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  • in reply to: V-drive rebuild #79412
    unabated
    Participant

    Tor,
    Glad to see you had the same good experience with Don Walters that I had when I got my RV 20 rebuilt.
    Alan

    Sent from my iPhone

    On May 7, 2013, at 8:37 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:

    Quote:
    Just re-installed my newly rebuilt RV-20 V-drive. Walter did an excellent
    job. The unit looks and runs like brand new. I took the opportunity to
    clean-Ospho-prime-&-repaint the mounting plates, too, so I’ve got a totally
    clean machine. Total cost was about 1/3 of a new RV-26, without the hassles
    of reconfiguring the mounts.

    BTW, Don Walter also convinced me to change the universal joint (where the
    V-drive’s jack shaft meets the transmission) while the gear box was out.
    After 35 years, the old one was shot! Meanwhile, I discovered there is a
    zerk, a grease gun fitting, on that U-joint. Since I never knew about it I
    never serviced it, and I’d bet the PO didn’t, either. Not good! My mechanic
    buddy suggested I top off the grease (with a grease gun) annually. Good to
    know.

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


    Quote:

    Original Message


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    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79398
    unabated
    Participant

    Mine was a 13 when I got it. Changed to a 12 because I could never get it up to the proper RPM.
    When a small incident caused me to have the prop repaired I had it repitched to an 11.
    I was very disappointed in the Bahamas as I didn’t quite feel I had the power to keep speed on as I went though some of the cuts.
    I now have it back to a 12.
    It’s W58.
    Alan
    UNABATED

    Sent from my iPhone

    On May 3, 2013, at 10:00 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:

    Quote:
    Tor,

    What size propellor are you using? I have the same engine and find the 20″x 13 too big.

    Joe Steiner
    Half Moon

    ________________________________

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    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79358
    unabated
    Participant

    When I had mine rebuilt, I dropped it off on my way back from Deltaville. Don gave me a tour. Interesting place. He makes most of the contents of the gearbox in house. All USA made!
    Alan

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 16, 2013, at 7:41 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:

    Quote:
    I hadn’t even thought to look on eBay. Interesting. The thing is, even if
    there were an RV-20 or 26 with the correct gear ratio, you’d be buying a pig
    in a poke. Considering where I’m headed I’m willing to pay a little more for
    “factory tested and approved.” As it is, Don at Walter said yesterday that
    based on my description of my unit – good casing, worn bearings – they can
    probably rebuild it for $800-950, 10-day turnaround. Add freight and it’s an
    even boat unit, or more if it turns out to need a gear, too. I boxed up my
    V-drive yesterday; UPS is coming for it this morning.

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


    Quote:

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    in reply to: More galley space? #79352
    unabated
    Participant

    Yeah, but just the cheap stuff……
    Unabated

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 14, 2013, at 6:00 PM, wrote:

    No, Dan, but I can tell you the entire area can accommodate 17 cases of
    canned beer!
    Bill Tice, aboard CHARISMA
    He who does not know to which port he is sailing has no favorable wind.

    In a message dated 4/14/2013 1:53:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
    writes:

    My ketch has the “U” shaped galley configuration on the port side. There
    is a large, two level space located in the corner between the sink and the
    stove. The upper space is accessed from the countertop, while the lower
    space is accessed through the floor of the upper space. Accessing the
    lower is a pain because you have to move everything out of the upper area
    first. I’ve though about cutting an access port through from under the sink
    after moving the water tank plumbing.

    Has anyone done this or found a way to better utilize this large space?

    Dan Kalinowski
    Jolly Lama #135
    Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu


    m2f



    Read this topic online here:
    https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=12178#12178


    m2f


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    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79348
    unabated
    Participant

    The RV 20’s were used on a lot of different boats not just sailboats. You might be able to find a used RV 20 and use the case and get that rebuilt.
    Just a thought

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 14, 2013, at 4:25 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:

    Quote:
    Ouch! Is there any hope of finding a factory-refurbished RV-26?

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


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    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79334
    unabated
    Participant

    Those that can, do. Those that can’t, pay.

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 10, 2013, at 11:21 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:

    Quote:
    That’s a lot of money to turn a few nuts/bolts and press in a new seal…

    On 4/10/2013 7:48 AM, wrote:

    Quote:
    I sent my velvet drive out for service a couple of years ago when a seal started leaking. I forget what I paid for the service but it was around $300. A full rebuild might cost twice that. Removal and reinstallation of the transmission is fairly simple. You may have to slide your v-drive forward a bit if you can’t manage to disconnect the drive shaft. This would require re-alignment which is a bit of a pain.

    Rich


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    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79327
    unabated
    Participant

    Sounds like something seizes up while not being run a for awhile.
    My bet is with tranny.
    As far as the islands go, I could spend the rest of my days on bequia.

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 9, 2013, at 7:41 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:

    Quote:
    Hey Alan,

    I haven’t had any “outings” this season, other than moving to the pier once
    in a while for water, etc. Just hangin’ out on a mooring doing stuff. But
    the noise, when it occurs, lasts only a minute or less at start-up, then
    goes away for as long as I’m motoring. I’ve taken a spin out onto the river
    once or twice to test it out and all seems perfect. Once the occasional
    initial noise ceases it rarely returns. It did the other day after a few
    minutes motoring, but only briefly and then stopped. No idea what’s going on
    and that makes me nervous.

    As for St. Maarten, that’s just a waypoint en route to the Grenadines. Can’t
    think of anyplace else to go right now this side of the Panama Canal.

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


    Quote:

    Original Message


    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: V-drive, transmission, or wha? #79325
    unabated
    Participant

    Does it go away for the duration of the outing or go away with a higher rpm and then come back again with a lower rpm?
    Alan
    St. Martin again huh? Didn’t have enough last time?

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 9, 2013, at 7:20 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:

    Here’s what I’m dealing with. Last year my transmission oil cooler failed
    and filled the Paragon with seawater (http://www.tor.cc/articles/engineless.htm). I
    did all the right things – replaced the oil cooler (of course), flushed the
    tranny over and over, at least a dozen times until the fluid remained
    perfectly clear red – and all seemed to be OK. A couple of months later, I
    stored the boat on the hard for the summer, then re-launched last fall.
    Since re-launching, every once in a while when I start up the engine and
    engage the transmission, I hear a loud grinding-growling-screeching noise in
    both forward and reverse gears. After a minute or less it goes away and the
    boat motors perfectly.

    A few days ago I cast off a mooring to motor to the pier here and had that
    awful noise again. It passed quickly, as always, but by the time I was
    docked I had decided I’d better pull the tranny and either re-build or
    replace it. Then it occurred to me that I had never actually gone below when
    that noise was happening – hard to do when you’re casting off a mooring in a
    crowded harbor – to confirm that it was in fact the transmission rather than
    the V-drive (or even the prop/shaft) making all that racket. So for the past
    few days dockside, with stout spring lines in place, I’ve started the engine
    and engaged the gears forward and back, hoping to repeat that grinding
    noise. Alas, it will not screech. Every time I so this, the transmission
    shifts flawlessly and there are no unusual sounds. I’ll try it again
    tomorrow.

    So, this is my dilemma. I’m scheduled to head offshore next month, 1,500 n.
    miles nonstop to St. Maarten, then more hundreds of miles down to the
    Grenadines. I definitely don’t want transmission problems then. Now’s the
    time to deal with it, but how can I be certain I need a new or rebuilt
    tranny without first determining with 100% certainty that the noise is
    coming from there?

    That’s why I asked about V-drive failures, to see whether anyone had
    experienced this kind of noise from that mechanism. It appears not.

    So, you mechanically wise guys (which I am not), what do you think?

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


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    in reply to: v-drive #79320
    unabated
    Participant

    Tor,
    From my experience Walters machining company is a great company to work with. I think if you talk to the owner he’ll tell you what to look for on whether to replace the RV 20 with the RV 26. in my experience I thought it was cheaper to have it rebuilt then to go through all of the hassles of putting the new RV 26 in. Plus the rv 26 is not cheap. if you get it rebuilt and you get another 10 years out of it. I think you did ok.
    In my case the seals were leaking and I had out of the boat anyhow, so I just had it rebuilt.
    Alan

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Apr 8, 2013, at 7:37 PM, John Stevenson wrote:

    Tor,
    My symptom was 30+ years old and some yacht delivery $$ burning a hole in
    my pocket. I had the RV20 rebuilt in the first year of my ownership and it
    never caused my any problems thereafter. I did have a lot of gear
    backlash noise at the time I replaced it, but it turns out that was the
    damper plate not the V-drive.
    So I guess my decision was based on an expectation it would fail in the
    near future and I could afford the replacement so it must be time to do it.
    I didn’t inspect the RV20 or have it analyzed after it was removed. It
    might have lasted another 30 years.

    Regards,
    John Stevenson
    http://www.svsarah.com

    On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 7:29 PM, Silverheels wrote:

    Those of you who have replaced your V-drive, how did you know you needed
    to?
    What were the symptoms?

    Tor


    Silverheels, P-424 #17
    http://www.silverheels.us


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    in reply to: Electrical problems #78822
    unabated
    Participant

    The first thing I would do would be to get your batteries load tested.
    A bad battery or one that is sulfated will show as a bad regulator. A bad battery in a group of four will show all of them being bad also.
    If you see Bill in Deltaville he can tell you of my experience last year it got to be very expensive buying batteries out of the country. Everyone thought it was the regulator but the regulator tested out fine and in fact it was badly sulfated batteries and equalizing them would not bring them back
    Alan

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Sep 29, 2012, at 6:04 AM, John Stevenson wrote:

    Jack,
    Sounds to me like you may have two problems.

    1. The Balmar is not outputing a full charge to your house bank. You
    don’t say what type of battery you have in the house bank, but no matter
    the type the charge voltage should be over 14V. I would suspect a fault
    or set-up problem in the regualator. The battery voltage should drop down
    to below 12.9 shortly after the charging stops. So this sounds normal.
    What is the voltage when on shore power?
    2. The battery monitor shows a significant discharge when everything is
    turned off. I assume this a just a couple of amps and all of the breakers
    on the panel are off. In that case I would look at the circuits that do
    not go through the panel breakers (SSB radio?). However, first I would
    insure the battery monitor is installed and working properly.

    Good luck.
    Regards,
    John Stevenson
    http://www.svsarah.com

    On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:31 PM, Peaboy Walters wrote:

    More questions….
    How old are you batteries?
    Did you check the water level in the batteries?
    When were the batteries last equalized?

    If you do not now own these books, I highly recommend them.

    Nigel Calder: Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual

    http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mechanical-Electrical-Manual-Essential/dp/0071432388/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348882113&sr=8-1&keywords=nigel+calder%27s+boat+owners+mechanical+and+electrical+manual

    Don Casey: Sailboat Electrics Simplified

    http://www.amazon.com/Sailboat-Electrics-Simplified-Don-Casey/dp/0070366497/ref=la_B001IGOSIK_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1348882191&sr=1-3

    -p
    —
    s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com |
    @DeepPlaya |
    W7PEA

    On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 9:22 PM, Jack P Clarke
    wrote:

    Hello everyone,

    The problems that I’m having are on the DC side of things. When running
    the engine all day, the house bank only gets up toabout 13.3 V, Then

    when

    I sut it down it drops to 12.9 and lower quite fast, in an hour or two.
    This happens when there is basicaly nothing on. The same thing happens
    after being hooked up to shore-side power or a generator.
    The starter battery is no problem @ 14.5 V.
    I had both alternators rebuilt in May, the house bank is charged by a
    Balmar 100 amp. and the start battery is charged by a 40 amp boshe. I

    put

    a new voltage regulator in for the Balmar in August. The start battery

    was

    new in April, the windlas/bow thruster battery new in June and the house
    bank new in August.
    In May I had a guy do some work on the boat and one of the thinggs he put
    in was a BEP Marine DC/AC meter and it tells you the charging rate as

    well

    the discharging rate and it shows something is drawing a lot of amps, and
    this is with everything shut off.
    I don’t know where or how to look for the problem.

    Bill I will give you a call tomorrow morning. I’m in Jackson’s Creek

    right

    in front of the marina.

    Jack
    Xanadu IV

    On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Robert Fine wrote:

    Hi Jack,

    Can you describe them? AC or DC? A particular item or a bunch of

    items?

    I’m sure there are people on the site that can give you some great

    ideas

    for tracking them down and dealing with them.

    Glad to see you’re making your way south! I wish I was there…

    Bob

    On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 6:50 AM, Jack P Clarke
    wrote:

    Hi everybody,

    I have been experiencing some electrical problems for the last little

    while

    and I can’t track down the problem. The meter that I had installed

    back

    in

    May says that I an discharging power somewhere and I can’t find it.

    My

    electrical skills are very basic.
    Does anyone know of a good electrical guy in the Deltaville / Norfolk

    area

    that is reasonable. Or anywhere south of there, we are flexible as

    we

    are

    en route to the Bahamas. We will be in Deltaville most likely today

    and

    Norfolk by Sunday possibly.
    The internet coverage is patchy to non-existent at times so please

    bare

    with me on replies.

    Thanks
    Jack Clarke
    Xanadu IV
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    Bob Fine
    s/v Pelican
    Pearson 424 Hull #8
    http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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    in reply to: Motorola alternator 12SA106 #78803
    unabated
    Participant

    Walter nice to see you’re happy with the Haarstick sail I’ve been very happy with mine all of these years and I think I’ve owned about six or seven of them on different boats good luck Alan

    Sent from my iPhone

    On Sep 24, 2012, at 12:32 PM, “Seawater” wrote:

    Does anybody have an old motorola alternator from the early W60 equipped 424s? This was a big 120 amp alternator that may have been a high capacity option.

    The smoke just got out of mine, and we all know that electronics don’t work once the smoke gets out.

    I do have a rebuilt spare to keep me going, but I would like to get another to rebuild and put on the shelf. It si not clear yet whether mine can be rebuilt economically.

    Walter.

    BTW, the new Haarstick jib is propelling me upwind at much higher angles, at greater speed,and with less heel. I may have to install some more track to keep her tuned just so when hard on the wind, but well worth it.


    Walter
    SV Madness
    P424 Hull #1

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    in reply to: Bow light wiring? #78684
    unabated
    Participant

    If remember on mine the bow light wire leaves the dist. Panel and runs along the stb wire way all the way to the bow before it crosses over to the port side inside the aft portion of the anchor locker.
    Alan
    Unabated


    Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone


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    in reply to: FW pumps #78612
    unabated
    Participant

    I have heard that same comment from several people this winter on my travels south…. Simple is better.
    alan

    — On Mon, 6/11/12, Robert Fine wrote:

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    in reply to: Guestbook: Entry 49 for "Silverheels’ Homeport" #78599
    unabated
    Participant

    I met Jack and Pat  in London the first year they wintered over there. I had a tour of WHOOSH and it gave me the the enthusiasm to upgrade UNABATED and create the same kind of memories that  they had created in all the years they had sailed WHOOSH.
     Fair winds and “have a good watch”
    Alan
    UNABATED #140

    — On Sat, 6/2/12, Robert Fine wrote:

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    in reply to: elecric head #78587
    unabated
    Participant

    Probably why he.s not married….


    Sent from my Verizon Wireless mobile phone


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