminals for big wire like this. A nico-press tool
works great for this or you can buy a crimp tool at Home Depot for about
$40.Rich
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The velvet drive is a very reliable transmission and can usually be rebuilt for short money. Why replace it?
25 lbs seems rather light for a 25000 lb boat.
Rich
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Yes, here’s a photo of her.
<http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q271/mizza_album/ugly-women-3.jpg>Rich
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Herb
I had custom davits made. It wasn’t that expensive. Nothing available ready-made would fit properly and be strong enough to lift our 400 pound dinghy.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/davitSwimPlatform/
A 350 pound rating would probably handle a 100 pound dinghy. Most of the weight is usually on one of the davits unless you remove the motor.
Rich
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