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Yes, thanks I know. My gypsy is made for 3/8HT. I’d have to replace the drum with one for 5/16 HT. I just checked the distributor. They want a little over $300 for a new gypsy for a Lofrans Tigress. Sounds like a lot of money for a simple casting to me. I’ll have to think this over. I sleep pretty well with the size chain I already use. In any case I need new chain. My chain is looking pretty sad after over 25 years of use.
Rich
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I’m about to replace my chain. Its currently 200′ of 3/8 HT. I’m thinking of switching over to 5/16. That seems to be what everyone else is using. 200 feet of 5/16 is about 200 lbs whereas 3/8 chain is 300 lbs.
Rich
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That’s probably good advice. If the voltage is too high, the power supply in the TV set might get hot. My guess is they’ve designed in enough margin to handle a higher voltage. Try it when your engine is running and your batteries are 14.4v. If the TV doesn’t get hot, you’re OK.
Rich
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Years ago I made an effort to silence the iron jib. There’s a space behind the instruments that has a small bulkead above the engine cover. The panel has two access doors. I found it was a natural resonator for sound. I put a horizontal piece of wood at the bottom of the mizzen step that blocks off the space. This helped quiet the engine. Maybe the piece of plywood you describe was added by a previous owner for the same purpose. The shelf also makes the space usable for storage of manuals such as the engine manual and other various owners manuals.
I have a mizzen step even though I have a sloop. There is no difference between my rig and the tall ketch other than the missing mizzen. I would guess cutters and later sloops have the same arrangement even though their mainmasts are stepped a couple of feet forward but I can’t be sure. Anyone out there with a cutter want to comment on what you have?
Rich
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If you clean out your V-drive cooling jacket, flakes of crud can find their way into the heat exchanger unless you are very careful. Routine service of the heat exchanger is suggested, every decade or so it should go out to be cleaned and checked. If you have an oil-cooler or transmission cooler, it should go out too. If they are on the freshwater side, service can be less frequent.
Watch for broken water pump impeller vanes in the cooling system. They occasionally break off and can wedge in there somewhere causing a water flow problem.
Rich
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Alan
There are special purpose adapters made for compression testing a diesel.
You’ll use it so rarely that its hardly worth the investment. I used a
different tool for my compression test, a checkbook. I hired a mechanic to
do it for me.Rich
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Alan
You can reuse the jack shaft but the splined shaft must be replace. It’s a
bear to pull the old splined shaft from the old jack-shaft. Its all in my
notes.Rich
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Alan
The RV-20 had a 2:1 gear reduction. You can order the RV-26 any way you
want, including a 2:1 gear reduction.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Vdrive.html
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Looks to me like someone added a lamp for some reason. Maybe inverter on?
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alan
As a suggestion, take the thing down to a prop shop and have them check it before doing anything with it. You might be better off cutting the prop end rather than the coupling end.Odd that your strut is bent. I wouldn’t have expected that.
Rich
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You can significantly improve your downwind performance with a cruising
spinnaker. My wife and I can set and douse the sail. I light air (approx
10kts true or less, the 424 is a dog downwind, maybe 3kts through the water.
A chute makes all the difference, 5+ kts through the water.Tired sails won’t make much difference once you foot-off, but close-hauled
it can make 10 degrees or more difference in your COG.Rich
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I assume that you mean 10 deg abaft the beam. It depends on your rig,
sails, sea conditions, and how clean your bottom is. 6.7..7.5 seems
reasonable. You need the right conditions to get the boat above about 7.5.
She will do about 8.3 (max) through the water broad reaching or running in
about 25kts, maybe a hair more for short periods while surfing. The 424
doesn’t surf well but she will run the speedometer up a bit for short
bursts.She will do about 6.5..7.0 close-hauled under the right conditions. That’s
about when the rub rail is in the water. Reaching 7kts close-hauled is not
easy. If I foot-off a bit I might do a little better, but VMG to windward
drops down.Your mileage may vary.
Regards
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Alan
I can’t tell you which mounts you might have, but I can tell you that you
can’t use any random mount. The resonant frequency of the engine and mount
are related to the engine weight and mount stiffness. If you put the wrong
thing in there, the engine might vibrate at certain frequencies. I would
suggest looking in your owner’s manual for mount information. They likely
specify the mount. Your existing mounts probably have a part number on them
so you might get the info there.This is a good time to closely inspect the engine pan if you haven’t already
done so. Pearson didn’t do a good job with the design.Rich
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Silicone doesn’t hold up when exposed to teak-cleaners. If you clean your toe-rail using a cleaning solution, its bound to get on the deck and around the stanchion bases. Pearson used silicone sealant as a bedding compound under my teak. That’s likely why I had leaks around my main-cabin hatch and under the eyebrows though you can’t expect anything to hold up for as long as 30 years.
I’ve been using a product that I purchased to reseal the roof on my camper. I had a few tubes left over after recaulking the roof. Its probably the same stuff as rope-caulk. It never seems to harden though the surface will dry and seems to last a very long time. I’ve been using it around my chainplates with good success.
Rich
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Rodd
You don’t want to drill holes above the binnacle holder which is just below the compass. The exception being at the very top of the guard where you could drill a hole. A lower hole would be “cut along dotted line” if someone hit the guard hard.I ran a cable through the guard many years back to wire in a switch for the horn and windlass. I wish I hadn’t done that. Anything you install has a lifetime and at some point in the future you’ll endup replacing whatever you put in there. Why make later repairs more difficult?
Wiring for later items such as instruments run up an external cable. It looks a little cluttered, but service is more straightforward. I put a small through-hull in the cabin sole to pass the wires through and squirt goop in among the wires where they pass through to keep water out. I wrapped cable cover over the harness and tied it to the guard with tie-wraps. There may be neater ways to do this but it works for me.
Regards
Rich
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