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  • in reply to: Life raft cradle #75299
    unabated
    Participant

    Mine is under the boom and just to the port of the center companionway. It’s pretty much out of the way. If you mount it there, you can take some of  battens down on the interior and thru bolt it without having to take the panels down. We were able to just pull the center down enough without actuallly removing the panels.
    These life rafts are heavy enough, I doubt anyone but a determined thief is going to steal it.
    My PO had it mounted forward of the mast and every time you’d tack the sheets would get caught underneath the canister, so I moved it.
    alan
    — On Tue, 5/4/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:

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    in reply to: FW: Where’s the lead? #75294
    unabated
    Participant

    Bob, Here is my suggestion. Get it ALL working before you leave the US. Not only are parts difficult to obtain, but expertise is also a little thin out there.
    Alan

    — On Mon, 5/3/10, Robert Fine <> wrote:

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    in reply to: Plastic Bushing on Rudder Post #75273
    unabated
    Participant

    Great  idea!!!

    alan

    — On Thu, 4/29/10, hs <> wrote:

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    in reply to: FW: Where’s the lead? #75271
    unabated
    Participant

    That’s is exactly what I wrote about the other day. It’s called the SKIN effect. No amount of circular mils (wire dia) can make  up for the fact that RF at these frequencies  travels on the surface of the metal.
    alan

    — On Thu, 4/29/10, Silver Heels <> wrote:

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    in reply to: Plastic Bushing on Rudder Post #75268
    unabated
    Participant

    Mine rides up the shaft also. I pop down there on occasion and push it back down. One of these days I was thinking of putting a hose clamp on there but haven’t  gotten a round “toit” yet.
    alan

    — On Thu, 4/29/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:

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    in reply to: FW: Where’s the lead? #75248
    unabated
    Participant

    “This will be fed with COAX”
    I think most experts will agree that the tuner to ant. connection should be fed with  GTO-15 High Tension wire. That wire can be bought at any neon sign shop or any HAM radio outlet.
    It should be kept as short as possible as it is included in the antenna length calculations.

    alan

    — On Wed, 4/28/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <> wrote:

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    in reply to: Where’s the lead? #75246
    unabated
    Participant

    Carbonates of lead, silicates of lead, and sulfates of lead can be a
    chalky
    white substance….  Sea water + lead + time = ??

    Do they weigh as much as real lead, or have our boats gotten lighter….. or heavier with the addition of salt water.
    a

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    in reply to: Where’s the lead? #75241
    unabated
    Participant

    When I was researching this for my SSB setup, there appeared to be two schools of thought, maybe more. But there are the Copper foil people, the Radial people and then the External thing mounted to your hull DynaPlate  people- Ok so that makes 3.
    The foil, and you need lots of it acording to some, needs to be isolated from the DC ground. If you do hook to the DC ground – block, fuel tank or anything that is grounded you need to put in blocking capacitors.to keep the DC out of the system. This all is all independent of the DC ground or AC gorund or the Bonding system.
    And you need to worry about connecting to too many things, else you create ground loops…. grounds of varying potential.
    They say any of the systems will work – depending on your boat and your setup. This is the part that is the black magic. Some people swear by their system cause it works for them.
    I never heard the  attaching the foil to the encased lead people, i guess if it works for them … but I agree with Rich on this one.
    I did find one guy that knows his stuff and is willing to talk…. Gary from DockSide radio.
    alan

    — On Wed, 4/28/10, <> wrote:

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    in reply to: ground vs. ground #75237
    unabated
    Participant

    I put in a Galvanic Isolator in the the Green Line from the Shore Power.
    Not sure if works or helps but it sure looks pretty.
    alan

    — On Wed, 4/28/10, <> wrote:

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    in reply to: Getting closer on the heat issue for the w58 #75235
    unabated
    Participant

    I haveba W58 with the spec’ed R30G pump.  Have  not had an over heat problem. Well, if you discount the broken belt or disintegrated impeller.
    Cruising at around 2000 RPM (90 % of the time) the temp maintains at around 160. At around 2400 it’s a steady 185-190.
    Not sure what circumstances would require a larger pump?
    alan

    – On Wed, 4/28/10, <> wrote:

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    in reply to: ground vs. ground #75214
    unabated
    Participant

    John,
    Just to add to the mix, I purchased on recommendation from someone I met in George Town, the KISS  Radial Ground Plane. I ‘ll   install   it when I return to the Bahamas next month. I’ll let you know if I get any better results with Airmail. I’ll try it both with the foil and without

    When I was working (employed) we used RF Sealers to seal PVC (10 mil) together. The RF generators ran at 31.5 MHz at around 2000 watts. When we upgraded some of our logic components to IC’s we had a terrible time with noise. The only thing that worked to reduce the noise level was foil ground straps and lots of it. RF  at that freq. travels on the skin or surface of the conductor. So thickness (cir. mils) of wire was of no value. Which is why braid works almost as well. Even though there a small dia. wire there is a lot of surface area in the braiding.
    There was so much energy in the room that it would light 6 ft florescent tubes just by being there ( not hooked up to any wires).
    The coax that we used was 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
    alan

    — On Tue, 4/27/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:

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    in reply to: W 58 still heating up, any suggestions on what to check #75211
    unabated
    Participant

    Yes, Take it to a radiator shop and have them “boil” it.
    alan

    — On Tue, 4/27/10, kalinowski <> wrote:

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    in reply to: W 58 still heating up, any suggestions on what to check #75204
    unabated
    Participant

    On my W58, the coolant tank  that is ON the engine (as opposed to the surge tank in the cockpit) as a bleeder valve. After I have done anything to the coolant system, I always open that up and remove any trapped air. Also, as john  has suggusted, to check the coolant lines going to the H2O heater. 

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    in reply to: W 58 still heating up, any suggestions on what to check #75195
    unabated
    Participant

    With all the work you have done and the hoses that have been off, I’ll vote for the air bubble in the system, vapor lock theroy…. it’s happened to me.
    I have a surge tank that is mounted high and above the system that is located in the port sail locker. When i redid my hoses, I did have a bubble still in there… need to burb it.
    a

    — On Tue, 4/27/10, adam silverstein <> wrote:

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    in reply to: ground vs. ground #75185
    unabated
    Participant

    Hey Buddy…. how ya doing. Just wanted to let you know I made it to the
    Bahamas. I am currently in Coral Harbor on New Providence. I hope you are
    enjoying the weather down there cause it sure sucks here. Why did I leave to head
    north?

    Any how I’ve already had my sundowners so I am not fit to answer all
    your questions. I will let the big boys answer that. Adding a ground plane to
    your SSB is like talking anchors though, everyone will have 2 opinions.
    You need to learn the difference between BONDING and GROUNDING. I have my SSB connected to an UNBONDED though hull which is attached to some copper foil in the bilge BUT i am going to change that to just using some radials…..
    I am sure John or Bob can do a much better job at explaining all this….
    But I am sure this will at least start the debate going…
    alan
    http://www.sailblogs.com/member/unabated/

    — On Mon, 4/26/10, Silver Heels <> wrote:

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Viewing 15 posts - 331 through 345 (of 676 total)