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I have seen chocks for 1 1/4 line. But none that have a 6 inch bolt center.
All of them stainless, which would not be a problem. I suppose I could drill a new hole. That would not bother me either.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On May 17, 2014, at 7:45 PM, “Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.” wrote:Several years ago, I had to replace both Bow chocks and I think I found the chocks at defender industries. I know I found them on-line. The replacements we exact replacements and used the same holes. It may take some research, but you should be able to find exact matches.
s
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And it smells nice and lemony
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2014, at 8:46 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
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And it smells nice
Sent from my iPhone
On May 13, 2014, at 8:46 AM, John Stevenson wrote:
Old English Lemon wood oil because it is sold in grocery stores and it
doesn’t darken the teak.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:26 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Murphy’s Oil Soap, since all my teak is finished.
Bob
On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Silverheels
wrote:What oil are you using on the teak belowdecks. Why?
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Lots of boats use a device to bend the mast. On a 424 I doubt your going to bend mast too much. More like just tension the forestay. Pulling the whole rig back.
AlanSent from my iPhone
Quote:On May 10, 2014, at 9:23 AM, dave jones wrote:Bob et al,
Sounds like a neat idea. My only concern would be that you would be changing the direction of load from the stays to the chainplates from the design. Do you think that that would be a problem?
Dave
Quote:On 5/10/14, 7:32 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
This is just a quick drawing, but you’ll get the idea.Bob
Quote:On Sat, May 10, 2014 at 7:46 AM, Silverheels wrote:Bob,
You wrote, “use a loop of amsteel to link all three blocks together…” What
are you describing here? Is this a way to tension split or double
backstays? Can you sketch the general idea of how it assembles? If there’s
a way to get Silverheels to point 10° higher I’d like to employ it.Thanks,
Tor
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None of the islands in the eastern Caribbean even looked that close at the documentation papers.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 8, 2014, at 10:07 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Looking at the USCG Documentation for our 424, it shows the gross tonnage as “24 GRT” Now really that should be 24,000 pounds and not 24 tons. (The net tonnage is shown as “22 NGT”. I tried to get the Doc Center to change that as I understand that port fees go by tonnage. They said since it was originally filed that way that it cannot be corrected. What does your doc say and has this been a problem in foreign ports?
Thanks,
Pete
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Not only are you slowing down by pinching, there’s a heck of a lot more leeway on that boat. also the boat is very slow to tack so the less tacks the better.
Unless of course you got one hell of a wind then All bets are off.Sent from my iPhone
On May 8, 2014, at 5:57 PM, “cstewart” wrote:
Tor, I feel like I was sailing 45 degrees off the wind tacking on 90. I know that sounds unreal but we were out-sailing some pointing type boats. My old Pearson 323 never got close to that. Yes, I did slow down the more I pinched, but I kept looking for that happy medium. The age old question still persists: is it better to lay off the line for more speed or go for fewer tacks? I’m not that good a tactition to know the answer. I just got lucky.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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Also make buss vars larger. You may wish to add solar, wind sources. Also some devices work better when connected to buss bar rather than dc panel ie. SSB or refer. Still fused but direct connections.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2014, at 9:16 AM, “Paperbird” wrote:
I’ve been using the Echo charger for a couple years now and am very pleased. I have 2: 1 charging the start battery, the other charging a windlass battery in the bow. Both of those batteries stay full charged and don’t require any switches or monitoring.
So I would second Craig’s comment re the charger connection to the start battery being redundant.
One additional thought is that I’ve read a number of reports about 1-2-both-off switches failing. So I ‘switched’ to all on-off switches. 1 for the house, 1 for the start battery, and 1 to cross connect them. The cross-connect is situated so I can either start the engine from the house, or power the house from the start battery (very unlikely).
I opted for the Victron monitor. So far am very happy with it. Although Compass Marine has just done some tests on some less expensive alternatives that might be worth considering.
couple other nits to consider:
– circuit protection on the echo charger (15A)
– connect the 40A charger to the positive bus bar to reduce connections to the batteries
– circuit protection between alternator and bus bar
– circuit protection between bus bar and DC panelI have a schematic of our system if you’d like – email if you’d like it .
S/V Paperbird
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Shunts are used for amp meters. Volt meters don’t use shunts.
Better to purchase one of the fancy digital meters that show amps in and out
ASent from my iPhone
On May 6, 2014, at 9:21 PM, “cbboat” wrote:
Since my batteries are fried, I’ll redo the battery wiring when I replace the batteries.
Here is a diagram of my plan and a few questions.
Existing equipment: AC powered charger, Group 27 start battery, alternator, starter, On/Off and 1-both-2-off switches
Batteries will be four US Battery US2200 XC 6v batteries @ 232 AH.
Two of them wired in series, the two pair wired parallel to total of 464AH.
Here is the diagram.1. Is this going to work?
2. What am I missing?
3. What meter do I need (current meter is analog volt meter). Will a digital voltmeter connected to both banks suffice? I want to measure volts coming out of alternator and I don’t know what I want to measure on the house bank, any recommendations on amp/volt/AH meters?
4. I suppose I need to have some kind of meter on the start battery to keep an eye on that. meter that shows the voltage of the starter battery?
5. When wiring alternator output directly to the house battery, does the wire have to be wired directly to the battery’s positive terminal or can it go through a bus bar, as shown in diagram? Same question for the echo charger lead to the house bank. Dashed lines indicate input cable going directly to the positive terminal, rather than through a bus bar.
The diagram is drawn in normal operating position, where the 1-both-2-off switch is on 1, connecting house bank with DC panel and ON/Off set for On so starter pulls from starter battery.
The diagram shows shunts for meters. If I have a volt meter connected to the pos terminal, do I need a shunt? Should the voltmeter be connected to the shunts?
The alternator is wired to house and echo charger sends excess to starter.
110volt battery charger connected directly to both banks (starter and house).If starter battery fails, I change the 1-both-2-Off switch to Both and use house bank to start engine.
If house bank fails, I change to 2 and use start for house (hope I don’t do that accidentally!).
Fuses: one on each positive battery cable, where else?
Thanks,
Craig[Image: http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y520/scherzoja/electrical/BatteryRewire_zpsa977c69a.jpg ]
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On May 3, 2014, at 8:09 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Here’s your reply.
On Sat, May 3, 2014 at 8:01 PM, wrote:
“admin” has posted a reply to a thread you’re watching.
You can view the thread and reply at the following URL:https://pearson424.org/tiki12/tiki-view_forum_thread.php?forumId=1&comments_parentId=47#threadId1
Message:
This is now the 5th test from Tiki12. Closing in on the final productif one person could answer – it would be nice.
thanks
– pat
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Sent from my iPhone
On May 3, 2014, at 8:01 PM, wrote:
“admin” has posted a reply to a thread you’re watching.
You can view the thread and reply at the following URL:https://pearson424.org/tiki12/tiki-view_forum_thread.php?forumId=1&comments_parentId=47#threadId1
Message:
This is now the 5th test from Tiki12. Closing in on the final productif one person could answer – it would be nice.
thanks
– pat
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So what’s wrong with a can of compressed air type of horn.
I keep one on my binnacle at all times in the coffee cup holder. Comes in handy in the middle of the night as you slide backwards thru the anchorage. It’s right there, you don’t have fumble around. One hold blowing the horn, the other hand trying to start the engine.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
Quote:On Apr 21, 2014, at 3:40 PM, Rodd wrote:Rich-
Yes, that’s the world of boating! One thing leads to the next, etc etc.,
and always to more money spent!
Good luck with the horns.Rodd
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When the glow plug relay closes it draws a lot of current so there’s a lot of arcing that goes on. I would suggest that you cleaned the contacts on that relay. Over the years they become corroded and pitted and make a very high resistance circuit.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Apr 14, 2014, at 6:34 AM, “quent” wrote:
Hi Charlie
Could be a high resistance connection between the battery and the glow plugs. Suggest you clean up all the connections, including the relay and see if you get better voltage.
You can check the glow plugs by disconnecting them and checking each of them with an ohm meter. Should all be about the same resistance. Open circuit means that one is fried.
A full minute of preheat sounds like a lot ot me, but I have no direct experience with a W-60. Engines get harder to cold start if compression is low, or the starter is not spinning the engine fast enough.
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You can purchase, a plug in GPS module that work on any tablet or laptop. So you come across a device that does not have an internal gps, that will work too.
I have found “the GPS store” to have just about anything marine you need an st good prices. No tax no shipping on a lot of items.
Alan
UnabatedSent from my iPhone
On Mar 25, 2014, at 8:42 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Once you’re more than 12 miles or so offshore no tablet will have access.
As long as the charts are loaded and there is an internal GPS it doesn’t
matter what kind of wireless system it has.The store geek doesn’t or cant comprehend what you’re trying to do.
Remember, most people can’t fathom being at sea outside wireless service.
Bob
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.On Mar 25, 2014 8:33 PM, “typhoontye” wrote:
Looks like a nice pad, Linus but it’s still WiFi only so it won’t work
offshore as a backup. At least that is what the rep with Navionics tells
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I’ve had mine rebuilt and tested at an over the road diesel truck repair place. 50-$60 bucks, comes with the new washer.
If the old one is a little hard to come out, don’t pry on it. loosen up the bolts a little bit, turn the engine over they will just pop out. keep the Bolts in place. make sure the whole area is clean clean clean.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Mar 5, 2014, at 8:38 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
You need a new copper washer. If you have to use the old one, you need to
anneal it again (heat it over the stove until red, let air cool) so that it
seals properly.If you purchase them as Westerbeke washers, I’m sure multi $, if from
Tractor Supply or somewhere, $.50 or so, maybe less.Bob
On Wed, Mar 5, 2014 at 8:20 AM, skipmac wrote:
I’m thinking I should pull the injectors from my spare engine and have
then tested and rebuilt as needed and add to my spares.So never having had to replace an injector is there anything more than
pulling the old one, inserting the new, torqueing down the bolts that hold
it in, attach the fuel lines and go? Any special concerns?_______________________________________________
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Injectors definitely in group one. AND know how to replace them yourself!
Would have saved me from having to sail into Bermuda in the middle of the night in a blinding rainstorm.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On Mar 4, 2014, at 6:21 PM, “skipmac” wrote:
Regarding spares, I divide mine into two groups.
Group 1. The parts that fall into one or more of these categories.
– fail most commonly
– will leave you dead in the water
– I can replace with onboard tools or in a remote or third world locationGroup 2. The expensive or hard to find parts that I would probably need a mechanic, shop or assistance to replace but still might get my engine back up and running short of a bottom end rebuld.
First group would be starter, water pump(s) or pump rebuild kits, fuel pump, alternator and the usual filters and such. Maybe include spare injectors and glow plugs.
Second group would be things like the injector pump, head and head gasket, valve train parts.
Group one parts I would carry with me if going far from home. Group two would probably store at home but have some way to get them sent to me if needed.
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