Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
If you still have physical access to the sump through the floorboards (I
don’t remember what you have down there), you can clean the oil out with a
strong detergent and then clean the fiberglass with acetone or MEK. If it’s
been painted, use a sander to rough up the surface. Instead of concrete,
use the epoxy self-leveling floor patch stuff.No matter how clean the fiberglass, concrete won’t stick to it. What you
can do is put hydrophilic concrete (sets underwater, and gets harder with
exposure to water like used for ferro-concrete hulls), let it set up well,
and then fiberglass it in very thoroughly. That’s basically how your keel
is made. Even if your new skin leaks, it won’t matter. But it’s easy enough
to make sure it doesn’t.Failing all that, build a removable shelf under the floorboards that fits
tightly enough that most stuff won’t fall into the bilge. That’s a little
more difficult, but frankly, having a big sump that gives you some time in
the event of a leak is a pretty attractive feature of the boat.Bob
On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 8:16 AM, skipmac <> wrote:
Really been thinking about what, if anything, to do about the pit. I hate
the fact that I can’t get in there to clean it and anything that drops
within about 5-6′ of the bilge will inevitably go straight into the most
inaccessible corner of the pit. BUT, if it is filled and you don’t get a
good, permanent seal all around the fill then you have potentially created a
worse problem with no way to get the fill out without cutting the floor
apart.In my case that concern is possibly greater than most because the previous
owner managed to spill his oil change bucket into the bilge and I have spent
the last few months cleaning the bilge. Without access to completely clean
the glass in the pit I think it unlikely that anything will adhere, even
5200.So, unless someone can recommend a fill material that is impervious to
water and will also bond to oil covered fiberglass I think I will have to
live with the pit appreciate its function as a sump and be sure to never
again drop any nuts, bolts or small parts anywhere on the boat._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
If you still have physical access to the sump through the floorboards (I
don’t remember what you have down there), you can clean the oil out with a
strong detergent and then clean the fiberglass with acetone or MEK. If it’s
been painted, use a sander to rough up the surface. Instead of concrete,
use the epoxy self-leveling floor patch stuff.No matter how clean the fiberglass, concrete won’t stick to it. What you
can do is put hydrophilic concrete (sets underwater, and gets harder with
exposure to water like used for ferro-concrete hulls), let it set up well,
and then fiberglass it in very thoroughly. That’s basically how your keel
is made. Even if your new skin leaks, it won’t matter. But it’s easy enough
to make sure it doesn’t.Failing all that, build a removable shelf under the floorboards that fits
tightly enough that most stuff won’t fall into the bilge. That’s a little
more difficult, but frankly, having a big sump that gives you some time in
the event of a leak is a pretty attractive feature of the boat.Bob
On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 8:16 AM, skipmac <> wrote:
Really been thinking about what, if anything, to do about the pit. I hate
the fact that I can’t get in there to clean it and anything that drops
within about 5-6′ of the bilge will inevitably go straight into the most
inaccessible corner of the pit. BUT, if it is filled and you don’t get a
good, permanent seal all around the fill then you have potentially created a
worse problem with no way to get the fill out without cutting the floor
apart.In my case that concern is possibly greater than most because the previous
owner managed to spill his oil change bucket into the bilge and I have spent
the last few months cleaning the bilge. Without access to completely clean
the glass in the pit I think it unlikely that anything will adhere, even
5200.So, unless someone can recommend a fill material that is impervious to
water and will also bond to oil covered fiberglass I think I will have to
live with the pit appreciate its function as a sump and be sure to never
again drop any nuts, bolts or small parts anywhere on the boat._______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I guess I’ll have to see – I’ve never had a problem with their stuff. Even
the mast steps which I put on the mizzen. They seem to be ok. I’m sorry to
hear some of their stuff is substandard. Since I have some sort of relation
with them, I’d be happy to mention problems you’ve found, if you like. Not
that it means it’ll be satisfied but that at least someone will know.Bob
On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 6:13 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
yup, I really like the cabin hardware I have gotten from them.
Pete
On 3/23/2011 4:06 PM, John Stevenson wrote:
Pete,
I am also cautious about using this source, although I have a lot of their
products on board. I don’t know what SS alloy they use on their products
(it probably varies – they may use many different suppliers in China), but
I
no longer use their products for external fittings. I bought some Bimini
fittings several years ago. I wasn’t ready to use them at the time, just
an
impulse buy at a great price. As a test I attached one of the fittings to
my Bimini tubing over the winter. By the spring that fitting was pitted
and
showing rust. The rest of my Bimini hardware was just fine. I think some
of this stuff is great and excellent value. Some of the stuff is junk.
Unfortunately there is no way to tell. Stuff you bought last year might
be
fine. The same stuff this year might not.
Again, I’ve gone to just using this supplier for cabin hardware.On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 5:52 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:I recently ordered some anchor chain tensioners from
marinepartsdepot.com.
They came promptly as have my other orders to them. This time though,
the
quality of the parts was definitely substandard. Basically the levers
were
not machined in such a way that they could swing through their full
radius
(did I use the word correctly this time Tor?). I emailed them and got no
response. After several more days, I emailed again. Still no response.
Their phone number goes to a generic “voicemail for the number….” box
which is full and cannot take more messages.Very disappointing. Use caution with this company.
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Rich,
Go to Home Depot and get a container of the florescent wire ties – then
place them at the intervals you like, a pair at a time. They will go
through the windlass but eventually will fall off. However, they’re cheap
and easy to replace. And there isn’t a problem seeing them.Bob
On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 8:54 AM, wrote:
I’m replacing my anchor chain, 3/8 ht x 200 ft. I’ve previously painted
stripes on the chain every ten feet so that I can tell how much chain is out
there. The pain works but must be renewed each year. I see some plastic
markers available that look durable but I wonder if they stay in place or
pop out and get lost. Has anyone used these?Rich
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Support the rig with the head and back stays and use the halyards to the
side. Replace opposite chain plates two at a time. As long as there’s no
real strain on the rig, you’ll be fine.Call Hayn (Hayn.com) – they have a high pressure water cutter and they can
cut new ones pretty quickly. Talk to Fred and tell him I sent you. They
are really nice people. If you need a company to order them, I can do it
for you – I’m on their books as tax exempt.Bob
On Sat, Mar 19, 2011 at 1:33 PM, wrote:
Quent/ALL:
I hope to replace my chainplates this summer. Did you replace yours with
the mast stepped? If so, can you give me any advice or the procedure by
which you replaced the plates, and how you supported the rig in their
absence?
thanks, BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Because of the difficulty of the emergency rudder operation, the next time I
take Pelican out of the water, I’ll be putting two pad eyes (one backing the
other) on the aft upper corner of the rudder. When I’m about to go
offshore, I’ll attach lines to the pad eyes and loop them over the stern
rail until (if) they’re needed. Then I can run them to the aft winches if
necessary.It will keep the cockpit clear of that huge pipe and whatever rigging is
required. I know someone had an eye welded to the emergency rudder so they
could use a block and tackle (or more properly, a handy billy) to assist in
the steering.Edson doesn’t want you to use the quadrant because it’s not designed for
that kind of loading. When you see the tiller arm, you’ll see what I’m
talking about. To connect to the quadrant means you’ll be piercing one of
the radial castings which will weaken it. Take Edson seriously. I suspect
they’ve seen that kind of failure.Bob
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 7:36 AM, quent wrote:
My guess would be that an accidental disconnect between the steering system
and the rudder would be the only reason to use the emergency tiller. That
would eliminate the friction.
In theory, the autopilot could replace the steering system but the only
steering failure we have ever experienced was in the electronics rendering
the autopilot useless..
Maybe you could attach lines to the emergency tiller to control it.
Best just to inspect and maintain primary steering system.
Quent_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
400 sq feet is close enough.
Bob
I’m not being terse. This is from my mobile.
On Mar 15, 2011 10:22 AM, “Pete Dubler” wrote:Did we ever figure out how many square feet the bottom paint covers? I
know the group came up with answers for how much bottom paint, but I
want to figure out how much stripper I will need at 40 sq ft per gallon.Will be going with Coppercoat on the bottom as part of our restoration
project but need to strip the bottom first and don’t want to deal with
soda blasting since the boat is on a farm and I would no longer be
welcome if I poisoned the chickens.Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The 120 amp DC will run the inverter which heats the water. My 2000 watt
Honda will heat the water. 120 amp @ 12V is 12 amp at 120V (approx 1440
watts). Your heater may be rated at 1500 watts, but doesn’t really draw
that. You could try it – the worst that would happen is you’d pop a
breaker, if there’s one on the generator.On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 1:22 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Quote:Bob,
My generator is a 120 AMP DC unit. I doubt I can find a 12 volt DC water
heater.
The Kubota generator does not produce much hot water. I have never seen
water
temps above 110 degrees.lee
Original Message —-Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I suggest the propane model so you can use it without the generator or
dockside electric. But Lee, you have a generator – why not use it to heat
the water and charge the batteries?Bob
On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 12:37 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I have note, but I love a good research project. You thinking of a propane
model or an AC model for use at the dock?-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 9:33 AM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Has anyone installed a tankless water heater? We are spending more and
more
time away from the dock and the admiral misses her showers and hot waterto
wash
the dishes.lee
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
How big is your solent? If less than 100%, then you can move the pulpits
back a few inches and mount your tracks between the outside and forward leg.
I had a similar problem with my staysail and now use the legs of the pulpits
for the sheet attachments.Bob
On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 12:53 AM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:It got cold and I didn’t finish (pronounced start) mounting my mast
pulpits.
I’ve had a sail maker ad I’ve been thinking about the solent stay the sails
I might fly form there…Soooo….. I think the elephant on my foredeck is that there’s no way to
mount the t-track for the solent sail on the cabin top AND have mast
pulpits….Am I wrong? Does anyone out there have both?
Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Unless I’m mistaken, it’s an anodized aluminum pad eye. I prefer stainless
ones, and they come with curved plates. I know I’ve seen yours at least
within the last few years.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Wow, that was fast. I have not seen this particular design in any
catalogs, but have not looked at defender yet. The PO spent a lot of time
on the Med and got a lot of parts there.Pete
On 3/7/2011 5:24 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
They weren’t standard – they are easily acquired from Forespar or Lewmar
or
someone like that. Easy peasy. Look at Defenders.com.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler
wrote:Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or
if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip
on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one
on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
They weren’t standard – they are easily acquired from Forespar or Lewmar or
someone like that. Easy peasy. Look at Defenders.com.Bob
On Mon, Mar 7, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Been stripping all the parts off the spars. I promise I have not been
cursing. (watch words: Kroil, torch, cobalt bits, heavy duty Wera
screwdrivers, patience)I did however break flange of one of the large padeyes. I wonder if you
all could look at this part and tell me if this was standard Pearson or if
the PO may have added them. These are on the main mast and I use to clip on
my harness but they could also be used for whisker poles. There is one on
each side of the mast. Loop hole ID is 1″.In any case, I would like to find a replacement. Anyone recognize the
maker and know of a source?Here is the link to the picture:
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/padeye.jpgThanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pat,
No, I don’t believe the post is structural. In fact, Lee (Morning Glory)
has removed his and made a box to sit on there.Bob
On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 4:07 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:I’m working on my new nav desk and seat. Here’s a pic of the roughed-in
desk http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5503887446/ I still need to
work
out how it easily move out of the way. But, As part of that I’m going to
put
in an aft facing box-seat and I want to remove the large post to which the
old swing-out seat is attached, similar to Sea Duty’s:https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/SeaDuty/Storage_Locker_and_Seat_in_Place_of_Swing_out_Stool
<
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/SeaDuty/Storage_Locker_and_Seat_in_Place_of_Swing_out_Stool
<
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/index.php/Interior-Modifications/SeaDuty/Storage_Locker_and_Seat_in_Place_of_Swing_out_StoolDoes
anyone know if that post is structural to the nav desk?
Thanks,
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Don,
The draft, unless you measured, is actually 5’6″, but that aside, it’s not a
trivial task to shorten the keel. Since it’s encapsulated, you can’t be
really sure what you’ll run into cutting into it. Moreover, there’s the
change in righting moment from removing a significant portion of the
ballast.Before attempting it, I’d sure check with a naval architect before having at
it.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 10:00 AM, Rags wrote:
We are moving our Pearson 424 to Southwest Florida. While we can manage
with the 5’3″ draft, we are researching reducing the draft by about 6″. Has
anyone cut their keel? What negatives/positives did you experience?
Don Riggins
Sabatico
1980 Pearson 424_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Now that I examine it more closely, I see that – I thought the port pole was
the mizzen.My bad.
Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:53 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:
Quote:Hi Bob,My Pearson424 does not have a mizzen mast..long gone. The radar is atop a
pole
which is part of the solar panel/davit system. It is located riight on the
transom corner. There is a twin on the port side which is supports the wind
generator.Joe,
________________________________
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
