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Mine is marked 20LH13, and if it is like everything else on the boat, it is
30 years old 🙂Paul
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Tor
Thanks for the info on your table set-up.
Bob – Why do you hate your table ( I assume it is the standard full one). Is
it because even folded down, it is in the way. I assume standard position
would be to have the starboard side always up. I take it that makes that
settee difficult to use, unless you modify it the way Tor did. Is the port
side folded down in the way at all.Paul
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Hi Patrick:
I am interested in the table, I will send you address in a PM and we can
discuss further.However, I am curious what you plan to use in place of the table ( and what
others are doing in this area). My boat came with a small table only, so one
of the PO’s must have removed the original one. I assumed I would want an
original style table installed, but the space issue is a good point. I know
anytime I have been offshore, all meals have always been eaten in the
cockpit and the table was never used. However, I have never spent a lot of
time on-board in bad weather, where you may be eating inside. Do most tables
hardly get used or just become the office table.Paul
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“A couple issues with these mounts, and if I had it to do over, I’d go with
PYI or some more substantial brand. First, when we lifted the engine, the
rubber pucks molded on the mounts slipped right out of the aluminum bases.
The only thing holding the engine in place was gravity. This would be
difficult in a knockdown as nothing would prevent the engine from rolling
off its mounts. The dealer attributed this to oil or diesel getting on the
mounts and softening the rubber part. Even with new mounts, I think a
safety cable arrangement would be a good idea, esp. offshore.”Bushings does have one other mount that would work and has slightly higher
capacity that the DF-2207-2. The DF-206 has a 5/8′ stud and 4″ centers. It
is rated at 800 lbs, versus 750 for the DF-2207-2. They only cost $7 more
than the recommended mounts. You would need to increase your mounting bolts
to 1/2″ from 3/8′ to use them. It never hurts to up size a bit.I see that the new design of these mounts now includes a lip to resist the
upward pull on the mount. The original ones didn’t have this, as witnessed
by Quent.Paul
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Walter And Syringa:
Did you fill the cooling chamber on the RV-20 with oil or just leave the
cover off and let it air cool.Paul
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If Torrenson is selling those for $44., it will be interesting to see what
they shipped to Aaron for $140. I assume it is something more than just
painting them red.Paul
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Peter:
Here is a copy of an e-mail I wrote last summer on the subject of sources
for engine mounts. I have attached a picture of them. As you can see, it is
beefier than the old one. Also, it is a bit higher. I have used a die to cut
a few extra threads at the bottom of the 5/8″ stud, so I can move the lower
bolt lower if required. If I need to go even lower, I will use washers only
as shims. You can see how bent the old mount was. That was because of the
engine pan that has sloped outwards. I am now building them up with
fiberglass ( they dropped 5/8″ over the 3″ width). Of course, as mentioned
earlier, some of my mount arms bolts had sheared off in the block.Aaron, if you need to lift the whole engine, I did use a 4×4 across the
companion way. In order to spread the load, I supported the outside ends of
the 4×4 on the coaming a couple of inches above the companionway. That way,
the first part of the load was on the coaming, until the 4×4 had deflected 2
inches, then the companionway took up the rest of the load. I don’t know if
this was necessary, but I felt better spreading around the load.“My original mounts appear to be from Bushings Inc. While their website
doesn’t mention the W60, they do give the following mount “DF-2207-2” for
the W58 and W70.http://www.bushingsinc.com/Acrobat/DF-2200%20SERIES.pdf
Has anyone else used these mounts or can recommend others. I am a little
concerned about the minimum clearance at 2 3/8″, as it looks like my current
height is closer to 2″You can get these at go2marine for $47.95, which is a lot better than the
$128.81 Torrensen Marine wants for the Westerbeke part.http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=85481F
Regards,,
Paul Lefebvre
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Chuck:
Thanks for the info. My next option was to take the saw-all to it, but I was
hoping to save the step. Did you get mast step model PP6641M-S1 (at $349. –
ouch!!) from Rig Rite. I guess when you are the sole source for something,
you get to set whatever price you want. That price was making me think of
just getting one welded up out of aluminum. Has anyone made their own step
for the mizzen.Paul
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I agree with John, it can be hard to pick up the offset, given all of the
curved surfaces around. Since mine is on a cradle, I was able to measure it
up yesterday and it is offset as Rich described.Paul
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Jack:
Bob’s numbers are pretty close. Since mine is lying on the ground (chained
to a tree and my boat cradle with a 1 ton chain hoist trying unsuccessfully
to remove my mast step) , I was able to measure it and it is exactly 30 ft.Paul
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Jack:
Were the manifolds made out of brass or some type of plastic.
Thanks,
Paul
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Walter:
Here is a link to a picture of Richard’s boat, with the cockpit drain just
above the engine exhaust. As you mentioned, he has added a flap to minimize
water intrusion from a following sea.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/davit/davitFolded.JPG
Paul
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Thanks for the info. I will pass on the TCV for now and go with the standard
set-up. While looking into that locker last night, I noticed that I only had
a distribution header for my cold water. For the hot water, the 3 pieces of
tubing were just hanging loose. I take it the PO never had hot water for the
12 years he owned the boat.Has anyone made up a different way to do the header other than the multiple
T’s and nipples that Pearson used. Is there a pre-made header of some sort
already out there, possibly used for radiant floor heating.Paul
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“To mark the lid for the gasket, take a light and a magic marker in the
locker and close the lid. Mark around the edge and measure the largest gap
– that’s the one you have to fill.”Bob:
I thought of the same thing, so I climbed into my locker this afternoon .
Because of the way the inner lip slopes to the floor, there is way too much
gap to use a gasket. The gap at the back is a couple inches and at the front
closer to 6 inches. You could put a gasket around the outer edge, but the
water drain slot would still be open.Paul
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Walter
Were you planning on adding a larger 3-4″ drain in the cockpit like Richard
and others have done. That should keep water levels down in most situations.I think you would find adding tape a hassle in pretty short order,
especially when you want to access the locker after you have just put it on.
If you are really concerned about getting pooped, you could make up
waterproof covers that velcro to the lip around the opening to the locker.
They would be easy to remove and out of site with the lid closed.Paul
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