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Linus
I should have tried to answer your question too. I have an engine-driven
system from the same company. There is a 12V soleniod switch on the
receiver assembly. As I recall, 12v power from the reefer circuit-breaker
was routed through a pressure switch on the side of the high-pressure fuel
pump. When the engine started, the pressure switch closed allowing 12v
power to go to the solenoid and close the 12V solenoid switch. A second
wire from the breaker provided power through the solenoid to run the water
pump and actuate the clutch on the engine-mounted compressor. I assume that
your 12V compressor is wired in where the clutch would be tied. I had a
problem with the solenoid switch and replaced the it. You can buy them from
RV stores for less than $20.I’m curious about the questions below. Although my engine-drive system
works well, it has the disadvantage of requiring that the engine run each
day even when tied to a dock. A 12v or 115VAC compressor would work without
the engine being run. The engine-driven compressor is about 3hp whereas
most 12v pumps are fractional HP, perhaps 1/4 hp. If Grunert put in
something in the 1hp range, it would suck power down at the rate of about 80
amps, but would probably work almost as well as the engine-driven system.
You’d need a huge alternator and a huge battery charger. If they put in a
1/4hp compressor, your power consumption would be in the 20A range, but
you’re running time would be extended. I’m curios as to what you have and
how well it works.Hope this is of some help.
RichQuote:
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Tor
Why didn’t he just bend the hose?
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Exhaust.htmlRich
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Linus
Is it a holding-plate system? How many watts or amps is the compressor
rated for? Have you ever used it? If so, how well did it work?Rich
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Norris,
Its probably short money to rebuild one of these things (though I have no
experience with this particular pump). The hard part is pulling the thing
for repair. A good shop should be able to rebuild it for something like
$150..$200. If you can’t find a local shop, let us know. We can recommend
several.Rich
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Norris
As you’ve learned, the injection elbow is a maintenance item as can be the
connecting black-pipe. When I bought my new Yanmar, I opted for the very
expensive bronze high-riser injection elbow. I think it was almost $800.
In theory, it will outlive me but we’ll see. As I recall, I replaced the
injectionm elbow in my old engine every 3..5 years or so. They are cheap,
but you get what you pay for. Just plan on doing it when it looks
suspicious. Another failure is restriction of water flow through the
injection elbow. Corrosion can form on the inside too, reducing the amount
of water that flows through your exhaust.When I bought my boat many years ago, I enrolled in a diesel maintenance
course. The first thing they taught us is to check the engine, oil etc,
each day before starting the engine. The 424 engine isn’t all that easy to
get at so we probably get complacent about doing this. A quick visual check
will reveal problems like this before they ruin your cruise. How many of us
even check the engine oil in our cars anymore?There is absolutely no reason to have any exterior corrosion on a well built
and well maintained engine. That’s one reason I’ve been so critical of the
V-drive. The paint applied by Walter isn’t robust enough to keep rust at
bay. My Yanmar that was replaced the same year looks just as it did the day
she was installed. You can eat off the engine, well almost.WD-40 has few uses in marine or any application. It makes a great coating
for machine parts that get exposed to seawater however. Its not much of a
lubricant but will displace water. Its also pretty good for removing blue
tape. I spray down my outboard engine frequently. The Yanmar needs no such
treatment, but the older westerbeke engines may. Be cautious of overdoing
it however because the main ingredient is diesel fuel. I pulled my old W-60
years ago and had her rebuilt and repainted. I renewed the paint each
season as I do with the V-drive. If your engine looks like a pile of rust
on dirt, you may consider the same treatment.Regards
Rich – BlackSheepQuote:
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Pete
I replaced my Tecumseh compressor with a sanden type compressor with
rotolock valves. The techumseh is an old design and has reliablity
problems. The sanden runs smoother and is more reliable. The rotolock
valves make it a drop-in plumbing replacement, but the mounting hardware is
a little different. Something to consider if you ever have problems with
your compressor.The engine-driven system works great when it works. I can come down to the
boat with a warm frig and start the engine. An hour later the beer is
ice-cold; yes, the mountains are blue. It’s the difference between a
fractional horsepower 12v system and a 3hp engine-driven system. Hope yours
works as well. The drawback is of course maintenace. These engine-driven
systems are about as reliable as an automotove air-conditioning system.
That’s effectively what they are. How many 30 year old cars are there on
the road with working AC systems? Another drawback is that you have to run
your engine every day even if you are tied to a dock and have shore-power.
I’m almost never tied to a shore-power cord, so its not an issue for me.Regards
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Pete
I didn’t know the clutches cared. I don’t think mine does but you must have
something different. Is this a new engine-driven system or an original
Grunert being repaired?Regards
RichQuote:
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Your compressor shouldn’t care which way it turns. Mine doesn’t care.
Rich
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The gelcoat isn’t really pure white. Its slightly off-color. If you’re planning to paint the topsides, why bother to match it? You can use any color you chose. I had my boat awlgripped when I bought her in 1986. Since then we repainted her by hand using brush and roller. It came out OK. If you get close and look carefully you can see brush marks. From 20 feet or more, it looks great after almost 10 years. Doing it yourself is affordable. Not including prep-work, it took my wife and me two days. I made staging for one side of the boat. This was just a bunch of saw-horses with boards running across them. We set it up on one side and then ran down that side of the boat with paint and roller following with a brush for tipping. Then we moved the staging and did the other side. We could put one coat on in one day. We used interlux 2-part paint.
Most of the work is in the preparation. Careful cleaning, filling, and sanding is a must. Time to do the pre-work will vary from boat to boat. I think it took us one weekend, but our boat had been previously painted and had never been waxed. Filling scratches in the surface and removing contaminants can take some time. We didn’t have to put on a primer because the boat was previously painted. We only put on two coats. More would be needed if not previously painted. A good sander is a must.
I may put on another coat later this summer if time permits. The paint has faded and could be refreshed. One coat would do. Our boat is on the hard for the year so we should have time. It would probably take a day to clean and prep each side and one day to put on one coat.
The nice thing about painted topsides is that damage is easy to repair. No gelcoat color to match. Just fill and scratches and use the same paint, feathering the work out.
Regards
Rich
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Dan
Diesel engines should be run hot. Running them cold for a short period shouldn’t cause any harm however. I see no reason that you couldn’t pull the thermostat and run the engine for a few hours.From your description, it sounds like it overheats even if you back down the throttle to run the engine with less load. If the engine is pumping adequate seawater through the exhaust, I would guess the problem is on the engine coolant side of the system. Either a stuck thermostat or air getting into the water pump and causing it to lose its prime. If air is getting into the coolant system, anti-freeze would be displaced. Is your overflow bottle overflowing? You may have to prime the water pump. This can usually be done by loosening a coolant hose and allowing the trapped air to escape. Someone more familiar with the W-58 could probably give you specific instructions.
Rich
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Thanks Chuck
My comment was just a caution about using plastic pipe. Having water flood
the bilge scared the poop out of me. No sanitation hose needed.Regards
RichQuote:
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Water backed up in the pipe. This is pretty easy to happen if water settles
in the pipe. I used PVC many years ago to replace a cocpit drain hose (not
a Pearson). I went out sailing one day to find water running into my bilge
when the boat heeled over. The drain hose was shattered above the water
line.Yes, PVC pipe is used in home construction, but the homes are heated. A
cold night here in the northeast can freeze standing water here in the
northeast unless your boat is heated.Fresh-water would be more of a problem.
Rich
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Any place you can put schedule 40 PVC instead of hose makes a
world of difference.Not recommended if there is any chance of freezing. I’ve had the stuff
split open on me. Might work well in warm climates though.Rich
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I saved this link. Its not my discovery.
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/4-489.html?id=rvr6Qc98
Rich
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I have a BW Velvet-Drive. My first prop was a 2-blade martec folding prop.
I replaced that with a 3-blade folding slipstream. Neither required a
brake. I orignally left the brake on, but removed it because it just got in
the way. I still have it in my spare parts bin if I eventually decide to
replace it.The slipstream is a much better prop. The three blades are geared together
so they open and close in synchronization. Reverse is good and forward
performance is similar to a fixed prop.Regards
RichQuote:
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