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I think my inner forestay is 5/16, but am not near the boat to measure. But the thickness of a baby stay and a solent stay should be different as their lengths are quite different. On the other hand, neither stay is holding the mast up and isn't subject to the same stresses. So, either would be fine.
BobOn Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 2:10 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Hi Tor,
Try Hamilton Marine (hamitonmarine.com) and see if any of the ss handles they have match. They may – Mine is a lower profile than yours, I think.
BobOn Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 1:20 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Thanks, David. If it comes to custom fabrication I believe I could make it myself with a couple of stanchion bases and a pipe bender, to which I have access, but sometimes it's more efficient to just buy something ready-made. I've seen those exact same handles on other boats of this vintage, so I know they are or were at one time mass produced. What I'm hoping to find out is (1) whether they still are, and (2) if so, by whom.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hi Tor,
I'll weigh in on the subject – acetone will do the job. You're just removing wax, grease, or release agent and it does the trick. And you're more likely to have it hanging about. MEK works, too, but I avoid using it because of it's ability to be absorbed through the skin.
Good luck with the job!
Bob2009/4/25 Silver Heels < ([email][/email])>
Quote:Thanks, Joseph. I'll be careful with the vapors. Gave that stuff up in favor of beer years ago.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Pete,
I mentioned that – the symptom would be needing to hold them on longer and longer until the engine just wouldn't start. By the same token, you could notice that by the amount of voltage drop when you press the button.
Bob
On Wed, Apr 22, 2009 at 10:08 AM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Not really Bob… Each of the glow plugs can burn out until you have none that are good. Again, that is what happened to me.
Pete
Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Aaron,
The only way you could burn out all four glow plugs would be to lose power through the solenoid or cut the conductor that runs along the top or they have been failing regularly and the last has finally given up the ghost.
Check there's voltage to them – easiest way? When you press the 'preheat' button voltage will drop visibly on the voltmeter.
It turns out that we all seem to have different engine control panels. If you have two buttons and a key, then you need to hold the preheat button while pressing the start button – the key is just an 'on-off' switch. There is nothing, however, to rewiring those switches so that the key can start the motor, just like a car.
Westerbeke may have made different models of the engine panel between the switch from the W60 to the W58 and on. I know my engine isn't original – Pelican being hull 8 came with a W60 and my engine beds don't look anything like the ones everyone complains about.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Aaron,
The only way you could burn out all four glow plugs would be to lose power through the solenoid or cut the conductor that runs along the top or they have been failing regularly and the last has finally given up the ghost.
Check there's voltage to them – easiest way? When you press the 'preheat' button voltage will drop visibly on the voltmeter.
It turns out that we all seem to have different engine control panels. If you have two buttons and a key, then you need to hold the preheat button while pressing the start button – the key is just an 'on-off' switch. There is nothing, however, to rewiring those switches so that the key can start the motor, just like a car.
Westerbeke may have made different models of the engine panel between the switch from the W60 to the W58 and on. I know my engine isn't original – Pelican being hull 8 came with a W60 and my engine beds don't look anything like the ones everyone complains about.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Aaron,
Chuck Ruble wrote to me indicating that the solenoid is an anti-siphon valve to prevent the spilling of up to 80 gallons into the bilge were the fuel line were compromised.
Even though I took mine out, you should consider fixing or replacing yours rather than just chucking it. It could prevent a rather unhappy day if your fuel line failed… That's assuming the solenoid is the problem with your starting.
It can be cleaned and they still are available at auto/truck parts stores.
Regards,
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Hi Chuck,
I removed mine because even turning the stupid screw wouldn't allow enough fuel to pass. I don't know why. All I know is once gone the problem went with it!
Bob
On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 10:24 AM, Chuck Ruble < ([email][/email])> wrote:
If that's working, then fuel is the issue. If you still have the shutoff solenoid on the top of the tank, take it out and mate the fuel line together.
There's a small set screw on the front of the solenoid that will manually overide the cutoff fuction, turn it 90 degrees. Check that the fuel solenoid is getting voltage when the key is turned on. Could be another lose connection. The solenoid is probably at the top of the tank. W58 or W60?
Chuck—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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Ok, then, now we're getting somewhere. Normal speed turning over means there are only two things that could be causing a problem. The first is air. I assume you're not living in a vacuum, so that leaves fuel. Maybe glow plugs, but it's unusual for all of them to go at once. Even so, the engine will eventually start with the glow plugs not functioning. It's easy enough to check – while they are being activated by some associate, measure the voltage from the tip where the conductor connects them all to a good ground. You should also hear a click from the glow plug relay when you press the button. You should also see the voltage drop on the engine panel meter. If none of those happen, the probability is that the glow plug solenoid is not working and you should clean the connections. It's the solenoid at the top forward (to the boat) end of the engine, just above the coolers.
If that's working, then fuel is the issue. If you still have the shutoff solenoid on the top of the tank, take it out and mate the fuel line together. You don't need it and it has a tendency to fail. You can also remove the purple wire to the engine panel if you like.
With the key on you should hear the electric pump click every so often, especially if you're bleeding the fuel system. You can open the bleeder bolt on the top inboard side of the fuel filter mounted to the engine. The bolt points inboard. With the key on, loosening that bolt will result in a pretty fair stream of fuel. Have a rag handy. If you have fuel there in a strong stream, then you have fuel to the high pressure pump. If you do not there may be a filter in the pump that needs replacing or the pump itself needs its connections checked or it needs replacing. Make sure there's power to it.
Beyond that, you're delving into diesel mechanic's areas and although I'd do it without hesitation, I won't recommend it to anyone who feels the slightest bit nervous fooling with the high pressure system.
So, I've given you all that I would do to try to repair this. It should take about an hour to try all this.
Good luck!
Bob
On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 2:18 AM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Normal
On 4/19/09 7:07 PM, Robert Fine wrote :
How fast is it turning over? Normal speed? Too slow?
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
> Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
How fast is it turning over? Normal speed? Too slow?
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:
> Always check the connections.
I just feel like an IDIOT.
I had done the screwdriver into the switch terminals. Click. Ok, not the switch.
Got a voltmeter, had GF hit starter button and no juice from solenoid. That’s it, found the problem and confirmed my initial diagnosis solenoid is shot!
Then I get this email that says “Always check the connection”
Well, ok, whatever, it can’t be that simple! This little wire from the solenoid is a little loose but I’ll tighten it just to prove it can’t be that simple.
Damn. It was that simple.
It still won’t really start but it is turning over now.
So…- Check juice to the glow plugs
- bleed air
Anything else to look for initially?
I dunno why I feel so helpless troubleshooting this stuff all of a sudden.—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
The other day I was testing my engine prior to a big trip – up the Hudson for a haulout. Very slow turning over and wouldn't start – three fully charged 4D batteries. What was wrong?
Simple – big wire from ground buss to engine block end fittings corroded (and incidentally oily) – disconnected, cleaned with sandpaper, rebolted, and hey! Presto! Badaboom, badabing, all's well!
Whew!
Seriously, though, check that connection – it's copper on steel.
Bob
On Sun, Apr 19, 2009 at 6:53 PM, John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Just to add my two cents…I agree with with Linus, check the connections. I had a similar issue last year..it was a loose connection at the battery.
My experiences working the the boat this weekend echo that refrain; always check the connections. Last year, my high-water bilge alarm stopped working as well as a my knot log. Today, I was working on the boat and decided to tackle these two issues. First I started checking the connections and found two loose connections (one was the neg and the other was a faulty connector). Feeling good, I moved on to the knot log. I re-adjusted the connection and pulled the “spinny thing”…and again success.
Always check the connections first.
— On Sun, 4/19/09, Linus Martinez < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
This haulout, I'm using the correct size only the graphite impregnated one – for both the shaft and the rudder shaft.
Bob
On Sat, Apr 18, 2009 at 7:55 AM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Adam-I used 3 rings of 3/8″ packing, and that was about 10 years ago. Some say 5/16 is correct, but I like to use the largest size that fits.
Packing for shaft lob is 3 rings of 1/4 in.
Rodd
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Hi Rich,
I use the squeeze together fittings – you just take the 3/8″ plastic tube and stick it about 3/4″ into the fitting and it's done. It's rated for over 100 psi, like 160 deg F, and is used in new housing for domestic water and radiant heating. They have the appropriate fittings for pipe to tubing and the really nice thing is that you can pull the tabby thingy out and disconnect the tubing without destroying the end.
They run between 1.50 to 7.00 each (valves are expensive) and they come in 3/8″ and 1/2″ sizes (our boats are 3/8″ id, 1/2″ od).
Bob
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I figured you knew that. I can send you a picture later if you want and I'll measure all the stuff so you'll know.
Bob
On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 9:32 AM, Alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:The output side the heat exchanger and the coolant tanks are 1 1/4 (measured).
I know that sealing hose this way is not correct. Just need to find a suitable solution.
The engine was removed before I bought the boat to replace the fuel tank. I think they cut the hoses and put it back in any which way. I am left to clean up the mess.
Just trying to figure out what was there orginally.
alan— On Tue, 4/14/09, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Hi Alan,
This sounds like the hoses were replaced at some point and they couldn't get the right size hoses. I believe they're supposed to be 7/8″ hoses – the use of inserts into a hose to seal a hose is pretty bad practice and is usually reserved for emergency use. I can take a picture and send it off if you'd like.
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
From my diggling around under there for various reasons, I can tell you that because the counter goes under the cabinets outboard and is constructed in place, apparently, that removal of the top will be a destructive job. Not to say it can't be done – just that it will be a pain. Probably the easiest fix is to laminate another layer of formica to the top and call it good. Remove the sink , fiddles, and all fittings, measure the formica and cut to fit the lines aft and outboard. Glue down. Cut and hey! Presto! new surface.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
