Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
I’m not sure how they could ride up, but seizing them won’t hurt.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
That’s probably better than a hose clamp. Next time I pull the mast, I think I’ll replace them.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Rod
I have a hose clam attached just below the spreaders to keep them from sliding down the shroud. There’s a wrap or two of tape under the clamp. Not the greatest solution, but it works.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Chuck
This is from my notes. I think the universal joint numbers are in here too.Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Quent
I’m interested. What are you asking?—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
John
I assume you have an engine-driven system such as mine. I suggest that you invest in the kollman marine book. It has everything in there that you need to know.http://www.kollmann-marine.com/book.html
The schrader valves are are described in the book. As I remember, they are full counter-clockwise for normal operation, full clockwise for closed, and half-way in-between for service. You can use a box wrench to adjust them, but there’s a special ratcheting tool that is used for these valves that makes service easier. I don’t remember where I got mine. I did a web search and came up with this.
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5237&CAWELAID=81311982If you properly connect your gauges and open the service valves part-way, you should see high pressure on the high side and partial vacuum on the low side. The exact pressure settings are temperature dependent and are described in the book as are failure symptoms. The pressure gauges should move slightly over time, but should not cycle on and off unless the box is very cold. If they cycle with a warm box, you have water in your system. If you see bubbles in your sight-glass and the gauges both show pressure and vacuum yet the system doesn’t run cold, you are probably low on refrigerant. This is very common on engine-driven systems. Over the winter, the seals on the compressor may leak. I sometimes close my schrader valves over the winter to keep the charge from leaking out. You must remember to open them all the way before running your system however.
If you have R-134, add a can of refrigerant. This can be purchased at Walmart. You may need a tap-a-can and hose to connect to your gauges. Take a look at the hose fittings on your gauges to see what kind of hose adapter you need for a can. Most automotive stores will have what you need if you can’t find it at Walmart.
Keep an eye on the sight glass as you add refrigerant. If it starts running without bubbles, stop adding refrigerant. I haven’t been able to figure out precisely how much refrigerant to add. I find that if the system is low, a can or two will fix it. There’s a reservoir in the condenser that can hold a few pounds. When properly charged, the plates will start to freeze in about 30 minutes. After an hour or so, the box is cold. It may take a couple of hours or more to completely freeze the plates if the box is warm, but I usually don’t bother to run the engine that long unless I’m headed somewhere.
Feel free to call me if you have questions.
—
Rich Carter
603-493-3330
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Patrick,
The tape looks better than I would have suspected. No teak to finish. I’m
in the process of rebedding some of the fasteners in there and I’m
considering it as a future project. My fist thought had been to replace it
with teak trim that has no fasteners to hold it. It would be glued in
place. I’ve been rebedding the fasteners as leaks develop, but it is hard to
catch it in time. My coachroof interior is still in decent shape. I’ve
been refinishing that too. The V-berth laminate is the worst, but there’s a
bad spot in the aft cabin too.Rich Carter
BlackSheep – #47Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
For those of you who have not yet discovered, a leak under the coach-roof trim piece can look much like a leak in a portlight. Before tearing your portlights out to rebed or replace them, consider rebedding the fasteners used in the teak trim above the portlights.
On a related note, if anyone comes across a replacement light for the large non-opening ports used on some of the boats, please let me know. My boat came with two non-opening portlights in the head. I purchased a pair of Bomar replacements only to find that they are about an inch too narrow.
—
Rich Carter – BlackSheep #47
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
For several years, I had a 2200W Yamaha generator mounted on the forward companionway sliding hatch cover. I made a canvas cover for it to keep sea spray and rain off it. It worked fine, but made too much noise. The unit I owned was fairly quiet, but in a quiet anchorage, this was even too noisy. I understand that these things are quieter than they used to be. If you don’t mind replacing it every few years, they would probably work well.
There were a couple of problems with the installation.
Placing the unit forward of the hatch also placed it forward of the head dorade vent.
Caution was needed to make sure that the cabin was properly ventilated.
The fuel tank was not removable. This made it awkward to refill. I had to lug a jerry-can around.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Walter
I’ve replaced almost everything in my Grunnert refrigeration system over the past 22 years. If you need pointers for repairing what you have, let me know.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
In theory, you can select your prop size to be 85% of the distance to the hull. If there’s currently 5″ of clearance with your 20″ prop, you could go as high as 25″ in diameter. In practice, I don’t know how close you can get before you start to get prop noise. At one time I had a two-blade 22″ prop and had no problem. A 20″ prop will start to cavitate at about 1200 RPM. With a 2:1 gear reduction, this translates to about 2400 RPM on the engine. If you go to a bigger prop with the same pitch, you’ll overload the engine. If you try to reduce pitch to get your engine speed back up, you’ll start to cavitate at shaft speeds of about 1000 RPM.
Why are you contemplating a larger prop?
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Alan
I completely agree with your comments about Sea-Frost. I’m the first to complain when I get bad service. It is only fair to complement when we get good service. We should add Sea-Frost to our recommended vendor list.The Kollman Marine book is great. I had it out just last weekend. I replaced my compressor over the winter and had to recharge my system.
Even if you don’t plan to service your own refrigeration, the book is filled with useful information about how they work and suggestions for improvement to existing systems. It’s well worth the cost. They sell two books. I have the do-it-youself book linked below.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/book.htmlThey have an second volume with information specific to 12v systems.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/manual.htm—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Most of us have probably replaced the black pastic fittings with brass. Home Depot sells a replacement that screws right in where the pastic ones are.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Aaron
I considered it when I repowerd my boat. In theory, it would be possible. Some glass-work would be required, but I would guess that the work would be no less difficult than replacing an engine bed.I wouldn’t even consider a Volvo-Penta. Yanmar makes a couple of models, but their largest is only 50HP. This would probably give performance similar to the W60. They used to have a 75hp model, but I don’t see it anymore. The 50hp engine is much smaller than the Westerbeke engines. This would leave quite a lot of room in the engine compartment forward of the engine; maybe enough for a small genset. I think prop rotation would be right-hand, so the boat would behave differently.
—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
I’m somewhat puzzled by the table complaints. I find that it works great for us. The way we all use our boats is different I’m sure. We frequently have five or six for dinner. Anything smaller would’t work for us.
Grab rails.
Our boat came with a single grab-rail just aft the center deck hatch in the main cabin. I think this is stock, but maybe I added it. I’ve made so many mods to the interior that I can’t remember exactly what was original. There’s another pair just inside the aft companionway hatch, one port, the other starboard.The boat has a grab rail that runs all the way along the lower edge of the inside of the coach-roof. I’m pretty sure that this is standard. I’m about 6’2″, so putting something else that hangs down from the underside of the coach roof would be something for me to whack my head on.
Nav station fiddles.
The whole design of the standard outboard facing Nav station is poor. The seat positions the navigator with his/her forehead just inches from the breaker panel. Many of us have modified the table. You might want to cruise through the photo-gallery for ideas before adding fiddles. I made the table wider and moved the seat inboard about 6″.—
Rich Carter
Original message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum