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Ok, then as long as the engine ground goes to the shunt, you’re good to go.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:59 PM, “Alan” wrote:Quote:My alternator had a separate grounding terminal, but it’s for the voltage
regulator ground. The alternator is indeed case grounded, else you would
need a grounding cable as big as the positive cable…… and this grounding
terminal is only for a small gauge wire.
alan— On Wed, 10/12/11, Robert Fine wrote:
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Well said, Alan. True, dat. Also, I am concerned that you have to connect to
a bonding point for stuff to work. That’s absolutely wrong.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:55 PM, “Alan” wrote:Quote:Very simply stated…. if you want the LinkPro to measure battery usage, it
must go through the shunt. If the particular object does not go through the
shunt, but is directly connected to the battery, it will work, but it’s
current usage will not be registered by the LinkPro.
So, things like the starter and fuel solenoid, which are case grounded, use
the grounding wire (BIG black cable). In your case, if that big cable is not
connected to the shunt. They will continue to operate, but their current
usage will not be shown on the LinkPro.
Thats my understanding. YMMV
AlanPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pat, there is something very wrong going on here. You need a grounding
buss that all your loads go to, including the engine ground. From there, one
wire to the shunt and one wire from the shunt to the batteries.Normally, alternator cases are grounded by the bolts that hold them in
place, and no wire goes separately to the battery grounds. If it does in
your case, put it to the buss bar I mentioned earlier.One thing that may be confusing the issue here is that a connection anywhere
on a wire is the same as anywhere else. That may help you simplify what
you’re trying to see in your head.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 12, 2011 1:43 PM, “Patrick "Peaboy" Walters” <
> wrote:I was just talking to the Xantrex folks and they don’t seem to understand
the wiring I have.My batteries have various LOADs using the negative posts instead of a
busterminal strip. No real problem there in my current installation.
My alternator is NOT case grounded. It has it’s own Negative wire back to
the batteries.
I also have a wire that goes form Negative to my engine block.When I install the shunt for the LinkPro, all of the LOADS (in or out)
Negative wires need to go on one post of the shunt and the battery Negative
on the other post.So the question is, what is that wire that goes to my engine block? Seems
like’s part of the NEG of my system and my bonding as well. Because when we
had the engine out, if I didn’t hok that wire to the bonding wire to the
post on the prop strut under the engine I could not run any DC loads.So, given that should that wire go on the Load side of the shunt?
I love when I call tech support and they don’t have any clue either. 😉
Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Maybe, although I didn’t see the other mods.
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 11, 2011 12:20 PM, “Patrick” wrote:Is this the boat.
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/album01-p
Sent from my iPad
On Oct 11, 2011, at 6:03 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi All,
I’m in the middle of a delivery to Charleston and who should I spy in
Beautort, NC but One Eighty, Charles and Quentin’s 424. They’ve just
brought the boat from the Great Lakes to the Hudson to Norfolk to here.
Welcome them!One Eighty is in terrific shape and I hope Charles sends a picture of
what
they or the PO did to the nav station (hint, it’s a big hanging locker
now).Anyway, that’s the news for today.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I had to replace my antifreeze so I used the Blue Oceans one from West
Marine – it’s polypropylene glycol instead of ethylene glycol so isn’t bad
for the environment. It meets or exceeds all manufacturer’s specifications
(or so it says on the jug). No matter what you use, you should expect to
change it every two years. The anti-corrosion additives don’t last any
longer than that anyway.Bob
On Tue, Oct 11, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Rodd Leeds wrote:
Time to renew my old antifreeze on my W58. I have always used the plain
green Prestone. Now I wonder if it might make sense to use the new Extended
Life Prestone which presumably gives longer protection. Anyone have
experience using this Prestone product?
They say it has no silicates or phosphates and is safe for aluminum?Rodd Leeds
Windseeker
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—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Interesting question. Because I can’t reach it. If I could, I’d put a layer
of woven roving there.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 9, 2011 11:19 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Bob,I’m sure what you did is strong enough, but why not also build up some
‘glass on the inside, on the floor of the sump?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Hi Lee,
Here’s what I did – I was at a yard that did no launching on weekends so
they hung Pelican on Friday afternoon. First, I ground out the soft
fiberglass at the base of the keel behind the ballast until I got to dry
glass laminate – I ground it in a ‘V’ shape with the narrow end up. The
width of the hole inside the boat was about 1″ for a distance of about 2
feet, or most of the bottom of the sump. The width at the outside was about
4″ and I ground another few inches around the hole.Then, I put one layer of cloth across the hole and let it set up so I didn’t
end up pushing all the stuff into the bilge. After that, I just laid up
layer after layer until it was even with the bottom outside. Then I
overlaid it in a couple of layers that overlapped edges I ground beyond the
hole.After it all set up, I sanded it smooth, painted and went into the water.
It took two days to do the job mostly because I had to wait between layers
for set up.It’s not hard, just time consuming.
Bob
On Sun, Oct 9, 2011 at 8:44 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Bob,
I’d like to know just what you had to do to make the repair.
I have hull number 43.Lee
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I wouldn’t be surprised if yours was thicker. I notice newer 424s have lots
of differences that sometimes are for the better, sometimes not. Thicker
keels are better, in my opinion.I forget Lee’s hull number.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 9, 2011 8:06 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:I believe you, Bob, but I still can’t imagine water seeping through 1/2″
of fiberglass. (BTW, my boat, #17, seems to be thicker than that at that
point.) Perhaps that seam you mention opened up to become a crack. Not
good, but I guess as long as the ballast doesn’t slip out through it
we’ll make it to port.🙂
Original Message
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When mine leaked, it was about 1/2 inch and there is a seam there from the
forms. It is, traditionally a weak spot. I didn’t know how weak until I had
to grind mine out. I found the leak from the inside out.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 9, 2011 7:22 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:Quote:Bob,Your boat leaked through the fiberglass of the keel’s foot, just abaft
the ballast? No hole or crack? Water just seeped through the layers of
‘glass? How thin was it at that point?Quote:
Original Message
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The section of keel between the aft edge and the ballast is very weak. Of
it’s leaking there as mine was the repair is simple but messy requiring
hauling the boat and working on it in the slings.Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Oct 8, 2011 10:44 PM, “Patrick "Peaboy" Walters” <
> wrote:Maybe there was a barrel of vodka glassed into your keel and its leaking!
Now you can drink it!-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 7:38 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Good thinking Joe.
Taste the water. Is it fresh (chlorinated) or salty?
On 10/8/2011 6:16 PM, joe shimkonis wrote:
Did you have your water pressure on? I had a pin hole leak in one of the
tubings to the shower and behind the shower.I only discovered it when itgot
bad enough to make a hissing noise.Figure out if the leak is city water
or
salt water.I agree with “Tonto” that with a prop shaft penetrating the
hull,a rudder post,thru hulls,itis probably a leakyfitting as opposed toa
leak in the hull or keel.All my leaks adding water to the bilge have
been
either rain water,water pressure system,or tubing connections bringing
salt
water into the boat for the head,AC,or Refrig cooling,or over filling
the
Quote:Quote:water tanks.______________________________**__
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Hi Lee,
Neither am I. I have water in the bilge all the time. It comes from all
over the place. But the pumps keep it under control. The weak spot,
however, is between the ballast and the aft end of the keel. There’s next
to nothing there and if you’ve been blocked there, you’ve been compromised.
It’s really a bit stupid to make such a weak spot.Bob
On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I’m not clear on where in the bilge you’re talking about, Lee. Where
does the bilge begin to level out? Are you talking about the deep sump
area aft, somewhere forward near the mainmast step, or the stepped-down
flat area in between?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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And bird doo. Apparently solar panels look like targets to birds.
Bob
On Sun, Oct 2, 2011 at 9:08 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Tor,
The newer panels are much better at producing a good output even with
shadows. It’s the way the individual cells are made and wired together. The
older panels, not so much. My panels came with the boat, so I know they are
not as effiecent as the newer ones.
I do know that any panel, must be kept clean of dirt, dust and salt spray –
so keep a bottle of Windex handy.
Alan— On Sat, 10/1/11, Silverheels wrote:
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I may have mentioned this, but I have 2 – 135 watt panels, one on the dodger
and one on the davits. Neither is movable but are sort of flat. During (or
after, really) Hurricane Irene when we lost power for two days the panels
provided all of ships power (except water heating – I used the generator for
that). Down south, below about North Carolina, one panel did the job pretty
well requiring running the engine every 4 days or so. I expect it will be
longer with both panels. Except for hot water, which I really, really like.Anyway, if the 270 watts isn’t enough, I can rotate the one on the davits 90
degrees and add one more. When I met my friends at Key West, they had three
panels and had to waste power – bread maker, rice maker, etc. I am all
about solar panels. Although, I have to say it’s been raining here for the
last two years, it feels like. Really, two weeks. But there’s been no
wind, either. Feh.Bob
2011/9/30 Alan
Quote:I have better pics someplace – If I can find em – If not I can get more
next week when on the boat.
Alan— On Fri, 9/30/11, Silverheels wrote:
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Hi Pat,
Alan is correct. Use the house bank for monitoring and charging, using the
ACR to charge the start battery. After all, you can start the engine with
the house bank, I hope, but not run ship’s loads with the engine start
battery.Also, make sure you have all the same type of batteries. Don’t do flooded
for engine start and AGM for house. You may have mentioned the types, so
this could be an unuseful comment.Good luck. It’s good to have 660 hours – I have that (almost) in 3 – 4D
batteries and seldom go much below about 80% charged – with the new solar
panels, not even that. I have two group 31s for emergency start and radio
operation. Normally, I use the house bank exclusively with the other tested
by starting the engine whenever I think about it.Bob
On Mon, Sep 26, 2011 at 6:33 AM, Alan wrote:
Quote:I have always have had the Alternator charging the house bank – it’s the
biggest need.
When you think about it, you only crank the start battery for a few seconds
and really don’t take much power from it. SO .. I set it up to charge the
house bank – the ACR is set up to turn ON when it sees a voltage condition
from the Alternator over a certain level. Because the sense wire is on the
house bank. When that happens, the contacts close and charges the starting
battery “at the same time”.
Probably 100% of the time the house bank is going to be at a much lower
level (discharged) then the starting battery ( unless your really cranking
and having trouble starting the engine. In which case your probably going to
be using the battery switch to combine the the house bank and starting bank
anyhow.
Alan— On Sun, 9/25/11, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters
wrote:Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
