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unabated
ParticipantTor,
Glad to see you had the same good experience with Don Walters that I had when I got my RV 20 rebuilt.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 8:37 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Just re-installed my newly rebuilt RV-20 V-drive. Walter did an excellent
job. The unit looks and runs like brand new. I took the opportunity to
clean-Ospho-prime-&-repaint the mounting plates, too, so I’ve got a totally
clean machine. Total cost was about 1/3 of a new RV-26, without the hassles
of reconfiguring the mounts.BTW, Don Walter also convinced me to change the universal joint (where the
V-drive’s jack shaft meets the transmission) while the gear box was out.
After 35 years, the old one was shot! Meanwhile, I discovered there is a
zerk, a grease gun fitting, on that U-joint. Since I never knew about it I
never serviced it, and I’d bet the PO didn’t, either. Not good! My mechanic
buddy suggested I top off the grease (with a grease gun) annually. Good to
know.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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unabated
ParticipantMine was a 13 when I got it. Changed to a 12 because I could never get it up to the proper RPM.
When a small incident caused me to have the prop repaired I had it repitched to an 11.
I was very disappointed in the Bahamas as I didn’t quite feel I had the power to keep speed on as I went though some of the cuts.
I now have it back to a 12.
It’s W58.
Alan
UNABATEDSent from my iPhone
On May 3, 2013, at 10:00 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Tor,What size propellor are you using? I have the same engine and find the 20″x 13 too big.
Joe Steiner
Half Moon________________________________
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ParticipantWhen I had mine rebuilt, I dropped it off on my way back from Deltaville. Don gave me a tour. Interesting place. He makes most of the contents of the gearbox in house. All USA made!
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Apr 16, 2013, at 7:41 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:I hadn’t even thought to look on eBay. Interesting. The thing is, even if
there were an RV-20 or 26 with the correct gear ratio, you’d be buying a pig
in a poke. Considering where I’m headed I’m willing to pay a little more for
“factory tested and approved.” As it is, Don at Walter said yesterday that
based on my description of my unit – good casing, worn bearings – they can
probably rebuild it for $800-950, 10-day turnaround. Add freight and it’s an
even boat unit, or more if it turns out to need a gear, too. I boxed up my
V-drive yesterday; UPS is coming for it this morning.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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unabated
ParticipantYeah, but just the cheap stuff……
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2013, at 6:00 PM, wrote:
No, Dan, but I can tell you the entire area can accommodate 17 cases of
canned beer!
Bill Tice, aboard CHARISMA
He who does not know to which port he is sailing has no favorable wind.In a message dated 4/14/2013 1:53:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:My ketch has the “U” shaped galley configuration on the port side. There
is a large, two level space located in the corner between the sink and the
stove. The upper space is accessed from the countertop, while the lower
space is accessed through the floor of the upper space. Accessing the
lower is a pain because you have to move everything out of the upper area
first. I’ve though about cutting an access port through from under the sink
after moving the water tank plumbing.Has anyone done this or found a way to better utilize this large space?
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=12178#12178
m2f
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unabated
ParticipantThe RV 20’s were used on a lot of different boats not just sailboats. You might be able to find a used RV 20 and use the case and get that rebuilt.
Just a thoughtSent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2013, at 4:25 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Ouch! Is there any hope of finding a factory-refurbished RV-26?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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unabated
ParticipantThose that can, do. Those that can’t, pay.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 10, 2013, at 11:21 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:That’s a lot of money to turn a few nuts/bolts and press in a new seal…On 4/10/2013 7:48 AM, wrote:
Quote:I sent my velvet drive out for service a couple of years ago when a seal started leaking. I forget what I paid for the service but it was around $300. A full rebuild might cost twice that. Removal and reinstallation of the transmission is fairly simple. You may have to slide your v-drive forward a bit if you can’t manage to disconnect the drive shaft. This would require re-alignment which is a bit of a pain.Rich
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unabated
ParticipantSounds like something seizes up while not being run a for awhile.
My bet is with tranny.
As far as the islands go, I could spend the rest of my days on bequia.Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 9, 2013, at 7:41 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Hey Alan,I haven’t had any “outings” this season, other than moving to the pier once
in a while for water, etc. Just hangin’ out on a mooring doing stuff. But
the noise, when it occurs, lasts only a minute or less at start-up, then
goes away for as long as I’m motoring. I’ve taken a spin out onto the river
once or twice to test it out and all seems perfect. Once the occasional
initial noise ceases it rarely returns. It did the other day after a few
minutes motoring, but only briefly and then stopped. No idea what’s going on
and that makes me nervous.As for St. Maarten, that’s just a waypoint en route to the Grenadines. Can’t
think of anyplace else to go right now this side of the Panama Canal.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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ParticipantDoes it go away for the duration of the outing or go away with a higher rpm and then come back again with a lower rpm?
Alan
St. Martin again huh? Didn’t have enough last time?Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 9, 2013, at 7:20 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Here’s what I’m dealing with. Last year my transmission oil cooler failed
and filled the Paragon with seawater (http://www.tor.cc/articles/engineless.htm). I
did all the right things – replaced the oil cooler (of course), flushed the
tranny over and over, at least a dozen times until the fluid remained
perfectly clear red – and all seemed to be OK. A couple of months later, I
stored the boat on the hard for the summer, then re-launched last fall.
Since re-launching, every once in a while when I start up the engine and
engage the transmission, I hear a loud grinding-growling-screeching noise in
both forward and reverse gears. After a minute or less it goes away and the
boat motors perfectly.A few days ago I cast off a mooring to motor to the pier here and had that
awful noise again. It passed quickly, as always, but by the time I was
docked I had decided I’d better pull the tranny and either re-build or
replace it. Then it occurred to me that I had never actually gone below when
that noise was happening – hard to do when you’re casting off a mooring in a
crowded harbor – to confirm that it was in fact the transmission rather than
the V-drive (or even the prop/shaft) making all that racket. So for the past
few days dockside, with stout spring lines in place, I’ve started the engine
and engaged the gears forward and back, hoping to repeat that grinding
noise. Alas, it will not screech. Every time I so this, the transmission
shifts flawlessly and there are no unusual sounds. I’ll try it again
tomorrow.So, this is my dilemma. I’m scheduled to head offshore next month, 1,500 n.
miles nonstop to St. Maarten, then more hundreds of miles down to the
Grenadines. I definitely don’t want transmission problems then. Now’s the
time to deal with it, but how can I be certain I need a new or rebuilt
tranny without first determining with 100% certainty that the noise is
coming from there?That’s why I asked about V-drive failures, to see whether anyone had
experienced this kind of noise from that mechanism. It appears not.So, you mechanically wise guys (which I am not), what do you think?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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unabated
ParticipantTor,
From my experience Walters machining company is a great company to work with. I think if you talk to the owner he’ll tell you what to look for on whether to replace the RV 20 with the RV 26. in my experience I thought it was cheaper to have it rebuilt then to go through all of the hassles of putting the new RV 26 in. Plus the rv 26 is not cheap. if you get it rebuilt and you get another 10 years out of it. I think you did ok.
In my case the seals were leaking and I had out of the boat anyhow, so I just had it rebuilt.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Apr 8, 2013, at 7:37 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Tor,
My symptom was 30+ years old and some yacht delivery $$ burning a hole in
my pocket. I had the RV20 rebuilt in the first year of my ownership and it
never caused my any problems thereafter. I did have a lot of gear
backlash noise at the time I replaced it, but it turns out that was the
damper plate not the V-drive.
So I guess my decision was based on an expectation it would fail in the
near future and I could afford the replacement so it must be time to do it.
I didn’t inspect the RV20 or have it analyzed after it was removed. It
might have lasted another 30 years.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 7:29 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Those of you who have replaced your V-drive, how did you know you needed
to?
What were the symptoms?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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unabated
ParticipantThe first thing I would do would be to get your batteries load tested.
A bad battery or one that is sulfated will show as a bad regulator. A bad battery in a group of four will show all of them being bad also.
If you see Bill in Deltaville he can tell you of my experience last year it got to be very expensive buying batteries out of the country. Everyone thought it was the regulator but the regulator tested out fine and in fact it was badly sulfated batteries and equalizing them would not bring them back
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Sep 29, 2012, at 6:04 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Jack,
Sounds to me like you may have two problems.1. The Balmar is not outputing a full charge to your house bank. You
don’t say what type of battery you have in the house bank, but no matter
the type the charge voltage should be over 14V. I would suspect a fault
or set-up problem in the regualator. The battery voltage should drop down
to below 12.9 shortly after the charging stops. So this sounds normal.
What is the voltage when on shore power?
2. The battery monitor shows a significant discharge when everything is
turned off. I assume this a just a couple of amps and all of the breakers
on the panel are off. In that case I would look at the circuits that do
not go through the panel breakers (SSB radio?). However, first I would
insure the battery monitor is installed and working properly.Good luck.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:
More questions….
How old are you batteries?
Did you check the water level in the batteries?
When were the batteries last equalized?If you do not now own these books, I highly recommend them.
Nigel Calder: Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual
Don Casey: Sailboat Electrics Simplified
-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
@DeepPlaya |
W7PEAOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hello everyone,
The problems that I’m having are on the DC side of things. When running
the engine all day, the house bank only gets up toabout 13.3 V, Thenwhen
I sut it down it drops to 12.9 and lower quite fast, in an hour or two.
This happens when there is basicaly nothing on. The same thing happens
after being hooked up to shore-side power or a generator.
The starter battery is no problem @ 14.5 V.
I had both alternators rebuilt in May, the house bank is charged by a
Balmar 100 amp. and the start battery is charged by a 40 amp boshe. Iput
a new voltage regulator in for the Balmar in August. The start battery
was
new in April, the windlas/bow thruster battery new in June and the house
bank new in August.
In May I had a guy do some work on the boat and one of the thinggs he put
in was a BEP Marine DC/AC meter and it tells you the charging rate aswell
the discharging rate and it shows something is drawing a lot of amps, and
this is with everything shut off.
I don’t know where or how to look for the problem.Bill I will give you a call tomorrow morning. I’m in Jackson’s Creek
right
in front of the marina.
Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Jack,
Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of
items?
I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great
ideas
for tracking them down and dealing with them.
Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…
Bob
On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke
wrote:Hi everybody,
I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little
while
and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed
back
in
May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it.
My
electrical skills are very basic.
Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolkarea
that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as
we
are
en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today
and
Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so pleasebare
with me on replies.
Thanks
Jack Clarke
Xanadu IV
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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unabated
ParticipantWalter nice to see you’re happy with the Haarstick sail I’ve been very happy with mine all of these years and I think I’ve owned about six or seven of them on different boats good luck Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 24, 2012, at 12:32 PM, “Seawater” wrote:
Does anybody have an old motorola alternator from the early W60 equipped 424s? This was a big 120 amp alternator that may have been a high capacity option.
The smoke just got out of mine, and we all know that electronics don’t work once the smoke gets out.
I do have a rebuilt spare to keep me going, but I would like to get another to rebuild and put on the shelf. It si not clear yet whether mine can be rebuilt economically.
Walter.
BTW, the new Haarstick jib is propelling me upwind at much higher angles, at greater speed,and with less heel. I may have to install some more track to keep her tuned just so when hard on the wind, but well worth it.
Walter
SV Madness
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ParticipantIf remember on mine the bow light wire leaves the dist. Panel and runs along the stb wire way all the way to the bow before it crosses over to the port side inside the aft portion of the anchor locker.
Alan
Unabated
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ParticipantI have heard that same comment from several people this winter on my travels south…. Simple is better.
alan— On Mon, 6/11/12, Robert Fine wrote:
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ParticipantI met Jack and Pat in London the first year they wintered over there. I had a tour of WHOOSH and it gave me the the enthusiasm to upgrade UNABATED and create the same kind of memories that they had created in all the years they had sailed WHOOSH.
Fair winds and “have a good watch”
Alan
UNABATED #140— On Sat, 6/2/12, Robert Fine wrote:
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ParticipantProbably why he.s not married….
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