[typhoontye]

Ken,  you may want to check your profile on the website.  Could be you are only signed up to receive ‘Announcements’, but not ‘General Discussion’.  This message was sent out under ‘Announcements’. Even if the profile indicates correctly, I would resubmit/refresh.

 

David

 

[typhoontye]

I did a one person lift all the way to the dock.  But not a good idea.  This unit is heavy, and tough to get two people on, but moving it bears some forethought.  I was probably lucky I didn’t lose my balance from the boat to the dock.  An exceptionally robust person can probably handle it safely, but was definitely a ‘grunt’ for me, and I’m pretty healthy.

 

David

Blue Moon

 

[typhoontye]

Concur. Newfound metals is expensive, but a very safe and durable port light. Plus they make the boat look great!

David
Blue Moon, #189

[typhoontye]

I can add my endorsement to Ricks. The NFM portlights are great and I have had no leakage issues. My boat came with these installed, so I don’t have installation tips. But, I removed and rebuilt my SS lights on my Caliber (not NFM) some years ago. Project went pretty well, and I did two lights at a time, using Viz-queen and duct tape for the openings while the lights were out. Worked well with no leakage.

If your head compartment is like mine, you may have to perform some minor mods to the boat interior to accommodate the NFM light. On mine, the bulkhead in the shower had to be routed out somewhat to accommodate one of the dogs. Also, on the forward end of the light, I had to do some slicing/dicing so that the portlight would open all the way and save my head from banging the partially open light while brushing my tooth. I can send photos if you’d like once I get back to the States in about three weeks. Let me know if you want the photo.

David

[typhoontye]

Hello all,

I’m having difficulty obtaining internet access here on the South coast of Australia by the Bass Straits, so if you don’t hear from me, sorry…I just can’t get out with any regularity.

Thanks to all for all the great feedback on the stern ladder issue. Clearly, many of you have thought this out pretty thoroughly and come up with some imaginative solutions. The pics, by the way, are wonderful…and have stirred my own imagination. The major LIMFAC is of course the pocketbook and the myriad of other changes/improvements I have in mind. Tor and others hit on an area that has concerned me: how to get on board in an emergency. The swim platform is good, but what if the dinghy is in the davits? Etc… I do have a side ladder and I should probably at a minimum rig a line to water level I can pull to deploy the ladder from the water.

I have saved all the photos and they will be very helpful when I initiate the project. Another related project is extending my pushpit, as I noted Dennis has done. Pearson scrimped a bit (I think) on the overall size of the pushpit so there is not enough space from which to hang things from, like throwable lifesaving devices, etc.. I can show these photos to my SS fabricator and simplify the explanation process.

Thank you all…and I hope this makes it out

David

[typhoontye]

Hello Chad,

You’ve probably figured this out by now…but you can view all three pics on the previous Solent Stay post

David

[typhoontye]

Dwbuettell,

 

This system is largely self made and self assembled.  The tang at the top of the stay (mounted to the mast) is a Wichard 9150.  Quarter inch SS rivets to secure.  The stay itself is 5/16” 1X19 SS.  You need about 45 feet, depending on where you locate the tang on the mast and the length of your tensioning mechanism at the bottom.  I had a rigging shop swage on a ‘tang’ end fitting for the lower end of the stay…fits into the ‘fork’ end of the tensioning mechanism.  After cutting the stay to length, I installed a compression type ‘fork’ end at the top, to fit the Wichard mast tang.  I used a HI-MOD brand compression fitting.  I like them because they are easy to use and are fully re-usable without replacing the cone.  This worked for me because I originally cut the wire rope too long.  Regarding the tensioning mechanism:  I cannot find the make of the one I used, which is unfortunate because after perusing the internet I believe it to the best for this application.  Mine is basically a giant turnbuckle, with two handles which are flipped out to make adjustments.  One handle holds the upper end from twisting and the other handle turns the turnbuckle body.  The handles are about 4 inches long so they don’t interfere too badly with the furled genoa when you are turning them. It is a high quality piece, and was recommended to me by a rigger I met at the St Pete boat show well over a year ago.  I bought it, and didn’t use till now.  The Hyfield lever is another option for the adjuster, and Wichard builds numerous babystay and forestay adjusters.  You could ask your rigger to recommend a model or show him a picture of mine.

 

The reinforcement bracket which reinforces the deck area was fabricated by my local marine welder.  I mocked it up with cardboard, using an angle finder to determine the angle between the stem and deck.  This was not difficult, but did involve time standing on my head in the anchor locker.  My welder made the bracket from my cardboard mock up and did an excellent job.  Fits perfectly.  I specified ¼â€ SS plate, which might be overbuilt, but that’s ok with me.  That’s about it, except I did install a deck padeye just aft of the solent stay deck attach point for the purpose of securing the tack strop for the sail itself.  If I’d thought about if beforehand, I could have incorporated the backing plate for the padeye in the bottom end reinforcement bracket.  As it was, I had to add a backing plate for the padeye.  Shouldn’t be a problem, as the real tension on the system is through the stay, not through the tack of the sail, but I still wish I’d foreseen this need.

 

David

Blue Moon, #189

 

 

 

[typhoontye]

Hello Ewan,

 

Can?t login with the new password I established.  I tried the old one as well, but no joy.  I did not try to establish another (third) password through the ?lost password? process, but I can if necessary.  I sincerely appreciate your efforts!

 

David Tye

 

From: Pearson 424 Site [mailto:info@pearson424.org]
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2015 1:05 PM
To: typhoontye@cox.net
Subject: Update on the Site: IMPORTANT

 

All,

 

The new site and forums are now live at https://www.pearson424.org – please visit and check them out. Apologies if you received bounce replies etc – I was working on the mailing list and inadvertently triggered a bit of a back and forth mailstorm.

 

The search feature isn?t quite working as expected. The dev will be working on his Saturday to help resolve this late this evening. 

 

I?ll be working with content cleaning everything up and moving it over the course of the next few days. Incidentally, I was able to migrate user accounts and passwords for everyone, so see if you can login ok. Please contact me directly at this address if you?re not able to get logged in ok – I will attempt to respond quickly to your questions, and we could even get on Skype to resolve if needed.

 

Logging in isn?t a prerequisite for the new email lists at general@pearson424.org, announcements@pearson424.org and forsale@pearson424.org, but you do need to be properly registered. 

 

Please update the email address you use! The old email address will not post content to the site any longer.

 

Thanks

 

 

Ewan

— 
Info@Pearson 424
Sent with Airmail

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[typhoontye]

Hello Ewan and all,

 

Sorry about the big file.  I have now learned how to compress the files.  You would think I would know that by now.  I hope I haven’t caused any more trouble than is already obvious.

 

Anyway, about the project: As some may remember, the solent stay project has been on my scope for a while now, and I appreciate the advice of others on this site.  One thing I learned was that previous solent stay efforts created another project; how to sheet the solent headsail at a tight enough angle for the sail to be useful going upwind.  I hope I have achieved this by placing the bottom of the stay just aft of the existing forestay/furled jib.  Previous efforts tacked the stay aft of the anchor locker.  My stay runs roughly parallel to the forestay, and about 8 inches aft.  Once my sail is delivered I’m hopeful that I find I can achieve the proper sheeting angle for going close-hauled.  My sailmaker, Schurr Sails, seems to think this will work just fine, though I will continue to have to route the sheets outside the shrouds.

 

The stay is secured at the top with a Wichard two piece mast tang. The tang is located about 28 inches from the top, and consists of two halves, mirror image of each other, that slip through a 4”X3/8” slot cut in the mast.  The pieces go in one at a time and are fastened together once they are inside the mast.  Then, holes are drilled through the mast to pick up the holes (already drilled) in the mast tang halves.  Quarter inch SS rivets are then used to secure the tang assembly to the mast.

 

The bottom required some engineering, but not too difficult.  It is basically a welded box section made of ¼â€ SS plate, that links the deck area about 8 inches aft of the forestay to the stem of the boat.  It is bolted to the stem with the same fasteners that bolt the forestay chainplate to the stem.  Easy to decipher from pics, if you can open them.

 

The sail I’m having made will be 250 sq ft, reefable to 150. Not quite a storm jib, though I could easily hank one on to the solent stay if I had one.  The stay is 5/16” SS, by the way, with a mechanism at the bottom to tension it.  It’s not a hyfield lever, but performs the same function.  I bought it so long ago I can’t remember the brand, though it would be easy enough to find I suppose if anyone wants to know.

 

Again, I’m sorry about the large file size on the pics.  I’ll have to send Ewan a bigger check next year (sorry money)!  Now that I know how to resize, if anyone couldn’t get the pics because they’re out cruising, and wants them, I can retransmit.

 

David

Blue Moon, #189

 

[typhoontye]

Hopefully this flurry of activity will defray the current expenses.  Ewan, please let us know when you slip behind again, next month or next year or whenever.  My nature being what it is, I won’t donate again until I’m prompted to do so!  Don’t want to be an accidental free loader.

 

David

 

[typhoontye]

From which direction was the wind blowing?  Off shore David Tye

• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by typhoontye.
• This reply was modified 10 years, 9 months ago by Site Administrator.

[typhoontye]

Welcome, Stephen.  We are also relatively new to the 424, planning upgrades in 2016 to move aboard for a year in 2017.  We kept Blue Moon?s name as well, as we did Sanctuary?s name (a Caliber 33) before her. Both great boats.  I know you?ll have a great time with BobKat and look forward to following your adventures.  Everyone on this site is very nice and open with suggestions/advice. DavidBlue Moon, #189 

[typhoontye]

Rich and Evan, thanks for the replies! A good starting point for me. I’ve done some review on some of the products/methods both of you brought up, and I think the Kiwigrip is probably the way I will go. It gets great reviews from just about everybody who has written one, appears easy to apply, covers up deck inconsistencies, and is really pretty reasonably priced compared to some of the alternatives. Also, I can tint it to whatever color my wife desires (light grey I think). Another benefit is the ability to vary the aggressiveness of the non-skid to the area. The only real question is the longevity, and from what little I was able to garner on that subject, 5-10 years appears reasonable to expect. It doesn’t appear it is too difficult to reapply after it is worn…sand, tape, and overcoat.

To answer the question on the deck delam issue, my decks crackle and pop more than I’d like. They also flex more than I’m accustomed to. I plan to take on the project in sections so I don’t expose more core at a time than I have to…remove the top layer, remove damaged balsa core, install divinicel, replace the top layer, grind, glass, grind, fair, sand, paint. But before I do that, I plan to repair the deck areas around all my stanchion mounting points, and re-install the stanchions with more robust backing plates. This isn’t a project for tomorrow, but should be complete by late Spring. Tomorrow (literally) I hope to install a tang near the top of the mast for a solent stay. Should be interesting…

David

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Site Administrator

[typhoontye]

I can only speak indirectly to the sailing conditions the day of departure. We were sailing from Panama City to Ft Walton, on the inside, they day they started from Pensacola. We were within about 70miles of their departure point. Conditions were sporty. About 20 knots from the SE, putting us on a broad ‘ish reach making 7-8 knots. Sea conditions in the Gulf must have been choppy to rough, 5-6 foot seas on a six second interval or so. Their rhumbline was about SSE, putting them close hauled and tacking. I saw a track of the different participants, but can’t find it now. But you could tell when boats started motoring because their track straightened out. I’m told Acadia did little or no motoring, so did not incur any or too much of the three to one penalty for motoring. From the pics I’ve seen Acadia is a sloop. If you go to Pensacolayachtclub.org, click on race schedule, then cursor down to Oct 31, Cuba race, then click on ‘information’, there is more info and a neat video which features Acadia quite a bit.

David Tye
#189, Blue Moon

[typhoontye]

Thanks for the info on the Loos guage specifics, Tor. I’ll be using them soon.

Good Lord, I didn’t know a Loos guage could cost so much! I just ordered one…the PT3 model that will work with our 5/16″ main stays. Also ordered mast steps…two for the lower main mast so my wife can reach the main halyard, and two for the top of the mast so I don’t have to struggle when working the very top. Found the top of mast steps immensely helpful with my previous vessel.

David

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