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I am sure that’s true, although in John’s case according to his Blog, it failed on his way to Tortola and he replaced it after he arrived there. I was curious as to his particular unit and exact failure.
alan— On Tue, 11/23/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
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John,
It’s hard to say as I had the VDrive rebuilt at the same time. When I removed the transmission in order to place the engine in the stand, there was no doubt about the condition of the damper plate. Two of the springs were lying in the bell housing and the other springs were not far behind the same fate.
When all was placed back in the boat, aligned and started, I did not have that “clunking” sound anymore at low RPM’s (600-800) but like I say they replaced the joints inside the drive…. so…..
I do however now have a different sound coming from the VDrive more like a “Chatter” that goes away at after 800 RPMS. Walters says it’s OK….. I thought it should be pretty silent. I might remove it have it checked out one more time… as long as the boat is in the parking lot anyhow.
I frequently shift from fwd to rev without stopping….mmmmmm I wonder what disaster awaits me?
alan— On Mon, 11/22/10, John Stevenson wrote:
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Lowes also sells one for 19.00 that is a white spot and a RED flood. I use this for my night watches during overnight passages. Light weight and compfitable to use.
ALan— On Tue, 11/16/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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I always thought the speedo would have too much turbulence to be placed so far fwd. Especially on one tack or the other. Plus the pointy end bounces so much it would be out of the water half the time.
Mine is placed deep in the bilge where it would less effected and in the water on either tack.
Just my opinion
Alan
UNABATED
#140— On Sun, 10/17/10, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <> wrote:
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Antithetical?……….being in direct and unequivocal opposition
— On Thu, 10/14/10, SilverHeels <> wrote:
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Here is my take and I am sorry in advance if I sound like I am on a soap box and I don’t want to take away from anyone else’s working solution but……
Dedicated means just that, I don’t use it for anything else. It’s always charged and ready for use no matter what happens to anything else. Just like a dedicated starting battery, you don’t have that tied into your house bank (although you can).
My windless charging circuit is fused and switched at both ends.
I use an Exide group 27 starting battery worth about 80 bucks. If you tied your windlass battery into the house bank it would have to be the same size and type AND have the same size wires to it.
Welding cable is not tinned. I spent my life in fresh water and this past year I got quite an education on the evils of salt water. Why start out behind the eight ball with something you know is going to corrode and will have to be maintained constantly?
Without a battery up front, your going to have to run 80 feet of heavy expensive wire.
We sailors tend to cheap out on certain details and then moan and groan when stuff fails to operate properly ( and at the worse possible time).
Alan— On Wed, 10/13/10, Pete Dubler <> wrote:
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…. and in reality, although the windlass draws 150 amps, it is only “on” for less than 2 or 3 minutes. So what that means is the actual number of amps “consumed” is not really all that much. ( 2.5 amps per minute – give or take and that is at max draw which rarely happens anyhow) You most likely will have engine running when you raise the anchor so the battery will be recharged quickly. You can use on ECHO charger connected to the house bank or starting bank. This will charge the windless battery anytime the charging voltage gets over a set point voltage (I think around the 14.xxx range).
Using this method the charging wire that is run from the back of the boat to the pointy end can be like a 6 ga wire.
It is more important to have LARGE cables between the battery and the windless to keep the voltage drop to a minimum and the heat loses down.
FWIW, I have a 2nd ECHO charge setup to charge my starting battery.
Hope this helps
Alan
unabated— On Tue, 10/12/10, kalinowski <> wrote:
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I added a group 27 battery under the V Berth for the windless. It is connected to the charging system via an Echo charge unit.
If don’t do this you will need to run VERY BIG wires the length of the boat. Very Expensive and very HEAVY wires.
I check the water in the windless battery once a year and never had to add water. I anchored out every day for almost a year and never had an issue with charging the battery. This would include picking up the anchor several times before either getting it to hold or finding a suitable spot.
Alan— On Mon, 10/11/10, kalinowski <> wrote:
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I used the teak spacers. the cabin thickness is around an 1/8″, if that.. So you need to purchase the spacers
alan
unabated— On Thu, 10/7/10, Philippe Fontaine <> wrote:
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I am heading down to Deltaville this morning to start re-assembling UNABATED. I’ll probably be down there at least a week.
Am I any where near you…. close enough for a beer?
alan— On Sun, 9/19/10, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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I used the Trinidad SR also – 4 cans, 2 coats with a 3rd around the waterline. Held up well for the most part. Peeled a little in the same spots it always peels…worn on the leading edges. but not a big issue with me. I want to switch to RED from the Black.
Question – Can I paint over the black ( after roughing it up a little) with the RED. The boat is and will be out of the water for a few months….. Or do I have to start from scratch…..?
Alan— On Tue, 9/7/10, Joseph Steiner wrote:
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I remember when I was a teenager and was heavy into buying and selling cars. If the car had a noisy rear end – we’d stuff it full of Bananas and sawdust….. it quieted it down enough and long enough to sell the car…..Hey I was 17….. what did I know.
alan— On Thu, 9/2/10, Robert Fine wrote:
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Just as I was reading this, Don Walters called me to let me know what the situation of my V drive was. It can be rebuilt with some reliability. There was one bearing seized. The input spline needed to be replaced (seal surface worn) and the output flange surface needed to be cleaned up. Various rusted bolts, gaskets and typical parts to be replaced including the crosses in the u-joints. All this included a new blue paint job – for around 1500…. less than 1/2 the cost of a new one.
While we were on the phone I asked him about the 90wt oil….. he said….. SAE 30 OR APG 80 (made by Lubriplate). He did say don’t get APG 80 mixed up with 90wt Gear Oil, they are way different. APG 80 has about the same VISCOSITY as SAE 30.
These are HELICAL gears which have different surface areas and different PRESSURE points. Hence the SAE 30. Not like HYPOID gears like in an automobile which uses 90 WT gear oil.
So……..
Alan— On Thu, 9/2/10, Silver Heels wrote:
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“Fluid temperature
grossly affects chemical stability and particularly the oxidation rate
of the basic elements of the oil. The primary accelerator of all
oxidation reactions is temperature. Like any other reaction, the
oxidation rate of hydrocarbons will approximately double for every 18
degrees Fahrenheit increase in temperature. Below 140°F, the reaction is
comparatively slow, but engineers estimate that the life of an oil is
reduced 50 percent for every 15 degrees Fahrenheit temperature rise
above 140°F, according to the Arrhenius equation for chemical reaction
rates. Hence, for high-temperature applications, the oxidation stability
of an oil can have great significance and users should assess it
carefully.— On Thu, 8/26/10, wrote:
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