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ParticipantOK, So where are you getting the water from, as in which thru hull. What kinf of pump? Where did you run the hose to? Using a Spigot?
alan— On Sun, 4/12/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:
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ParticipantThanks Bob,
I am going to replace the hose with hardwalled exhaust. Then remove the plastic fittings and replace with bronze with a backing pad. I plan on using:The plan is, as of now,to take the boat to St Martin in the fall….. probably offshore from New York or Virginia.
alan
— On Wed, 4/8/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:Quote:<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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ParticipantThe question I am wrestling with, according to ABYC standards, anything below the water line at max heel, needs a proper sea cock. Now, for 30 plus years these plastic fittings have been there with no sea cock and have done just fine. I am trying to justify the cost of 3 new 1 1/2″ sea cocks and hasle of putting them in, backing pads and all.
Just do it and shut up?
alan— On Wed, 4/8/09, Alan P <> wrote:
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ParticipantMy W58 is not wire like that. My buttons operate independently.
alan— On Wed, 4/8/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:
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ParticipantI cant’ imagine the boom twisting away unless the block does not have a swivel on it. I always like to have at least a 2 part purchase on it so I can adjust the topping lift. A trick when racing, not that these boats are anywhere near fast, but…in light air, the weight of the boom is too heavy and pulls any shape out of the main. You can tighten up on the topping lift a little bit and get the shape (draft) back to looking like a sail
alan— On Tue, 4/7/09, sumocean <> wrote:
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ParticipantI also have a one piece frame that is fitted with a piece of lexan. Keep it behind the door in the aft cabin.
I just got done building one just like it that has just a screen in it.
alan— On Mon, 4/6/09, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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ParticipantSpeaking of drop boards. By what method does everyone use to hold them in place when used underway, let’s say in ” heavy” weather conditions. I believe some of the race orgs. mention that they must be secured in case of a broach or worse.
alan— On Mon, 4/6/09, Rich Carter <> wrote:
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ParticipantOne of the things I’ve learned, is not to use bar soap in the shower. The same thing that makes it into a bar – makes it solid again in the sump. Since I’ve switched to “body wash” – no more standing water in the shower…. drains very nicely!
alan— On Wed, 4/1/09, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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ParticipantThe holding tank vent on my old Catalina 30 went up into a stanchion. It had a pipe welded to the bottom of the stanchion that went through the deck. I like that idea so much, I added another stanchion just like it to vent the water tank.
alan— On Wed, 4/1/09, <> wrote:
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ParticipantI checked it out this weekend. The latches extend 1/2″ inch beyond the max dimension of the port. In the case of the shower, if you remove the moldings then your still 1/4 – 3/8 inches short of using the 6×20 port….. oh well… it wont be so bad to have a picture window in the shower… Does your SO use curtains? the 8x……it will fit just fine.
alan— On Sun, 3/29/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
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ParticipantTor, Thanks for the pictures. That’s exactly what I want to do.
Have you been able to establish whether the screw go further than just that flimsy piece of vaneer or into the bulkhead? Type of screw or length?
BTW, what model RADAR is that?
alan— On Fri, 3/27/09, Silver Heels <> wrote:
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ParticipantThe chart Plotter is going to be mounted on the cabin top, under the dodger (I think right now). The radar display (Furuno 1715 light weight LCD), I want mounted on the aft cabin bulkhead on the Nav Station side.
Thru bolting it seems like the best idea, just don’t want the head of the bolts in the cockpit… Looks sloppy…. Does not seem like screwing it in the thin plywood is a good solution either….
I wonder, is the bulkhead cored or sold glass or sandwiched plywood that I can put a couple of lag bolts into? Anyone know?
a— On Fri, 3/27/09, John Stevenson <> wrote:
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ParticipantBob
Can you explain the patterns a little bit more. You used a router? PIctures of the pattern. This is new to me…. although I own a router.
thanks
alan— On Mon, 3/23/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:
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ParticipantPatrick,
The reason I asked about whether you got the ports installed or purchased is this:
In the shower the overall length of window can’t be any larger than 22 inches (wall to wall measurement). The length of the 8×18 port is 21 1/4″. Now, on the longer ports they have 4 latches ( 2 on the bottom and 1 on each side). The 5×12 only have 2 latches. I am concerned that the 2 side latches may not be able to rotate fully to release the port to open.
That the lever on the latch will interfere with the wall.
So, have you thought about that? Do you have the 8×18 port on hand to check?
Anyone else doing the NFM ports been there yet?
thanks
alan
“UNABATED” #140— On Wed, 2/4/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:
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ParticipantI think question we all have is the water cooling issue. I know some of the folks have either taken the water off or lined the cooling jacket with epoxy. Do you have any suggestions for cooling and minimizing the cooling jacket being eaten away?
alan— On Fri, 3/20/09, Don C., Walter Machine <> wrote:
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