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Michael,
I can only speak of the 424 with the two companionway configuration. The
V-birth in the 422 and 424 is probably very similar. I find the bunk hard
to get in and out of and it’s a bit short for me. I’m 6′ 2″. The main
cabin is good for guests, but I wouldn’t sleep there. The aft bunk is a bit
narrow, but it doesn’t matter in my case. My wife gets half of the bed and
I get the other half. Her half is in the middle and my half is on both
edges. Having a wider bunk wouldn’t help. She pins me up against the side
of the hull. At least one owner extended the width of the aft bunk. I’ve
considered doing the same, but why bother 🙁The stock cusions are thin but are probably replaced in most boats.
IMHO, the 422 has more living space at the expense of storage.
Rich
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Ah, this is an entirely different animal. This may explain 6 mounts, four
for the engine and two for the V-drive. I’ve never aligned a setup like
this but the process must be the same.Rich
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Alignment of the engine is not critical. Walter sells a small gauge that
measures alignment of the jack-shaft to the engine flange. When changing
mounts, you need to verify engine alignment but otherwise you should never
need to touch it. This is described in the walter manual.The V-drive is aligned using the procedure in the walter manual. Alignment
is very critical. You adjust it left/right by moving it where it bolts to
the bed and up/down by adusting the side-mount nuts and tipping it with the
adjustment screws.After reading the manual, let us know if you have questions.
Rich
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Rodd,
My boat as originally built with a W-60 had a fuel shut-off solenoid at the top of the fuel tank. I honestly don’t remember if this was wired through one of the breakers on the engine. The solenoid was unreliable and caused the engine to stop for no apparent reason. After removing the solenoid, problems went away. I know there were at least two breakers there, one probably fed the instrument panel, key, and regulator. I think a second breaker fed the refrigeration system. I would assume they wired the W58 the same way.If you try to draw too much current from your batteries, the alternator won’t be able to keep the charge level up to 12v. Some smart regulators get unhappy when this happens and can attempt to feed a lot of current into the alternator field windings, as much as 20A. If you’re trying to drive a high-current AC appliance when the engine is at a low speed idle, you might pop the breaker. I drive my engine up to at least 1000RPM when running the microwave. I put in a self-resetting 10A breaker for my regulator.
Rich
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Patrick,
Its a 65A alternator.
http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_products/specs.php?item_detail_id=26470&item=8MR2198L&product=ALTERNATORRich
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Looks like you have two pair connected to the lower switch position and one pair connected to the upper switch position.
Rich
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Adam
If it were your transmission, the engine would likely behave as if you had a bad clutch. The engine would race like it was slipping. You don’t report that behavior however. You might check the transmission fluid to be sure. It shouldn’t smell burned and should be at the proper fill level. If it were the V-drive, you’d hear it.Is your engine still running to 2000RPM?
I assume that you have a fixed-blade prop. My guess is a problem with your prop, possibly a line wrapped or growth on the prop. Barnacles can cause the problem you’ve observed. You’ve ruled this out however. Are you sure there’s nothing on your prop? Did you dive on it?
A dirty bottom can make your boat act sluggish. Its amazing what a difference a clean bottom can have. You’d need quite a lot of growth for the behavior noted below.
Rich
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So what do you do with the seizing wire? Just wrap it around the shroud and spreader tip?
Rich
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I’ve had both large deck hatches fail over the years. In both cases, the hatches broke at the hinge. I have no idea why the old hatches failed. I painted the frames every few years and replaced the gaskets once. I had the arm that holds the hatch open fail on one of these and the small one over the galley.
I replaced both with Bowmar low-profile extruded series hatches. The frame is the same size so it fits into the existing hole, but the hole pattern is different. The replacements are nicer than the original cast hatches. I still have the small hatch over the galley.
These hatches could easily be defected by an intruder. All you had to do is stand in the hatch and the dogs would pop open. This came in handy once when I locked my keys in the boat. The replacements don’t have this defect.
Given the high cost of replacement, I would recommend repainting and repairing what you have as long as they are serviceable.
Rich Carter
BlackSheep
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I glassed in a shelf down low with the intention of putting the shower sump pump there. I then put in a higher wooden shelf and painted the whole thing on the inside with bilge-coat. I was unable to route the sump hose into the new space however and ended up putting the sump pump under the galley sink near the freshwater pump. The sump pump had been mounted in the bilge previously and I always had trouble with corrosion from the damp air. I have no idea what I’ll put in the area that was supposed to be for the sump pump.
Rich
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I never really thought about it, but you’re right. The space is not well used. My storage area has some teak glass holders on the left side. I assume they all came this way. If I put stuff in there, something invariably falls down onto the track and keeps one of the sliding doors from opening all the way. I put a cabinet over the refrigerator (U-shaped galley) so we have lots of storage, but better use could be made of the existing space. Please let us know if you come up with something.
Rich
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I put toggles just below the turnbuckles to account for any misalignment in the chainplates.
My backstay chainplate was twisted. I have no idea how this happened. I replaced the whole thing because it was not strong enough.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/TransomChainPlate/Rich
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I’m here. I left Woods Hole this morning and got in around noon. Pea-soup fog all the way including the channel until I got to gardener island. It looks like an interesting bay. I hope to see it one day.
I’m anchored around behind the two islands. I’ll move tomorrow to the new coordinates.
Rich
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There are a number of W60 engines that have been cannibalized for spares, including my old engine. One of our members must have a spare injector line for you. I sold my spare parts when I sold my old engine.
As someone else noted, a diesel shop in the area should be able to make a replacement line for you. As a local trucker for a recommendation.
Rich
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Its highly desirable to have things setup such that a crewmember is always clipped on to a jackline when in the cockpit or ondeck. I put a pad-eye at each side of the bridge-deck. From there, a flat webbing jackline runs to each stern-cleat. This way, its possible to clip-on before leaving the companionway. I put a length of flat webbing down the length of each side-deck inboard of the shrouds from the winch-cleat to the bow cleat. With two teathers, its possible to clip on to the deck jackline before unclipping from the cockpit jackline. Flat webbing is preferable since if you step on it it doesn’t roll. I bought the webbing, cut it to length and sewed it myself on a heavy-duty machine.
Rich
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