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When I purchased UNABATED 7 years ago it was a salt water boat having spent many years sailing around the Caribbean. The PO had replaced the rigging in 2000 (according to the sales listing anyhow). It does not take long for salt to make things appear older than what it really is. In the 7 years I have had the boat, it was in fresh water (Lake Ontario). I spent much time and money making it look good again. Bristol as they say.
It didn’t take long in Salt water again to see all my good work disappear. By the time I reached Bermuda, all I could say was….. “this boat will never look the same again” as I scraped off crusts of salt from 5 days as sea and a month traveling down the East Coast, only to find rust stains every where. Somehow during the next 10 months I resisted the urge to get the toothbrush out and start cleaning…. but I finally relented…..and got to work…… just have to keep it up…..
alan
PS when you pass Sodus Bay on your way out of the Great Lakes, CALL ME.— On Thu, 8/26/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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He really didn’t say anything new about the oil cooling. Except that the oil temp should not go above 130 else you destroy the properties of the oil….
I am not sure where the castings are made. They are finished in there. The gears and all the other parts are made in house. Looked like a viable operation. They’ll be around while.
alan— On Thu, 8/26/10, wrote:
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I have pictures of the area where the strut is attached to the hull if anyone is interested. I would have to say that it is pretty substantial design. The area is actually molded into the hull. After the strut is bolted to the hull ( sealed with silicone) there appears to be about 3/4″ of solid resin there. The last 3/8 – 1/2″ is built up with what looks like fairing compound. Because it’s not faired out too far (pretty much a square recess) is why there appears to be a constant crack around the area.
The strut went to a place in Baltimore called Miller Island to be straightened. The strut is a LARGE HEAVY casting.
AlanAlan
— On Wed, 8/25/10, Linus Martinez <> wrote:
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I purchased my 300′ of 5/16 HT chain from 1st Chain. The shipping was free, but had to go to Yellow Freight to pick it up however. The guys on the loading dock picked up the barrel of chain and put it in my pick em truck. I then drove out to the boat, which was in the yard at the time and loaded it (using the windlass) right out of the barrel. Easy peasy and never broke a sweat. Good company to deal with.
alan— On Wed, 8/25/10, wrote:
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I’ll be driving down to Va. this weekend, I’ll take some pictures.
What I found to help the castleing, was when I load the chain in, like at the dock, was make sure the 1st 150 feet or so was placed well aft. The 2nd 150 created a 2nd pile which helps keep the height of the pile down so when the chain is retrieved it does not get solid on you for the frequent shallow depths. Then all you have to worry about is the deep ones.
If you look at the times you actually anchor with more than 100 feet of chain out, it is not really too bad. Plus when you anchor and you know you have A LOT OF CHAIN out…. you can anticipate that you might have an issue in the morning so you can have a plan….. like to keep the boat hook down there to pull the pile over…. also to anticipate that you might be hanging on a hook that might be almost straight up and down while you run this fire drill…..
Like I said, I singlehand most of the time like many others here and have done this in very windy anchorages without issue….. A quirk of the boat….
alan— On Fri, 8/20/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters wrote:
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You might look at the pictures of UNABATED on the 424 website for my windlass installation.
Pearson did us no favors by their design, depth and location of the chain locker.
With a few exceptions, I anchored out every night for the almost nine months of my cruise though the Eastern Caribbean last winter. Moving frequently…. I use an all chain rode
(5/16 HT), 300 feet of it. No matter how you cut it, when you try to pile up more than 150 feet of it,,,,, it piles up under the pipe and gets “solid”. They call it castling. After many futile attempts at trying to redirect the chain I gave up. I know the limits and If I need to put more chain down….. i have a boat hook I keep in the V berth to pull the pile over. Unless there is a big swell running, in which case the pile falls over on it’s own. It’s not much of a problem. Rarely do you need that much chain. And I singlehand most of the time. I do have a windlass switch at the pedistal and I can see the chain kinked up from back there.
I believe Rich Carter has the same issues. For such a big boat. it has a small chain locker
Tor did some major mods to his locker. I did not want to go that far. I wanted room after of the locker to put my Solent Stay on and still be able to use the anchor locker. It’s a handy place to store smelly wet things.
alan— On Thu, 8/19/10, kalinowski wrote:
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I know that on my mizzen step it’s just a 1 inch (or so) pipe that goes down through the step. When I added the wind generator and a mizzen spreader light and an ethernet cable for the WiFi I added another pipe to pull the new cables though. I drilled a 1 inch hole to put in a piece of 3/4 pipe. There’s certainly enough room. You will need howere an extension of the drill bit because that beam is REALLY thick.
Not sure if that answers your question.
alan— On Mon, 8/16/10, hanks424 <> wrote:
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Thanks for the info guys.
It’s raining here and I am trying to figure out what I am going to need when I get down to Virginia.
I got the esitmate for the damage done when we hauled UNABATED. So far it’s around 4200 +/- 15%. (not including posible new shaft or prop). That’s for the insurance company. Now I am trying to figure out how much I can do myself…… All of it, if the boat was here and not 1000 miles away!
alan
— On Sun, 8/15/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:<.. snip>
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1700 for a new jack shaft?…. that’s not highway robbery…. that’s rape……. anyway around that… beside moving the engine?
alan— On Sun, 8/15/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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Rich,
I had the coupling off this winter so it “should” come right off. I should be able to save the parts.
As far as the strut is concerned…. 3 people have looked at and have come up with the same conclusion.
alan
— On Fri, 8/6/10, <> wrote:<.. snip>
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Great, thanks.
I’ll keep that in mind. I’ll be heading down to Deltaville in the next few weeks to start yanking the engine out. I’ll keep that in mind.
alan— On Fri, 8/6/10, quent <> wrote:
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We haven’t removed the old one yet to determine if it’s actually bent. The strut is clearly bent. I have found a source to get a new strut cast. Will have to wait on the shaft.
Is this shaft from a 424 or just a similar dia. and length?
alan— On Fri, 8/6/10, quent <> wrote:
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I had a slightly similar problem where the system would pump up and sit quiet for a few minutes then the pump would come on for a few seconds then sit quiet for a few minutes and son on and so forth.
After extensive troubleshooting and diagnostics it turned out to be a plugged charcoal filter under the galley sink that filters the pressure side of the system.
check it out
alan— On Thu, 7/22/10, Pete Dubler wrote:
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Hull 140, U shaped galley.
The solenoid is forward of the stove, forward of the wall that separates the smoked glass locker and the locker that is in the salon. I had to remove the shelves in the smoked glass locker before removing the teak panel. I had to replace the old copper line with a new hose.
Alan— On Thu, 7/22/10, pat noordsij <> wrote:
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The little copper washers are common to most diesel engines. You can stop in at a diesel truck repair shop and get them. Look for a place that rebuilds injectors and pumps. I get my injectors (W58) rebuilt at a farm machinery shop.
You also might have some luck in the mean time with taking the washer out and using some light sandpaper, 400 or 600 wet&dry and polishing them to take the little scores and ridges off. Make sure you clean them well before putting it back together.
alan.— On Wed, 7/21/10, JodyandStephen wrote:
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