[unabated]

I put a set of SnakeRiver tank sensors on last year.
The 4 tank model.
Can’t get more reasonable in price or ease of install.
http://www.snake-river.org/Products.asp
ap
— wrote:

One of the recurring threads of this topic is the
difficulty in determining the tank level when
filling. If you can’t determine level, it is easy
to overfill. I’ve looked for a reasonably priced
level gauge for the water tanks and have yet to find
anything. If you are in the process of replacing
the access plates, now would be a good time to
consider adding a gauge. If anyone comes across a
good solution, please let me know.
—
Rich Carter
BlackSheep #47

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[unabated]

1981
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

What year is your W58?

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:53 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

I rewired my engine last winter. No electric fuel
pump.
ap

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I’ll take a picture tonight and send it along.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:32 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump.

I

know

I don’t (w58). I have one purchased but not

installed

(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some

engines

(maybe even ours) they’re
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due

to

the

fact they’re in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other

metals

corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive

force

will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires

more

torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the

leak

the

nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the

inch-lb

range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason

those

tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least

expensive

part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the

injectors or

fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual

pump

it

should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector

lines.

Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines.

Sometimes it

requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I

haven’t

looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine

isn’t

working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won’t be able to prime

it

properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for

a

bit

until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops

or

slows

considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it

usually

starts. It’ll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well.

Perhaps,

in

this, I’m amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul

Lefebvre

<>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these

engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to

corrosion

of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated

opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the

case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

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[unabated]

I rewired my engine last winter. No electric fuel
pump.
ap

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I’ll take a picture tonight and send it along.

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:32 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump. I

know

I don’t (w58). I have one purchased but not

installed

(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some

engines

(maybe even ours) they’re
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to

the

fact they’re in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other

metals

corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force
will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires more
torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak

the

nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the

inch-lb

range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason

those

tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least

expensive

part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the

injectors or

fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump

it

should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector

lines.

Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines.

Sometimes it

requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I haven’t
looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn’t
working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won’t be able to prime it
properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for a

bit

until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops or

slows

considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it usually
starts. It’ll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps,

in

this, I’m amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these

engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion

of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated

opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the

case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

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Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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[unabated]

I am not sure all of us have an electric pump. I know
I don’t (w58). I have one purchased but not installed
(Walbro).
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

They do corrode if not cared for – in some engines
(maybe even ours) they’re
aluminum or an aluminum alloy that just due to the
fact they’re in a damp
area and in contact with a bazillion other metals
corrode.

Secondly, repeated bleeding with excessive force
will maul the tubing
surface resulting in a leak that requires more
torque to seal, creating more
leakage… until in an effort to stop the leak the
nut cracks.

The torque specs for those tubes are in the inch-lb
range, not foot-lb. The
sealing surface is very narrow. The reason those
tubes are as soft as they
are is so that they (ostensibly the least expensive
part) are the ones to
fail, not the expensive fittings on the injectors or
fuel pump.

Finally, between the lift pump and manual pump it
should be an extraordinary
circumstance to need to bleed the injector lines.
Once the main injector
pump is primed it will fill the lines. Sometimes it
requires using the
compression release (if we have one – I haven’t
looked) so you can spin the
engine fast enough.

If the lift pump on the side of the engine isn’t
working, the engine may
still run ok, but you won’t be able to prime it
properly. I know that when
I change my filters, I let that pump run for a bit
until it stops (you
should hear clicking which eventually stops or slows
considerably). Then I
roll over the engine for a bit and it usually
starts. It’ll run rough for a
few seconds and then all will be well. Perhaps, in
this, I’m amazingly
lucky.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 5:09 AM, Paul Lefebvre
<>
wrote:

Showing my lack of experience with these engines,

why do the fuel injector

lines need replacing. Is it due to corrosion of

the line or because they

will no longer seal because of repeated opening

and tightening to bleed the

lines. If it is the latter, that makes the case

for an external fuel pump

pretty strong.

Paul

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[unabated]

Both the front opening door and the counter top
opening were time consuming winter projects. Because
of the thickness (6 inches) the angles on the door
were critical. I made several prototypes.
The teak was expensive because I used 3/4 inch. It was
nerve racking to cut. Measure a few times, set up the
saw, cut a test piece, think about it for a while,
then cut.
Then installing the plates, I ruptured my right bicep
tendon. Probably no sailing this summer!.. makes for a
nice cottage though.
alan
— Aaron Lynch <> wrote:

I second the wow alan!

How much time did this take you?

I¹ve been eyeballing the whole countertop thinking
of updating with corian
or something… I really like the door in the
bottom though, neither one
of us can reach the bottom. Well, I can get a beer,
but if it falls over I
have to climb in, which takes is far too close to
Œexercise¹ which is the
last thing I want whilst digging for a coldie.

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[unabated]

Thats why I can’t see buying these custom lines for 5
and 600 dollars.
There’s a big over the road truck shop not to far from
here. I might wander down there and ask a few
questions. Better yet, a john deer tractor shop….
they do all kinds of tractors there…. framers are
cheap- like us…..

ap

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Not really. Once the lines are full, there
shouldn’t be a problem unless
they are WAY different in length.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:21 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

Do people think that the lines need to be exact to
maintain some kind of timing with respect to the

pump

and injectors?
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

You’re talking about 1500-3000 lbs pressure.
Surprising, huh? Linus, what
happened after 10 years?

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:08 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean <>

wrote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set

of

fuel

lines by three different boat mechanics.

They

were

available at that time from Norshipco in

Norfolk,

VA. To the tune of $565 that of course

included

shipping. I could not believe that the

lines

had to

be so precise. I got in my car and started

driving

after four stops, three cities and about 200

miles I

walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side

of

the

highway. Outside there were logging

machines

and

old oily trucks. When I walked through the

door

I

saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls.

There

were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and

glass

cases full of injector pumps. The man in

the

white

lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it

came of

a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut

on

the

end of the line and it leaked. I told the

man

in

the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me

the

lines had to be the exact same and I needed

a

new

one. He called to an older man in back that

came

out in his white lab coat and took my line

in

back.

In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me

that

he

had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old

man

what

the others had told me and he said that if

it

didn’t

work that he would give my $2.50 back for

the

repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and

the

price

will be significantly cheaper. By the way

that

Quote:

Quote:

$2.50

Quote:

Quote:

repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

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[unabated]

Do people think that the lines need to be exact to
maintain some kind of timing with respect to the pump
and injectors?
ap
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

You’re talking about 1500-3000 lbs pressure.
Surprising, huh? Linus, what
happened after 10 years?

On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 4:08 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean <>

wrote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set of

fuel

lines by three different boat mechanics. They

were

available at that time from Norshipco in

Norfolk,

VA. To the tune of $565 that of course included
shipping. I could not believe that the lines

had to

be so precise. I got in my car and started

driving

after four stops, three cities and about 200

miles I

walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side of

the

highway. Outside there were logging machines

and

old oily trucks. When I walked through the door

I

saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls.

There

were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and

glass

cases full of injector pumps. The man in the

white

lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it

came of

a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut on

the

end of the line and it leaked. I told the man

in

the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me the
lines had to be the exact same and I needed a

new

one. He called to an older man in back that

came

out in his white lab coat and took my line in

back.

In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me that

he

had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old man

what

the others had told me and he said that if it

didn’t

work that he would give my $2.50 back for the
repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and the

price

will be significantly cheaper. By the way that

$2.50

Quote:

Quote:

repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[unabated]

What kind of pressure are we talking here?

— Linus Sumocean <> wrote:

Quote:

I was once told that I needed a matched set of fuel
lines by three different boat mechanics. They were
available at that time from Norshipco in Norfolk,
VA. To the tune of $565 that of course included
shipping. I could not believe that the lines had to
be so precise. I got in my car and started driving
after four stops, three cities and about 200 miles I
walked into Southeastern Diesel on the side of the
highway. Outside there were logging machines and
old oily trucks. When I walked through the door I
saw fuel lines hanging from the white walls. There
were several engines from a 65 Hatteras and glass
cases full of injector pumps. The man in the white
lab coat said ” that fuel line looks like it came of
a Perkins”. I had cracked the retainer nut on the
end of the line and it leaked. I told the man in
the lab coat that the boat mechanics told me the
lines had to be the exact same and I needed a new
one. He called to an older man in back that came
out in his white lab coat and took my line in back.
In less than a minute he returned with a new
compression fitting on the line and told me that he
had trimmed about 1/4″ off. I told the old man what
the others had told me and he said that if it didn’t
work that he would give my $2.50 back for the
repair.
The moral to this story is look for a heavy
equipment or other than marine source and the price
will be significantly cheaper. By the way that $2.50
repair worked just fine for about ten years.

Linus

<.. snip>

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[unabated]

Why not just stop in a garage that deals with tractor
or truck engines. I am sure you can make these lines
up without resorting to custom lines. or am I
oversimplfing this.
alan

— Bill Emberley <> wrote:

Hi Bob,
I would like to replace all with new.
Bill

Robert Fine <> wrote: Hi Bill,

Do you need a full set? Or do you need one or the
other repaired? I wonder if the part from a W58
would work as they’re very nearly identical?

Bob

On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 12:36 PM, Bill Emberley
<> wrote:
I have searched the globe for Westerbeke 60 fuel
lines with no luck. They are most certainly no
longer available from the manufacturer. Does anyone
have any ideas on sources for custom fuel line
manufacturing resources?
Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks!
-Bill Emberley
Running Tab #86

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

Edit One Productions, Inc.
2310 Clement Avenue
Alameda, CA 94501

Studio 510-814-9519
Fax 510-814-6945
Cell 415-279-1340

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[unabated]

The large ones? What size did you order? Did you
replace the 6 smaller ones?
ap

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I got mine special order from Defenders for an
ungodly sum of 460 each.
Aluminum.

Bob

On Fri, Jun 13, 2008 at 8:51 AM, Silver Heels
<> wrote:

Rich,

The portholes I bought through West Marine (which

are polished/brushed

Quote:

aluminum, not stainless) came
<.. snip>

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[unabated]

Have you checked out New Found Metals?
ap
— wrote:

Quote:

Tor
I went to the Bowmar website and looked at what they
have. Their list prices for opening ports runs
double what you paid. If you have any more
information about the purchase you made, please send
it to me. I think I may replace the two non-opening
ports next winter, but I don’t want to pay $700 each
for the ports.

—
Rich Carter

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[unabated]

chuck,
do you have the shape and size?
I cut 3 inches off the mast a few yrs ago and replaced
it with a mild steel one, figuring I’d change it
sooner or later (I am in fresh water anyhow.). only
cost me 30 bucks and I was in a hurry.
alan

— Chuck Ruble wrote:

I had a heck of a time getting a call back from
Rig-Rite. 401-739-1140
(voice menu only).

I have a mizzen mast step I bought from them that I
ended up not using.
Anybody need it? I’m going to return it otherwise.

Chuck

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 4:39 PM, norris larson

wrote:

Dick Conti has sold Metal Mast to Rig-Rite and

has gone off on his own

with a partner to form–I think its called DC

Products. Does anyone have a

phone number for him?

Or does anyone have a phone number for Rig-Rite

which will get to a person

to talk to? They have my mast step and aresupposed

to be fabricating a new

one, but they do no respond to my emails or return

my phone calls. They’re

not going into bankruptcy are they?

Norris Larson on Easy Reach, #206 ketch.

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[unabated]

We went thru this a year ago. We know Mazda, but no
one can figure out which one.
a

— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Yeah, baby! That’s what I’m talkin’ about! Do you
know which model? I’ll
see if my engine guys can get Mazda parts.

Bob

On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 8:24 AM, James Roberts
<> wrote:

The Westerbeke 58 is a Mazda Industrial engine and

parts are much less

Quote:

costly from Mazda. Jim 424 cutter #219

— wrote:

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

[unabated]

do you have the Kobota part numbers?
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

I’d’ve kept the Westerbeke and just taken my
business to the local guy – I
have a similar story with Universal. I wanted a
spare injector for the
engine. From Universal: $175. From Kubota: $45.
Compression washer from
Universal: $7. From Kubota: $0.75. Just recently
I had to replace an
alternator. From Westerbeke: $400.00. From the
yard: $210. It looks
identical, except it’s black instead of red. Sure,
it’s a Delco, and it’s
not waterproof, but if water gets as high as the
alternator it getting wet
won’t be my biggest problem.

It’s just amazing what you can do when you research
where the marine parts
actually come from. Incidentally, the W58 is a
marinized version of their
25KW generator engine. Parts for that are much less
expensive.

Bob

On Mon, Jun 2, 2008 at 10:51 AM,
<> wrote:

For those who haven’t heard this story, you may

find this amusing. Things

are a little slow here at work today, so I don’t

mind doing some typing.

About 15 years ago I decided to have the starter

on my old W60 rebuilt. I

called the local Westerbeke dealer and asked them

what it would cost. They

told me they rebuild them for time and materials.

You leave the starter

with them for a few weeks and when they get time

they rebuild them. It

typically runs about $700 or so, more or less. I

thought that was nuts, so

I pulled the starter and brought it into a local

shop that rebuilds starters

and alternators. I put the thing up on the

counter and had the owner

inspect it. He shook his head and said “there’s a

lot of rust here, did

this thing come off a boat or something?”

I nodded my head. He then turned it over and

shook his. “Oh, this is

going to be a little bit of work then. Look at

this bendix! This is the

old style. It will eat your flywheel. I’ll have

to replace it. I bet the

windings are shot too. I’ll have to soak it in

penetrating oil to even get

it disassembled. This is going to cost a few

bucks. Are you sure you want

this done?”

After having heard the $700+ figure from Hansen, I

was bracing myself for a

big boat-unit. I asked him what it would cost.

He replied “lets see, with

a new bendix, armature, and brushes, it will run

you about $140, but you’ll

have to leave it here for a couple of days for the

penetrating oil to soak.

This is the main reason that I now own a Yanmar.

—
Rich Carter

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<.. snip>

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[unabated]

U I am trying to find all the pictures.
alan
— Robert Fine <> wrote:

Do you have the ‘U’ layout or the ‘L’ layout?

Bob

On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 11:21 AM, alan P
<> wrote:

You see, marine refrigeration is part art and part
science. Way too many variables. Before you spend
upwards of 2-3k on a system, you probably better

be

sure of what heck you are doing or at least close

to

the right thing or have a darn good back-up plan.
This January, as I was about to put router to

counter

top, I said a little prayer. Either I am a hero,

or I

just made the biggest mistake in my life (no

that’s

not true,I was married once).
So far I am pretty pleased, but I’ll have to wait

for

the warm weather to get here.
I now have access to the top thru a top lid. The
bottom thru a front opening door and access to the
freezer section thru a 2nd top opening lid.
4cu ft refer and a 3 cu freezer. Before anyone

gets

their panties twisted, the front opening door is a
good idea in that I no longer have to take

everything

out to get to the bottom of the cooler. I can now

just

reach in and grab the stuff in the lower part.
Remember my PO had already modified the box, so it
does not looks like any of yours.
It’s only 13 inches wide and 4 feet deep and 48

inches

long along the top. Too deep for my short arms.

alan

— wrote:

Alan
I completely agree with your comments about
Sea-Frost. I’m the first to complain when I get

bad

service. It is only fair to complement when we

get

good service. We should add Sea-Frost to our
recommended vendor list.

The Kollman Marine book is great. I had it out

just

last weekend. I replaced my compressor over the
winter and had to recharge my system.

Even if you don’t plan to service your own
refrigeration, the book is filled with useful
information about how they work and suggestions

for

improvement to existing systems. It’s well

worth

the cost. They sell two books. I have the
do-it-youself book linked below.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/book.html

They have an second volume with information

specific

Quote:

Quote:

to 12v systems.
http://www.kollmann-marine.com/manual.htm

—
Rich Carter

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[Author]

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