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Sorry if this is a stupid question…
Do you think it should be working and its not or you would like suggestions
on a setup that will work?-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 12:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I was able to see considerable difference in mast bend using just the
lowers… It’s not all backstay… 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 12:18 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:This is a matter of experience. I adjust the rig so that the uppers are
tighter than the lowers and the mast is straight and plum as measured using
the main halyard pulled out to each rail. I then sail the boat. In a
normal breeze about 15kts, the lee shrouds should be loose but not flopping
in the beeze. Resist the temptation of tightening the loose lowers when
under way.With a mizzen, you’ll never be able to get sufficient backstay tension to
bend the main mast. Just get it straight. If you have a sloop or cutter
with a backstay tensioner you can bend the mast and get the boat to point
up
about 10 more degrees.Rich
Quote:
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Here’s a brief bit oin Tuning from Brion that I had a PDF of.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 12:01 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:For an initial tune I think it’s worth the money to have a rigger come out.
Somethings you need to look for off the top of my head (and not complete):1. Masthead centered (use a tape on the halyard to measure)
2. Proper mastbend
3. Main mast proper fore and aft
4. Mizzen aligned to the centered main
5. Mizzen fore aft properOne key thing to note if you mast is stepped incorrectly even a 1/2″ off it
will through things way out, so you will want to be near a crane for the
tune. My main mast is stepped slightly off and now my mast is WAY too close
to the partner (hole in the deck). I’m going to have to go to the crane and
fix that still.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:37 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter.
There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck),
but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among
others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail).
I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug,tight,
etc. Thanks Jim
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!For an initial tune I think it’s worth the money to have a rigger come out.
Somethings you need to look for off the top of my head (and not complete):1. Masthead centered (use a tape on the halyard to measure)
2. Proper mastbend
3. Main mast proper fore and aft
4. Mizzen aligned to the centered main
5. Mizzen fore aft properOne key thing to note if you mast is stepped incorrectly even a 1/2″ off it
will through things way out, so you will want to be near a crane for the
tune. My main mast is stepped slightly off and now my mast is WAY too close
to the partner (hole in the deck). I’m going to have to go to the crane and
fix that still.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:37 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter. There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck), but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail).
I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug, tight,
etc. Thanks Jim_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I really want to get a tri-fuel modified unit, but at that price it woudl
make sense to buy from the other place and then get the tr-fuel manifold
seperately ($180). I wonder if I can get the tri-fuel guys to do a group
purchase deal.
http://www.generatorsales.com/order/Honda-EU2000i-Tri-fuel.asp?page=EU2000i_Tri_FuelI think I’ll ask.
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
If anyone has been considering buying a Honda 2000 this looks like the best
deal I have seen:Honda Generator Group Buy – First Annual Event
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 10:41 AMFirst Annual Honda Generator Group Buy! Ends 3/18 at 3PM EST
We’ve just launched our First Annual Honda Generator Group Buy. See the
prices below. These are the best prices you’ll ever see on a new super
quiet Honda generator. Here’s how it works. Since we are not allowed to
post our sale prices online, you’ll have to phone (866.735.5926) in your
order by 3PM on Friday 3/15. Once the orders are in we will finalize the
order with Honda, and request delivery. We will have the generators in our
warehouse by the end of next week and will ship them out.EU1000i – 1kW – $689 – plus $29 shipping
EU2000i – 2kW – $869 – plus $37 shipping
EU2000i Companion – 2kW w/30 Amp Outlet – $955 plus $37 shipping
EU3000i Handi – 3kW – $1980 – plus $72 shipping
EU3000iS – 3kW – $1788 plus $120 Shipping
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I need to do this too, but to remove the numbers and put on T/T Deep Playa.
I think the best way to go is to glue on a strip of Hypalon and then put the
lettersnumbers on top.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 3:04 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Well, I finally changed the registration of my boats (Sarah and the dinghy)
from MD to FL. It wasn’t entirely voluntary. The FL DNR and State Police
vessels go by my berth on the Ortega Rive several times a week. They keep
looking my way. My guess it won’t be long before they inquire about my
registration.
Anyway, that deed is done, both vessels are registered in FL. No problem
for Sarah, I just cover the MD sticker on the mast with the FL one. The
dinghy is another matter. I need to replace the MD registration numbers
with the ones for FL.
My dinghy is an AB Hypalon RIB and the current numbers were painted on with
that stuff WM sells. I don’t think it will come off, it has stood up to 8
years of Sun and water. My initial thought is to paint over the numbers
with black (same color as the numbers), then stencil in the new numbers in
white. My problem is what type of paint to use to cover the old numbers.
I
can’t see using the same paint for that purpose, it would take several of
those little expensive jars to do the job. Any suggestions on what will
stick to Hypalon?—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!What group was this from?
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
If anyone has been considering buying a Honda 2000 this looks like the best
deal I have seen:Honda Generator Group Buy – First Annual Event
Tuesday, March 15, 2011 10:41 AMFirst Annual Honda Generator Group Buy! Ends 3/18 at 3PM EST
We’ve just launched our First Annual Honda Generator Group Buy. See the
prices below. These are the best prices you’ll ever see on a new super
quiet Honda generator. Here’s how it works. Since we are not allowed to
post our sale prices online, you’ll have to phone (866.735.5926) in your
order by 3PM on Friday 3/15. Once the orders are in we will finalize the
order with Honda, and request delivery. We will have the generators in our
warehouse by the end of next week and will ship them out.EU1000i – 1kW – $689 – plus $29 shipping
EU2000i – 2kW – $869 – plus $37 shipping
EU2000i Companion – 2kW w/30 Amp Outlet – $955 plus $37 shipping
EU3000i Handi – 3kW – $1980 – plus $72 shipping
EU3000iS – 3kW – $1788 plus $120 Shipping
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!It’s a stepped bolt. The yard cut one end off to get it out. I went with a
sleeve over a bolt on rebuild.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 4:26 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I have managed to get all the hardware off my masts except for the bolt
that holds the lower shroud tangs. The bolt will not come out. It will
turn, but so far I have not been able to drive it out.It appears the bolt is stepped at the threaded end to keep the mast from
being compressed. Is that actually a stepped bolt or is there a metal
sleeve on the bolt that is stuck in place. If so, how have others gotten
this out? As you can see, I have been bathing the bolt in PB Blaster (from
both sides), so far without any results. (Also as you can see, from the
picture, I got rained out today).Picture: http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/tang_bolt.JPG
Thanks,
Pete
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!Interesting threads:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-maintenance/58724-propane-demand-water-heater.html
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/printthread.php?t=47273 (Our very own
Jack chimes in on this one)Without thinking about this too deeply if it has no pilot (the only thing
I’d consider) then it’s going to need some power to light. Venting will be a
concern of course. Maybe build another “propane” locker in the aft starboard
cockpit (my propane is aft to port) and enclose it there to both vent it and
handle leaks…-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 3:41 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Quote:You can also get 12V coils for a HWH. These are often used as a sink for
excess wind or solar power. Some HWHs allow for multiple sets of heating
coils.Pete
On 3/12/2011 11:31 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:The 120 amp DC will run the inverter which heats the water. My 2000 watt
Honda will heat the water. 120 amp @ 12V is 12 amp at 120V (approx 1440
watts). Your heater may be rated at 1500 watts, but doesn’t really draw
that. You could try it – the worst that would happen is you’d pop a
breaker, if there’s one on the generator.On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 1:22 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Bob,
Quote:My generator is a 120 AMP DC unit. I doubt I can find a 12 volt DC water
heater.
The Kubota generator does not produce much hot water. I have never seen
water
temps above 110 degrees.lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I have note, but I love a good research project. You thinking of a propane
model or an AC model for use at the dock?-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 9:33 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Has anyone installed a tankless water heater? We are spending more and
more
time away from the dock and the admiral misses her showers and hot water to
wash
the dishes.lee
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!I’ve yet to design my solent completely, but yes I envision it at 100% or
less. Interesting idea of using the puplits for a block…Sounds like it’s possible to make this all work though.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 3:49 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
How big is your solent? If less than 100%, then you can move the pulpits
back a few inches and mount your tracks between the outside and forward
leg.
I had a similar problem with my staysail and now use the legs of the
pulpits
for the sheet attachments.Bob
On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 12:53 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:It got cold and I didn’t finish (pronounced start) mounting my mast
pulpits.
I’ve had a sail maker ad I’ve been thinking about the solent stay thesails
I might fly form there…
Soooo….. I think the elephant on my foredeck is that there’s no way to
mount the t-track for the solent sail on the cabin top AND have mast
pulpits….Am I wrong? Does anyone out there have both?
Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!you can see Silver Heel’s setup here:
http://selfsteer.com/boats/view.php?boatTypeID=1650-p
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 5, 2011, at 5:10, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All!
Well, I’ve sold my Monitor wind vane (thanks to Patrick I got a great
price), and have ordered and received my davits and solar panel.Here’s my question – how far apart should the davits be, or, where have you
put yours with respect either to the center of the stern rail or the
uprights? Do you also have a stern ladder?Thanks for any info you can provide.
By the way, the best deal I could get for the davits were from Martek in
Florida where their davits with the bottom fitting and backing plates and
rail mounting hardware were $1098 (1.25″ tubing, 300lb rating for each arm)
– they provided free shipping for products over $1000 (saving $79) plus $100
off so that the total price was $998. I got the lifting gear from Garhauer
for $350 because it’s prettier than the Ronstan stuff Martek and comes with
everything (Martek charges for the blocks – $200, lines $150, and rail
mounted cam cleats $90). Garhauer provides the whole six part tackle with
the rail mounted cam cleats.I purchased the solar panel, a 12V, 135 watt Kyocera with shipping was $470
from Northern Arizona Wind & Sun. Unbelievable how much solar panels have
come down!Although Martek supplies cross members (stabilizer bars), I purchased
fittings from Marine Parts Depot who supplies good SS fittings at very low
prices, and I’ll get the tubing from the metals place, Vulcan Metals, near
me, where you purchase metal by the pound. Very reasonable.I’ll be providing pictures as the project continues.
Thanks for any measurements you can provide!
Bob
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s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!OK, sounds like there isn’t any usable space not already accessible under
the aft berth then.Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 2:18 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Patrick,
I have the same 3 lockers under the bunk. The middle one is where my
6-gallon water heater is located. My AC frig compressor is in the aft one.
The aft locker is next to the engine.On Fri, Feb 25, 2011 at 4:58 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:Not counting the two drawers under the the bunk that I converted to
cabinets, I have three accessible areas from under the mattress. One is
outboard and forward, the other two are aft of the two drawercabinet
cavities on the front of the bunk and next to the engine.Do those of you with the water heater under the aft bunk have a fourth
area
just outboard of the two lockers next to the engine?
My water heater is fine where it is in the port lazaretre, but I was
thinking if some of you have found an additional space under the aft bunk
big enough for a water heater, then I need to plan to open up the spacefor
additional storage.
Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!When my shifter cable broke I replaced it with cable that matched what was
there, but I think at 11 feet it’s actually way too long. I had to get the
boat back and running in 24 hours though so I didn’t want to dink around
with trying a shorter cable. I have a W58.
Teleflex Marine TFX CCX63311 – 3300CC TFXTREME CONTROL CABLE, 11FTI started by using a piece of string to measure the length of the cable, if
you think yours is different than mine I’d do that.I also bought a pedestal rebuild kit at the time and replaces all the
bushings and washers. You will have the entire pedestal apart anyway so you
might as well do it. Your pedestal may not match mine.
Edson EDS 314-335 – PEDESTAL REBUILD KITRead the Edson instructions on installing your pedestal.
http://www.edsonmarine.com/support/PDFs/planning/EB381SteeringGuide.pdfYou will need to loosen the cables from the quadrant and disassemble the
top-end of the pedestal completely. You should also find someone to spend
the day with you who has long arms and small hands to help you pick up stuff
you drop in there. OMG, that was a pain…Hope that helps !
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 10:47 AM, Seawater wrote:
does anyone know the length and type of control cables that are used for
the gear shift and fthrottle on the w 60 ? or for that matter, any 424?
One of mine has seized and I would like to buy the new parts before I tear
the old one out.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!This is from the now defunct Pearson Current newsletter and what I had done
on my boat.Q: have a small yacht maintenance business in Gulfport, MS and have the
privilege of taking care of three P424s. I believe all three owners are
members of your Association. One of the owners wants us to beef up the
v-berth to prevent oil canning. I’ve read several articles in The Current on
this problem, but I am not sure if I should lay some thicker glass on the
inside of the hull or seek another solution. I know the shelves and v-berth
need reinforcing where they come in contact with the hull. It seems to me
that the hull is very thin under the shelf down to the v-berth. Any ideas
that you might have would be most helpful. *— Brian Welch
*
A: I would recommend the following between the underside of the shelf and
the top ginof the V-berth:1. Sand the inside of the hull to remove any wax, glue, etc.
1. Apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat in this area. Catalyze the resin for a
slow cure to keep it cool to prevent print through.1. Before the mat cures, wet the panel of 3/8″ thick balsa with resin
that will go against the hull and apply pressure to the balsa for a good
bond. Note that you should taper all 4 edges of the balsa over a width of
2″.)1. After this lay up has cured, apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat and over
this one layer of 1.8 oz. woven roving. This should stiffen the area
considerably.*– Bill Shaw*
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 4:21 PM, jamesminge wrote:
Our local (New Orleans) fiberglass guru came up with a solution (I hope) to
possible oil-canning in the bows for less than $1000. He glassed in on each
side of the hull between the V berth and the bookshelf, a horizontal section
of 3/8″ balsa, roughly 9″ x 78″, layering mat, then mat and bidirectional
woven roving. He opined that anything more would be overkill. Sure hope
he’s right. It was much less expensive than other solutions proposed by
local yards. Comments? Jim_______________________________________________
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
