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Rick, I’ll dig up the details on the thruster installation, tube and thruster size. I’m very happy with the Lewmar unit. Can find zincs and props most anywhere.
It has ample power to move the boat. Probably more than enough. Ideally it would be deeper in the boat but the spot between the water tank and the bulkhead is really the only spot to locate it.If you want a quoted price for a full installation or components (tube) give me a call.
Chuck
Quent, there is lateral support. The stuffing box has a collar on the bottom of the flange that extends down into the rudder tube about 3/8ths of an inch.
Chuck
What I didn’t notice anywhere was mention of over-current protection, cable size based on load and distance and service disconnect. These are things a surveyor quickly picks up on and rapidly diminish the sale price of a vessel as these issues are usually noted as ‘should be corrected’ and get passed onto insurance companies. Clues like this will have him look to find out if in fact welding cable which isn’t USGC approved. Not trying to get on a soap box but doing it right isn’t that much more difficult and is probably less expensive in the long run.
Chuck
Doing some major plumbing refit work and took apart the laz to get better access and to paint. Found witness marks that indicated leak around the rudder stuffing box flange base, as well as the stuffing box itself. In loosening up the nuts I broke off two of them. They are glassed into the hull. Dug them out and glassed in a couple replacements. Built the area back up with epoxy, creating a flat surface.
http://picasaweb.google.com/SeaDuty424/Boat?feat=directlink
Bedded the whole unit back in with 5200. Dropped the rudder for this project, if you have not done this the shoe at the base of the skeg is threaded for the 4 silicone bronze screws that pass through it. Had to drill them out, the screws wouldn’t turn. Once the thread ends were drilled the screws backed out toward the head end. The bronze shoe casting will be brazed and re-threaded.
Lastly, needed a torch to heat up the shoe to get it off. It was bedded with a healthy amount of silicone as was the rudder stuffing box.Chuck
http://www.boatpartsinfo.com/engine-rotation.html
On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 9:44 PM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Engine rotation is almost always expressed as the direction it rotates when
looking at the front of the engine – in other words with the auxiliary
equipment end, in our case, the alternator and water pump. It is as if
you’ve opened the hood of your car and looked at the engine.Just like the starboard side of a boat is always the side to the right when
looking forward.The W58 rotates in the counter-clockwise direction.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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Engine ‘rotation’ is as viewed from behind the engine (the end with the
transmission). The W60 rotates clockwise. Would bet your W58 does too.On Tue, May 18, 2010 at 3:24 PM, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
Agreed, but the clutch on it does care. The leaf springs should run in
such a way that they are in tension rather than compression.Now though I am also wondering if I have the tranny set correctly for the
rotation…Pete
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The suggestion for PVC was associated with head plumbing. If you don’t
winterize your head yes you could split a PVC pipe, as well as a holding
tank, head pump, flexible plumbing….The only product that should be installed on a sea cock below the water line
or a thru hull that has the potential to sink the boat is J2006E rated hose.Chuck
On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 9:02 PM, Rich Carter <> wrote:
Water backed up in the pipe. This is pretty easy to happen if water settles
in the pipe. I used PVC many years ago to replace a cocpit drain hose (not
a Pearson). I went out sailing one day to find water running into my bilge
when the boat heeled over. The drain hose was shattered above the water
line.Yes, PVC pipe is used in home construction, but the homes are heated. A
cold night here in the northeast can freeze standing water here in the
northeast unless your boat is heated.Fresh-water would be more of a problem.
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Jim, fabricate a mast step out of G10/Garolite. Won’t corrode. The mast
will always have some sort of leakage into the bilge. Makes no sense to put
something back down there that will react to water, salt or fresh.Chuck
On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 3:28 PM, James Roberts <>wrote:
On the same survey the steel mast step had a lot of corrosion and must be
replaced. I plan on using aluminum to replace it._______________________________________________
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We use Sea Land Odor safe with excellent results. I’ve replaced runs of
Shields that were about 5 years old due to permeation. This wasn’t
necessarily an issue with the hose but more with the design of the system
that allowed waste to stand in the hose.Any place you can put schedule 40 PVC instead of hose makes a world of
difference.Chuck
On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 12:51 PM, kalinowski <>wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with Poly X sanitation hose? Is it very
flexible? I’m about ready to wrestle with the head-to-tank hose and replace
it. This is supposed to be the best out there, but at $18.69/ft (West) is
it all it’s “pumped” up to be?Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Interesting thread as it went from bottom coat to the inability to urinate.
Rinse it down with water to remove any dust before applying the first
barrier coat.A cleaning solvent wouldn’t hurt but isn’t needed.
Chuck
On Sun, May 9, 2010 at 9:34 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Wax, what wax? There can’t possibly be wax on the bottom of the boat after
32 years. Maybe if it were new… Am I missing something here?I hate working with Acetone. I think it pretty toxic. If I can avoid the
stuff I’ll feel more secure.What do you think guys, can I skip the acetone wipe-down?
Rich
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Interlux’s web site has some great information on this process.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/default.asp
The reference guide;
http://www.yachtpaint.com/USA/hotlinks/fiberglass_paintguide.pdfThe number of coats isn’t as important, a thickness of 10 mils is. Thin nap
means more coats, but any painter will tell you many thin coats is better
than a few thick. No need to tip. The product come in white as well as
gray. Alternate colors on coats is a cool trick to track your progress.The first coat of barrier coat will show you all the spots you missed on the
clean up. Sand the spots, fair and sand, then move on with the barrier
coat. I think you have up to two weeks between coats of barrier coat before
you have to sand to get a good bond. The sooner the better.The first coat of bottom paint should go on when you press your thumb to the
barrier coat and it leaves a print but doesn’t stick to your thumb (still
tacky).Prep is key for a successful job.
Chuck.
On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 8:38 AM, wrote:
I’ve hired a contractor to soda-blast the bottom of my boat and I’m
planning to put on a barrier-coat this summer. I don’t have many blisters,
but I have some spider-web cracks below the water line in the gelcoat on one
side of the boat. I’m currently planning to put on 4 coats of interlux
interprotect barrier coat. I’d appreciate comments from those who have been
down this path.What I’ve learned so far is that I should plan to put these costs on
successively, one or two coats each day as time permits so that I can avoid
sanding between coats. I should also get the first coat of bottom paint on
before the last coat of barrier coat hardens.I plan to roll the stuff on with a short-nap roller. I don’t know if
tipping is advised. Painting will be done when the weather forecast is clear
and temperatures will be in the 70’s .. 80’s F.Rich
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Sea Duty has the life raft mounted center line about midway between the boom
hatch and the dodger.Chuck
Hal Sutphen told me he put his raft on the sea hood for the forward
companionway – another possibility. I assume he then thru-bolted the sea
hood. Chuck Ruble might be able to confirm that._______________________________________________
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