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We also use a Lasdrop on Clairebuoyant. Used on on P-36/2, our prior boat as well. Very pleased with both, but offer three suggestions:
Put a hose clamp on the shaft to keep the seal ring from sliding up the shaft if the set screws get loose.
When you launch, “burp” the seal to let water in. Otherwise it will trap air and overheat.
Clean the trans end of the shaft really well to avoid damaging the o-ring inside the seal ring.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132I agree with John. We used a Manson 60 on 5/16″ chain in the Bahamas. The greater fluke area is as important as the extra weight. It did require a bit of effort to get it up on the roller, but was worth it for peace of mind. Our Delta became the secondary.
Anyone going to the SSCA GAM near Annapolis this weekend?
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Pat-
There is really no reason to think that a rigger or surveyor would not tell you to replace rigging that has been on the boat for a couple decades. If he says everything is fine, he is on the risk, but makes no money. They will always choose to be conservative and profitable.
Stainless steel is unpredictable. Given the right conditions, stress corrosion cracking failure can occur at what seem to be the strongest parts of the rig. If you have the time, pull the chainplates and mast tangs, esp. the lowers, polish them with Mother’s mag wheel polish, and look at them carefully for the spiderweb like cracks. If you see any, replace all similar hardware. If any swages look suspicious, but the wire looks good, you could cut them off and install Stayloc fittings, esp. on the lower ends. Add toggles to make up the length.
QuentRich-
Try looking on Ebay. I found a new gypsy for my Lewmar 900 for $60 plus shipping.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Alan-
We had good service for a prop at Black Dog Propellers, Stevensville, MD. They are on Kent Island, east of Annapolis.
QuentJ&S-
We have had success using 1″ stainless tubing and rail fittings. Sometimes you can find the stuff cheap at used boat supply stores or on the Internet. We have a sloop rig and have four 80 watt panels above the bimini and between the backstay and the aft end of the boom. Don’t know if that spot would work for a ketch. Maybe if the mizzen boom was high enough, and didn’t shadow the panels too much.
Make sure the structure is rigid and strong enough to hold up to whatever wind you expect.
Regarding davits, used ones show up occasionally on Craigslist and Ebay, but watch out for stress cracks in stainless steel.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132The NAPA #139 sure looks like the right thermostat. Here is a picture of it on a Brit web site.
http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/585475/Pulling_an_MGC_s_head catI guess this is more evidence that the base engine is by Perkins.
Could be zinc pieces, parts from old water pump impellers,or just misc. debris in the heat exchanger tubes. Harbor Freight has some tube brushes ideal for cleaning them out. I took off the ends then pulled the brush through with a piece of ss siezing wire. Be careful of the end parts of the heat exchanger. The original bolts were brass and dependent on the zinc to stay intact. Inspect them carefully before you reuse them. The ends seal with round gaskets and o-rings around the bolt. Don’t tighten the bolts too much or the end covers will crack.
QuentHi Patrick-
By aft of the water tank I mean aft of the water tank. There is an opening from the lower chain locker to the space between the top of the forward water tank and the v-berth platform.
I pull the chain, most of it, aft over the top of the water tank into the space immediately aft of the water tank. This is the space in which some owners have installed bow thrusters.
The windlass easily pulls chain from this location when anchoring. It moves the weight of the chain about seven feet further aft.
QuentThanks, guys. You are all very helpful. I looked at 12 Volt Doctor book and as John suspected, the input voltage has to be 2 volts higher than the regulated voltage. I guess I could build one and connect it with a relay to a voltage sensing switch, but first I’ll just try the TV on 14 volts as Pete and Rich suggest. Besides, watching TV with the engine running would be unpleasant anyway. Might never happen.
QuentThanks, guys. You are all very helpful. I looked at 12 Volt Doctor book and as John suspected, the input voltage has to be 2 volts higher than the regulated voltage. I guess I could build one and connect it with a relay to a voltage sensing switch, but first I’ll just try the TV on 14 volts as Pete and Rich suggest. Besides, watching TV with the engine running would be unpleasant anyway. Might never happen.
QuentClairebuoyant has an S-L Horizon 900 windlass which looks small but works surprisingly well with 200 feet of 5/16″ BBB chain and a 60 pound plow. We have the same castling problem after recovering 70-80 feet of chain. I installed an opening access port on aft face center of v-berth and pull the chain into a pile just aft of the water tank, where some installed a bow thruster. Pulling the chain aft collapses the castle in the forward locker, and gets the weight further aft.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Dan-
When you replaced the thermostat, did you use a Westerbeke part? It has a special disk on the bottom to close the recirculation passage and route coolant to the heat exchanger.
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132Dan-
I think that there is a strong possibility that the sludge is corroded aluminum, perhaps from the thermostat housing and the watercooled exhaust manifold. If it’s like the W-58 I took apart in the garage, the crud is mostly in the t-stat housing and the freshwater circulation pump, and maybe clogging the freshwater side of the heat exchanger.
If you use some chemicals, be sure they are safe with aluminum.
QuentAlan-
It certainly would be easier to use the screw in glow plug hole rather than the fuel injector. Diesel compression testers usually come as a set with adaptors to fit common engines. Perhaps you could remove one glow plug then match it up to an adaptor at someplace where they have diesel engine compression testers.
Two cautions:
Pull all the glow plugs out before you spin the starter. If the engine starts, it will ruin your day.
Be sure that the adaptor does not extend further into the engine than the glow plug does.
QuentAlan-
We replaced just the solid splined shaft. The problem was that the shaft was rusted and the oil seal would not work properly against the rough shaft. I don’t remember what we paid Walter, but apparently there was no real sticker shock. It was a bear to get the jack shaft apart, but we did it with a vice, sledge hammer and lots of PB Blaster.
We were only interested in duplicating the original length, so I can’t comment on how much adjustment is possible. Incidently, the U-joints at the transmission end were totally frozen.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132
