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Oh, please, Tor – Even if you danced around in your underwear with a ferret on your head you wouldn't be dropped – you're the go-to guy here!
Bob
On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 9:05 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:It must be spring. Glad to see I wasn't inadvertently dropped from the server.Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hopefully, Tor and Jack, you'll be getting something just now.
Bob
On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 8:31 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Is it possible there have been no emails here since Friday morning? Or am I not receiving anymore?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Alan,
Thanks!
Bob
On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 7:49 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I think if you ask 10 people about grounding a SSB
radio you will most likely get 11 opinions.
ICOM has some great tech articles on the subject. The
best place to ask questions about SSB is the SSCA
forum.alan
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Speaking of grounding planes and so forth – I have one of those plates bolted to the hull in the aft cabin hanging locker which is not attached to anything. Since I've already decided to use the ICOM unit (might as well, right?) what is the best way to do this whole grounding thing? Or, if there's a good, but simple, book on it, what's the title?
Bob
On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 6:14 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I know how controversial the conversations can be
concerning SSB, so …lets try this on for size.
PO had a strip of copper foil the was tacked down the
length of the bilge running to the thruhull in the aft
hanging locker. That thruhull is not connected to the
bonding system. The foil then goes the ground lug on
the tuner.
The ant. is a ss 1×19 wire that runs up to an
insulator on top of the mizzen mast then over to the
top of the main mast where it is attached to small
line.
I figure I'll just leave well enough alone for the
time being. Try the Pactor modem and go from there. I
am thinking I shlould be able to get something up here
in Lake Ontario (away from the marina of course).
If that does not work well… there is always radials
right?
As for the HAM thing… I have a study guide. the test
doesn't seem to hard….I mean I just got my USCG
Masters… so…. not to dis the ham people.
alan— John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Alan,
I'll let Rich speak for his experience with the
SGC2000, but one of my
friends who is in the business of re-selling and
installing marine HF radios
has an SGC2000 on board. He has a similar opinion
on it as Rich expressed,
but he still uses it on board, and he is fairly
active on the Ham
frequencies. He does not do a lot of DSQing, but he
does (or used to)
participate in the most of the cruisers nets on the
East Coast and the
Caribbean. I think if he ever went cruising (never
happen) he would upgrade
the SSB – he buys radios wholesale. In the meantime
it meets his needs.
So I think whether the SGC2000 sucks for you depends
on how important it is
in your cruising plans and where you cruise. If
you're just going to the
Caribbean for a few years and have a Ham license,
the SGC is probably
adequate. If you want to cross an ocean maybe you
should consider an
upgrade. I assume you have the SGC230 tuner, which
most knowledgeable
people consider the best. That's what I use with my
802. So if you decide
to upgrade the SSB don't let the SGC230 go, it will
work with just about any
marine SSB.
That Pactor modem will put a lot of demand on your
radio so that should be a
good test of the adequacy of the SGC for your needs.
If you can reliably
connect to SailMail or Winlink, why upgrade? Of
course success with
SailMail and Winlink has as much to do with the
quality of the counterpoise
as it does with the HF radio.
With regard to Winlink and Sailmail. Last summer,
sailing back to the US, I
found it very difficult to connect to Winlink, but
consistently connected to
SailMail. That even though there were a lot more
stations in the Winlink
network and generally better propagation available
than to the single
SailMail station in Europe (Brussels). Eventually I
stopped attempting to
connect to Winlink and used SailMail the rest of the
way. Once I was within
1500 nm of the US SailMail stations I was able to
connect reliably with
them. I did have to request additional time from
SailMail – you are limited
to 90 minutes in any 7 consecutive days. I never
discovered or got an
explanation of why I had such great success with
SailMail and such little
success with Winlink.John
On Wed, Apr 30, 2008 at 6:27 AM, alan P
< ([email][/email])> wrote:Rich,
Does your SGC-2000 suck that bad. My boat camewith
one and a tuner. I have not had much time to play
with
it so I don't know how “good” it is. Although I
have
talked to some guy from Texas and have listened
to
one of the cruisers net when the weather is right
and
the stars are aligned. I have purchased a pactor
modem this winter and plan to start messingaround.
alan
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com____________________________________________________________________________________
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Paul,
The brass header is probably the way to go, or you can make your own with the compression fitting 'T's and short sections of tubing. The only other way is to run the tubing along the floorboards and 'T' for the sink and shower, the galley sink, and finally end at the forward sink. That's the way a house would probably be plumbed. But with the header, all the fittings are in one place (I could tell you a story about why you want that – it's much easier to find a leak or a fitting that's blown off).
Whatever you do, though, get rid of the black fittings Pearson supplied. They leak.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 29, 2008 at 3:26 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the 12 years he owned the boat.
Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple T's and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.
Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Dave,
Someone already sent the logo. And I'll speak to my sailmaker…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 7:26 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob Any sailmaker should have art work for a sail logo that can be traced. David<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Thanks, Dave,
Someone already sent the logo. And I'll speak to my sailmaker…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 7:26 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob Any sailmaker should have art work for a sail logo that can be traced. David<.. snip>
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Last first:
Hi Walter,
The hoses from the aft wall of the cockpit go straight to the hull above the waterline but below the transom. No valves or anything. Because the cockpit would have to be below the waves for water to come in, at that point you're already in trouble.
Hi Paul,
You saved me the trouble of doing that! Thanks! Ok, new plan. How far from the lip is the side lip of the lid? In other words, the top of the lid must surround the lip of the opening into the lazarette. What if the gasket was around the side of the lid? That way the drain channels can stay open (important) and the lid would be sealed?
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 6:16 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
“To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the
locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap
– that's the one you have to fill.”Bob:
I thought of the same thing, so I climbed into my locker this afternoon . Because of the way the inner lip slopes to the floor, there is way too much gap to use a gasket. The gap at the back is a couple inches and at the front closer to 6 inches. You could put a gasket around the outer edge, but the water drain slot would still be open.
Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
PO put two 1-1/2″ drains on aft wall of cockpit about 2″ up. Haven't tested it yet and hope to never test it.
For the lockers: To waterproof, you can get 'D' shaped weather stripping from Home Depot that's self adhesive. Two options: 1, get it big enough so you only need one on the top or 2; get two that mate, one on bottom, one on top. All lockers should have positive latches, preferably the ones that have the hinged bit with a lever as opposed to the simple lock hasp.
Make absolutely sure that you install the hasp so that it cannot lock you in the locker should the lid fall while you are in there. Really.
To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap – that's the one you have to fill.
Large 'D' gasket material is available at Graingers and McMaster-Carr.
That's what I'm planning to do…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:27 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I would agree with Paul, more drains is likely more effective than trying to seal the lockers. A positive latch is a very good idea. I just shoved a shackle in the lock hasp to hold the lockers closed. Fortunately I never had to test how effective that was. We took a large amount of seawater into the cockpit only once and then only a little more than half-way up to the lip of the locker hatch. We were sailing level, so it was a lot of water. I don't know how many minutes it took to drain all the water, but it felt like a lifetime. I hadn't added any drain capacity.
John
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:15 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.
I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order, especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on. If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker. They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.
Paul
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Paul,
The water tubing is actually not marine tubing – it's used in homes for domestic hot water and for radiant floor heating, both of which can be hotter than 140 degrees. The fittings, however, should be replaced whenever you break one (the plastic ones, not the metal ones). Typically, I've replaced 50% of mine and out of those, more than half had the metal ring in backwards…
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I see that Force 10 has a TCV available for their units that re-directs the engine coolant once the water temperature is 140F. Have these typically been installed with a new heater. While I assume that you want to get as much free hot water as you can, I was wondering if the temperature can get to hot when you motor all day for that plastic tubing that Pearson installed for the water lines.
Thanks,
Paul
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
THanks Walter – I need a bigger wrench and hammer arrangement…
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Seawater < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I just did mine, it was righty-tighty.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
THanks Walter – I need a bigger wrench and hammer arrangement…
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 8:01 AM, Seawater < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I just did mine, it was righty-tighty.
Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If you're doing the job now and the incremental cost isn't that great, do it. It will help if you ever sell the boat.
Bob
On Mon, Apr 28, 2008 at 5:11 AM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I was about to order some 316 SS flat bar today to make up my new chain plates. Since almost everyone of my old chain plates (both mizzen and main) are at least a bit bent, I am thinking that they were undersized to some extent( or my boat got beat up in some nasty storm!!)
My mizzen chain plates were .1875″ x 1.25″. As a minimum, I am going up to .25″. Almost the same cost and will fit no problems. Has anyone gone one further size up to .3125″ (5/16 ths) for the mizzen.
My main chain plates were .375″ x 1.5″. The next size up is .500″. This wouldn't cost a lot more (<$100 total more) and would fit the toggles okay. Some additional work would be required enlarging the slots in the deck. but that should be pretty easy with a dremel tool. My surveyor, who had owned a 424 for 13 years, indicated that he went up to 1/2" plates on his boat. Have many others done the same or just stayed with 3/8"?? Thanks, Paul
Boundless #28
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Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kiddingPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi John,
That's it! Thanks!
Bob
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 4:53 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,
This is closest I think I have to the sail logo, it is off the 424 brochure. The logo on website that I referred to was the one showing the 424 sailplan.
Hope this is what you want, it looks like the logo that was the mainsail when I purchased Sarah.
JohnOn Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 4:52 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi, Tor,No, I'm looking for the 424 logo for the sails.
Thanks!
Bob
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 12:41 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Is this what you're looking for (attached)?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
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<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi, Tor,
No, I'm looking for the 424 logo for the sails.
Thanks!
Bob
On Sun, Apr 27, 2008 at 12:41 PM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Is this what you're looking for (attached)?Tor
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
