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Tor, the O-rings are $2 parts. You are really going to reinstall them after the punishment you put them through?
🙄
Patrick, stick with the ACR. It is pretty simple and if I’m not mistake does not have the amperage limitations the Duo-Charge has.
Chuck
Oversize the hole and glass in a appropriately sized piece of FRP rod. Drill it when dry. Won’t compress and is stronger than straight epoxy.
ChuckPatrick, try this link;
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/4-489.html?id=rvr6Qc98
They are too thick, I used a belt sander to make it thinner.
Chuck
Bob, the Indel Wabasto units are pretty nice. Priced the same as the Raratins. Footprint is odd though and not so certain you could get it under the bunk.
Chuck
I lifted the ring today. You are right, nothing but self tapping screws. I see why the sealant can be compromised so easily.
I’m going to pull the stick this week and clean it up properly. I would think that if the ring (partner) were through bolted to the underside of the cabin top it could be properly bedded and remain sealed. My thought is maybe an FRP ring the same width as the partner would better replace the top layer of glass and plywood beneath. Leave the lower section of glass and bond to that. The FRP ring could probably come up off the deck about .5 inches allowing the lower mast boot clamp to go flush to the deck vs the collar above the screws.
Mast wiring and loosening the rigging was all simple enough. The salon table was quite the rubik’s cube though.Mast step looks like it could stand to be replaced. Hoping it separates from the stick with no issues.
Chuck
Rich, what are the screws that the ring is held down with fastened too within the deck? I pulled my headliner down looking for a leak source and thought I’d see the underside of the fasteners. They are inset into the deck?
Chuck
@RichCarter wrote:
Pat
The problem I have is that the caulking seal around the collar breaks, allowing water to leak under the collar. I don’t know yet if it gets into the screw holes and won’t find out until I dig out the rotted wood to see how deep it goes. I’ve typically used polysulfide and I’ve tried silicone sealant. I might try something different this time. I used Dicor RV lap sealant on my chainplates a few years back and it seems to be holding up very well. I use this on our camper to seal the roof seams. Dicor remains flexible. I have a few tubes left over from the last time I renewed the seams on our camper deck. Its not marine and I feel guilty not paying the marine premium when I use it. Butyl rubber tape might also be a good choice as long as the screws are set with caulk.http://www.dicor.com/Product.aspx?ID=12
Rich
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Most engines are ‘right hand’ and most boats walk to port in reverse. Ours walk to the right with the addition of the V-drive. Even the walk though isn’t a dependable source of direction. Trying to steer the boat in reverse is about impossible. A thruster is very effective, lock the rudder amidships and use it to steer, but we don’t all have those.
I’ve found that the method below works with most any boat, even the unruly full keel with the tiny two blade prop. The trick is getting the ass end of the boat as close as possible to the slip before backing;
If your slip will accommodate it, approach the slip at a 90 degree angle with the slip on stbd, about 8-10 feet out from the slip. About the time the bow reaches the port outside piling cut it hard to port and put it in neutral if not already. Give it a burst in reverse, swing the rudder to stbd when stopped and leave it in reverse at idle. It should back you right into the slip. Current and wind not considered in this description.
If you get out of shape the boat can be spun on its keel with the rudder to port and alternating between a quick blast of fwd to spin to port and followed with a little reverse halt your forward momentum and crawl to stbd. Spin it around, go back out and try it again.
Don’t put fenders out, they will snag things and get you all out of shape.
Approach it no faster than you would want to hit it. If you hit it, act like you meant too.
Hope this helps.
Chuck
Bill, did you figure this out? Are you going through 2.5 qts of gear lube?
There is a seal at the front of the gear. Yes it can leak.
Getting the Velvet drive off for repairs is pretty easy. Remove the upper shaft and I think you have 6 bolts holding the gear on.Chuck
BREAK
On a different thread, has anyone experienced a transmission leak in the seal between the Velvet Drive and bell housing on a W-60? Or am I the first at a rate of 2.5qts/30 hrs running?
. ~~~~ Capt. Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA ~~~~~
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I’ll be at the Yanmar booth on Saturday and Sunday. Might be up there Friday as well but I’m not sure if I’m covering that day or not. Look me up if you are in town. Let me know if you plan to gather for a painkiller.
ChuckLinus, bronze seacock assembly mounted on a composite backing plate and through bolted. Bulletproof.
The original ones are bedded with silicone, most of the holes are oversize so there’s even less of the mushroom lip against the hull than would appear. When I was removing mine some of them spun with little force.
Here’s a decent image of what a proper install would look like.
http://www.boattest.com/images-gallery/News/seacock_drawing.jpg
The load is all on the backing plate and transferred to a large area of the hull. The mushroom does nothing to hold anything in place. You could loose the head of mushroom from damage and only need to close the seacock.
Lastly, the hull is really thin in some spots. About 7/16 where the cockpit scuppers exit the boat. The backing plate shouldn’t be overlooked.
Chuck
James, you can make up some bunk boards with 4×4 and carpet them. They’d need to be about 18″ long. Sling them under the rail like a fender board.
Chuck
Mark, I have a Raymarine type two linear drive. The unit is off for a rudder repair. It is a pretty straightforward installation, a mounting surface with a backging plate at the stern end of the stbd cockpit locker is where the foot is attached. The other end is terminated on a steering arm attached to the rudder stock. Not much more to it than that.
Chuck
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Mark, I have a Raymarine type two linear drive. The unit is off for a rudder repair. It is a pretty straightforward installation, a mounting surface with a backging plate at the stern end of the stbd cockpit locker is where the foot is attached. The other end is terminated on a steering arm attached to the rudder stock. Not much more to it than that.
Chuck
