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@quent wrote:
Hello All-
My question for those of you who have gotten deeper into their P-424 than I have:
On the starboard side, there is a space aft of the settee built-in water tank and forward of the half bulkhead at the companionway. Is there a similar space on the port side? If so, any estimate of the dimensions would be helpful.
Thanks!
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132Quent, there is an identical space on my port side but I don’t have a U shaped galley. The fitting for the water tank is in there, nothing else.
I thought of cutting some holes in the front, below the bunk and supporting some tubes in there for rolled chart storage.Chuck
@quent wrote:
Anyone have experience replacing core with high density foam? I’d like to do that in the cockpit, but I’m worried about the expansion pressure distorting a large flat surface.
QuentCoosaboard is the product of choice. It comes in a variety of densities and thicknesses.
Use a Fein saw to cut along the non-skid border. Peel the top layer of glass off CAREFULLY. Dig out wet core to inner layer of glass. Cut Coosa to fill void and epoxy in place using a vacuum bag. Place the old skin back in place and bag it as well. Structural repair complete.Any areas that will have hardware installed should get an FRP plug instead of Coosa.
Common repair on the 30+ age group. $400 per square foot. Cosmetic is extra.
Chuck
Quent, I work on Jackson Creek, on the peninsula between the Piankatank and Rappahanncok Rivers in Deltaville. We are a couple hours south of Mill Creek. With the NW wind you could sail down here on the same tack.
If you wander over this way look me up. My desk overlooks the anchorage. I’ll know you’re here… 😉
Chuck
80four-51four-7fourfour2Charlie, any competent diesel shop can get you going again. We use Industrial Diesel in Norfolk for pumps and injectors. I strongly advise against opening the pump. It is a painfully expensive thing to replace and it about as close to sterile on the inside as you can get with something that is filled with fuel and oil.
The pump along with most of the engine fuel piping has copper crush washers that should not be re-used and the pump has a bleed screw (faces the block, on the inside of the pump) that once over tightened will likely not seat anymore. Two possible leak sources.
The pump probably does not need to be rebuilt but just overhauled, new gaskets, seals etc. It is lubricated with fuel and engine oil pressure so it probably isn’t worn out. What kills these is bad fuel. Injectors suffer will from this as well.
Removing it can dick with your injector timing. Make sure you note the reference mark on the mounting flange and the engine timing gear plate and that it gets oriented that way when you put it back in. Don’t crank the engine while its out for a myriad of reasons.
Are you sure its coming from the pump? The number one injector and or its plumbing would make this area wet.
Chuck
Eric, the stainless and aluminum will eventually bond together. The rivet we know will have to be drilled out, the screw will probably shear off and result in the same situation.
A professional would tap the boom and use a machine screw with a coating of Tef-Gel to secure the block. It might seem like overkill until you go to remove the hardware to repaint the spar.
Tef-Gel might work on a self tapping screw but the cutting action of the screw makes it unlikely.
Chuck
Eric, the stainless and aluminum will eventually bond together. The rivet we know will have to be drilled out, the screw will probably shear off and result in the same situation.
A professional would tap the boom and use a machine screw with a coating of Tef-Gel to secure the block. It might seem like overkill until you go to remove the hardware to repaint the spar.
Tef-Gel might work on a self tapping screw but the cutting action of the screw makes it unlikely.
Chuck
Pettit’s transducer paint comes in nearly and identical can. They both are epoxy based, I think that’s why they stick to prepped metal so well.
Clean the transducer and mask it off and spray on 2 or 3 coats. The can says no more than 3.
Don’t put any antifouling over top of it on the transducer.What brand unit do you have? We’ve installed a few of the interphase units. Pretty cool when you understand what you are looking at. It took me a few trips out to get the hang of reading the display.
The watermen down here were working a grant from the state to pull up ‘ghost pots’. The crab pots that are abandoned trap crabs and fish.
They rigged up a directional sensor on a pole and using a Hummingbird fish finder were able to see the pots using as side scanning. They guys said once they got the hang of what they were seeing they could tell if it was an old or new pot, even if it was coated or un-coated.Chuck
Tor, at the yard we’ve been having really good results with the stuff as well. We are not putting anti fouling over top of barnacle barrier. Looking at the can, its nearly identical to the transducer paint they sell. Reading the ingredients I think it may very well be.
We are prepping the running gear and applying 3 coats of the barnacle barrier.Chuck
You are correct the supply feed is undersized and has no circuit protect at the source. This is to protect the conductor, not the panel.
There’s no main DC breaker on the panel (not on mine anyway).
I’m replacing my two battery switches with a Blue Seas 8690 switch.
It keeps the start and house independent but on a single switch (still offers combine). It has a 100 amp breaker for the DC panel feed and a 24 hour bus for your bilge pump and stereo.I’m tying my house batteries together to form a single bank, running them to a large bus bar and getting rid of the mess of wires that are terminated at the back of the switch. Adding terminal fuse blocks at the battery output. Moving the shunt and any other connections in the stbd cockpit locker into the hanging locker.
Later when I move the house batteries into a spot in the cabin I’ll tie into the DC system at the bus. Thinking Trojan 105’s in that spot under and just aft of the salon table.
Chuck
No idea, I’ve seen 48’s at swap meets for a few hundred and figured if I need a drum in better shape that would be the way to go.
ChuckPete, re-chroming has become really expensive due to commodity pricing. I looked into doing the bronze bang rail. 3K.
Chrome plated bronze holds up really well over time if cared for.
I’ve got a good shop I use in VA Beach if you are interested.Chuck
Tor, you are probably correct. As I understand the boat was built with an eye on the charter industry being a large customer and wasn’t intended to compete with the serious off shore boats being made at the time.
That area on the aft end of the keel is weak spot on the boat. I’m in the process of some repairs in that area as well. The bottom of the keel in the well is about an inch thick. The sides of the keel about 6 inches up from the bottom are anywhere from 5/16 to 1/2 inch thick.
The bottom leak you guys are describing is likely from bilge water getting into the laminate and causing deterioration or impact or crush damage from the outside with the same results. A repair will only be effective if all the wet laminate is removed. It really cannot be done from the inside.
I spoke with a gentleman that worked in the Pearson plant in the 80s and he told me the keel was being damaged so often by backing into things that they had a wedge kit available that was nothing more than a solid mold that you fit into the bottom aft section after cutting out the damaged bottom of keel well with a saw.
Whether or not this is true I can’t say but I do know first hand that this location can stand some improvement.Chuck
