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*Grounded*, the negative side of the DC system. Main Negative bus should be
a terminal strip and not the engine block.*Grounding*, the vessel bonding system which is tied to the main negative
bus at a single location. These are NOT load carrying conductors.*AC Grounding* bus (the green wire) is also connected to the main negative
bus.*AC Neutral* is only connected to AC ground at the power source.
I can’t offer theory or what if’s, this is straight from E11. Let me know
if I got any of it wrong.Chuck
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 10:11 PM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Maybe, Pat, but he and I were talking specifically about the separation of
the green-wire ground from the black-wire ground at the time. I believe
that’s what he was referring to when he made that statement. But then again
all this is magic to me, so who knows?Tor
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http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Tor, you can stand next to the guy while he’s doing it, provided you have
ear protection….On Sun, Apr 11, 2010 at 2:49 PM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Chuck,What is “the farrow system”?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Velvet Drive?
On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 8:29 AM, Don Barber wrote:
I have a v-drive and a trans. for sae came from a 1981 pearson
Don Barber
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2400 that Rich stated is about right. That’s what a yard might charge for
the paint removal process.
If you want a full quote on a complete bottom job I can offer that up as
well as provide photos of various completed jobs throughout the process.
I’m starting a 49′ trawler tomorrow. When it’s all done will probably be
around 11K provided no surprises.On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 6:18 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Very interesting – I read about it. What does it cost?
Bob
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The cracks are probably from a hard spot. Knocking on the area offers a
solid response, not hollow sounding at all. I’ll sand down to the glass and
see what is beneath before coming up with a method of repair. They are
about an inch in width from top to bottom and run about 4 feet, parallel to
the sole I think. The cracks are the symptom, not the problem. I’ll
probably not get to carried away with the repair though as I’ve started a
number of projects this spring and hope to have them all done before
Memorial Day. An honest fix would be correcting the hard spot and that
would probably involve taking the V-berth apart. This is all speculative.Looks like #27 had some blisters (nothing major) back in the day, repaired
then the application of a barrier coat looks to have slowed down or
prevented any more. I’ll let her dry out a month or so before tackling the
bottom. The plan is to correct the many blemishes, apply the first app of
barrier coat, fair the hull smooth and build the barrier coat back to 10
mils. Going with ablative rather than hard this time.The farrow system was amazing in the fact I could stand next to the guy and
watch the process. When the sand blaster is here I try to stay in the
office, it really is that bad. The surrounding boats all need cleaning.
This was not the case this time. We’re sold on the results. It really
wasn’t that much more expensive but noticeably slower.Rich price in hand sanding. Figure on hitting the entire hull with some
60/80 grit after it is blasted. The finish left by the Farrow system
(volcanic ash is the media) is smooth and closer to a ready to paint surface
than what sand blasting does, sand roughs it up. Soda is almost too
smooth. They all need sanding to do a proper job.Chuck
On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 2:41 PM, wrote:
Chuck
I have similar cracks on my hull on one side…._______________________________________________
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Are the eyebrows only aesthetic? If so it would seem removing it and
filling the holes with epoxy and gel coat would be the functional solution,
no?On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 4:56 PM, Alan wrote:
My port eyebrow (already had been recaulked) leaked on the way to Bermuda
last October.
— On Sun, 3/21/10, Lee Yonkers wrote:_______________________________________________
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The beauty of the older diesel's is that in a worst case scenario the engine once started will still run without 12VDC.
The location of the inlet/outlets isn't critical as long as you have them plumbed into the system correctly. The dimensions of the mechanical arm is critical. Do they look the similar?
What is the part information you have for both pumps, and does the new box have any manufacturing information on it, like who made it?
Chuck
On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 8:58 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Adam,
If by lift pump you mean the pump that primes the high pressure pump you can use an automotive 12v pump and just plumb it the best way you can. If it's a mechanical pump on the W60, just bypass it with the electric one that's energized with the ignition key.
Cost: $50. Maybe less at Auto Zone or someplace like that.
Bob
On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 11:42 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I ordered a fuel lift pump from a local dealer for my Westerbeke 60, and after 3 months it finally came in. Its part no was one number off, and the position of the fuel lines was different.
Has anyone ordered or installed a fuel lift pump and have any advice?
Thanks,
Adam
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Pearson 424 Hull #8
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That is what 95% of the boats coming through the yard have, usually high up
in the cabinet so still visible above the mounds of earthly possessions
jammed into every available void on the boat.On Thu, Feb 11, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Guys-
I used stick on big, bold black vinyl letters and then used epoxy over
them.. You can put them anywhere on the hull behind a cabinet, etc.Rodd Leeds
Windseeker, #214
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I don’t think there’s a CV joint in the V-Drive. I think that the input
side is a double U-joint.The input is splined, it should offer some movement for and aft. I have a
copy of the V-Drive manual in a PDF if you need it.Chuck
On Sun, Feb 7, 2010 at 12:40 PM, Pan Dragon <> wrote:
Thanks so much for your replies,
Must be the CV joint.
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Patrick, you can’t align it while it is out of the water. The boat has to
sit in the water for at least 24 hours. Snug it up and don’t run it hard
until you get it aligned.2 hours trying not to damage a piece of rusted metal that won’t release from
the shaft
Bead blasting and painting, another hour plus materials
Machining/mating the old coupling to the new shaft 40 bucks
Finding out from the machinist that it isn’t usable… pricelessIt seems about every other customer insists on going this route. I suggest
that I let the techs cut the shaft (it’s being replaced anyway), toss the
coupling and for about $100 bucks you get a brand new coupling provided by
the machinist that is fit to the shaft and machine faced.Chuck
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 9:02 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick
Proper alignment of the V-drive is essential for vibration free operation.
Alignment to the engine is pretty forgiving, but the shaft must be true to
the coupling. If you didn’t muck with the V-drive when replacing the shaft
there is every reason to assume that it is still aligned. In theory you
should be able to reinstall the new shaft and be good to go with no
alignment. You’ll know if you are out of alignment because the boat will
vibrate at cruising speed. It is normal for some vibration in the cabin sole
next to the engine, but you should not hear cabinet doors rattle nor should
you feel it in the seat of your pants when sitting in the cockpit.A common problem that may be encountered with alignment is a bent flange on
the coupling. This can happen if the mechanic gets aggressive with tools
when separating the coupling from the shaft or removing the shaft from the
coupling. As long as you are pulling the shaft I suggest having the coupling
checked. If the coupling is bent, the flange on the V-drive may also be
bent. In this case you are basically screwed. It is possible to shim a bent
flange, but its non-trivial. Instructions for checking alignment are
published in the Walter V-drive manual.Regards
Rich
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http://www.boatgears.net/Walter_V-Drive_Tips.html
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 7:30 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Typically, you’d treat the prop shaft on a v-drive exactly as you would on
any shaft – it should be in-line with the output shaft and not cocked. So,
yes, you should gap it.Bob
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 2:15 AM, Patrick Walters <
wrote:
I got my shiny new prop shaft back in the boat and snugged it all up and
I’m curious do I need to be checking the tigtness is perfectly even usinga
gap tool or is visually even close enough?
Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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The big nut does the work and should be next to the prop. The smaller nut is a lock nut, tightened down against the larger propeller nut. The entire assembly is prevented from spinning off with a cotter pin. Some configurations don't have a lock nut but a large castle nut for the prop with a cotter pin run through that.
Double zincs are cheap insurance.
Chuck
On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 10:00 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Tor and the group-
I noticed in your close up of the prop that you placed the larger nut closest to the prop. I have always placed the smaller nut closer to the prop. Can anyone chime in if there is any difference or doesn't it really matter?? Also, what is up with the double zincs?
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You can, the spare seal(s) is protected by a bearing carrier. You remove the carrier and slip a 'hat' on the shaft and the seal is slid in place. The hat protects the seal in transit. They look like little hats hence the name. Ideally this would be done out of the water. They are not on there for 'emergency' reasons but so that the shaft doesn't have to be pulled away from the coupling to replace the seal. Separating a 70 pound coupling from a 2.5 inch shaft isn't a cheap date, I put them back together with 3 spares, not one as they usually show up with.
C
On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 6:07 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Looks like you could carry several spare lip seals (bellows as you refer to them) on the shaft if you wanted. That's not too shabby.
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Patrick, consider the condition of the shaft, current alignment and can you separate the coupler from the shaft. What I see often is a worn shaft that won't come out of the coupling. The easy solution is to cut it. Don''t waste the time fighting with it. A new 1.5 inch Aquamet 22 shaft, 4″ coupler, cut less and associated machining will be around 3K installed.
If the shaft shows wear spec it. Anything past .003 is out of tolerance. I attached a close of up a worn shaft that exhibits crevice corrosion. These usually snap when they get thrown into a hard reverse situation. The end view displays how far down inside the shaft the problem really was.
I've seen both types, the PYI product requires proper alignment more so than the Sure Seal. The PYI will leak if there is a problem with alignment at the outset. The Sure Seal will not leak initially but will wear out prematurely if not properly aligned.
If you go with the Sure Seal get an extra bearing carrier or two and you can pre-load new seals on the shaft, allowing them to be moved down the shaft and into place without removing the shaft. I had a PYI on my last boat and was very happy with it.
I'm thinking of replacing my box and maybe adding an aquadrive into the mix. Proper shaft prep is key on either install.Lastly, ABYC does not recognize the graphite flax. Dissimilar metals. Use traditional or teflon flax if you stick with the old box.
Chuck
On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 6:48 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I have a pretty traditional looking stuffing box and I'm curious if any of you have upgradedswapped out to a newer dripless type seal or if you have any particular comments about that.
I have the shaft out so at a minimum I'm going to repack it and I figure if it's worth upgrading now would be the time, but as with everything I'm interested in hearing the pros and cons from any who have gone before.
Thanks,
-p—-
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Pete, I think it is a Velvet Drive unit. It is a 1:1 ratio.
On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 7:17 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I guess I should modify this question… I thought the tranny was a 71C. It is a B-W unit, but it is only about 12″ from end to end. The data I find on the 71C shows them at around 17″. So exactly what tranny were the W58 424's fitted with? (my hull is 165).
Thanks,
Pete
Pete Dubler wrote:
Does anyone know if the Borg-Warner Transmission installed on the W58 424's is a 1.00 ratio or other ration?
There is no ID plate on mine.
Thanks,
Pete
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