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I thought I was probably the only owner with a folding prop. Mine works
great. I removed the break many years ago. Once folded, there is no need
for a brake. I briefly put the engine in reverse and then neutral and shut
the engine down.Regards
RichQuote:
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Just to add more opinions here. I use water soluble toilet paper purchased from walmart in the RV section.
Rich
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Peter
As I recall, that recess was originally used for the engine shut-off pull cable handle. There were no buttons or switches there. The engine key and glow-plug button were under the starboard lazarette cover. I would guess everyone’s relocated the stuff by now. I suggest doing a web-search for pull-cables. Someone probably still stocks the thing.Rich
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Dan
You probably know about using white vinegar to clean the inside of the hoses. If not, give it a try.I wrapped our sanitation hoses with Saran Wrap and covered the plastic wrap with duck tape. I read an article in Practical Sailor a few years back that recommended that product as a method to reduce odor. I think it works, but its not foolproof. At least its cheap.
My lovely wife has this thing for clorox. Anything on our boat or in our house that doesn’t move quick enough gets a periodic wipe-down with the stuff. She likes dumping some in the toilet every now and then. We usually follow with about a TBSP of vegetable oil. I doubt it helps with the build-up in the hoses, but it makes sure that what we flush through our MSD is sterile. It eventually eats the plastic and rubber in the pump body however. A replacement pump was under $100 the last time I bought one. I don’t recommend this approach if you use a holding tank.
Regards
Rich
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We have the PH II also. Its reliable, easy to rebuild, and parts are reasonable and easy to find. Its not quite as expensive looking as some of the fancy units, but it works for us.
Avoid the PH-E II electric version. They just stick a motor on the existing handle. It flushes more slowly and consumes power. Why bother?
Regards
Rich
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With the coupling disconnected from the V-drive, it is normal to have some play in the prop shaft, as much as an inch or more.
Regards
Rich BlackSheep
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Ah, well that’s different than wiping the whole bottom down. A small area where damage is repaired is manageable.
When I was much younger, in my early 30’s I think, I did some work that involved cleaning something with acetone. I might have been cleaning spilled teak oil off the hull or something like that. I had trouble urinating for a few days afterward. I have no idea if it was related, but its sure suspicious. Since then, I was a lot more careful about exposure to the stuff. I’m more likely to try denatured alcohol first and I try to be careful to wear good gloves and avoid breathing vapors. Later in life I had a similar but more permanent problem and ended up with minor surgery to correct the problem. I have no idea if exposure to solvents had anything to do with this problem but I suspect it had.
Regards
Rich
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Wax, what wax? There can’t possibly be wax on the bottom of the boat after
32 years. Maybe if it were new… Am I missing something here?I hate working with Acetone. I think it pretty toxic. If I can avoid the
stuff I’ll feel more secure.What do you think guys, can I skip the acetone wipe-down?
Rich
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If the ground system isn’t properly done, the radio might receive fine and
might even tune-up OK, but you’ll find that other stations won’t be able to
hear you very well if at all. It’s a very complicated subject, and I don’t
think I can go into it in enough detail in an email message.Rich – KE1EV
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Pete
I assume you’ve probably seen this.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/sole/Unless you want to replace a large part of your cabin sole, you might find
it easier to use the plywood venere. Laying in solid strips isn’t all that
difficult however. Especially if you have an odd shape to fit. Its about
the same price as plywood.Rich
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Pete,
I considered this when I replaced my whip antenna last year. I wanted something that wouldn’t get in the way though. Having another wire running from the masthead to deck is just something else to get in the way.Another antenna that my brother-in-law recommends is a dipole with one end hoisted up to the masthead and the other end dragged in the water with a half-empty beverage bottle as a weight (not to be confused with a Beverage antenna). This only works when you’re under way, but provides a decent length antenna so it tunes up on the lower bands. No grounds in the bilge are needed either.
Rich
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Someone already scanned in the old newsletters. I think I have the CD somewhere. I thought Pat did it.
Rich
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Peter
According to the Westerbeke manual for the W60, where the raw water leaves the cooling jacket you run it through a ‘Y’ pipe and divert part of the flow overboard. Pearson didn’t do this. The W-60 had to literally pump like a fire-engine hose to keep the engine cool. I guess it worked OK the way Pearson installed the engine because the W-60 proved to be a very reliable engine. It also made hot water faster than I could use it, something I sorely miss with my new Yanmar. At idle, the 6-gal water tank would heat after about 30 minutes. If I left the engine running, we’d never run out of hot water.
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You can omit the insulator at the bottom end of your backstay if you remove the ground. This is dangerous however. Voltages that might appear on the rig at various frequencies can be very high. If someone accidentally touched the backstay while transmitting, it could be fatal. I don’t recommend this approach. In fact, you could omit the top insulator too and create a shunt-fed antenna but this is very difficult to tune over a wide band.
Using the existing bonding system (green ground wires that run between through-hulls) is inadequate. There is no reason that you can’t use this to augment a proper RF ground system. I’m not sure that this is really a counterpoise, but its close enough if we all know what we mean. A counterpoise is normally a set of elevated radials found at the bottom of a vertical antenna. A bunch of copper foil run through the bilge would technically be a counterpoise, but a bronze plate attached to the side of the hull technically isn’t. I have a combination of both.
“An antenna counterpoise is a structure of conductive material most closely associated with ground that may be insulated from or capacitively coupled to the natural ground. It aids in the function of the natural ground, particularly where variations (or limitations) of the characteristics of the natural ground interfere with its proper function. Such structures are usually connected to the terminal of a receiver or source opposite to the antenna terminal.”
Have you folks considered what you’ll do for an antenna if you lose your rig? A lost rig is one of the scenarios under which a sailboat would likely need assistance, but without a rig, most boats lack an antenna.
here’s a possible solution among many.
http://www.buddipole.com/buddistick.htmlA kite with a length of wire is also an option.
Rich
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I’m scratching my head over this. Why are you folks connecting to the lead ballast? Its not well grounded and there isn’t a whole lot of surface area. I’m not even sure its one piece. My guess is that Pearson tossed lead ingots and who knows what else down there and poured epoxy over the mess. I suppose it wouldn’t hurt, but wouldn’t copper foil in the bilge do more good?.
My limited experience with drilling lead is that you have to be careful. If the drill-bit heats up it will melt the lead, making it difficult to extract the drill-bit.
Rich
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