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@Patrick_DeepPlaya wrote:
I’m curious what you all think about the blower, if you have one and how you use it in the operation of your vessel.
Just realized I should search the forum first and there are all the answers… some have ’em, some don’t and yes some do run them when the motor is running, and I even said it might be useful when you’re charging the batteries….
So much information available if I just look for it. 😉
-p
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Replying to this olde thread because now that the sun is ocassionally popping out in Seattle, I’m going to be installing a set of nicro vents on my stern rail replacing the plastic air scoops with plastic tube inside that created sort of a dorade.
I just realized though that in order to do this I’ll have to remove the blower fan. A blower isn’t really a necesary pre-start procedure on a diesel, but I saw some other model Pearson owners were running their blowers for cooling while the engine was running if it was particularly hot.
I’m curious what you all think about the blower, if you have one and how you use it in the operation of your vessel.
Thanks!
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Guys at the yard, where I acquire my half-used cans (they seem to “buy a
can” for every boat then leave them around) call it Barnacle Ban, that might
have been it’s former name.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Apr 23, 2011 at 5:15 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:From what I’ve now read about this Zinc Barnacle Barrier stuff, its
primary purpose is to act as a sacrificial anode for the metal on which
it’s applied. (That in itself strikes me as a good reason to use it.)
All it is is spray-on zinc. Therefore, the “barnacle barrier” part is a
misnomer. It doesn’t “bar” barnacles as copper would, but it might
unship them as the zinc “self-cleans under way (sic).” In other words,
as the zinc breaks down and flakes off, the barnacles lose their grip
and fall off, too. At least, that’s what I’m deducing from the following
product promo blurb:“Zinc Coat forms an excellent adhesive bond to underwater metals and
running gear and inhibits corrosion on these surfaces. Properly applied,
Pettit Zinc Coat Barnacle Barrier yields a smooth, hard surface that
self-cleans under way.”I vote to rename that product “Zinc Barnacle Ejector.” Maybe moving the
boat once in a while enhances the barnacle-ejection effect, but I’m
guessing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here is my setup:
2 – 1-1/2″ Shaft zincs
Prop, prop strut, and bottom of the keel skeg (gudgeon ??) were cleaned,
prepped and painted with Pettit Zinc Barnacle Barrier
http://pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=226As well as the Zincs internal to the boat:
* Pencil zinc in the heat exchanger
* Large rod zinc in the Raritan water heaterWe also hang a zinc fish off the standing rigging when in the marina.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Apr 22, 2011 at 11:35 AM, Herbc wrote:
We are hauled for a bottom job, how does everyone zinc up. Double on the
props, have none on the rudder but see some on other boats in the yard.
there is a bolt without a zinc about mid hull. Any tips greatly appreciated.
my zincs are all gone.Also want to yank the paddle wheel. The grounding plate looks like crap,
but what do I know, never had one before.And for now the last bottom question, kinda, 5/16 shaft packing?
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have an 80lb Yamaha F8 Fourstroke on my stern pulpit mounted as you
mention. Pics and a write up on that here: http://deepplaya.com/?p=129If you want to do a similar project, note that the pulpit is curved..
I didn’t account for that when I was building this at the shop and had to
remove more material to make that “T” fit properly on the pulpit.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 11:44 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Quote:I have a 112 pound 25hp two stroke mounted on the pushpit. It has been on
for 15 years now with no problems. I placed the teak mount at the cross
between where the rais and welded vertical stachion meet. 3 u-bolts hold
the teak mount in place. I use a forspar rig to lower the engine onto the
rib (12 ft Caribe).Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Curious… why is the collar being “worked” so that that the bond is
breaking? Is the deck flexing a lot or is your mast rubbing the collar? Mast
shouldn’t rub and the deck flexing should be controlled by the compression
post forward of the mast. OR, maybe it’s not mechanical “working” causing
the issue and you have some contamination that is preventing it from
bonding?If it needs more mechanical give then I’d go with something you can build up
and set it in like a gasket and I’d get rid of the screws and instead
through bolt the collar with big fender washers or maybe even a full backing
plate. It would have to be in two pieces or installed with the mast out if
not.Just some ideas… hope they help!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 6:21 AM, wrote:
Quote:Pat
The problem I have is that the caulking seal around the collar breaks,
allowing water to leak under the collar. I don’t know yet if it gets into
the screw holes and won’t find out until I dig out the rotted wood to see
how deep it goes. I’ve typically used polysulfide and I’ve tried silicone
sealant. I might try something different this time. I used Dicor RV lap
sealant on my chainplates a few years back and it seems to be holding up
very well. I use this on our camper to seal the roof seams. Dicor remains
flexible. I have a few tubes left over from the last time I renewed the
seams on our camper deck. Its not marine and I feel guilty not paying the
marine premium when I use it. Butyl rubber tape might also be a good choice
as long as the screws are set with caulk.http://www.dicor.com/Product.aspx?ID=12
Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Sounds like a solid plan to me!
When our mast was out we removed all the old gelcoat that was lining the
mast partner because it was cracked. We sanded it all down and slowly
layered up epoxy over a couple of days.– http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4534153696/in/photostream
– http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4556329386/in/photostream
– http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/4555700775/in/photostream
– http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5634040092/in/photostreamNot sure you can see it clearly, but believe me that thing is SMOOOOOTH. We
did this in preparation for installing spartite which we’ve yet to do yet.
I’m still not happy with how the mast is lined up in the mast partner (it
sits way off to starboard and forward).-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 6:08 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
I’m not getting any younger and neither is the boat. I am getting ready to
launch the boat and noticed that there is what I hope is minor deck rot
around the mast hole. I first noticed water on the cabin sole around the
mast step. Closer inspection showed wet and soft wood inside the deck.
The
deck has a plywood sandwitch around the mast hole, not balsa.I pull the mast each winter so inspection of the inside of the hole is
easy.
I’ve seen water penetration before but never had rot. I try to keep up
with
it so its never gotten serious. The mast works against the mast collar and
tends to break the caulk seal over time. Every year or two I’ve had to
pull
the deck ring and rebed it. For those of you who don’t pull your mast, you
might consider recaulking the deck ring every couple of years. It could be
done with the mast in place. If you have water leaking down the side of the
mast near the table for some time, you may have rot too.An inspection of the deck core shows soft, wet wood at the first laminate.
Lower laminates appear dryer and in better shape. Its hard to see how far
the rot progresses. My guess would be about an inch, hopefully less.
Unlike rotted balsa, rotted plywood requires a cutting tool to remove. My
plan is to remove the deck ring and run a router around the inside of the
hole using a biscuit joiner bit. This will cut a groove about 1/8″ thick
and 3/4″ deep. This should remove most if not all the rot. If it
progresses more I may have to take more drastic action that may include a
deeper cutting tool. I’ll let it dry, possibly spraying in boric acid
first. I’ll cut teak strips to lay in the slot using a waterproof wood
adhesive such as liquid nails. Then I’ll run a laminate bit around the
inside of the hole to trim it out.Here’s a link to my previous deck-rot project for those who haven’t read
it.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/Rich
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I dont’ have complete drawings, there are several weird angles that are
easiest to figure out by making a template. This writeup and pic aren’t
from the nav station but you get the idea:http://deepplaya.com/?p=283
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5516506345/in/photostreamSome general dimensions;
The inboard end of the box is 16″ H x 14″ W. The top is 36.5″ long on the
aft edge and 37″ L on the edge along the bulkhead…. The front panel is a
mess of angles and dimensions that are best made from a template. I’ll do a
how-to post this week after I take some more pics today.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 3:38 AM, Joe Shimkonis wrote:
I luv it. I now have a new project.Do you have drawings and or dimensions
for the bench seat/tool box.It really is a great place for tools and cleans
up the space nicely.Sent from my iPad
On Apr 16, 2011, at 11:51, “Patrick “Peaboy” Walters” <
> wrote:Finished the nav seat and desk this week, it’s nice to have things going
together instead of coming apart… 😉http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/5623329453/
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Nice to hear about your progress and congratulations on getting back in the
water!-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 3:00 PM, kalinowski wrote:
After a month in the yard (and thus missing the wrath of the tsunami), Lady
Leanne II has splashed. Her bottom was peeled, faired, 4 coats of barrier,
and 2 coats of bottom paint. The new Tack Tick transducers were mounted
along with repainted hull stripes, new prop, new PSS, new
anchors/rodes/windlass and new cutless bearing. All the cushions were
reupholstered. With the hull buff, she looks great.Her old marina was totally destroyed by the tsunami and we sailed her
around O’ahu to her new berth at Ko Olina on the leeward side. Now to
repair the damage to my AMEX.Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It’s still there and is completely devoted to elctronics, and wiring at this
point. Some tools may end up in there as well. The desk lifts off very easy
and the monitor (the larger one in that pic) is attached to the locker door.
The door swings open just fine with the monitor on it. I dont’ even want to
think about how many hours I spent looking for a monitor that had a 12VDC
power supply (after the AC adapter), would fit in that space AND was
compatible with standard VESA wall mounts.That laptop will actually go away as well along with all those cables you
see evrywhere. The locker will soon hold a 12VDC computer made by Aleutia.I’ll do a write up about the PC, along with more pics of how the desk
removes, and all that for the blog.Today we put up the new headliner in the aft salon… ah progress!
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 7:43 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Very nicely done. What happened to your aft locker at the nav station?
On 4/16/2011 9:51 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
Finished the nav seat and desk this week, it’s nice to have things going
together instead of coming apart… 😉http://www.flickr.com/photos/26558453@N03/5623329453/
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Rich you are correct, Washington is such a state. But the dinghy may ONLY be
used or transport from ship to shore, no fishing or crabbing for instance.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 5:17 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:I understand that in some states, a dink need not be registered if she is
marked T/T. This may be a myth since I’ve never found a state that
complies
with this practice. IMHO, a dinghy name should complement the mothership.
This can be a challenge if you have a name that doesn’t lend itself to this
kind of thing.Rich
BlackSheep – #47
LambChop – dinghyQuote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I got several quotes over the past year and a half (summary of each
enclosed). In the end, I went with Puget Sound Sails on the recommendation
of someone who bought from Carol Hasse and Puget Sound Sails and now regrets
having spent the money on Hasse after seeing Jim’s work.Puget Sound Sails has a 10% off now through June…
http://printmecoupon.com/Coupons/27020/Puget-Sound-Sails-LynnwoodMy sails arrive in May so I can’t tell you anything specific about them yet.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Apr 13, 2011 at 8:16 PM, Herbc wrote:
Hello all,
Getting ready for the season up here in the NW and a main sail and mizzen
are at the top of the list. Got a couple of quotes already and the question
I’d like some help with is how heavy is your sails.8.62 and 9.62 are the options from one loft. So, whats on your mast?
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Doh… we got sucked into that one…!
I had a new guy start for me yesterday and today I was sending out his
welcome aboard email to everyone… I took a lot of liberties in describing
his professional background… 😉-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 3:28 PM, quent wrote:
No bullets. Did my time at the stupid war de jour in the late 1960s and
have not been a fan of bullets since. Did sell half my load to a guy who
makes fishing lures last year. Apparently lead is either expensive if in
convenient packages, or almost free if not convenient, like wheel balancing
weights, and old sailboat keels.
Anyway, the deal expires in a few hours, after that you will all have to
take your chances regarding stability in high salinity water because the
deal was only good on April 1st!
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!My boat when to the S. Pacific and back from San Francisico and then up
Puget Sound and Alaska with no additional ballast except maybe the previous
owner! ZING! 😉-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 2:15 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
I’m with Joe. The 424 has successfully sailed around the world, and most
recently to Australia and New Zealand. Take the lead to a recycler for the
money. Lead’s up now because we need to make bullets.I’m pretty sure John Stevenson and Tor don’t have any aboard.
Bob
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 8:03 AM, quent wrote:
Bought the lead a few years ago from a guy who decided to lighten up his
centerboard equipped Bristol. I guess he was headed north to the Great
Lakes.
Are you all sure that you want to take a chance? There is some largewind
and waves in the tropics.
Act fast, this is a one day special deal!
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!When I refinished my spars I put a longer track on the mast and I stowe it
vertically there.If ever needed I’ll last it to the stanchions where the PO stored
it exclusively, but it’s annoyingly under foot there.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 3:22 PM, cstewart wrote:
Are there any best places for storing a whisker pole on the 424? I am
keeping my pole from my old boat (Pearson 323) and plan to use it on my new
424. The pole is a 12-22′, 3.5″ aluminum and was oversize for the 323. On
the old boat it was chocked on deck, but was always in the way. I’ve seen a
couple of 424’s that have them chocked on the bow toe rail outside the
stanchions. Before I drill holes I would appreciate any suggestions.
Charlie Stewart
“OneEighty”, hull#53 (formerly Melange)
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
