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  • in reply to: Prop Size? #69831
    madsailor
    Moderator

    On the W58 there's a big pipey looking thing on the starboard side. If the W60 is anything like that it's what you have.

    There is no air cleaner on the W58. Just a big hole to suck air into.

    Hope that helps.

    Bob

    On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 7:25 AM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    OK – this from the stupid questions department –
    Where is the air intake on a W-60? I looked all about the engine and could not find an air filter – or what looked like an air intake.

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    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Mizzen hgt #69829
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Jack, that's correct – but remember the hoist or the length of the halyard is related to the hoist, not the mast height.

    Bob

    On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 9:31 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Jack,

    When I had my mizzen mast down for re-rigging/re-wiring last year, I recorded 30' 1″ from the base to the masthead.

    Tor


    Silver Heels, P-424 #17
    http://www.SilverHeels.us



    Original Message


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    in reply to: Mizzen hgt #69827
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Paul,

    Is that the total mast height or the hoist of the mizzen – to replace the halyard, you'd only need 23 x 2 + a little for the length.

    Bob

    On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 10:18 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Jack:

    Bob's numbers are pretty close. Since mine is lying on the ground (chained to a tree and my boat cradle with a 1 ton chain hoist trying unsuccessfully to remove my mast step) , I was able to measure it and it is exactly 30 ft.

    Paul


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    in reply to: Mizzen hgt #69821
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Jack,

    PY = 23' 0″ (distance from tack to head), EY = 8' 9″ (distance from tack to clew), boom height above deck approximately 6'

    This is from the official Pearson sail plan drawing.

    Bob

    On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 9:33 AM, jack coulter < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Hi Guys: I need to replace the mizzen halyard on MOJO (formerly ICON). Anybody know the mizzen mast hgt? Plenty of stuff the main mast but I can't find any literature on the mizzen. Many Thanks/ Jack
    visit us online @http://www.deatonyachts.com.

    —
    Bob Fine
    Fine Software LLC
    Your data on the web your way. No kidding

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69820
    madsailor
    Moderator

    My boat

    Hull Number: 8
    Offset: No
    Pull stbd while in forward: No
    Walk in astern: Random

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Re: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69805
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hmm, I'll try that on my first outing. I think I can, I think I can, I think I can get to 2700….

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:49 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Exactly right – at 80% – 2700 I SHOULD be able to run
    the engine without it being overloaded (the black
    smoke). Not that I WANT to but I should be able to do
    it. Now that I have the pitch at 12 inches I feel
    better.
    alan

    — Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Hi Adam,

    That seems right. I'm wondering why you'd want to
    run the engine above
    about 2 grand? Sure, the red line is like 3400 rpm,
    at least for the W58,
    and it has been said that diesels 'like' to run at
    80% of their max speed
    (or 2720 for the W58) (which I think is bullcrap,
    mostly because just
    because you can do a thing doesn't mean you should
    do that thing), but with
    any machinery, running slower is probably running
    better.

    Not only that, but it's so noisy at higher speeds…

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:30 AM, adam silverstein
    < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000, fuel

    burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph.

    Speed 6-6 3/4 kn

    -Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)

    On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine”

    < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5

    knots. I can get the

    engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's

    trying to climb out of the

    water. At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon

    per hour. At 2200, it's

    burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed

    of at most a knot isn't

    worth it, I just cruise right along.

    What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel

    consumption?

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P <

    < ([email][/email])>

    ()> wrote:

    I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly

    because I

    thought I should have more engine RPM's before

    the

    engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a

    W58 and

    now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever

    run it

    that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
    alan
    — Syringa <

    < ([email][/email])> ()> wrote:

    Patrick

    Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham!

    I

    have been looking into the prop pull on

    Syringa as

    you know. (This is when the vessel is under

    steady

    steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above)

    (not

    backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft

    is

    off set (if it is it's not much) and should

    not

    account for that much pull. The prop may be

    over

    pitched. I will let you know if or when I

    come up

    with the answer.

    I would like to hear from anyone who has

    changed

    propellers or reduced the pitch.

    Thanks
    Don
    Syringa

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    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Fuel Consumption #69804
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Alan,

    I came up with the numbers (which are very close to yours, by the way, at least before you re-pitched the prop) by filling the tank, running for 10 hours to get somewhere in no wind and then filling the tank again. Believe me, that's not what's going to happen this year as last year when I bought the boat my goal was to empty the three year old fuel as quickly as possible.

    That's not the case this year…

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:37 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Actualy I am rather embarrassed to say “I am not
    sure”.
    The four or five trips I have made up to the 1000
    Islands (about 80 – 90 miles) with this boat, I
    figured I got about 1 to 1&1/4 Gallons/Hr – speed
    around 6.5 to 7 knots RPM's 2200.
    Since Ive repitched the prob last summer, I have not
    taken any long trips – just the 3 mile hike to the
    outlet to sail.
    I havent kept track of the usage.
    At 2500 RPM's the ass end of the boat really gets
    buried and it takes two hands to steer but the 7.5
    knots get's me out the lake sooner. At 5$ a gallon
    I'll be more careful in the future.
    I wished there was a better way to guess fuel
    consumption. Motoring a couple of miles and then
    heading back to the fuel dock on Sodus Bay is PITA.
    Oh, and our fuel gauges work so well!
    Maybe I'll make a point to do a better job this summer
    since I won't be able to sail for awhile – Getting my
    arm fixed.
    How did you come up with those numbers?

    alan

    — Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5
    knots. I can get the engine
    up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's trying to
    climb out of the water.
    At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon per hour.
    At 2200, it's burning
    nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most
    a knot isn't worth it,
    I just cruise right along.

    What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel
    consumption?

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P
    < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because

    I

    thought I should have more engine RPM's before the
    engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58

    and

    now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run

    it

    that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
    alan
    — Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Patrick

    Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham!

    I

    have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa

    as

    you know. (This is when the vessel is under

    steady

    steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above)

    (not

    backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft

    is

    off set (if it is it's not much) and should not
    account for that much pull. The prop may be

    over

    pitched. I will let you know if or when I come

    up

    with the answer.

    I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
    propellers or reduced the pitch.

    Thanks
    Don
    Syringa

    ____________________________________________________________________________________

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    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69803
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Adam,

    That seems right. I'm wondering why you'd want to run the engine above about 2 grand? Sure, the red line is like 3400 rpm, at least for the W58, and it has been said that diesels 'like' to run at 80% of their max speed (or 2720 for the W58) (which I think is bullcrap, mostly because just because you can do a thing doesn't mean you should do that thing), but with any machinery, running slower is probably running better.

    Not only that, but it's so noisy at higher speeds…

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:30 AM, adam silverstein < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000, fuel burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph. Speed 6-6 3/4 kn

    -Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)

    On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine” < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it's burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn't worth it, I just cruise right along.

    What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P < ([email][/email]) ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
    thought I should have more engine RPM's before the
    engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
    now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
    that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
    alan

    — Syringa < ([email][/email]) ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Patrick

    Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
    have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
    you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
    steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
    backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft is
    off set (if it is it's not much) and should not
    account for that much pull. The prop may be over
    pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
    with the answer.

    I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
    propellers or reduced the pitch.

    Thanks
    Don
    Syringa

    ____________________________________________________________________________________
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    Bob Fine
    Fine Software LLC
    Your data on the web your way. No kidding

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69801
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5 knots. I can get the engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it's trying to climb out of the water. At 1900 rpm it's burning about 3/4 gallon per hour. At 2200, it's burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at most a knot isn't worth it, I just cruise right along.

    What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel consumption?

    Bob

    On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly because I
    thought I should have more engine RPM's before the
    engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a W58 and
    now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever run it
    that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
    alan

    — Syringa < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Patrick

    Hope you had a good trip back from Bellingham! I
    have been looking into the prop pull on Syringa as
    you know. (This is when the vessel is under steady
    steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above) (not
    backing or docking) I don't believe the shaft is
    off set (if it is it's not much) and should not
    account for that much pull. The prop may be over
    pitched. I will let you know if or when I come up
    with the answer.

    I would like to hear from anyone who has changed
    propellers or reduced the pitch.

    Thanks
    Don
    Syringa

    ____________________________________________________________________________________
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    Bob Fine
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    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69795
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Rich,

    I don't think my prop is offset at all – it looks as if I have to take the rudder out to remove the shaft (although I've seen the rudder notched on one 424). That might be the reason Pelican walks all over the place.

    This is one of the funnier threads – the net net is that if you look like you meant to do it, no one questions. (I meant to find that darn rock…)

    Bob

    On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 11:24 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    This is common. At full throttle, it takes two hands to hold the wheel. Pearson offset the propeller shaft to starboard to allow the shaft to be removed without having to cutoff the rudder skeg. When combined with the left-hand turn of the shaft, this makes the boat turn to starboard when under power. IMHO, Pearson should have offset the propeller to port instead to compensate for the prop rotation rather than enforce it.

    —
    Rich Carter


    Original message


    <.. snip>

    Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    in reply to: Man that prop pushes (and walks) hard to starboard #69776
    madsailor
    Moderator

    I may be doing something wrong, but I don't feel prop walk in any particular direction astern – Pelican goes pretty much at random until enough way is on for the rudder to work (which, by the way, is considerable as the rudder is way too small for the boat). Going astern in a tight situation is always an adventure. I have a three bladed prop and a W58.

    Bob

    On Wed, May 7, 2008 at 5:10 AM, Joseph Steiner < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    I have a Max-Prop and I get prop walk to starboard in
    reverse…can't say if it would be worse with a
    regular prop since I can't compare..but I can only say
    the max still gives a prop walk…quite severe,
    especially whe you don't want to go that way…LOL!

    — Patrick_Seattle < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    On the trip home from the haul-out portion of my
    survey the boat was really pushing to starboard (the
    same side walks to when in reverse). My surveyor
    Don (Owns Syringa) said his boat does this too. Free
    Spirit has the W58 and Syringa has the W60.

    I was wondering if this was a common experience and
    what people have done (if anything) to improve it. I
    was thinking a Max-Prop could help quite a bit. Prop
    is marked 20LH13.

    Thanks,
    -p



    http://shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick


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    Bob Fine
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    in reply to: Raw water cooling #69769
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hi Linus,

    Someone mentioned the plugs in the V-drive and that they looked as if a zinc could go in there but that they didn't want to put a zinc in there because they didn't want a zinc in the raw water pump.

    I sort of think a zinc is a good idea especially if one keeps up with it. But what do I know? I know there's one in one of the heat exchangers at the back (front) of the W58…

    I'll have to look at mine now as it needs an oil change anyway…

    Bob

    On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Hi all

    I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn't know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
    The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don't have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
    The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn't it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

    Linus
    SUMOCEAN #34

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    in reply to: Anchor Locker Deck lid ? #69767
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Oddly enough, Eric, I just ran across the handle with pin that goes under the plate. If that helps at all.

    Bob

    On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 10:36 AM, Eric Lorentzon < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    On the boat I purchased the hardware for securing the anchor locker lid is gone. Hinges are in place and fine. Any idea of best option for replacement? Not enought boat units left to do a Tor type project…….

    Eric

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    in reply to: Dual alternators and water pump #69762
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Hey! Crew's quarters!

    On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 7:41 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    With the divider boards in, make that 2 staterooms.

    Tor


    Silver Heels, P-424 #17
    http://www.SilverHeels.us


    Quote:

    Original Message


    <.. snip>

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    in reply to: Dual alternators and water pump #69757
    madsailor
    Moderator

    Jeez, Tor, that could be another stateroom!

    On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 9:59 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:

    Quote:
    Bob,

    Thanks for the alternator photos. Can't tell exactly how that would translate onto my Yanmar, but I get the general idea and may endeavor to duplicate it when I get to that point on The List.

    While you were lounging on top of your engine stretching a 5 minute job into 6 hours, I was up at the other end of Silver Heels crammed into the what I have dubbed “the forepit,” drilling some awkward (as in deep and angled) holes for the PVC conduit that will bring in the new windlass' cables & wires on one side, and the deck washdown pump's intake water hose on the other. Here are a few photos showing the removable divider boards and the conduit pipe installation-in-progress. Oh, how I dream of just layin' around on the engine all day like some yachtsmen I know.

    Tor


    Silver Heels, P-424 #17
    http://www.SilverHeels.us


    Quote:

    Original Message


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Viewing 15 posts - 1,531 through 1,545 (of 1,627 total)