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Viewing 15 posts - 211 through 225 (of 676 total)
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  • in reply to: Balmar regulator wiring #77678
    unabated
    Participant

    You should make a few wiring checks to make sure you have no voltage drops between the “sense wire” at the VR and the battery. In other words. the voltage at the battery should read about the same  as the battery voltage at the regulator. Poor wiring practices, poor grounds etc    would cause this….. and the results are improperly charged batteries.
    Alan

    — On Mon, 9/19/11, Patrick wrote:

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    in reply to: Annapolis Boat Show #77649
    unabated
    Participant

    John,
    What “work” are you doing at the show?

    — On Fri, 9/16/11, John Stevenson wrote:

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    in reply to: Annapolis Boat Show #77648
    unabated
    Participant

    Most of the places in and around Annapolis have been booked since last year. Most places close to the show have a 2 or 3 night min.
    I usually stay in  Glen Bernie – a suburb of Baltimore and just a 20 minute ride to the show.
    Half the price of anything near Annapolis.
     Last time I anchored off the Naval Academy for the week……
    Alan

    — On Sat, 9/17/11, kalinowski wrote:

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    in reply to: Pulling the fuel tank #77625
    unabated
    Participant

    Hansen Marine has the hose and most of the other W58 parts.
    alan

    — On Sun, 9/11/11, wrote:

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    in reply to: Pulling the fuel tank #77618
    unabated
    Participant

    IMHO
    While you have the beast out…. check the by-pass hose on the bottom the thermostat housing. If it looks”original” I’d replace it now. It’s a b****h  to get at while the engine is in place.
    alan

    — On Sat, 9/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:

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    in reply to: W58 Circuit breaker #77591
    unabated
    Participant

    Also check to make sure you have clean grounds. Especially the main ground to the engine block.
     Another thing to check, and I found this on my W58 before I replaced the entire harness. On the port side where the engine harness is plugged into the harness from the instrument panel, the rubber on the connecting plug gets cracked, loose, corroded or otherwise disfigured. Make sure it’s clean and fits tight. What led me to this in the first place was I turned the key and had no response and found the plug just a little bit pulled out.
    alan
    UNABATED #140

    — On Tue, 9/6/11, Rodd Leeds wrote:

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    in reply to: Diesel Leak or Spill #77577
    unabated
    Participant

    If the’re not secured properly, they WILL chafe through – from the constant motion in a seaway……
    alan

    — On Sat, 9/3/11, John Stevenson wrote:

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    in reply to: Westerbeke 58 Alternators #77562
    unabated
    Participant

    You should replace it with a heavy duty 100 amp (at least – if you only have one belt) and a 3 stage external regulator.
    Alan
    UNABATED

    — On Thu, 9/1/11, Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:

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    in reply to: Just checking #77547
    unabated
    Participant

    High and dry in Deltaville Virginia. The water was a foot over the docks – but I was in the parking lot…..No damage that I know about now – but up north in western NY at the moment.
    Alan
    UNABATED

    — On Tue, 8/30/11, Robert Fine wrote:

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    in reply to: New Fuel Tank #77499
    unabated
    Participant

    It only takes about 4 hours to remove engine!
    alan

    — On Sat, 8/13/11, Dea Latis wrote:

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    in reply to: Bottomless pit #77482
    unabated
    Participant

    It was a custom install by the PO. SS liner with 6 inches of insulatioin all around. Makes the box small but easier to keep cool.
    I added a spillover wall to divide half into a freezer, with a 2nd lid for access to freezer only.
    alan

    — On Thu, 8/11/11, kalinowski wrote:

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    in reply to: Bottomless pit #77478
    unabated
    Participant

    Pete,
     Latches   http://www.mcmaster.com/#1256a3/=dk6bxz
    alan

    — On Wed, 8/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:

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    in reply to: Bottomless pit #77477
    unabated
    Participant

    Pete,
     Hinges:   http://www.mcmaster.com/#1276a14/=dk685o
    Latches  are there also but can’t find the link at the moment.
    alan

    — On Wed, 8/10/11, Pete Dubler wrote:

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    in reply to: Bottomless pit #77475
    unabated
    Participant

    I am all of 5’6″ and the cooler is 4 feet deep. When I wanted something on the bottom I had to remove all the crap on top and reach down with tongs.
    So, I put an access door on the bottom of my cooler. I keep drinks and stuff I want easy access to down there. That way when I want a beer I just reach in and grab it without having to rummage though or remove everything on top to get it.
    Most   people would say ” OH, if you do that you’ll let out all of cold”….. well let me tell you… to get a beer – in and out in under 6 seconds – compared to 5 or 6 minutes trying to grab it from the top.
    It was a suggestion from some experienced world cruisers and has paid off in ease of access and organization. https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Refrigeration/UNABATED-Refer-Project
    Pictures are in the 424 gallery
    alan
    unabated

    — On Wed, 8/10/11, wrote:

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    in reply to: Furlex 300S – Decore the Furling Line? #77407
    unabated
    Participant

    I don’t have a Furlex, but I have always used a rope wire combo for the furling line. You can put more wire around the drum than rope. Also make sure you don’t have a lot of extra line around the drum when you have the sail furled. just need an extra wrap.
    One thing that I try to do is to maintain some kind of tension on the line when I furl or unfurl the sail so that the line is taught and don’t get any kind of over wrap.
    Alan

    — On Tue, 7/12/11, Rick Dugger wrote:

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Viewing 15 posts - 211 through 225 (of 676 total)