[unabated]

You see, marine refrigeration is part art and part
science. Way too many variables. Before you spend
upwards of 2-3k on a system, you probably better be
sure of what heck you are doing or at least close to
the right thing or have a darn good back-up plan.
This January, as I was about to put router to counter
top, I said a little prayer. Either I am a hero, or I
just made the biggest mistake in my life (no that’s
not true,I was married once).
So far I am pretty pleased, but I’ll have to wait for
the warm weather to get here.
I now have access to the top thru a top lid. The
bottom thru a front opening door and access to the
freezer section thru a 2nd top opening lid.
4cu ft refer and a 3 cu freezer. Before anyone gets
their panties twisted, the front opening door is a
good idea in that I no longer have to take everything
out to get to the bottom of the cooler. I can now just
reach in and grab the stuff in the lower part.
Remember my PO had already modified the box, so it
does not looks like any of yours.
It’s only 13 inches wide and 4 feet deep and 48 inches
long along the top. Too deep for my short arms.

alan

— wrote:

Quote:

Alan
I completely agree with your comments about
Sea-Frost. I’m the first to complain when I get bad
service. It is only fair to complement when we get
good service. We should add Sea-Frost to our
recommended vendor list.

The Kollman Marine book is great. I had it out just
last weekend. I replaced my compressor over the
winter and had to recharge my system.

Even if you don’t plan to service your own
refrigeration, the book is filled with useful
information about how they work and suggestions for
improvement to existing systems. It’s well worth
the cost. They sell two books. I have the
do-it-youself book linked below.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/book.html

They have an second volume with information specific
to 12v systems.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/manual.htm

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

With any project, you need to learn the language. In
this case, refrigeration. This is not a drop in kinda
thing. The size of your “box” and the requirements for
food storage, both in time and quantiy will lead you
down different paths. Also where you plan on saiing.
High lats or low.
Check out http://www.kollmann-marine.com/
Buy his book, commit it to memory.
Then when your ready to buy, send your specs out to
all the Marine Refrigertion people. With luck,
someone might even answer you. In my opinion, Clieve
Horton from SeaFrost is the only guy to deal with. He
will spend the time to answer every question, look at
your drawings, make suggestions and all before you buy
a thing.
Besides that Hylas uses SeaFrost…. enough said.
Before you go too far, you will need to analize your
electrical storage and renewal capacities.
Insulate,Insulate,Insulate. My PO did me a favor (only
one) by having the stock box removed and had 6 inches
of insulation put in along with a new smaller box. Too
bad he didn’t put in access to most of the space.
More to follow, I actually have some work to do.
alan

— Patrick Walters <> wrote:

Quote:

I LOVE that part…. do tell. 😉

-p

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[unabated]

I put in a SeaFrost. BD50 with 2 thin plates. BUT my
friend, that is only about 50% of the project.
The rest is ugly details.
ap
— Patrick Walters <> wrote:

Quote:

What brand is it?

-p

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 |
http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog |
http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

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[unabated]

I am thinking there 3/8… only cause I remember
thinking I wished they wre 1/2″
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I’ll look at my spares when I get home.

Bob

On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 5:57 AM, Indulgence
<> wrote:

Does anyone know what the width of the alternator

belt is on the w58?

Thanks

---

John Sommer
Indulgence #179
Portland, ME

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[unabated]

So, did we kill the sail drive project?
Who’s up next?

Wednesdays are boring….

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[unabated]

My boat neighbor got a brand spanking new Tartan 3400
last year. What a piece of sh**. The saildrive and the
boat. He had an oil leak in the drive. In order to
repair it they had to haul the boat, grind out a big
hunk of fibreglass fairing. After replacing the
seal(in which the lower unit had to be removed) they
spent two days refairing the hull. Progres??? I’ll
take the old stuff anyday. At least I can repair it
myself, anywhere!
alan
#140

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[unabated]

I bought my own red paint and painted my parts.
Is that like having a fake Rolex?
alan
— Pete Dubler <> wrote:

That red paint is really expensive.

Aaron Lynch wrote:

Uh, yeah, just what I was thinking 🙂

On 5/14/08 7:08 PM, Paul Lefebvre wrote :

If Torrenson is selling those for $44., it

will be interesting to

see what
they shipped to Aaron for $140. I assume it is

something more than

just
painting them red.

Paul

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[unabated]

Bob,
Did you get your TWIC card yet?
Is it the OS or AB that gets you into the PX?
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Aaron,

The only license additionally I have is my MMD card
– I’m an OS or Ordinary
Seaman – but still. I’m going to go to Lifeboat
School and to Firefighting
School to get my AB (Able Bodied Seaman) or since
I’m an engineer by
training and trade, I’ll check out the QMED stuff.

But you can have an OS card for the asking plus
$150.

Bob

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[unabated]

I thought this was taken care of with Tor’s Beta
version.
alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Rick,

No, they didn’t fit exactly, but exactly enough for
me.

Bob

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 7:07 PM, Rick Dugger
<> wrote:

I took one down to the boat and placed it on deck.

Actual installation

will be a winter project. It appears that I will

need to place a 1/2″ to

5/8″ block under the outboard leg to make

everything fit. Bob did you need

to do this or did they fit the curvature of the

deck OK?

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 8:18 AM, alan P

<> wrote:

Anyone install the mast pulpits yet?

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[unabated]

So Rich, How do you get your boat home? HOw much stuff
do you have to take off? Do you live far from the
water? Must be nice to have it right outside you door.
alan

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[unabated]

and when do we get to hear them? Anything we should
know about?
alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Yup, and boy do I have some stories…

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 6:18 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Anyone install the mast pulpits yet?

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[unabated]

Kinda hard to keep fenders in place like that huh?
Ok, so you had the Staysail recut. Sorry I miss read
your web site. I was trying to get some approximate
Foot,Leach and Luff measurements. At least a place to
start from. Would your sailmaker remember?
alan

— John Stevenson <> wrote:

Alan,
I didn’t have the Storm Jib re-cut, just had the ATN
sleeve removed and
hanks added. I had the staysail recut this winter.
I honestly don’t know
what the sail area is. It was re-cut to allow the
sail to be sheeted inside
the shrouds not to a specific size. It is about 1/2
the size of the
original sail which was a modification to a working
jib on the 424, so that
might give you some idea.
I’ve decided that I will sheet the staysail to
tracks on the forward edges
of the coach roof. I’ll use track primarily to
spread the load. I haven’t
yet decided how I’ll bring the sheets back to the
cockpit. I don’t expect
to start on that work for another month or so.
Right now I’m waiting for the water level to go back
down below the level of
the dock. We’re still 2 hours away from high tide
and the dock is under 6″
of water. East winds at the mouth of the Chesapeake
are a bitch, especially
at this dock which was built about 2′ too low.

John

On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 7:12 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Question for John Stevenson;
John, when you had your Storm Jib recut, what

were

the final dimensions?
Have you come up with a sheet arrangement?
thanks
alan

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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

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[unabated]

141
no
yes
— pat <> wrote:

ok – so now i want to do some correlation. Please
send to:
the following very brief email:

Hull number (ex: 178):
Offset (ex: yes meaning I believe the shaft on my
boat is off center or no
etc): Yes or No
Pull stbd while in forward: Yes or No

so my boat:
Hull Number: 178
Offset: No
Pull stbd while in forward: No

Please don’t reply to the list. I’ll put together
the responses.

pat

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[unabated]

It’s little unnerving at first…..

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hmm, I’ll try that on my first outing. I think I
can, I think I can, I
think I can get to 2700….

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:49 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Exactly right – at 80% – 2700 I SHOULD be able to

run

the engine without it being overloaded (the black
smoke). Not that I WANT to but I should be able to

do

it. Now that I have the pitch at 12 inches I feel
better.
alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Adam,

That seems right. I’m wondering why you’d want

to

run the engine above
about 2 grand? Sure, the red line is like 3400

rpm,

at least for the W58,
and it has been said that diesels ‘like’ to run

at

80% of their max speed
(or 2720 for the W58) (which I think is

bullcrap,

mostly because just
because you can do a thing doesn’t mean you

should

do that thing), but with
any machinery, running slower is probably

running

better.

Not only that, but it’s so noisy at higher

speeds…

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:30 AM, adam silverstein
<> wrote:

Excellent survey question. Cruise 1800-2000,

fuel

burn 3/4 to 1 1/4 gph.

Speed 6-6 3/4 kn

-Adam Silverstein(via iPhone)

On May 8, 2008, at 7:05 AM, “Robert Fine”

<> wrote:

Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5

knots. I can get the

engine up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it’s

trying to climb out of the

water. At 1900 rpm it’s burning about 3/4

gallon

per hour. At 2200, it’s

burning nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in

speed

of at most a knot isn’t

worth it, I just cruise right along.

What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel

consumption?

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P <

<>

> wrote:

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly

because I

thought I should have more engine RPM’s

before

the

engine started to bellow black smoke. I have

a

W58 and

now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I

ever

run it

that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan
— Syringa <

<>>

wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from

Bellingham!

I

have been looking into the prop pull on

Syringa as

you know. (This is when the vessel is

under

steady

steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above)

(not

backing or docking) I don’t believe the

shaft

is

off set (if it is it’s not much) and

should

not

account for that much pull. The prop may

be

over

pitched. I will let you know if or when I

come up

with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has

changed

propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

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[unabated]

Thats the problem. Last year I topped off the tank
before putting it on the hard for the winter. Who
knows the speed and RPM’s done over the summer. Where
we sail, if there’s wind on the bay, we motor out for
5 minutes, sail for 6 hours and then motor back in for
5 minutes. I think I used 15 gallons the entire
summer.
Beckie had neck surgery so we didn’t go anywhere.
Not sure about this summer.
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Alan,

I came up with the numbers (which are very close to
yours, by the way, at
least before you re-pitched the prop) by filling the
tank, running for 10
hours to get somewhere in no wind and then filling
the tank again. Believe
me, that’s not what’s going to happen this year as
last year when I bought
the boat my goal was to empty the three year old
fuel as quickly as
possible.

That’s not the case this year…

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 4:37 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Actualy I am rather embarrassed to say “I am not
sure”.
The four or five trips I have made up to the 1000
Islands (about 80 – 90 miles) with this boat, I
figured I got about 1 to 1&1/4 Gallons/Hr – speed
around 6.5 to 7 knots RPM’s 2200.
Since Ive repitched the prob last summer, I have

not

taken any long trips – just the 3 mile hike to the
outlet to sail.
I havent kept track of the usage.
At 2500 RPM’s the ass end of the boat really gets
buried and it takes two hands to steer but the 7.5
knots get’s me out the lake sooner. At 5$ a gallon
I’ll be more careful in the future.
I wished there was a better way to guess fuel
consumption. Motoring a couple of miles and then
heading back to the fuel dock on Sodus Bay is

PITA.

Oh, and our fuel gauges work so well!
Maybe I’ll make a point to do a better job this

summer

since I won’t be able to sail for awhile – Getting

my

arm fixed.
How did you come up with those numbers?

alan

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Really? I cruise at 1900-2000 rpm at 6 to 6.5
knots. I can get the engine
up to 2400 rpm, but by that point it’s trying

to

climb out of the water.
At 1900 rpm it’s burning about 3/4 gallon per

hour.

At 2200, it’s burning
nearly 2 gal/hr. Since the gain in speed of at

most

a knot isn’t worth it,
I just cruise right along.

What are your experiences with speed/rpm/fuel
consumption?

Bob

On Thu, May 8, 2008 at 3:17 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

I repitched mine from a 13 to a 12. Mainly

because

I

thought I should have more engine RPM’s before

the

engine started to bellow black smoke. I have a

W58

and

now can get it past 2800 rpms. Not that I ever

run

it

that high, mostly cruise at 22 to 2400.
alan
— Syringa <> wrote:

Patrick

Hope you had a good trip back from

Bellingham!

I

have been looking into the prop pull on

Syringa

as

you know. (This is when the vessel is under

steady

steaming in forward at 1800 rpm or above)

(not

backing or docking) I don’t believe the

shaft

is

off set (if it is it’s not much) and should

not

account for that much pull. The prop may

be

over

pitched. I will let you know if or when I

come

up

with the answer.

I would like to hear from anyone who has

changed

propellers or reduced the pitch.

Thanks
Don
Syringa

---

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