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Over the winter I built a one piece window to fit in there in place of the 3 boards. I also built a one piece screen. I used 1/4″ LEXAN for the window and some nylon screen for the other. I used teak for the frames purchased from http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/.
He’s pretty easy to work with and I thought his prices were ok. The wood is very nice.
I used 1 7/8 X 3/4 wood.
Pictures later if you insist
alan

— On Thu, 5/7/09, Lee Yonkers <> wrote:

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I know that white stripe looks nice between the bottom paint and the boot strip but…. when you get filthy harbour water on that white strip it never gets clean. I’ve always bottom painted up to the boot stripe. The PO had already done this for me on this boat……
alan

— On Wed, 5/6/09, pat noordsij <> wrote:

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Cutting the top is easy. I used a jig saw where I could fit it and a dremel for the rest. It’s just formica. I cut a 2nd opening in the top for a freezer and a side opening for to get to the bottom of the refer. Pictures are on the 424 gallery.
alan

— On Mon, 5/4/09, Rick Dugger <> wrote:

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Don’t care much for my childhood memories.
….Acetone and a stiff brush
a

— On Wed, 4/29/09, adam silverstein <> wrote:

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I’ve painted most of mine with BilgeCoat. Then added a layer of Reflectix.
alan

— On Wed, 4/29/09, howard <> wrote:

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Thanks, I must have missed it in the catalog..
alan

— On Sun, 4/26/09, <> wrote:

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The reason I asked is because I am going to purchase the wire this week and I wanted to make sure. I was looking at the Sta-Lock fittings and one for the 5/16 wire comes with a 1/2 inch pin. Now, following Jack Tylers plan for the mast head fitting, I had a 5/8 hole put in. I am now questioning the wisdom of that…… mmmmm something else to ask RiggingOnly about.
thanks
alan

— On Sun, 4/26/09, John Stevenson <> wrote:

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John, you were right…. the blocks were put into keep from hitting the ends of the hydralic cylinder. I should have thought of that.
Thanks for your input.
Alan

— On Sat, 4/25/09, John Stevenson wrote:

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When I did my seacocks, I found out that there are rebuild kits available….. new seals, seats and balls…….
alan

— On Tue, 4/21/09, Chuck Ruble <> wrote:

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Depends on what you need. Torrensen is a good source to start with. I’ve been able to get common parts… They are not cheap though.
alan

— On Thu, 4/16/09, Patrick Walters wrote:

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Pictures would be much appreciated.
alan

— On Tue, 4/14/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:

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The output side the heat exchanger and the coolant tanks are 1 1/4 (measured).
I know that sealing hose this way is not correct. Just need to find a suitable solution.
The engine was removed before I bought the boat to replace the fuel tank. I think they cut the hoses and put it back in any which way. I am left to clean up the mess.
Just trying to figure out what was there orginally.
alan

— On Tue, 4/14/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:

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Paul,
If you have a chance before you leave give me a call. The number I have for you must be your “work” number.
Sorry I am going to missing this trip. I’ll be there May 20th for a trip from Georgetown to Norfolk.
alan

— On Mon, 4/13/09, Paul Lefebvre <> wrote:

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Thanks Tor,
Is that 5/8 or 3/4 inch hose? I think 4gpm should be enough volume.
alan

— On Mon, 4/13/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:

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Brackets for the MOB pole. The connect with wire ties to a shroud.
I have a set of those also.
alan

— On Sun, 4/12/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:

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