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Rich-
I have Lewmar 48 ST and find they are adequate for the job. I fly a 150 as well, and on the Cutter rig which is a few feet higher than the Ketch rig. I agree the best way to increase leverage is by using a longer handle.
Rodd
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I agree Bob- I’ve had the W58 for 14 years now and always used the green, usually Prestone. I change it out religiously every 3 years.
What I’m looking for now is the cheapest I can find to do my winterization–engine, and heads, and A/C. I need about 7 gallons of the full strength to do this.
Thanks for the responses!
Rodd
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Paul-
This system looks fantastic! Only it will have to wait for next year, as I won’t be able to order it until Monday, and I leave Monday.
I will check out the material regarding fit for drinking; the pump, though, looks great, and maybe I would use it with a Vetus flex tank that is safe for potable water.
Rodd
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info– I am leaving for the Cape and Martha’s Vineyard on Mon night. I guess for now I’ll stick to my 5 gallon collapsible water carriers, of which I have three. I just thought if instead of 15 gallons per dinghy trip 50 gallons would be a whole lot better! but you’re right about the weight factor!
Take care.
Rodd
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Robert-
That’s what I was afraid someone would say!! When opening the cap will any coolant drain out, or only the salt water ?
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Tor:
Here is the link to these mounts– some interesting applications and minimal effort to get a good mount right at the helm!
http://www.snapitmarine.com/html/inst_pads.html
Rodd
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John:
You would run GTO-15 neon sign wire that is available at any neon sign shop– you might even get a short length for free from the shop owner. This is a high voltage wire that you can attach to the backstay above your bottom insulator using various clips– i always used just a stainless steel hose clamp.
good luck!
Rodd Leeds
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Adam-
I used 3 rings of 3/8″ packing, and that was about 10 years ago. Some say
5/16 is correct, but I like to use the largest size that fits.Packing for shaft lob is 3 rings of 1/4 in.
Rodd
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I second (third?) that! I would gladly buy a new case with a rebuild from Walter themselves.
Rodd
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DonC:
Thank you for your feedback–I boat on Long Island,NY, and can easily remove the vdrive and bring it to your location. I am glad I know of this option now and that the cost is moderate. I will now plan on bringing the unit in next fall after this season.
Rodd Leeds
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Sounds good Tor! Good luck using up the 5 gal. Yes, you should get at least 3-4 coats out of it!!
Rodd
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Aaron:
I would like to discuss buying your old unit–
pls contact me at : rleeds1at(@)optonline.net
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Alan:
I have had excellent results in salt water with the ablative paints, specifically Interlux Micron Extra. I start with a black coat and then added 2 coats of red. Whenever I see a black area showing I know it’s time to add more red to that area only!! I store in the water for 2 years , then one year out on land. Also, when overcoating the telltale (in my case black) color, there is no sanding necessary. just roll on the new paint. Also, no need to repaint at all if no telltale color is showing through.
This method works for me– been using it for over 10 years with great results. I used to have to sand and repaint every haulout– no more!!
Rodd Leeds
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Alan:
I bought the Garmin 540s and plan to mount it at the helm. I navigate from below with a laptop running Nobeltec. I do get output on my instruments that are mounted on the sea hood just above and forward of the companionway. Actually they are mounted in a teak box that I attach to the seahood. I have always wanted a plotter with charts out at the helm, so I bought this Garmin unit which comes preloaded with all coastal charts as well as Bahamas Explorer charts. The unit has an internal antenna, so all I need is to run a power cord up through the pedestal for 12v. This unit also will double as a plotter/fishfinder on a Grady White center console that my son uses. It comes with a transom mount transducer for the sounder. I will not use the sounder at all on the 424.
I haven’t figured out yet how exactly to mount the unit on the pedestal guard. I guess I’ll buy one of those plastic mounting pods, altho I want to be able to remove the unit and take it back to the Grady White after each weekend on the big boat, so I’ll have to figure out the best mount system for that. any ideas from anyone out there?
Rodd
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Tor:
Yes I know about the rope to chain splice and the newer gypsies that handle both rope and chain with the splice; however, I guess I am old school and just don’t trust the splice. I prefer to attach the chain with a shackle to the end of the rope. As for switching the rope to chain on the windlass– I find that I normally don’t anchor in anything greater than depths in the miod 20’s. Therefore I almost always make the switch on the gypsy while the anchor is still resting on the bottom– you are correct that if the depth is greater and the whole chain rode and anchor are dangling, it is a bit dicey!! Still able to make the switch tho prefer not to have to!!
One other thing to remember– when using rope rode always put chafe guard on the rope where it passes thru the chock!
Rodd
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