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The platform on my boat doesn’t have a large strut supprting it from the bottom; rather it has a small metal arm that attaches to the aft end of a metal plate that is welded between the two tubes of the platform and comes from the stem of the boat. I understand that this adds tremendous support leverage to keep the platform from being bent down. It also looks good(in that you don’t really see it unless you are looking for it). I follow the idea of not letting the rode ride out over the rollers while at anchor. When hauling anchor, I place the rode over the rollers and use the windlass. When I get to the chain portion, I switch down to the gypsy section of the windlass to bring the anchor to rest. I have 5/8 in rode with about 30 feet of chain, so I always lead the rope portion of the rode through a chock and then cleat off. BTW I am using a 45 CQR and have always had good luck with this anchor (blows to 45 kts held well). I am considering adding a manson supreme anchor this year, but have already bought a new plotter so may leave the anchor for now.
Rodd
Windseeker, #214Quote:
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I have the same fitting, and find that a hose clamp around the threaded portion works just fine using one of the hoses supplied with the electric oil pump (bought for around $30 from Worst Marine). Be sure to warm the oil before draining so that it will pump out easily.
Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214Quote:
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hey all-
I left my house batteries in the starboard locker (4 Trojan T105s) and added a starting battery located in the engine compartment, just aft of the engine on the port side. I mounted a battery box easily in there and put an Optima AGM as starter batt. The original Optima lasted over 10 years, so the heat from the engine compartment didn’t do it any harm. Another advantage is a relatively short run to the Starter solenoid.Rodd
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Thanks again men! I will go with the plywood coated with epoxy and then paint– and it is a vertical, NOT horizontal door– sorry for any confusion on that.
Rodd
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Thanks all for great suggestions!
Aaron, unfortunately I’m on the East coast, but that outlet sounds great!
Rich- The door is rectangular and lies flat, closing with a piano hinge on one side and a lock hasp on the other.
Rodd
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no, Alan, you weren’t the only one!
Rodd Leeds
WindseekerQuote:
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Works for me. Pick a time and freq. I’m not sure how my antenna is working
these days, but it would be fun to try out .(Had some wind damage in
December that I have not yet repaired).Rodd Leeds
N2CQJ
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I put a 12v outlet (Marinco) at the aft end of the starboard built in winch handle holder. this way it is protected from weather. I also mounted a push button momentary switch in there to control mast mounted electric horns.
Rodd
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I have their 120 Amp small frame alternator, a direct repladcement for the W58 alternator. I did go to a dual belt (1/2″) setup. I use their Next step 123 smart regulator and have had these for aver 10 years now without a hiccup. Batteries are 450amp flooded and 1 Optima AGM starting bat.
Rodd
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I prefer “GTO 15” neon sign wire myself. Go to any neon sign place and
they’ll probably give you the 10 or 20 feet you need .
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Rich:
These are exactly the type of insulators I used. These were not small
insulators though. They were 5 0r 6 inches long and about 3 or 4 inched in
diameter. Note the Backstay , or more correctly for our boats, the split
backstay, is not touched at all. The only load is on the triatic, and yes
the eyes of the two wires do go through one another, so if the insulator
failed, the triatic would still be in place. I have seent these insulators
used to hold up guy wires to telephone ploles and towers. I had absolutely
no issues with the strength. That being said, if I were insulating the
backstay itself, I would not use this type of insulator. It is really to be
used by someone wanting a less expensive alternative to the high priced
backstay insulators, and the antenna that results from using the cheaper
ceramic insulators does a fantastic job on all frequencies(provided, of
course, there is also a good ground counterpoise installed).Rodd
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No problems– wet cells are set up to charge at 14.2 and AGM’s can take a similar charge. They all float at 13.2. BTW, my first Optima AGM red top lasted for 11 years! so I wouldn’t worry about having the settings the same as for lead acid batts. I have a Freedom unit for dockside and an Ample Power smart regulator and Alternator (120Amp) for cruising. Last set of Trojans lasted about 4 years. Not the same life as the old Surettes I used to use, but price of Surettes got out of hand!
Rodd
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Adam:
When I changed out my batts I switched to 2 6v Trojans in each box. Th is
gives a total of 450 amp hrs. This serves as my house bank. I mounted an
Optima red top, 850 CCA, agm in the engine compartment to serve as starting
battery. This has served me well for years. Cost of the Trojan T-105 is
about $120 per battery (need 4).Rodd
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Thanks guys. Some excellent ideas! I think the heavy weighted plate idea might work best for me.
Rodd
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Rich:
A very competent surveyor (who died in the 9-11 Boston AA flight en route to
a survey in California) advised me that if you scrape out any area that is
suspected of being a blister, check to see if there is any styrene smell.
If no smell, then just sand it out lightly and ignore the major fixes you’re
talking about.The name of the exper t on blistering the surveyor gave me was Jono Billings
of Jamestown. I would try and contact him on the phone if you had
additional questions.Rodd
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