Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Tor
Your generator is gas powered, no? Unless I ran it dry before stowage, I’d feel very insecture stowing it below deck.Rich
<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thatcher
I don’t know which engine you have, the W60 or W58? This will make quite a difference when selecting an alternator. There is some information posted here.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/AccessoryMount.htmlWhen I had a generator on my boat, I permanently mounted it on the doghouse for the main cabin companionway. Mounting was done by removing the doghouse and bolting it with shims on then outboard fasteners to level it off. If you do this, make sure you overdrill, fill, and redrill to keep water out of the plywood laminate. I previously mounted one just forward of my mast on my old sailboat. That might work too, but you don’t want exhaust getting sucked below through open hatches.
I made a canvass cover to protect it when not in use. When needed, I ran an extension cord down the deck to plug it into the 30A plug in the cockpit. Putting it ondeck kept the noise down in the cockpit.
Having the generator ondeck obstructed the helmsman’s view somewhat, but this wasn’t much of a problem. The main issue was getting fuel for the generator. The tank was not removable so I had to tote a gas can around. Even if you have unmixed fuel in your dinghy fuel tank, there’s no convenient way to get it into the generator tank. Another issue was corrosion to the generator. The thing was never made to survive in a marine environment. They are cheap however and you can replace it every five years or so if needed.
I sent a letter to Honda and suggested that they make a unit that has a removable tank and is designed to be mounted on a boat deck, but they never responded.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Walter still has the grunnert engine-driven system. His compressor is about 3hp compared with fractional hp ratings of 12v systems. I don’t think you can compare his running times with a 12v system. One of these days I might do something with the insulation in my ice-box too, but its one of those things that isn’t quite right, but isn’t broken. I may never get to it. The right way to fix this would be to pull the countertop off and remove the entire icebox liner. Then replace it with a new stainless liner that is smaller than what’s there now. I use drop-in trays to hold food. If I made the icebox smaller, I’d have to find smaller trays too. The main reason I haven’t done something about this is that I’d have to remove the existing holding plates. I’d have to replace the copper tubing from the condenser. While I’m at it, I’d probably want to replace the holding plates too. This gets into a lot of work for something that’s not really broken.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Normal 0
Unless the teak is in very bad condition, it can likely be reused. After years of sanding, the fasteners will begin to show through the wood plugs. These can normally be drilled deeper and refastened.The teak coaming is held in place with screws which are covered with wood plugs. It would be rather tedious but straightforward to remove all the hardware and lift the teak covering. The teak is bedded with either polysulfied or silicon caulk. The fasteners are most likely leaking and there is probably water penetration into the plywood core. If you remove the teak, I would suggest drying the core and injecting epoxy. West system has instructions for repairing deck delamination and here’s some more information.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/In my opinion, the boat looks rather plain without the teak covering. There are a number of alternative materials that could be used in place of natural teak including Treadmaster, plastic decking (e.g. Trex), and teak substitutes. I’m in the process of putting down a teak deck in my cockpit. I considered many of these alternatives but went with the real thing. West system publishes instructions for laying down a teak deck with no fasteners. I’m doing something similar to my cockpit sole. The process is pretty straightforward. I’m buying my epoxy from these guys. Just tell him that you’re using it to glue down teak decking and he’ll tell you what you need. I use 2oz/sq-ft. You can of course use West System products, but its pretty expensive.
Teak can be purchased for about $14/bd-ft at a specialty lumber yard. You can rip it into 2â€
yes, its 2:1 unless someone swapped out your v-drive. You can call walter with your serial number and double-check. The transmission is 1:1.
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The 17×10 sounds small to me. I think you’ll find that your top speed will suffer. Others with the same engine might comment.
In my opinion, Pearson should have provided a little more gear reduction when they designed the driver train for the 424. They could have then used a smaller prop with a little more bite. This would have reduced the tip speed and provided better efficiency, but you can’t reduce prop size and keep the same gear ratio without cavitation. Your 17×10 is both smaller in diameter and has less bite.
Fuel consumption curves typically assume that the engine is loaded over the entire curve. If the engine is under-loaded such as would happen with a prop that is too small, fuel consumption would be higher than necessary but below the curve as published by the manufacturer. If you try to power into a head sea, having a prop that’s a little smaller will give you better performance. The trade-off is that you’ll burn more fuel when cruising and you’re top speed will be lower. Your engine will be running faster than ideal for all cruising speeds, so you’ll have more noise and vibration in general.
All the manufacturers seem to recommend running diesels hard. There’s a lot of evidence that indicates that frequent idling is bad for a diesel, but I’m not convinced that the 80% rule is needed either. We run two launches at my yacht club with Yanmar 75 hp engines. We run them at about 50% of their rated redline speed. Any higher and we kick up a huge wake. Both have over 3000 hours on them with no problem (except some dummy improperly installed an oil filter and blew one of the engines). I take my boat out and drive it hard for about 15 minutes every few hours of operation.
Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan
Are you taking the locks through NY or the St Lawrence seaway?
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Replacing the stock lid with a one-piece hinged lid with proper insulation is pretty easy. Upgrading the rest of the reefer with better insulation is quite a project however.
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hmm, my shipper uses a steel shoe under the keel. This lowers the boat on the trailer by about 6″. Wish I had photos.
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/rcarterinterior/P8180012
I made the desktop wider because I was tired of hitting my head against the circuit breakers. The table top must now be raised and latched to fully open the hanging locker, but that was unavoidable. The seat is a standard powerboat seat mounted on the stock swivel. The swivel was relocated inboard and lowered a bit.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Odd, I’ve never had to remove anything.
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I ship my boat home for storage each winter. The boat is about 13′ 4″. The
highest points are the bow pulpit and the davits. The shipper adjusts the
boat on the trailer to make it even. The shipping company has remarked on
several occasions that it tows well. The hull is stiff and doesn’t sway on
the trailer. Make sure they don’t block the keel where its hollow.Hope this helps
Regards
RichQuote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Double check the direction of rotation before you buy anything. Most props are righ handed. The 424 is left handed because it has no gear reduction in the transmission.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I had a portable Yamaha generator on my boat for several years. I tried mounting it in the cockpit, but the noise from the generator reverberated through the cabin. I think the dodger acts as a sound amplifier. there is also the issue of carbon monoxide. I moved it to the doghouse for the main cabin companionway. It partially obstructed the helmsman’s view, but not so much that it caused a problem. Mounted up on deck, the noise was much less obnoxious. I got rid of the generator when I got a smart regulator.
Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Cindy
If you haven’t already read my notes, you might find them interesting.
http://www.richardcarter.net/repower/Regards
RichQuote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum