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Agree that a rendezvous would be fun again!
I have never been to Pt Judith so that wounds like it would be fun for us.
Perhaps Phil could chime in as I believe Pt Jude is his homeport.Rodd Leeds
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I use Micron extra and always get just short of 2 coats out of the gallon.
I used to buy an extra quart to finish the 2nd coat, but I’ve since bought a
spare gallon and use what I need and save the rest for the following year. I
roll on the paint with a standard nap roller.Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Thanks all ! Great info as usual, and of course lots of opinions on which
rope to use, but seems unanimous that everyone has switched away from the
wire.Just how tough is the Sta-set X to coil and handle and for how long? Tor
mentioned a year– is that a summer season or an entire year of full time
cruising? Would I be able to wrap the sta-set x around the maxwell anchor
windlass in order to hoist someone up?Thx.
Rodd
Windseeker, #214
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My vote is same as Adam’s which is run welding cable from aft batteries
forward to windlass. Not really that difficult to do (I did it myself with
no helper). Hardest part was climbing aboard up a ladder in the yard with
the weight of approx 40 ft of 00 cable on my shoulder! I did have to borrow
a large crimping tool to make the connections up at the windlass motor
after I cut the cable where I needed to. Has been perfect for 15 years now!
BTW, I have a Maxwell 1200 VWC unit.Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Quent-
Yes that is great info– i was trying to figure out how I was going to get
the grommet in the hole with the wire inside it! I could easily install the
grommet on a flat piece of aluminum, but with a wire inside it, I don’tknow
if I could get it in the correct 3/8 in hole.Your method would avoid using a grommet, so I could probably drill a
smaller, say 1/4 inch, hole which makes me feel better as strength of the
pdedstal guard is a concern! I will try it and use the heat shrink as
described.
And, yes, of course any pics would be appreciated!Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
New York
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Jim-
How many hours were on the W58 when you did the rebuild. Also, could you
list parts that you needed for the rebuild. I am approaching that decision
as well.Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
#214
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I have a factory cutter rig, #214, 1983 model year. My “I” measurement is
47.25. Mast is set aft of sloop and ketch model, and total length of mast
(from mast step) is 54 ft.
This puts my height over water at approx 51 ft.
My other measurements are:
J- 18.16
P- 41
E- 16 (this is an extended boom over factory)This gives me a mainsail area of 751 sq ft.
Hope this helps.
Rodd Leeds
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Thanks all for your great info!! I will try to figure out which of the
recommended systems best fits my needs and price range.BTW, when I connect to my home wireless network I notice that my connection
speed is at 54 Mbps. At the boat my connection speed is at 11 Mbps,
sometimes at 5 Mbps. What is the relative difference in these speeds? It
would seem to me that as long as I am connected I will get all the same
info, it might just take a bit longer to download at the slower connection
speed. Is that accurate?Rodd Leeds
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Thanks Patrick and John! This info is great.
My use is to connect a single laptop to the Wifi antenna, mainly to get
stronger signal in my marina. I will not be using a router. Does the Alfa
connect directly to a usb port or to the network card? Or do you have a
choice?Again, how does the Ubiquiti Bullet connect to a laptop? does it need to go
to a router?How does the optional antenna connect to the alfa? via coax? if so, this
would be the lossy area of the setup, I assume.Rodd Leeds
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Norris-
I’d like one if you have one left. Thanks.
Rodd Leeds
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the lead should be just below the surface of the bilge just aft of the mast
step. I remember drilling down, first seeing fiberglass dust, then lead
shavings so I knew I was into the lead.As to why tap into the keel? well, the lead serves as a capacitive ground
which means in effect you are as if connected to the sea water without
actually physically touching the water. Many folks run copper foil to the
encapsulated lead keel and get a great signal!Rodd
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hey Tor-
sounds like you’re into it man! anyway, use about a 3 inch brass or
stainless lag bolt/bolt. use 2 nuts to capture and hold the grounding foil.
you can tap for a 1/4-20 bolt, or just screw in a regular threaded lag bolt.
As I recall there is only about a 1/2in to an inch of fiberglass over the
lead. be sure to epoxy or otherwise seal the bolt well to prevent water
from going down into the encapsulated keel.good luck!
Rodd
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Guys-
I used stick on big, bold black vinyl letters and then used epoxy over them.. You can put them anywhere on the hull behind a cabinet, etc.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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Thanks Rich–great info and all in one place!!
Question- you mentioned “a set of replacement cases” at $700. Does the case
come in 2 pieces, or are you talking about buying 2 cases for use in the
future?Rodd
Windseeker, #214Subject: P424’s – V-drive parts
Rodd,
Can we get a complete set of instructions as to exactly which bearings
could use a
replacement, where to get these bearins(either from Walter or
from an auto parts store), part numbers for these bearings,
which parts need to be ordered directly from Walter, e.g.
gaskets.,Normally, I would expect that service would require replacement of the
CV-joints and shaft seals. I suggest going to Walter for the gaskets
though
they are easy to make from gasket stock. The CV bearings are
over-the-counter parts. I suggest careful examination of the new parts to
make sure that Walter didn’t do some minor modification to the
replacements.
They may have ground one side down for clearance. I don’t honestly
remember. I know they removed the rubber seals. Take photos of
everything
as you tear it apart.does the Vdrive have to be removed and brought to a
shop for certain bearings to be removed and/or pressed in,You need a press to remove the CV joints. These presses are cheap, but
you
might be better off sending it out to a local shop to have them do this.
As
noted earlier, you need a special wrench for the gearbox shafts. I made a
pair of them. They work OK but a real wrench would be better. Torque
settings for these shafts seems insanely high to me. Its very difficult
to
get the nuts torqued down that much.is the input shaft a problem and does it need to be replaced,
I assume that you mean the jack-shaft. Walter wants big bucks for these.
Offhand, I see no reason to ever replace it. The input gear assembly
inside
the case is a CV joint and is splash lubricated from the gearbox.
Lubrication isn’t particularly good and the life-span of this assembly may
be limited.how far into the unit should we keep replacing gears, etc.,
This depends on what you find. Unless a unit were left with water in the
gearbox for an extended period, I see no reason to ever replace the
gearbox
bearings. As noted above, the CV joints may not live as long. There have
been a number of reports of seal failure for both shafts too. Removal of
the input shaft cover requires removal of the output shaft. This is
stupid
because you need special tools. Yet another example of Walter quality.
Before reassembly, it may be possible to notch the screw holes on the
cover
so that the cover could be removed more easilly the next time around.
Replacement of the input CV-joints can probably be done without removing
that shaft.if a case were available what should one pay for it?
It can run about $3500 for a replacement, not including labor. I think a
set of replacement cases would be a good value at $700.Also,should the feet be left in place when removing in order to
simplify alignment when replacing.I left the right-angle mounting plate in place when I removed my unit
because I couldn’t get at the bolts underneath. This does help get the
unit
back in the approximate position on reassembly, but realignment is still
needed.If you go to the trouble of removing the unit for this kind of repair,
take
a good look at the cooling jacket and make up your mind to do one of the
following.
1 – clean and coat the cooling jacket with marine-tex
2 – find some alternate way to cool the unit
3 – Install an over-temp alarm and run it dry
4 – scrap the thing and replace itAlignment is very tricky. Its hard to see feeler gauges beneath the input
shaft housing. If properly aligned, there should be minimal vibration
even
at high speeds. If not done properly the boat will vibrate like one of
those beds with a coin-operated massage mattress in a cheap hotel.My recommendation for all owners is to clean the cooling jacket every
other
year. Check the dip-stick for traces of water in the gearbox every time
you
change the engine oil. Keep the unit properly aligned. Repaint it each
year. Plan to send it into Walter every 20 years or so to replace the
cases
and rebuild the unit.Here’a a resend of my mail message back in 2001.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
Attached, please find a list of parts included with the V-drive rebuild
kit.
This crossreferences the Walter part number to a commercial part number.
Most of these parts could be obtained over the counter from an automotive
store. Walter warns against obtaining parts this way. I don’t know why.
The CV joint kit (item 10) is a standard CV joint used in Chevrolet
automobiles. The only apparent difference is that the seals are removed
by
Walter. I assume that this is because they get bathed in oil. Walter
sells
the pair for $57.60. Most automotive stores will sell the same parts for
between $15 and $20 each. Walter apparently marks them up an additional
100%. These CV joints are inside the case; not to be confused with the
universal joint on the shaft. It may be the same part number with seals
intact. I didn’t order these from Walter.After disassembling my unit, the only part that needed replacement was the
drive shaft seal from the engine to the V-drive. This seal is mounted on
a
removable plate. It would be a simple matter to remove the shaft, then
remove the seal plate without having to remove the V-drive itself.
Removing
the seal was very difficult. It is apparently pressed in. If owners
decide
to replace this seal, I suggest removing the plate (4 bolts), then send it
to Walter. The shaft is not fastened to the V-drive in any fashion. It
can
be removed by disconnecting the universal from the engine, then pull it
out.
While the drive shaft is out, the CV joints can be easily replaced by any
good mechanic.After tearing the V-drive down, I decided to do a full rebuild. Had I
known
that a rebuild was not necessary, I would have left it alone and just
replaced the top shaft seal. The only practical way to remove the two
gear
assemblies is with a custom pair of wrenches, not available anywhere on
the
planet. I fabricated a pair from two sockets by grinding them down to
shape. If anyone needs to borrow these, I can lend them out. I can also
send a copy of the shop manual which Walter sells for $18.50, but failed
to
copy write.My best guess is that it should take about 20 hours for an average
mechanically inclined owner to do a rebuild, including pulling and
replacing
the unit. Several days should be reserved for the job, since you’ll have
to
send some stuff out to have a mechanic press the CV joints. I was able to
remove the other bearings myself.Regards
Rich
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Patrick-
The new bearings will not have recesses–rather when you tighten down the set screws you will be forming the recesses yourself in the bearing. This is so one size bearing can be used in many different struts with different set screw placement.
Rodd Leeds
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