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Just did some online research. Both Michigan Wheel and Digital Prop Shop( in MD) recommend tightening with the small nut first and the large nut last as the lock nut:
“If you have a single “castle” type nut, finish by installing your cotter pin at this point. If you have two nuts, remove the large shaft nut and replace with the small one. Tighten small nut using the same procedures as in step 6. Now, thread on your large shaft nut behind the small one and tighten (this is your lock nut). “
This is the way I always did it, never had a problem.
Rodd Leeds
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Never had a problem getting the old one out (after a tough job sawing it and bending it), but what I do is put the new bearing in the freezer overnight and then bring it down to the boat in an ice chest. This does work!!
Rodd Leeds
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ok , the debate continues, with my vote for “cutlass” as in the following link for the Duramax “Brad” model, which is the one I have used on my boat.
http://www.tacomapropeller.com/6223/Duramax-Marine-Cutlass-Bearings.html
You pays your money and you takes your choice!
Rodd Leeds
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Sorry to hear that! What type of bolt was it–stainless or other? and what size thread was it, 1/4-20?
Rodd Leeds
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I have found a site put up by someone who calls himself Maine Sail and his instructions and pics are unbelieveable! His description of how to replace the cutlass bearing is well worth reading! I wish I had seen this before I replaced mine (twice in 14 years!).
Rodd Leeds
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agree with Rich regarding pipe insulation foam–also you can use very large wire ties so that even the foam is kept away from the mast–this worked very well for me 2 years ago on my mast rewire.
Rodd
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Regarding charts, the Garmin Blue charts are built in to all Garmin units and cover the entire US coastal waters. They are detailed and excellent,IMO. As for the Bahamas, Garmin uses the Explorer charts on their plotters and these are built into all their plotters as well! Anyone going to navigate in the Bahamas would do well to purchase a Garmin plotter as they will get, for “free”
the best charts available!Besides the chart quality, Garmin makes a great plotter–its user interface is easy and their customer service is second to none. They are always making software updates, sometimes major upgrades, that are available to download for free. These could go on for years after you purchase a particular unit!
I mounted a small Garmin 540 right on top of the pedestal guard and this was the best electronics addition I ever made! It tilts and swivels and is always visible no matter what angle of heel or what tack I’m on. No more need to go below to check the laptop!
Rodd
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Oh, I get it!! Yes, the rebuild shop did give me new copper washers. I thought you were referring to the rubber cushioned mounts on top of the block that the injector sits on. I also plan to replace the small washers that go on the banjo bolts.
Thanks Chuck.
Rodd
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Chuck-
The rubber injection seats are original. Where would I get new ones, from Westerbeke?Rodd
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I just took my injectors from W-58 over for a rebuild. Price is $65. each. Does this sound reasonable? New are over $400 each from Westerbeke.
Rodd
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I could not see thru the glass–that’s why I added back the same amount I drained out, and it is working perfectly so far (5 years since the oil change).
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Bob-
I recall unscrewing the bolt and capturing the gear oil and measuring it to put back the same amount that came out. All I did was drain and refill with oil. I didn’t clean out the gearbox as you are asking about.
Rodd
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Bob-
In mine there is a sight glass that is built into a bolt. The whole thing unscrews and I put in an oil suction hose into the gearcase. Then refill– It’s a simple operation!Rodd
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Thatcher-
Read with interest your use of a “guy wire” to get the anchor in the correct position for hauling. Could you tell us more about this and perhaps a picture??
Thanks.
Rodd
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Bob-
You may prefer manual, but I have had 2 Pearsons now with electric windlasses with zero problems in 25 years. First was an Ideal windlass on the Pearson 365 that I cruised south for a year as a liveaboard, and the second, a Maxwell 1200 vertical, is currently on my 424 for over 14 years.
I think that as long as the windlass motor is somewhat protected from salt water you will be all right. This is one of the reasons I chose to use vertical windlasses– the motor and electric hookup are all below decks! Also, whatever style windlass, vertical, horizontal, manual, or electric, be sure to cover the unit with a sunbrella cover. This will go a long way to adding life to the unit.
Rodd
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